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Old 04-19-2018, 07:49 PM   #1
Serge
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Default Ameri-Lite 189DD, 198BH or 199DD

hello Gulf Stream trailer owners

I am looking for Ameri-Lite trailer owners model of 189DD, 198BH or 199DD as I own myself.

I would like to share experiences with your model or the changes you have made to it.

I have tried to contact owners around Montreal in Canada where we live, without success.

Let me know

Serge
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:34 PM   #2
atreis
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198BH here. Here are the changes I made:

Easy convenience items:

- Electric tongue jack.
- Bedlift kit on the storage area under the queen bed.
- Replaced the on-demand water pump with a Flojet variable speed (very quiet) pump.

Irritating items, but easy:

- Rebuilt the power cord holder after the original collapsed on me. (The only structural thing that actually failed in the trailer.)
- Rebuilt the air conditioner mount after discovering the condensation drain was draining into the wall instead of outside.

Moderately difficult, but not bad (The roof is NOT one you can walk on):

- Installed 340 watts of solar, Midnite Solar charge controller, and two 250 AH AGM batteries under the rear dinette seat. (A sort made for military use, meant to be in sealed compartments.)
- Replaced the original fridge with a 12 volt compressor fridge. I love this thing. Super efficient, and great temperature control.
- Added a 12 volt compressor freezer (mounted on top of the counter). Love this too.
- Added a 1000 watt PSW inverter. It doesn't get much use though. Most things run off 12V.
- Added bumper supports between the frame and the rear bumper.
- Added a bike rack to the rear bumper (thus the extra support).
- Installed an under-frame spare tire carrier.

Hard items:

- Replaced the 3500 Lb axle with a 5500 lb axle with 6 lug wheels and LR D tires. (The batteries and solar panels are heavy. The trailer's axle weight (measured at a Cat Scale) is about 3600 lbs, so was too close for comfort. A 4500 lb axle would have been fine, but the 5500 was a perfect fit on the frame.)
- Enlarged the wheel well openings some to accommodate the larger tires. Only the outer wall opening - the actual wheel well was already plenty big. (This was difficult. It was hard to get them looking as if it came out of the factory this way, but I did, except that the openings are square now instead of rounded. I tried to round them, but couldn't get the curve right with the tools I have, so just squared it off. Used black automotive trim and silicone adhesive to give the edge a nice finish.)

All of this was completed three years ago (by me - fun doing an axle alone). I've put perhaps 15K miles on the trailer since doing it, and all of it is working just like I had hoped. It's now a great small trailer for dispersed and dry camping. Aside from the power cord holder and AC mount I've had no issues at all with the original construction.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:28 AM   #3
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Wow, you have made several nice changes!!

If you don't mind, I'm going to get inspired by some of your ideas.
I plan to add solar panels, bike rack, electric tongue jack and install the under-frame spare tire carrier.

It is true that the power cord holder is not the best. Hopefully my trailer is new, it should work for few years, but I will keep in mind your move.

If you have a chance to post some pictures, that will be interested!

Thanks again for sharing those ideas.
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:19 PM   #4
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I don't have pictures, but this should help:

Electric Tongue Jack: Very easy. Just follow the directions. (You'll need some way to support the tongue of the trailer during the install. I just hooked it up to the car.)

Under frame tire carrier: I used the one linked below. Just followed the directions for install. The only part of the frame that had a wide enough gap to fit a tire in was just forward of the axle. It's very important to line up the two sides to the same point on the frame so that it doesn't bind when being pulled out/pushed in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPRBBRO
There are a bunch of different styles for different types of frames. The one linked here is the one I got.

Others have mounted the spare under the tongue by making their own ... That would cost less. I also thought about mounting it to the underside of the bumper, but was worried it would hit when going over curbs and decided I didn't want the weight aft of the axle anyway.

Power cord holder: I just used the original parts plus some small pieces of scrap wood. The original was stapled together and then stapled to the underside of the bunk support. The staples didn't hold. I put it back together using screws and remounted it using screws.

Bumper: I installed these:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071JM3GJD
I wasn't sure that would be sufficient so also had angle iron welded to the frame and bumper (run along the bottom of the frame to the bottom of the bumper). The bike rack mounts at four points along the bumper (two for each half) and I put one of those right next to where the frame meets the bumper so that it would be very close to the reinforcement. I used this sort of bike rack, which isn't perfect but does the job:
https://www.discountramps.com/bicycl...-bikes/p/BC4BM
I use lots of bungees to secure the bikes. They do rub against the bike rack though ... This could be better.

