I realize that this is an old thread but issues with my GE 23 cu ft residential refrigerator have me looking into my alternatives regarding servicing my GE residential refrigerator. Anyone with any experience in this regard -- PLEASE CHIME IN !!
My unit is regulating the temperature in the refrigerator section as it should, and keeps it near the 37 degree setting even when it is very hot outside. BUT, my freezer section is not regulating at my 0 degree set point and sometimes gets up to 17 or even 19 degrees. This is not good for long term food storage (or short term either for that matter -- but the venison in there is not going to be easily replaced...)
From what I read on-line this issue is most likely the 'control board' mounted under a metal cover on the right side of the rear of the unit. Those of you with the Tour Master coaches know that there is an outside access door, but it only exposes the lowest 9 inches or so of the rear of the GE unit...enough to turnoff/disconnect the water supply, unplug the unit, etc. but not access this control board cover. I can see the hex head screws along the lower edge and maybe remove 3 or 4 of them but the manual says 9 are used on the cover. And of course I need to get the connectors unplugged and the board swapped. There is a very good video on the net showing how to do this board replacement, but it presumes you have unrestricted access to the rear of the unit.
I don't know for sure if the controller is the root cause, but for $75 in parts costs it is worth a try (I do not charge myself for my labor
) From my reading on this controller board topic the most common failure is the 13+ volts supply won't hold up under full current load and random symptoms can ensue. Last year I changed out the original inverter in my coach for a pure sine unit so maybe the power to the fridge when on inverter needs to be of a certain quality to keep these controller boards happy... So, if I can extend the life of this refrigerator by another 5 to 10 years it would be well worth the effort and cost of this repair.
At this point some may question why I am interested in resurrecting a nearly 10 year old appliance that is troublesome rather than replacement, but consider this set of constraints: I am living full time in this rig and can't take the time and effort to get it 100+ miles to the qualified service center that can take out my windshield and remove/replace the 32x32x70 and 325 pounds that this box shaped appliance represents. (I did remove the washing machine and replace it with a more capable one when the coach was first acquired -- that was challenge enough. At least that went through the front door with the aid of an engine hoist...) I have been quoted 'budgetary' costs for the refrigerator removal and replacement at about $1000 labor and up to $1800 for the appliance itself. Add that to some days off work and it prompts my looking at alternatives.
The refrigerator in the Tour Master is cabinet mounted about 12 inches higher than the floor -- so moving it out even partially is going to require some support. I have found that the plastic milk crates are the right size and strength to use 3 across with some particle board on top for smoothly supporting the wheels on the bottom front of the appliance. As mentioned by Don earlier in this thread, there are metal brackets at the top of the refrigerator that secure it to the cabinetry using some of the door hinge mounting screws. It appears that you have to take the top wood trim piece off to access these brackets. The lower rear of the refrigerator is also bolted/screwed down to the floor of the cabinet space -- but I believe that I can access those from the outside service door.
My plan is as follows: Once I get the new control board that I have ordered, I will disconnect all the brackets, water lines, AC power and move the refrigerator just a foot or so forward out of the cabinet. I believe that this will give me access enough to remove the metal board cover panel and swap out the controller. I am sure that I will need a helper as I am in my 70's and not willing to horse this thing around by myself...and I want to get it back exactly where it was after the board swap so the brackets will bolt back up. I will try to take documentation quality pictures and post if I am successful. Actually I will post again even if I am not successful as that might be helpful to someone in the future as well...
Chuck