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Old 08-03-2018, 05:33 PM   #21
CoachStreamr
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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
CoachStreamr, could I trouble you to take some pictures of the PacBrake install? I am going to install one in my coach and would like to duplicate a professional install if possible. I am especially interested in how they mounted the Brake in the Exhaust Pipe and how and where they installed the Throttle Position Switch. Thanks, Ed
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Originally Posted by xwhyz1959 View Post
Which PacBrake model are you using? I'm very interested in this myself!

The Pac Brake on this Coach does also down shift the Allison.


Attached are pics I took last fall. I was focusing on the turbo and exhaust manifold/temp sensor, not the Pac Brake. I probably could get under there and take better pics.


The pics were taken after the first Turbo Kit Install. Cummins initially installed Turbo Kit #3802777 and it should be #3802779, the wastegate is what is different but it messed with the idle the MD3060 sometimes didn't want to shift out of Neutral due to higher idle. Is the reason I found out they installed the wrong kit. Someone mixed-up the engine's SN last 2 digits (had 50 vs the correct 20) of the engine's serial number so the Turbo Kit for a 210hp was initially installed. Cummins swapped the entire Turbo Kit and correct one for this engine (230hp). I guess just the wastegate could have been swapped but I wanted the correct Turbo Kit with the model number stamped. They also greased up that accelerator linkage /idle adjustment area. Haven't had that Allison issue since.


Before I even contacted them about the wrong kit, I verified part numbers myself at: https://parts.cummins.com/#/esn-entry/main

You can use the link above, enter your engine's serial number and get some interesting data on your engine.




It helped, but their tech still investigated and sure enough, they made a mistake. Pays to be on top of things yourself as well.

The switch looks similiar to this one but doesn't have the wording on it.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20171024_172327.jpg (166.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20171024_172334.jpg (163.9 KB, 9 views)
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:16 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Washington travler View Post

Hey CoachStreamr what part of Washington do you live ? I am in the Columbia River Gorge in Klickitat .

Olympia / Lacey


Cummins is in Portland, closer to you. They also warehouse the parts, my manifold and turbo(s) where shipped to Oly from down there.


.
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:17 PM   #23
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That 20 Amp is the Breaker in the Electrical Panel, he is popping the Breaker mounted on the Generator itself. They do go bad over time, I replaced both of mine on the Generator in the past, not hard to do.

Yes, I have to look up the part number so I can replace (it's a Generac NP-66G). I may replace both as well while I'm at it. I have not even researched that yet.


Where did you purchase your breakers and do you have the part numbers?


.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:08 PM   #24
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You are lucky, all PacBrake has now for my engine is a universal 4" unit. I have to cut my Exhaust pipe and weld two 4" to 3" adapters in to mount the unit. So far I am not happy with my options as the Transmission Dip Stick Tube limits the available space and this 4" brake will not fit close to the Turbo so I am looking for any other options. Do you know where they mounted the Idle detection switch? You say you have to crawl under there to look at this setup, On my coach, all I have to do is lift the bed, makes servicing so much easier. It is amazing what a different floor plan will do to accessibility of certain items. I love my engine access but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:12 PM   #25
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Yes, I have to look up the part number so I can replace mine. I may replace both as well while I'm at it. I have not even researched that yet.


Where did you purchase your breakers and do you have the part numbers?


.
Sorry, it was several years ago that I replaced them. You do not have to use the official Onan part, when I removed the breakers, I just looked them up from the original manufacturers part number and they were, if I remember right about 1/3 less than from Onan.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
You are lucky, all PacBrake has now for my engine is a universal 4" unit. I have to cut my Exhaust pipe and weld two 4" to 3" adapters in to mount the unit. So far I am not happy with my options as the Transmission Dip Stick Tube limits the available space and this 4" brake will not fit close to the Turbo so I am looking for any other options.

Maybe an outlet/dealer has new old stock? I have the invoice for this Coach's Pac Brake, done in Nevada over 12 years ago.


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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
Do you know where they mounted the Idle detection switch?

I don't.. I'm curious though since I had an issue after Cummins installed the first incorrect turbo and I was having a issue with the Allison (code indicated high idle). Perhaps, provide me more info and/or what this looks like and I will take a look.


