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Old 08-12-2018, 10:38 AM   #21
Restorium
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Sudsy,
You are definitely the judge of how you feel about my posts. So I will apologize for making you feel bullied. Didn't intend on that. Sorry.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:41 PM   #22
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So, rig is a Ford chassis, not a Chevy. I haven't pulled a coil pack off yet but AFAIK there isn't a separate wire on these? On the same topic, it is eating oil as well so I'm thinking PCV valve(s) need replacing too. (Possibly the hoses as well.) Annoyingly none of the local parts shops had them of the shelf, or worse could find a PN?!

Had my first race weekend in the rig, absolutely love it. Only issue I ran into was the house battery being shot. Barely an hour with just the fridge on propane and the propane monitor and... reading as dead on the panel. So, ran the generator all weekend. (1/4 tank of gas). Checked tonight... batt was WAY low on water. Topped it off, guessing it's capacity is compromised anyways. Fortunately the next few outings I'll have access to shore power so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:39 PM   #23
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Found one impending water leak in the shower, the elbow underneath where the pex makes the turn to go up to the shower controls has dripped. Dunno why they put elbows in, plenty of room for pex to just make the bend on it's own...

Also need to reengineer the ramp door, it was rebuilt and is not staying together.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:32 PM   #24
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I used some Flex Seal in a pint can. Put two rubber gloves on same hand (light weight one's) and just reached in and rubbed the elbow down as best I could. Waited for a couple days and tried. This was on the pressure fill line for my fresh water tank from the selector. I could hardly see it way up in top of compartment.



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Old 08-20-2018, 01:28 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon View Post
After hunting for a couple years, I just drove home a 2007 Endura 6318. Prior owners kept it in beautiful shape, but I do have a few things I need to figure out:

1) Shudder/vibration at 1500 to 2500 RPM, rate changes with RPM, intensity increases with throttle. Get it to kick down and it pulls cleanly. I'm thinking misfire but will take it to a shop for a proper diag.

2) Switch above the mirror controls, thought heated mirrors but the owner doesn't recall it HAVING heated mirrors. When he replaced the driver side mirror he didn't recall there being any wires.

3) The porch light, and light in the step well, what turns them on? There is a 'porch step light' labeled switch on the entry way control strip but doesn't seem to do anything.

4) Where is the fuse for the upper, switched acc outlet on the dash, above the cigarette lighter?
1) CODEs will tell, probably needs a coil or two replaced; 2) It is heated mirrors on most, a seldom used but valuable feature when you need it; 3) if by chance, u still have old bulbs vs LEDs, very likely burned out; if door magnet operated step, then might be the Kwikee step position switch problem. Careful, step can crush/ hit/ injure; 4) Van battery CAN be charged from shoreline/ GEN by using the ESS Switch; 5) Coach battery will charge from van when engine is running (most/ all modern?) (thru IGN Switch activated Relay/ solenoid)
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:35 AM   #26
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re: COPS (Coil On Plug), I understand 12v fed to each coil, and computer controls the ground to control firing.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:59 AM   #27
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Now here's something I learned a while back on my Coil On Plug 3.6 engine. One of the weak points of the Coil On Plug is the boots. Always get some heavy duty boots when working on these. Sometimes all you need are these boots.
I found this instructional video on it to help explain it;
https://www.autozone.com/video/video...earchType=byId
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:33 AM   #28
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New coil and plug on #4 and the rig is super cruising smoothly and effortlessly again. Meanwhile the house batt dumped it's cookies, melted the strap holding it down and got melty plastic on the side of my rig... little clean up and a new battery later... d-oh.

Roof has spots where the white has worn away to reveal the black rubber underneath. No soft spots on the roof, no leaks I'm aware of, I'm being told by some that the roof just needs to be coated, others say it's done, it needs a new membrane laid down. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:42 AM   #29
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Definitely had a feeling it was just #4 with the code like that.

If the membrane has no rips then you just coat it. Worked for me. One tip on coating; be careful near the edges because you can see any sags or runs. My coating worked great but there are a few ugly spots on the edges if you look closely.
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