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Old 09-05-2006, 12:40 PM   #1
gsadmin
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Default Successful Troubleshooting...bad ground

So I go out to my rig last thursday AM to hook it up to the boat and get it ready for the departure later in the afternoon for the holiday weekend. We were going up to Bear Lake.

When I got in the coach, the house batteries were dead such that the jacks and the slides would not work. I started the genset and everything worked fine. Hmm... so I went out to the solenoids in the electrical compartment (one of the ones without a lift support, thanks again GS) and put a test light on them...no juice on them and no juice on the solenoid trigger. So, I went out to the batteries and with the coach plugged in, put my multimeter on them, it was only reading 11.2V...immediately i suspected the converter/charger so I put the meter on the output cables from the converter and ground and got 13.5...hmm. So i then put the positive on the converter cable and the negative on the battery negative terminal where the ground to chassis was connected...11.2V! Shazam! So I unbolted the chassis to battery ground cable and sure enough it was full of rust...I took sandpaper and files to everything, reassembled and BAM, back to normal everywhere!

Moral of the story...

1. When troubleshooting, almost always suspect faulty grounds before faulty equipment.

2. Every couple of years remove and clean the chassis ground.

Hope this helps some of you all.

P.S., I had to guess which wires were coming from the converter...I wonder why that was?
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Old 09-06-2006, 01:28 PM   #2
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Hmmmm.... You like quiz shows?
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:06 PM   #3
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Shazam, Bamm, Woink !! Hey Admin, can you fly to ??
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Old 09-06-2006, 05:17 PM   #4
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As a matter a fact in addition to being an RV-pilot, I am also a private (airplane) pilot!
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2004 Ultra Supreme Class A 30'
- Added hard-wired Pro-Sine 1000 Inverter
- Converted batteries to 4x6V from 2x12V
- Added Bully air-horn
- Added Safe-T-Steer

SLC, UT
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Old 09-07-2006, 12:25 AM   #5
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Good answer
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:00 AM   #6
GStream40
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The wiring Gremlins were at it again!!

I wonder if it would help to put No-Ox on that connection to the frame??

Ron
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Old 09-07-2006, 09:32 AM   #7
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I have never used No-Ox. I will have to look that up and give it a try next time.
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2004 Ultra Supreme Class A 30'
- Added hard-wired Pro-Sine 1000 Inverter
- Converted batteries to 4x6V from 2x12V
- Added Bully air-horn
- Added Safe-T-Steer

SLC, UT
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:13 AM   #8
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No-Ox provides a coating for electrical connections to prevent corrosion but does not provide interference with connectivity. It is widely used in industry on connections that are subject to corrosion. It is in a paste like form, comes in a can just like never-seeze.

Ron
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:16 PM   #9
gsadmin
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i have used something like that on contacts for circuit breakers...it was a paste in a tube that supposedly would prevent oxidation and reduce resistance.
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2004 Ultra Supreme Class A 30'
- Added hard-wired Pro-Sine 1000 Inverter
- Converted batteries to 4x6V from 2x12V
- Added Bully air-horn
- Added Safe-T-Steer

SLC, UT
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:55 PM   #10
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The paste you used is has the same principal, but No-Ox is better suited for being in the elements such as the frame connections where it does get a certain amount of rain, etc on it.

No-Ox also comes in a squeeze bottle much like Loctite thread locker does. I just looked in my workshop and found a bottle that I use.
It works great on the plugs/terminals for tow vehicle and toad. Prevents the corrosion/oxidation that always causes problems when connecting.

Ron
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