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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
You say you have to crawl under there to look at this setup, On my coach, all I have to do is lift the bed, makes servicing so much easier. It is amazing what a different floor plan will do to accessibility of certain items. I love my engine access but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed

Well, my wife has the bedroom decked out, big deal to move things out to lift the bed due to her decorating (hard to explain). Great engine access from under the bed but it's what all around the bed (some for easy access for our 2 dogs), 12 pillows etc. We essentially use the Coach as a tiny home as it's parked next to our house, we use it year around, more space, more fun. We have a privacy on our property and are creating kind of a RV camping out type of environment for our Coach here. Of course when we take it to Cummins, I have to take all of that out.



I think I took those pics from the driver's rear most bay (only house batteries and the big air filter in that large bay) and there is plenty of room to get my head and hand in there to take pics. Even getting under is not a problem, plenty of clearance for me even with the air out (though the rear tires are on custom made pads with 3/4" rubber stall pads on top).


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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed

Do you have a manifold water system? I'm actually pretty impressed with the layout/access of this model's system. I've already replaced the furnace (old one's motor went out, I still have the old one and will replace the motor eventually for back up). BTW, new Suburban furnaces have much more plastic vs 90's models.



Plumbing lines seem to be easy access on this model.


We did have water leak last fall and one of the fittings under the kitchen sink cracked/was cracked. It was for the 2nd little refrig/ice maker which doesn't work anyways - I turned off that line at the manifold. While investigating the cracked fitting, I discovered a flaw probably in Gulf Streams (and other brands?) in this era (maybe for the manifold systems?) I most concerned about those copper elbows/90 degress with the knobs - had one knob fitting crack now


It appears to be polybutylene plumbing (commonly referred as PB?) and Vanguard was forced to abandon using that plastic after S.C. Shell Oil Co.'s decision to stop making PB resin for pipe.


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/crack...ml#post3916028

Quote:
A typical Polybutylene system is found in homes, hotels, multi-family housing, and mobile homes built between 1978 and 1996. Polybutylene was an inexpensive alternative to PEX and copper. It was much easier to install and one-third the cost of copper piping to purchase, and nearly half the cost of PEX.
You may want to research that for future reference.



.




.
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by CoachStreamr View Post
Olympia / Lacey


Cummins is in Portland, closer to you. They also warehouse the parts, my manifold and turbo(s) where shipped to Oly from down there.


.
My nephew in law lives in Lacey.(he is in army) Wife was just up there for mini family reunion a week ago. I moved here from Texas to retire almost wound up in Port Angeles. Now I am on the edge river next to the desert. Not much rain just blue skies. Read how to do attachments turns out file is too large "PDF from spartan."

Thanks for all the links and info these were all questions I was wondering about. Poly pipes with plastic poly fitting is a receipt for disaster. Owned a few properties with them in went to metal joints and sold properties. Did get the poly settlement but lost more than payment.

I love older things just built much better.
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:57 PM   #28
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Let me know if you are hunting for other things in regards to these Coaches. I have a gmail draft (and backed up to drive) with lots of links, by topic, for the things I researched.



I may even just start a thread one day and list all my sorted links. I'm still adding to this though.


I think GS gets a bad rap many times on forums but I'm impressed with it including the electric and plumbing systems. The last owner already replaced the refrig in 2014, I need to sanitize the washer and do something with the 2nd little mini-fridge/ice maker, want to replace it but those things are expensive. Second owner upgraded the inverter/battery charger.


The one thing I wish it had was solid wood cabinets but I knew the moment I first saw the interior pics of the listing that my wife would want to buy it. She never liked the darker color cabinets in most RV's (except maybe cherry). Her favorite color is cream with gold accents and this Coach has it. The cabinet doors are pressed with that plastic like (or other) covering, easy to keep clean but the edges can separate and/or crack. Wife absolutely loves the interior.


