RayHarkness
08-02-2011, 02:48 PM
I have made several postings here, and have a continuous problem. I will note that I DID get the warranty fixes done as requested by Norcold. Hate to think how much those cost.
I was having a problem with the 1200 Fridge no cooling when moving. At rest, on either AC or LP, it worked fine. Drive down the road, and after about 15 minutes, the temperature inside the Lower Box would increased quickly. On a day trip, it could go as high as 60 degrees inside. Talked to a Norcold repair person here in Florida, and he had me run the fridge in the hot days on AC and then on LP. Both came out with the same temp, at rest. His idea was there was something causing a ventilation problem inside the main box. I had originally opened the drain tube up, TOO much, and that contributed to moving down the road-pulling the cold out of the fridge box. However, this situation, increasing temps, had to be related to air or vacuum. I checked deeper.
1. I found, that the aluminum cooling fins were installed thru the back of the fridge box, were supposed to have a seal around them to keep the fins sealed inside the box. What I found, was that on the right side (facing into the fridge) the SEAL was not in place on the far most vertical surface, and there was also a gap along the lower edge of the fins, all the way across. The seal was there, along bottom, but you could stick a wire right thru and into a gap. The right side (toward back of coach) was WIDE OPEN, a sizable gap.
1-Solution: I obtained some quality pipe putty from local hardware store, I was able to work this into that gap along the vertical edge, and completely seal that up. I also used the end of a somewhat narrow screwdriver, and went across the bottom of the fins, working that putty into the lower horizontal seal. I was careful NOT to get any pieces down into that water collection tray under, which could plug up that drain line to the outside. This worked quite well, and I hope this "seal" works. I could have used like a caulk, but don't want to "glue" this unit in, in case we have to remove it someday. I think this plumber putty will stay flexible, and if well anchored and worked into the cracks, will stay in place. Will see.
2- I found, some apparent movement between gaskets AND the long plastic flap (about 3" side) that swings around, between the two fridge doors. When I checked, I found some mold, and the gaskets were wet. This would indicate to me, that there was air drawing thru, and probably that swinging flap, does not "push" back hard enough to the gaskets to seal them tightly. This situation would have added to the damage seals around the cooling fins along the back top of the fridge.
There are springs, that push this FLAP around to meet the doors. It guides around in a track at the top and bottom of the fridge box. This seal needs to be somewhat tighter, and eliminate the dampness. It was noted that I think this flap is also a heater....not sure of this. However, even after repairing the seals around the fins, I found moisture in the gaskets that hit that center flap.
2-Solution: I found a suggestion in other postings. I do not want to replace this flap, or the springs that swing it around and in place. There is very little adjustment in the doors of the fridge or this flap. Some other posting suggested getting some Silicone grease. I greased the gaskets on both the right and left door, that strike this center flap. This is NOT creating a very tight seal on that center, and cutting down on contamination or air pulling through.
I have tested things so far, ran the coach about 1/2 to 3/4 hour in high heat here in Florida. The fridge did NOT climb right up thru the 40's as it has done before, but got to the high 39, and seems to hold on setting 6. I did not have the silicone seal on the gaskets when I tested the coach by running it with the sealant around the fins, but have reason to believe this will even improve. Only problem is, you can get some sticky silicone grease on your hand if you touch those gaskets..but that is a minor problem...
I am hoping that this will resolve the entire problem. I would be interested if any others have similar problems, or how they corrected theirs. I believe that the seals not in place or proper around the cooling fins is the major part of the problem.
My thanks to RayChez for listening to me many times about this problem. I think I have it resolved.....be interested in other thoughts that some might have. I did NOT realize that there is that much vacuum up the back of the fridge, thru the stack-to actually suck the cold air out. And if the center seals were not real tight, this would create a flow thru condition.
Thoughts? R
I was having a problem with the 1200 Fridge no cooling when moving. At rest, on either AC or LP, it worked fine. Drive down the road, and after about 15 minutes, the temperature inside the Lower Box would increased quickly. On a day trip, it could go as high as 60 degrees inside. Talked to a Norcold repair person here in Florida, and he had me run the fridge in the hot days on AC and then on LP. Both came out with the same temp, at rest. His idea was there was something causing a ventilation problem inside the main box. I had originally opened the drain tube up, TOO much, and that contributed to moving down the road-pulling the cold out of the fridge box. However, this situation, increasing temps, had to be related to air or vacuum. I checked deeper.
1. I found, that the aluminum cooling fins were installed thru the back of the fridge box, were supposed to have a seal around them to keep the fins sealed inside the box. What I found, was that on the right side (facing into the fridge) the SEAL was not in place on the far most vertical surface, and there was also a gap along the lower edge of the fins, all the way across. The seal was there, along bottom, but you could stick a wire right thru and into a gap. The right side (toward back of coach) was WIDE OPEN, a sizable gap.
1-Solution: I obtained some quality pipe putty from local hardware store, I was able to work this into that gap along the vertical edge, and completely seal that up. I also used the end of a somewhat narrow screwdriver, and went across the bottom of the fins, working that putty into the lower horizontal seal. I was careful NOT to get any pieces down into that water collection tray under, which could plug up that drain line to the outside. This worked quite well, and I hope this "seal" works. I could have used like a caulk, but don't want to "glue" this unit in, in case we have to remove it someday. I think this plumber putty will stay flexible, and if well anchored and worked into the cracks, will stay in place. Will see.
2- I found, some apparent movement between gaskets AND the long plastic flap (about 3" side) that swings around, between the two fridge doors. When I checked, I found some mold, and the gaskets were wet. This would indicate to me, that there was air drawing thru, and probably that swinging flap, does not "push" back hard enough to the gaskets to seal them tightly. This situation would have added to the damage seals around the cooling fins along the back top of the fridge.
There are springs, that push this FLAP around to meet the doors. It guides around in a track at the top and bottom of the fridge box. This seal needs to be somewhat tighter, and eliminate the dampness. It was noted that I think this flap is also a heater....not sure of this. However, even after repairing the seals around the fins, I found moisture in the gaskets that hit that center flap.
2-Solution: I found a suggestion in other postings. I do not want to replace this flap, or the springs that swing it around and in place. There is very little adjustment in the doors of the fridge or this flap. Some other posting suggested getting some Silicone grease. I greased the gaskets on both the right and left door, that strike this center flap. This is NOT creating a very tight seal on that center, and cutting down on contamination or air pulling through.
I have tested things so far, ran the coach about 1/2 to 3/4 hour in high heat here in Florida. The fridge did NOT climb right up thru the 40's as it has done before, but got to the high 39, and seems to hold on setting 6. I did not have the silicone seal on the gaskets when I tested the coach by running it with the sealant around the fins, but have reason to believe this will even improve. Only problem is, you can get some sticky silicone grease on your hand if you touch those gaskets..but that is a minor problem...
I am hoping that this will resolve the entire problem. I would be interested if any others have similar problems, or how they corrected theirs. I believe that the seals not in place or proper around the cooling fins is the major part of the problem.
My thanks to RayChez for listening to me many times about this problem. I think I have it resolved.....be interested in other thoughts that some might have. I did NOT realize that there is that much vacuum up the back of the fridge, thru the stack-to actually suck the cold air out. And if the center seals were not real tight, this would create a flow thru condition.
Thoughts? R