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Old 10-27-2010, 03:28 AM   #1
billy
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Default I FEEL LIKE I GOT A ELEPHANT OFF MY BACK

i just sold my 2008 6400 ....phew ..praise the lord.! installed the rear shocks , no help .installed heavier rear springs,next size up , no help ,installed the rear air suspension ,did make the ride a little more "comfortable" , but the motorhome just is not right. it is not relaxing to drive , i drove over 20,000 miles ,but it was not fun! the 6400 is actually dangerous . i feel it is too much coach for the chassis . the driver and passenger are somewhat ok ,but the passengers in the back feel like they are in a airplane that is going down . i have been watching this forum for over 2 years,finally decided to post !did not hve any mechanical issues,but had a ton of other problems, cracks in the body {open bedroom slide above rear wheel ,and left side above driver slide open }water leaks in compartments, electrical , and so on. PLEASE ANYONE THINKING ABOUT BUYING A 6400 ....PLEASE THINK TWICE, GOOD LUCK
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:24 AM   #2
Texas TC
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I am sorry you did not have a good experience and wish you had joined in on the forum discussions while you were going through your issues. Believe it or not, I know how you feel. I had a Polaris RZR ATV for a year and, although there was an entire forum full of people who loved them, I was not one of them. I just felt the quality was not there for the price I paid for it. When I sold it, I posted a parting message similar to yours only it was called "the second happiest day of my ATV life".

I still like my 6331 especially with the air suspension. It is a pleasure to drive and I routinely put in 700-800 mile days when on the road. I have over 40000 miles on mine now. I never drove a 6400 but have had reservations about them due to the rear overhang and the weight of the coach. Like the RZR forum, many on this site really like their 6400 but I am just a bit concerned about the 4200 chassis application with that length and weight of coach.

I wish you much luck in your future endeavors. I hope you continue to RV and find something you really enjoy.



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Old 01-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #3
pete beale
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BEST THING I EVER DID ..GETTING RID OF GS RV. lost about $45,000 in 3 years and 4000 miles.... now over the moon with my merc sprinter based motorhome.. MADE IN ENGLAND. never thought I would do that. But UK ones improved when yours got worse. SORRY
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:14 PM   #4
schmittm
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Sorry to hear about your issues with 6400. I have heared this from others and can see why you feel it is too much coach for the chasis. Before I bought my 6372 I drove a Senca with the Chevy 5500 diesel platform. It was 34ft and it scared the **** out of me, it shook, rattled and wandered around and with the wind blowing you had to really pay attention. It was too much for that chasis. Immediately after driving the Seneca I drove a Supernova, before I left the parking lot I could tell the difference.
I have had our 37ft Supernova for 18 months and have put over 10,000 miles on it. We just did a 9 day trip to Big White in Kelona BC skiing. Traveled 750 miles and even with using the generator a lot got 9.1 mpg. It drives great and straight as an arrow. I only added shocks to the rear and don't have all the bouncing you said you had.
These Supernovas aren't perfect and I have upgraded a lot, but i would have on any other coach or i would have paid more for a different rig. For the money I do not think there is a better class C Motorhome or better looking one out there that can do it all, especially tow my 6000lb ski boat.
I have learned that with any Motorhome or trailer things are going to break and you have to maintain it all the time they fall apart. And if you want to save some money you need to be willing to do some of the work yourself, it's not hard.
Here are the things I have done so far:
Sound proof engine compartment and inside cab including door panels.
Sound proof most of under carriage floor where i could get to, including all gaps between cab and house.
Istall rear shocks.
Installed PIAA driving/fog lamps and air horn.
Tininted all windows.
Installed TS Diesel programmer.
New 20in Samsung 1080p flat screens and a new LG surround system and sub.
Installed surround and sub under rear bed for back TV.
Reinforced dinette seats with 3/8 plywood.
Put in new 5" memory foam mattress in hide-a-bed and cut 3/8 plywood and bolted to frame to make flat platform. Yes it still folds up.
Installed IPAD MOUNT in dash for GPS, music and movies for passenger.
Had door panel inserts replaced with matching leather to seats.
Stripped all cocking sealer from roof edges and re-sealed with black weather proof cocking, checked entire roof and cab interface. Haven't had a leak yet.
Rebuilt both back jacks because of poor design and boots leaking water into electric motors. Replaced all boots on jack and slides and used the new
clamps Gulfstream has. Put Lucas oil red grease on motors before installing boots and then put a layer of grease on lip of boot and motor to make a barrier for any moisture. If you use your coach in the rain or especially drive in the snow like we do, you better inspect your jacks boots and make sure no water gets in, because the motor is at the bottom of the boot were the water will sit and rust it. You will go to bring you jack up and the motors will lock up and eventually break the pin inside the screw jack. They are a simple design and it is easy to tear them down and replace motor. Don't pay someone big dollars to do it for you.
Installed air hose extentions to wheels to make checking and adding air easy.
Installed propane extenders to main tank. Allows you to either hook a 12ft hose to it to hook a BBQ or fire pit, or allows you to hook up 5th hose to another tank that will feed the system. I installed a 30lb tank in the comaprtment to right of propane and I can run the hose to the main line now for extra propane and don't have to worry about running out.
Had fan clutch replaced because fan would not shut off after 5 miles or it ran to often, have had no more problems with it.
Added small shelves in corners by rear bed, some of the newer supernovas had these, you can order from Gulfstream and do your self. Also added one up by couch that is on the passengers side in the corner by cab wall.
Added bike carrier to rear ladder, holds tow bikes.
Added rock protecter skirt to rear, mounted to bottom of rear bumper. Also added big mud flaps to rear wheel wells that are only 4in off ground.
Put in two new Optima batteries. The biggest Blue deep cell ones, they last way longer then one that were in there, and in the Winter with the heater running you use a lot of battery.
Modified hole were power cord comes out of electrical bay. The factory one leaked and always got water in storage bay so got 4in black PVC parts and screwed it to bottom of box and the undercoated around it. Now it has a screw in sewer style cap and the compartment is now water proof.
If anyone has questions on any of these items let me know. Bottom line is this is a great RV for a family of five and and with a little work their even better, going skiing again this weekend in the MOHO! These things drive great in the snow, they are so heavy you do not slide around. Yes i have chains, but I hope to never use them. Have done 7 trips in the snow so far.
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:06 PM   #5
DGator
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You have been busy schmittm, there are two items on your list I would like to have more info on. The first is your mileage, I have never been close to 9.1 mpg, more like 6-7. What do you attribute your mpg to? The second is the sound insulation of the cab, what material did you use and what kind of difference did it make?
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:20 PM   #6
schmittm
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The TS Diesel programmer makes a difference in mileage and Power. With out the programmer, with the cruise control, on the engine speeds up and slows down a lot to try and maintain the certain speed. When you turn the programmer on you can feel the surge in the engine and the constant on/off gas goes away and the engine has that extra power to maintain speed. The programmer does not effect the ECM, so international will not know you are using it. I just take it off before I take it in for service and they have never said anything. Check out TS Diesel Website for more information.
I also started running Monster diesel additive, instead of the one that is in a white jug (most common one out there in stores), and since then it has run smoother and seems to get better milage. This also helps keep the injectors lubed up so there is less chance of a failure.
On my trip is was all 60mph road so i never went faster then 65, mostly had cruise set at 63. I seem to get 8-9+ when I keep it under 65. Most of the time, except when pulling boat, I get at around 8mpg. Not sure why this much better, maybe the really cold air helped make a difference.
As far as sound proofing, here is the post with a link to pictures that I have put up before.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmittm/