If you do a bike rack on the bumper, for safety you need to do two additional things: Know the fully-loaded weight of your trailer. You can get this at a CAT Scale. (To get the full trailer weight, you have to unhitch it while the measurement is taken so all of the trailer weight is on the scale.) You also need to know the tongue weight. You can get this using a tongue scale:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007REJTGI
12-14% of the total trailer weight should be on the tongue. By adding bikes to the rear, you're removing weight from the tongue. If the tongue weight is too low the trailer can become very unstable at high speed and cause an accident.

For me, I ended up being okay on tongue weight. My solar panels and spare tire carrier are mounted forward of the axle and that offset the bike weight nicely. (In fact, I'm better off with the bikes than without. My tongue is too heavy without them.)

Solar panels: How you do this depends on what you want. e.g. wattage, type of panels, etc ... Lots of variation here. (There are books on this subject that go into wire sizes, run lengths, types of charge controllers, etc ...) My setup is pretty extreme and designed for extended stays in remote locations without using a generator. In summer, it'll run everything indefinitely. It will last through three consecutive rainy days. (The batteries are dead after the third one though. I need sun at least every fourth day.) I ran the wires down through the AC roof vent, then through the cabinets over the dinette, over to the wall between the dinette booth and bunks, and down inside the wall, to the dinette booth. I mounted the charge controller in the wall. The batteries just sit under the dinette booth and are kept from sliding around by a couple pieces of tall angle iron screwed into the floor.

Should you decide to do this: Be very careful to screw the panel mounts into the roof trusses. The roof between the trusses is very weak.

Sealing: This is how I did it: Figure out where you're going to screw the panels in, clean that part of the roof thoroughly, and mark the spots. Put self-leveling sealant on the roof where the mounts will sit. Put the panel onto the roof with the mounts at the locations marked. The self-leveling sealant will seal around the mounts and keep water from coming in from underneath the mounts. Drill pilot holes and screw the mounts down. Put more self-leveling sealant over the screws and mounts, completely covering the mount that's against the roof and the screw, and around the back side of the mount too. This will keep water from coming in along the screw or mount. It's very very important to seal the roof penetration properly and fully.


Should you decide to do something like replace the axle, unless this is the sort of thing you do on weekend for fun already have someone else do it. Really. It's all of 6 bolts for the springs and two wires for the brakes, but OH MY was that hard. All of the other stuff above I'd be comfortable doing again on a future trailer, but not that.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:26 PM   #5
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How can I thank you for all the information you've given me?

I take note of all the links and ideas you have described so well.

Thank you, it's very appreciated
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:03 PM   #6
Patrick
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Serge,


i experience severals problems since i bouth it one year ago. i have questions also for everyone. In fact, i have a 199DD and i have a water leak coming below my trailer. IT'S seam to coming out of a copper pipe coming in the trailer……. it dosent seam to be normal…. it is leaking outside but my isolant is wet below the tarp…….. is anybody can help me out with this issue?


regards,


Pat
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Old 07-08-2018, 02:26 PM   #7
atreis
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The copper pipe would be a propane line, so water coming out from around that is coincidental. I'm guessing "isolant" should have been "insulation" ...

While it's possible you could have a leak in a pipe or fitting below the floor, especially if the trailer wasn't properly winterized if you live somewhere that gets cold, but this is not the most likely case. (PEX is pretty tough stuff.) It's also possible you have a leak much higher up (roof) and you're seeing the water after it's come down through a wall and out the bottom.

There's really no easy way to go about this. First order of business is to figure out exactly where the leak is - where the water is coming from. Does it only happen when the water lines are pressurized? Only on city hookup? What about if using the demand pump? What about after it's been sitting for a few weeks without use? If it's only when the water lines have pressure, then it's likely a pipe or fitting. If it's when the water lines are not pressurized and it's just sitting, then it's most likely a roof or window leak that is running down inside a wall and then exiting the floor ...

