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Old 01-11-2015, 11:13 AM   #21
RacingEndura
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Default Re: Supernova engine stopped on own, won't start or turnover

dbhagner, can you post some pic of the install of the compressor and aired!
Thanks
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:49 PM   #22
omegaman67
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Default Re: Supernova engine stopped on own, won't start or turnover

Is there a specific part number for the rewiring? I have spliced - soldered the areas that have stranded my coach but would be interested in replacement part !.

Scott

Texas
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:46 PM   #23
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Plead for help; I have a super nova sitting in my drive way with the 40 amp fuse that keeps burning up. I have replaced it several times, is there a solution to the problem? I noticed that the wire gets extremely hot, would replacing it with a heavier wire fix the issue? the harness was replaced several years ago with the recall.
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:11 PM   #24
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I had this happen on our 6400. It was a connector under the frame in front got loose and melted the connector. Cut it out and hard wired and been good since. Mine was right by starter had 2 wires in it.
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Old 04-18-2020, 10:02 AM   #25
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My GS does the same thing just shuts off . Found the red 30 amp blow once with a do no start not on . Also had the 30 amp black fuse blow at a different time . Do I need to change these over to a 40 amp?
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Old 04-18-2020, 10:15 AM   #26
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My GS does the same thing just shuts off . Found the red 30 amp blow once with a do no start not on . Also had the 30 amp black fuse blow at a different time . Do I need to change these over to a 40 amp?
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Old 04-18-2020, 10:20 PM   #27
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Yes...replace that Fuse block if you have not done it...also had problem with Weatherpack Connectors in engine compartment. There is 3 position WP plug connector that controls the Injectors & will shut the engine down if it goes bad. There a big bunch of wires on the driver side just under the plastic weather shield, check the heavier gauge wires...the plastic connectors go bad.
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Old 04-19-2020, 08:36 AM   #28
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Thanks JohnnyAfrica .. will check it out
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Old 04-26-2020, 02:46 PM   #29
Gemini John
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Hi guys. My lead out of this problem was finally solved by splitting the battery power circuit that has fuses to 2 50 amp circuit breakers. The injector heaters are in this circuit. That's what fries the fuses. Too much amp draw. I thought I fixed this with 2 30 amp breakers, no more blown fuses but it would die 1 to 2 minutes after cold start. Once injectors were warm, circuit breakers were fine. Once my smart diesel mechanic and myself did old fashioned amp draw tests, the culprit was solved, for me at least. Even a great International dealer couldn't figure it out. That's what worked for me. 22k on the 08 Supernova, will be pulling a 30 foot trailer this year. Guess I'll find the next weak point. Still love how it drives. Hope this helps. Remember the amp draw, today's lesson. John
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Old 02-13-2022, 12:56 PM   #30
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As some one else noted there is a connector in the harness near the starter that melted in side the connector and let me sit along the highway. Bush fix got me home but we ran a second complete power wire from the battery to the engine fusebox reducing the load. Terrible location for the connector next to the starter power terminal.
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Old 02-13-2022, 02:54 PM   #31
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Default Class c won’t start back up after shutting off

Took Gulf Stream to the international dealer. The problem was not building oil pressure after running , engine was warm and oil was leaking by the the injectors
Had to replace all injectors , it’s important to keep the oil clean and changed $8,ooo later.
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Old 02-23-2022, 10:36 AM   #32
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Slightly different issue, but well known on 6.0's. I had it happen to my VT365 last summer. The ICP on the passenger valve cover goes bad, and will kill the engine while running. You can unplug the ICP and leave it unplugged with no harm, it will operate on a table inside the ECM. Unplug it, and it should start right up if it or the pigtail is bad. If you have and MP8, you have to unplug the MP8 from the pigtail as well. The MP8 being plugged in, but it unplugged from the ICP, will not start/run.

