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Old 09-17-2007, 03:37 PM   #1
tippleunduly
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Default 5272 BT Cruiser electrical outlets

We liked the updated 5290 Euro Touring Cruiser we just saw at Hershey. But, when we looked more closely, we discovered there was 1 electrical outlet in the bathroom and a 2nd hard-to-reach near the floor in the dinette. There were none in the bedroom or in the galley where you'd want to plug in a toaster or a mixer. I think that's a serious design flaw.

Now we're leaning toward the shorter 5272 BT Cruiser, but suspect it won't have enough outlets either. Can someone with a 5272 tell me how many outlets there are and where they're located?
Thanks
Bill
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:55 PM   #2
Maggie
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Bill,
We have a 2003, 27ft BT. We have 2 outlets in the Bedroom area. One
on the passenger side near the floor & one over the bed. One above the counter in the bathroom. One over the kitchen sink and one over the dinete. We also put one in on the slide out low near the floor. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:55 PM   #3
Maggie
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Bill,
We have a 2003, 27ft BT. We have 2 outlets in the Bedroom area. One
on the passenger side near the floor & one over the bed. One above the counter in the bathroom. One over the kitchen sink and one over the dinete. We also put one in on the slide out low near the floor. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:56 PM   #4
Maggie
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Bill,
We have a 2003, 27ft BT. We have 2 outlets in the Bedroom area. One
on the passenger side near the floor & one over the bed. One above the counter in the bathroom. One over the kitchen sink and one over the dinete. We also put one in on the slide out low near the floor. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:17 AM   #5
geramas
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I've read this forum on-off for while. man, you are a WEENIEE!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:59 PM   #6
sueandjerry
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We have the 2008 5272. We feel it is short of outlets as well, but I will tell you what we have. One above the couch in the slideout, one above the kitchen counter, one in the bathroom and one on the narrow side of the bedroom wall (that if you wanted to use, you would trip over anything except maybe a camera battery charger! There is also one outside in the bin with the central vac in it.

We have spent about 100 hours so far fixing and customizing our BT. Overall we are happy with it, but thought the general finish work was horrible. Rough edges, loose screws, handles, doors that didn't stay shut. I don't think there was a single screw on a latch outside that was tight, and every handle inside had to be tightened as well.

Ours also came with a non-working dvd/cd combo player, and only day shades, no day/night as it should be....even in the bedroom. All things to check for if you buy.

With all that said, it is an absolute dream to drive compared with the Class A 31 footer we had before. Especially if it is windy at all. And, now that it is up to snuff so to speak, we are liking it alot. Good luck!!
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:36 PM   #7
tippleunduly
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Thanks, Maggie, Sue and Jerry for your helpful responses. Sounds like the 5272 could use more outlets and better quality control, too. It seems most mfrs. expect new owners to take care a lot of fit and finish details themselves. Can you imagine owning one of these things if you had no handyman skills?
Bill
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Old 12-07-2007, 09:11 PM   #8
happytrails
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Default 5272 BT Cruiser Electrical Outlets

I bought my 27ft Cruiser in July and have the same problem with the number of electrical outlets. Love the way it drives, but sure is short of storage space. (I downsized from a 38 foot Class A"). Put 3500 miles on this last summer and really like the motor home. My Theater Sound/DVD player also didn't work! It is in the shop now getting the things fixed that I found wrong this summer. Mine had the "Optima Leather Power Lounger Sofa" and it is a pile of crap. Am going to take the lounger out and installing 2 Recliners. Hard to find a dealer that does warranty work on Gulf Stream.

Darv
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:05 PM   #9
ezdriver
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Default BT Cruiser Electrical Outlets

Hello,
I am a new owner of a 2005 27' BT Cruiser and I also need more electric outlets. After tripping over an extension cord, then cleaning up the shattered light bulb, I decided I need an outlet in front by the sofa. I had been running an extension cord from the outlet in the right hand cabinet next to the tv, but that is both awkward and dangerous. So I was trying to figure out how to add an outlet on the left side of the overhead entertainment console.
On both sides of the tv there are cabinets with doors, and between the cabinets and the walls there are padded panels about 10" wide that cover a wedge shaped unusable area. I was thinking about installing an outlet in this panel. But how to access this area, and how and where to draw the power from.
I thought I might open the cabinet door then try to pry off the interior of the left side to gain access to the unusable wedge shaped area. Then pry off the padded panel from the inside so as to not damage it, then neatly cut a hole in the panel and fit in the outlet. I'd run a wire over to the outlet by the tv for power.

Then I read the post from Maggie where she said they added an outlet near the floor - this sounds even better.
Maggie, if you read this, could you please describe in as much detail as possible how you accomplished this? Where did you tap on to draw the power from? How did you run the wire? Where and how did you cut the hole to place the outlet?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-13-2008, 06:12 PM   #10
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I,m not to good with technical terms but hope you can understand. We have an outlet mounted on the wall just above the counter in the bathroom. We used this outlet to obtain power for our tap on. The new line was attached to this outlet and snaked through the wll where a hole for a new outlet had been cut about 8" above the floor on the wall next to the slide out. On our unit this wall is only abot 6-8: thick so it wasn't to hard to get the line through. There is a small channel that the line could be run through. You could also drill a hole through the stud (1x2) next to where the outlet was and run the line through it. Hope it helps.
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:11 PM   #11
ezdriver
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Going through the wall, and tap into the bathroom outlet - good idea. I had not thought of that.
Thank you.

Has anyone else reading this added electric outlets, and how?
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:34 PM   #12
rdlamb
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This is not as easy a question as it seems.

Consider that the coaches your are referring to have a 30 amp service. That makes things easier as everything (all 110 electrical) are usually ran by one power line in, and by one breaker on the generator.

Tapping into an existing line is easy. However, PRIOR to that move, you really should perform a test to see what the amp draw is on that line.

Example, if GS follows its usual convention, your outlet receives power through a 14 ga romex not intended to supply more than 15 amps. In fact, it is very dangerous to draw over 15 amps off a 14 gage line.

Placing a meter, such as the Kill-A-Watt or similar on that outlet and recording the amp draw when various 110 appliances are turned on, will let you know if the line you are about to tap is already at max amp draw or close to it.

If you tap into a line from the bathroom and plug something into the new outlet while someone in the bathroom plugs in an amp-eater such as a hair dryer, you will quickly melt the insulation off the line and start a smoldering fire behind your walls.

So, know what the amp draw is on the line before you tap into it.

That said, if your electrical box is somewhat accessible it is far better to run a new line off the box, complete with a new breaker, than to tap into an existing line.

Not JMHO, but my concern for your safety.
Safe travels
Rick



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Old 01-15-2008, 06:27 PM   #13
Maggie
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Thanks for the technical advice. I checked with my husband who teachs
Electric/Electronics and yes he did do all the checks befor the addition.
Since no two units are wired/plumbed alike anyone making changes of
any kind should check their own unit first before proceeding.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:37 AM   #14
ezdriver
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Thanks for the warnings. I'll consider those when/if I try to add on.
My concern about adding a new line from the box is that I'd drill down through the floor, run the new line underneath, then have to drill up through the floor near the location of the new outlet. Then have to seal the holes.
In drilling through the floor I'm concerned about drilling into something - a frame member, a tank, a wire, a pipe - who knows?
So what's the trick to drilling in a safe location - finding an area that is clear both inside and below?
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