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Old 04-30-2018, 08:39 PM   #1
shv
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Default Can't figuare how to light gas on hot water heater

I just bought a 2006 Innsbruck model 24 FRBW (27ft). I can't figuare how to light gas side of water heater (Suburban model SW6DE). The 120V works fine. There is a switch outside behind w heater hatch. I turned it on to get the 120V to work. Doing some research, it looks like there is supposed to be another switch and indicator light inside the trailer. I've looked high and low and can't find anything.
Help! Thanks
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:27 PM   #2
Frutza
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Not familiar with that unit, but it is usually by the levels test switch for your tanks.
And oh, WELCOME
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:05 AM   #3
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Not familiar with that unit, but it is usually by the levels test switch for your tanks.
And oh, WELCOME
Thanks for responding. I went out this morning and looked at tank status panel again to see if I missed something. No good. But while sitting on stepup to bedroom I happened to look up under kitchen cabinet and there it was. I'm 6' so standing and looking straight on the switch was hidden behind the cabinet molding. Not sure why it was put there but I think it's a dumb place.
I want to thank you again because your response verified that the switch was there somewhere.
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:51 AM   #4
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Default Can't get water heater to light

My 2011 Gulf Stream Amerilite 21' water heater wont light. There is no visible outside access hatch to the heater beyond the intake/exhaust ports, but there's no heat from the port. Stove works so got gas.

The only control is the on/off rocker switch and reset button inside. Initially the reset lit up when I hit "on" but now nothing. Anything I'm missing?
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:37 AM   #5
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My 2011 Gulf Stream Amerilite 21' water heater wont light. There is no visible outside access hatch to the heater beyond the intake/exhaust ports, but there's no heat from the port. Stove works so got gas.

The only control is the on/off rocker switch and reset button inside. Initially the reset lit up when I hit "on" but now nothing. Anything I'm missing?
Maybe the fuse for the ignitor or bad ignitor.
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:39 AM   #6
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turns out there is an outside access panel. I found the heater drained but water lines had been set to bypass the heater so water still came from the sink hot water tap. Not knowing tank was empty I tried to light it numerous times. Is the heater now toast?>
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:12 AM   #7
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turns out there is an outside access panel. I found the heater drained but water lines had been set to bypass the heater so water still came from the sink hot water tap. Not knowing tank was empty I tried to light it numerous times. Is the heater now toast?>
Sounds like it was already bad because it was empty and bypassed.
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Old 04-30-2019, 12:02 PM   #8
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Being empty and bypassed may just be from being "winterized" for outside storage over winter freezing conditions...


It may be that the over-temperature protections may have saved you for the short times you were trying to start the empty water heater...so reconnect it and fill it and see if it functions correctly with no leaks. What have you got to loose?


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Old 05-01-2019, 06:25 AM   #9
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Being empty and bypassed may just be from being "winterized" for outside storage over winter freezing conditions...


It may be that the over-temperature protections may have saved you for the short times you were trying to start the empty water heater...so reconnect it and fill it and see if it functions correctly with no leaks. What have you got to loose?


Chuck
I was thinking that if you winterized it why would you bypass it?

It could be fine but that question still remains.

If my water heater was empty and bypassed that would mean it leaked.
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:38 AM   #10
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Restorium,


Some large class A coach RVs have heated basements so the water heater is less sensitive to cold weather while occupied over the colder months. But any UNATTENDED unit should have its water system winterized, either by adding RV antifreeze or by completely emptying the plumbing system using compressed air.


I lived full time in my 2007 Tour Master for more than 5 years so did not need to drain my water heater during that period. But there are many on-line check lists like the link below that clearly state to drain the WH and then bypass it before you add the antifreeze...


http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...-checklist.asp


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Old 05-01-2019, 10:28 AM   #11
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Restorium,


Some large class A coach RVs have heated basements so the water heater is less sensitive to cold weather while occupied over the colder months. But any UNATTENDED unit should have its water system winterized, either by adding RV antifreeze or by completely emptying the plumbing system using compressed air.


I lived full time in my 2007 Tour Master for more than 5 years so did not need to drain my water heater during that period. But there are many on-line check lists like the link below that clearly state to drain the WH and then bypass it before you add the antifreeze...


http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...-checklist.asp


Chuck
That makes sense.

I use my air compressor to winterize and hadn't thought of bypassing then adding the antifreeze. I think that would make me concerned about the pipes between the tank and the bypass valves still having some water in them. You would have to count on them all gravity feeding out when you drained the heater tank. That seems like a bad idea in my opinion. One coach I bought had a plastic fitting cracked by freezing between the bypass and the tank.
I understand why that was cracked now. Someone bypassed the tank, added antifreeze, and there was still some water in the bypass line.
I would advise against the practice of bypassing and then adding anti freeze. Doesn't always work.
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