Another possibility: Does it have a through-the-wall air conditioner? Does it only leak when the AC is running? Is the AC draining outside the trailer? If it's only when the AC is running, and you don't see condensation from the AC draining outside the trailer, it could be your AC condensate is draining into the wall. (Mine had this problem new. I took the AC out and redid the tray it sits in so that it would drain properly outside the trailer.)

What you do after you figure out where the leak is coming from will depend on the details as to where the water is coming from.
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atreis View Post
198BH here. Here are the changes I made:

Easy convenience items:

- Electric tongue jack.
- Bedlift kit on the storage area under the queen bed.
- Replaced the on-demand water pump with a Flojet variable speed (very quiet) pump.

Irritating items, but easy:

- Rebuilt the power cord holder after the original collapsed on me. (The only structural thing that actually failed in the trailer.)
- Rebuilt the air conditioner mount after discovering the condensation drain was draining into the wall instead of outside.

Moderately difficult, but not bad (The roof is NOT one you can walk on):

- Installed 340 watts of solar, Midnite Solar charge controller, and two 250 AH AGM batteries under the rear dinette seat. (A sort made for military use, meant to be in sealed compartments.)
- Replaced the original fridge with a 12 volt compressor fridge. I love this thing. Super efficient, and great temperature control.
- Added a 12 volt compressor freezer (mounted on top of the counter). Love this too.
- Added a 1000 watt PSW inverter. It doesn't get much use though. Most things run off 12V.
- Added bumper supports between the frame and the rear bumper.
- Added a bike rack to the rear bumper (thus the extra support).
- Installed an under-frame spare tire carrier.

Hard items:

- Replaced the 3500 Lb axle with a 5500 lb axle with 6 lug wheels and LR D tires. (The batteries and solar panels are heavy. The trailer's axle weight (measured at a Cat Scale) is about 3600 lbs, so was too close for comfort. A 4500 lb axle would have been fine, but the 5500 was a perfect fit on the frame.)
- Enlarged the wheel well openings some to accommodate the larger tires. Only the outer wall opening - the actual wheel well was already plenty big. (This was difficult. It was hard to get them looking as if it came out of the factory this way, but I did, except that the openings are square now instead of rounded. I tried to round them, but couldn't get the curve right with the tools I have, so just squared it off. Used black automotive trim and silicone adhesive to give the edge a nice finish.)

All of this was completed three years ago (by me - fun doing an axle alone). I've put perhaps 15K miles on the trailer since doing it, and all of it is working just like I had hoped. It's now a great small trailer for dispersed and dry camping. Aside from the power cord holder and AC mount I've had no issues at all with the original construction.
Hi there
I own a 189dd when I did the walk around with the tech at the dealership i noticed a gap in the shower from the tub to the wall so the teck fixed it with silicone , but I noticed after we shower the water runs from the sides down to the bathroom floor and then it hit me !! The tub when it wasn’t siliconed it dropped and the tech didn’t raise it before chaulking it so now it’s unevem
when I lift the lip from the outer part of the tub it seems good is it possible I can use some wood shimmy’s to raise it ??
Is this a diy project? If k have no choice I’ll go to the dealer but they take so so long amd they are sloppy
Any advice would be so appreciated
Thanks
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:13 PM   #9
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Hi I own an189dd my bathtub was installed from the factory uneven and they forgot to chalk silicone on the bathtub on the main wall side so when the tech fixed it
It was already dropped and now it’s uneven water goes everywhere got it get it done
Hope you don’t have the same problem
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:09 AM   #10
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I honestly haven't ever used the shower/tub for it's usual purpose. We use campground facilities for that, or a lake, or river .... We use the tub for laundry. I do think mine was installed right though (luckily).

Shimming it up doesn't seem unreasonable to me. You'd want to make sure the shims wouldn't be able to vibrate out of place while the trailer is going down the road, so likely would want to put a little glue on them. If you re-caulk, remove the old caulk first.

DIY? That's really up to you. I know this guy that thought replacing the axle was a DIY project ... but wouldn't do it again!
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Old 12-16-2020, 04:22 PM   #11
rburns6096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge View Post
hello Gulf Stream trailer owners

I am looking for Ameri-Lite trailer owners model of 189DD, 198BH or 199DD as I own myself.

I would like to share experiences with your model or the changes you have made to it.

I have tried to contact owners around Montreal in Canada where we live, without success.