I purchased sound deading from fatmat.com, total cost is under $400.00.
Buy the Fatmat urethane Hoodliner kit
Buy the Rattle Trap bulk pack of 100sq ft

This will give you enough to put the Fatmat down first under the whole hood then put the cut and piece the hood liner on top of it. This will take you some time and sitting on your radiator putting the pieces on.

Then I took door panels off and put one layer on doors. To take panels off push the little circle inside the clip in and then with a small flat blade you can pop clip out. Take screws holding pocket off and then the two screws in the top handle by window. Pull up on panel and it will come right off. Very easy.

When panels were off I took them down to upholstry shop and had them put matching leather in the inserts instead of the blue fabric so they will match the darker color of my seats. Still need to add this picture.

Then I took the trim off, seats out and pulled the rubber floor back as far as possible and put on two layer of the Fatmat. I used left over hood liner foam and did the whole fire wall were I could reach.

Then get a can of expandable foam and look between where the cab meets the coach, by the batteries and from underneath on the passenger side. You will see a bad seal job and gaps that let sound or a possible mouse in. Stuff your arm in and pump the crack full of foam.

Then I put sound deading material in the battery compartment and under the floor of the motor home. Get your self a creeper to lay on and mover around. I also used some of the left over hood liner and put that between the transmission and the floor from underneath.

I then put the sound deading material on the under side of the floor where it was easy to get to, for example by propane tank almost from one side to the other. This will help keep the noise from the drive line and the sound that bounces off the road. Every little bit helps.

If it does not want to stick well or after a short trip check to make sure it is not falling off. If it is, get a heat gun and go over it with heat gun and roller again and it will stick for sure.

If you want to add wood dash kit you can call Forest River Automotive directly and for $240.00 get the three piece kit.
(574) 522-7472 and ask for John.
57884 County Rd 3
Elk Hart, IN 46517

Any questions let me know.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:36 AM   #7
DGator
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Thanks for all the details. Were you satified with all your efforts in the sound reduction?
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:19 AM   #8
Georunner
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I have a question about the shocks. Since you are obviously mechanically competent, could you have installed the shock kit yourself? Here in Colorado Springs, the International dealer wants $800 to install the kit, and I am thinking I might be able to do it myself.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:47 AM   #9
schmittm
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Yes completly satisfied with sound proofing. HUGE difference, wife is way happier and she can tell the difference. If you look there is no sound proofing in the engine compartment at all. Plus trying to sound proof underside of house has reduced some of the road noise you get in the front area and back towards rear wheels. It is not hard to do, just takes some time. Make sure if you do underside that you check it or use a Heat gun to make sure it sticks and doesn't come off later.
As far as shocks go I do not think I could have done it for two reasons. You have to know where to mount to frame and you have to drill hole in frame. The international dealer in Yakima WA did it just over $500. They did not have to take the wheels off to do it. You might suggest to your dealer that they call Dan at Cascadia International 5094525515 and talk to him. I had to have him call a dealer in CA to figure it out and get the right parts. Shocks do help ride and get rid of side swaying and reduce rocking going over bumps and driveways. Handles better.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:10 PM   #10
Georunner
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Thanks for the info and the pictures. I bought soundproofing materials, now I think I may be able to get started. Thanks also for the insight on the shock installation, I'll try and get the dealer hear to reconsider their quote and go from there.
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