The pigtails and ICP's are known to go bad. Super easy fix, and lots of people have put thousands of miles on one with the ICP unplugged (I finished a 4K+ trip with it unplugged, no issues other than a CEL).

Just another quick thing to check if you have a dead SN or 6.0 ford on the side of the road!

Jeff
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Old 10-16-2022, 10:43 AM   #33
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Fellow Supernova owners, I own a Supernova 6331 (34ft) model and I'm the same issue but I'm having difficulty using the information in this thread. For example, the fuse holders next to or near the starting battery are mentioned on several of the responses but for the life of me I can't locate them on my RV. I did find a 40 amp fuse in a holder in the area of the right front wheel well but I don't know if this is the same fuse or not. I've checked all of the Weatherpack connectors in the engine compartment which are all good. Here's a recap of the symptoms. When I turn the key on everything seems normal accept for the Wait to Start light which is very inconsistent. Sometimes it comes on momentarily, sometimes not at all and sometimes comes on and doesn't go off. I am hearing the clicking coming from the passenger side fuse panel but not hearing the injectors clicking. Several of the forum responses don't have complete information so I would really appreciate if contributors to this thread filled in some of the details surrounding this issue, especially if you have a model 6331. Thanks so much.
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Old 10-16-2022, 07:03 PM   #34
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Default 40 amp fuse

There will be a fuse holder at one of your starting batteries. You might find that the fuse holder is burnt or the fuse is loose. There is a large white wire for the ground and a large red wire for the fuse. This is one of 3 places that you can have a problem. If you would like to call me I would be happy to walk you through this. I can be reached any time before 9:30 pm cst. at 318.949.4969.
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Old 10-16-2022, 07:04 PM   #35
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Give me a call anytime before 9:30 cst at 318.949.4969 I can walk you through this. There are a few places to check.
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Old 06-12-2023, 07:26 PM   #36
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Hey guys, I figured I would add to this thread as well.

Had a no start, no crank condition, as it died while idling for a few minutes. Went through all the locations mentioned in this thread to try and figure it out, as the symptoms were the same. No wait to start light, no crank, and a faint click under the passenger side dash.

But sadly, that wasn't the issue. However, once I dug into the wiring I noticed this connector was burnt. According to the interwebs, that is a common problem . This is the engine interface connector . Connects the chassis harness to the engine harness before the IDM.

The online technician said they normally cut the connector right out , and wire them together . Crimp fitting to put wires together , crimp , solder and shrink seal each connection and you will never have a problem again there. This connector was located between the engine valve cover and the brake master cylinder. You cant tell in the picture, but the wires were red, purple, purple.

I cut it out and spliced it though, and the truck fired right up. But amazingly, not only did it fire up, it idles more even and quieter than any time I've owned the truck. I'm guessing the failing connection was causing the injectors to be erratic, or some such thing. Anyways, thought I'd add to the knowledge pile.

Link to the online mechanic thread I read:

https://www.justanswer.com/medium-an...-location.html
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Old 07-10-2023, 10:33 AM   #37
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So, we got stranded again this past week. Similar problem to those listed above. Engine suddenly shut down as we were cruising on I-8; system tried to recover initially, and transmission downshifted to try to maintain speed on cruise control. Ended up getting towed to El Centro, CA where she once again sits.

Have full crank but no start; gauges cycle properly and "wait to start" lights up; engine cranks normally but no life. All of the suspect connections mentioned above were already cut-out and direct spliced and 40-amp fuse was replaced with self-resetting circuit breaker so engine would restart if it died during warm-up idle. No other blown fuses found. Local shop (not International) can't seem to connect with ECM through data port and was not able to find problem. He suggested getting it to dealer. Closest International dealer is in Yuma (60 odd miles), and they do not want to work on a motorhome.

Anyone know of good shop in the Yuma, AZ area? Other choices would be to have it hauled to Phoenix (same dealer chain as Yuma), San Diego (closest "big city") or maybe up to Las Vegas?
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