Let me know

Serge
My name is Bob from Parker Co. I just bought the 189DD RV and will pick it up the last week of January. Do you have a TV antenna on the roof? where is the TV outside connection. I will let you know how are experiences are soon
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Old 07-23-2022, 02:58 PM   #12
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189 did changes included adding two propane tanks, bed lift, new full size queen bed 90lbs, cut cabinets both side bed. Next project is replacing battery with lithium. I use 300 watts of solar in truck bed. Added tv. Bob kin parker colorado
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Old 07-25-2022, 08:18 PM   #13
JimJohnson
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Default 2022 189DD mods

I have probably made at least 60 mods to our 189DD. Most are things like adding wall hooks for towels, toilet paper holder, etc.

The more significant changes are:
*the addition of weather hoods to the roof vents so we can ventilate in all weather and while driving.
*immediately replaced the horrible OEM mattress with one suitable for our older bodies
*sheathed the chipboard bed platform with a linen paint drop cloth (used blind staples to avoid snags), to protect the better mattress from slivers
*installed a prop rod to hold up the hinged bed platform
*installed front stabilizer scissors jacks (huge difference)
*replaced the foam in the dinette seat bottom cushions so we didn't sink to the bottom
*we have cats that might travel with us, we wanted to put covers on the dinette cushions to protect them. Finding a cover the right size was impossible until my spouse noticed something. The sheets for a Graco Pack n Play are perfect! One sheet for each bottom cushion and one sheet for each seat back cushion. Wrap the sheet 360 around the seat backs. The slight extra thickness also helps keep the seat backs in place while driving
*There are many times I want to use low-wattage 120 volt AC devices when we only have 12v DC power. Inverters are inexpensive, but there is no automotive style jack inside the camper. Winegard sells a version of the TV antenna amplifier that also includes this power jack. It is a simple swap that at worst might require adding spade connectors to the 12v DC wires behind the plate.
*I was thrilled to see that Gulf Stream put the fresh water tank and (so I thought) all the water lines inside the heated cabin. Turns out what while they could have actually done this, they in fact have a totally uninsulated line that goes from the tank to the cold water low drain point. I used a combination of rigid foam foundation insulation and expanding foam insulation to add an insulation to the underside of camper along the entire uninsulated run. This insulation is also very carefully sealed so road water does not get trapped between the insulation and the bottom of the floor. Foam tubing was also added to insulate the low drain point PEX piping. We often start or end trips where night-time temps dip a bit below freezing. A frozen water line is never a fun thing.

Those are the bigger modifications.
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Old 08-11-2022, 05:06 PM   #14
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Great ideas for my 189DD. Check your water tank supports on all 4 sides. My tank moved and the drain valve disconnected. I added a new bed. Replaced pressboard bed top with full size queen bed plywood support. Added two propane tanks. Added 200 watt solar to truck bed. Added folding steps to get on bed. Ordered front jacks like you did. Front tongue weight is 550 lbs.
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Old 08-11-2022, 07:07 PM   #15
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550 pounds on the tongue? Ouch. That exceeds the max tongue weight for our SUV tow vehicle. And the axle/tires have a max of ~3,850 pounds. Are you within the max trailer weight? If so, your tongue to axle weight ratio might be pushing it.

I actually like just a single 20 pound tank as the additional filled tank adds about 40 pounds to the tongue between the tank and the dual tank mount. And to be honest, I've never drained one tank on a trip. Do you do a lot of boondocking? Could you store a spare tank in the truck bed - or on the rear bumper? As electric is typically bundled into the overnight fee at campgrounds, we find that a small 600-900w space heater with a remote wireless thermostat typically eliminates the need to run the furnace. With DSI on the hot water heater and only about 15-20 minutes from cold to hot water, we don't run the water heater on the road.

I did add bumper reinforcement brackets to the rear bumper - no harder than adding front scissor jacks. We have an aluminum cargo basket and use it for lightweight but bulky items. Plenty of room for spare propane.

While a full length queen sounds good, it reduces the entry isle width by 6". That's where our golden retriever sleeps. He wouldn't be happy. LOL.

Hanging at the foot of the bed is is one of those flat-folding step stools. It would work for bed entry, but also so my wife can reach the kitchen ceiling vent. For the bathroom ceiling vent fan I added a wireless 12v relay. The wireless button is velcroed to the wall next to the light switch. I also used a Frenco and furniture grade PVC pipe to mount an extension rod for the vent knob so my wife didn't have to run for the step stool - and the bathroom vent is more out of the way.

An inexpensive magnetic door catch is mounted above the freezer to the bathroom door to keep it open when the bathroom is not in use (or the camper is rolling down the road) and let A/C & heat circulate. Cold toilet seats wake you quickly. LOL

I've mentioned adding insulation under the camper for the water line from the tank to the low drain point. I just purchased a couple brown PVC 5" round soffit vents - one on each side of the bed to allow heat to circulate around the water system. Not having water due to a frozen line is perhaps our biggest pain. I'm also mounting a quiet 5v USB fan in that area to minimize experiencing that pain. Unlike the AC outlets, the USB power outlets run off the battery when off grid.

Gulf Stream uses medium density foam in the dinette cushions. My wife and I sink low enough to feel like kids at the dinner table, and before too long start squirming. The seat backs are fine, but I purchased denser foam for the seats. YouTube has the tricks for getting new foam into the covers.

It sounds like a lot of mods, but I don't think I've spent more than $500-$600, nor added more than 125 pounds to the camper - and half of that (cost and weight) was the mattress.
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Old 09-07-2022, 08:37 AM   #16
Snowfam78
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Quote:
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550 pounds on the tongue? Ouch. That exceeds the max tongue weight for our SUV tow vehicle. And the axle/tires have a max of ~3,850 pounds. Are you within the max trailer weight? If so, your tongue to axle weight ratio might be pushing it.

I actually like just a single 20 pound tank as the additional filled tank adds about 40 pounds to the tongue between the tank and the dual tank mount. And to be honest, I've never drained one tank on a trip. Do you do a lot of boondocking? Could you store a spare tank in the truck bed - or on the rear bumper? As electric is typically bundled into the overnight fee at campgrounds, we find that a small 600-900w space heater with a remote wireless thermostat typically eliminates the need to run the furnace. With DSI on the hot water heater and only about 15-20 minutes from cold to hot water, we don't run the water heater on the road.

I did add bumper reinforcement brackets to the rear bumper - no harder than adding front scissor jacks. We have an aluminum cargo basket and use it for lightweight but bulky items. Plenty of room for spare propane.

While a full length queen sounds good, it reduces the entry isle width by 6". That's where our golden retriever sleeps. He wouldn't be happy. LOL.

Hanging at the foot of the bed is is one of those flat-folding step stools. It would work for bed entry, but also so my wife can reach the kitchen ceiling vent. For the bathroom ceiling vent fan I added a wireless 12v relay. The wireless button is velcroed to the wall next to the light switch. I also used a Frenco and furniture grade PVC pipe to mount an extension rod for the vent knob so my wife didn't have to run for the step stool - and the bathroom vent is more out of the way.

An inexpensive magnetic door catch is mounted above the freezer to the bathroom door to keep it open when the bathroom is not in use (or the camper is rolling down the road) and let A/C & heat circulate. Cold toilet seats wake you quickly. LOL

I've mentioned adding insulation under the camper for the water line from the tank to the low drain point. I just purchased a couple brown PVC 5" round soffit vents - one on each side of the bed to allow heat to circulate around the water system. Not having water due to a frozen line is perhaps our biggest pain. I'm also mounting a quiet 5v USB fan in that area to minimize experiencing that pain. Unlike the AC outlets, the USB power outlets run off the battery when off grid.

Gulf Stream uses medium density foam in the dinette cushions. My wife and I sink low enough to feel like kids at the dinner table, and before too long start squirming. The seat backs are fine, but I purchased denser foam for the seats. YouTube has the tricks for getting new foam into the covers.

It sounds like a lot of mods, but I don't think I've spent more than $500-$600, nor added more than 125 pounds to the camper - and half of that (cost and weight) was the mattress.
lots of nice mods...we have a 2021 199DD we have had for 2 years. lots of issues but better now( roof leak from factory, rotted out the floor and part of the wall. repaired under warranty)

-i made and added a ladder for the top bunk
-added front stabilizers
-added an electric jack
-added a rack for the sewer tote on the back
-added 2 vent covers which has been great so far
-trusty bottle opener inside lol
-reinforced the dinette seats, staples just dont hold at all
-replace the fresh tank drain when ours sheered off because the tank moved
-added a shower splah guard to help keep water in the shower lol
- tons of various hooks and such

also noticed last trip out i have a set of leafs on the kitchen side that have flattened out. going to get it ready and prepped to sell or trade in. we need more space and since getting an F150 vs the Grand cherokee i was using we can upgrade to bigger unit.
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Old 09-07-2022, 09:35 AM   #17
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Sad story - hope you are listening GS...
The dealer who delivered our 2022 189DD is a 6-hour one-way drive. Won't get into the bigger story how that happened. Factory defects appeared within 90 minutes away from the dealership. The factory installer put in all the screws for the lower front diamond plate perpendicular to the sheet metal. Unfortunately for him, that sheet curves so the floor with which those screws are supposed to intersect. Not a single screw was set. Luckily I saw on this 1st stop all the screws dangling. No big deal to fix once I got home, but you can't tell me the installer didn't notice the total lack of back pressure when driving those screws.
The tank/battery monitor panel seemed to work during the dealership walk-through. They were dead when I pulled into the RV park that night. Then they worked at home briefly and were dead again. I pulled the control panel and all the connections seemed secure. I called the dealer and gained permission to pull out my meter. Unfortunately the dealer couldn't obtain circuit diagrams nor accurate wire color schemes from GS. I spent hours going through connections with my VOM without finding the issue. Then I accidently bumped an overhead light switch while balancing the panel in my other hand. The monitor panel lighted up!? More circuit tracing showed the factory had reverse wired that light switch which meant the common 12+ lead had to go through the lights to ground to provide power to the tank monitor circuit board. Obtained permission to reverse those leads without voiding my warranty.
After our 1st outing, it looked like the black tank sensor wasn't working. I filled the tank to nearly full, and the monitor said E. This time I independently obtained the monitor system schematics and troubleshooting guides (from a user on another brand's forum). After verifying the resistor array pigtail was correctly operating I once again opened the control panel - because I now had the color scheme, I noticed that the feed wire to the black tank was different than I saw under the trailer. Another peek in the basement confirmed that the factory had reversed the wires connecting grey & black tanks inside the panel. Another contact with the dealership for permission to fix this error. (by the way, I always included photo proof of the error and my corrections).
The time spent on my part to repair obvious factory assembly defects annoyed me and I politely asked if there was even token compensation for my time. The dealership said the corporate owner wouldn't allow any cash compensation, but did contact their GS rep on my behalf. He was given names I should contact in GS customer service along with a phone number. I called three times, explained briefly to the receptionist why and who I was directed to speak with - only to have my calls directed to a 'no name' voice mailbox. A couple weeks later and I still have had no return call.
The dealership general manager and service manager are appalled. While they can't offer cash compensation, they are digging into their profits and sending me a few upgrade items from their parts store.
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Old 09-07-2022, 12:35 PM   #18
Snowfam78
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they are so cheaply built and don't stand behind their product. we fought for over a month to get the roof fixed and floor replaced and mold removed....it was such an extreme headache.. never mind the front panel like you said, hinges coming apart, dinette falling apart and screws coming out everywhere. absolute hack jobs
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Old 05-17-2023, 03:02 PM   #19
shwagon
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198BH here. Here are the changes I made:


- Replaced the 3500 Lb axle with a 5500 lb axle with 6 lug wheels and LR D tires. (The batteries and solar panels are heavy. The trailer's axle weight (measured at a Cat Scale) is about 3600 lbs, so was too close for comfort. A 4500 lb axle would have been fine, but the 5500 was a perfect fit on the frame.)
- Enlarged the wheel well openings some to accommodate the larger tires. Only the outer wall opening - the actual wheel well was already plenty big. (This was difficult. It was hard to get them looking as if it came out of the factory this way, but I did, except that the openings are square now instead of rounded. I tried to round them, but couldn't get the curve right with the tools I have, so just squared it off. Used black automotive trim and silicone adhesive to give the edge a nice finish.)
Great information in your post, @atreis! The information about the axle swap is extra intriguing to me. Do you feel that the wheel openings would need to modified if the axle were to be flipped (with the leaf springs on top)? Im guessing you're running 225/75-15 tires now?
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Old 06-13-2023, 02:38 PM   #20
Camping dan
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Do you by chance know the exact fridge you replaced the original one with? I was told mine is finished and I need a new one!
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