I wanted the chassis (She wanted the interior) and Spartan was on the top of my list. I wanted the interior height and amazed this Coach is 6' 9", most in the 90's seem to be less than 6"6". I wanted to avoid a slide in the 90's era Coaches since I read issues with these initial designs/implementations, I wanted a wide body and straight though walk way from front to back (through the center), no L-shape cabinet/counter in the kitchen. I think this makes the interior feel spacious. I like how much basement storage (full width pass-thru) there is and the storage height.


I've tracked down the storage door handle/locks and that Company still makes them. Order a few and replaced.


We did buy the Coach some scrapes/damage on one basement door and rear side, last owner did this leaving a campground at night. No chassis damage, just body but the basement door did penetrate the surface. I have a temp repair on there to keep weather out. May have someone do the repair or I may try it myself learning to do fiberglass repair. I've already received info from several people.


.




.



.
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Old 08-04-2018, 03:16 PM   #29
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Thanks for all the links and info these were all questions I was wondering about. Poly pipes with plastic poly fitting is a receipt for disaster. Owned a few properties with them in went to metal joints and sold properties. Did get the poly settlement but lost more than payment.

So you know first hand. My family has been in the Building business (custom and spec homes) for 60 years but around here the manifold systems have only been used for about 15 years and many contractors and plumbers still prefer copper. One of the trusted plumbers we contracted with for 25 years would never work with those systems so when a Custom wanted it, we contracted with other companies. Of course these are no longer poly.

I'm still trying to figure out what I am going to do to replace the cracked thumb fitting (not sure what to call it) on the copper 90 degree. The one for the mini refrig/ice maker is cracked but I closed that line at the manifold. Still have not replaced.

Should be prepared for when these fittings need to be replaced on other lines.

I have a thread here:


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/crack...ps-367395.html


.
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:07 PM   #30
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I have been using the Shark Bite fittings on the plumbing, if I ever find a manifold at a decent price I will probably replace all the PB with PEX. I might even do away with the Manifold and go back to old fashion plumbing layout with shutoff valves at each fixture. Not much will happen until I retire next May, then I will go to work in earnest. Right now it takes me forever to do anything, I spent Late May through this weekend just replacing the Dash A/C Expansion Valve and receiver dryer, while I had the dash off I reinforced the plastic cutouts for the switch panel, Instrument panel and entertainment/camera panel with 3/8" plywood around the cutout so the screws have something to bite into, I also had to straighten out the wiring mess from the previous owner and Gulf Stream, sealed four holes under the dash where Gulf Stream had run the wiring harnesses and HVAC Hoses through the decking. They sealed them with aluminum tape and it came loose. I also found two large air leaks in the corners above the head lamp modules. I used a spray foam kit to seal those two and cut custom patches and RTV for the hose/wiring harness holes. I hope I can now drive in the colder weather this fall with out my feet freezing. Hopefully the A/C will also work properly now.


CoachStreamr, as far as the furnace, I had the motor go out on me also, would run but not fast enough to set the sail switch. I was where I need the furnace and could not get any parts for two days. I removed the motor and used three-in-one oil on the shaft bearings and it has been running fine for the last six or seven years. I am going to pull the furnace next year and clean all the wiring contacts on the circuit board and do a general inspection and re-oil the motor, I had a couple of issues where un-plugging and re-plugging the wiring harness corrected the problem. I am still on the original Reefer and have no separate freezer and I have replaced the sink faucets. I will probably replace them both next year for something the wife likes instead of what I had removed from the house.


Tonight I found the rear A/C fan motor has quit so I will have to see if Oil will free it up or if I will have to replace the capacitors, I am not ready to replace that unit yet. If I do it will be with an Atwood Heat Pump like I put in the Front when that A/C bit the dust two years ago.
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Old 08-05-2018, 03:08 PM   #31
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CoachStreamr, as far as the furnace, I had the motor go out on me also, would run but not fast enough to set the sail switch. I was where I need the furnace and could not get any parts for two days. I removed the motor and used three-in-one oil on the shaft bearings and it has been running fine for the last six or seven years.
Exactly what happen to this Coach's original furnace. It also made a noise upon shut down that I didn't like. Didn't know about three-in-one.

We don't winterize and didn't have many choices (though I have backup heat in the cabin and basement, it happened when we had weeks of <20 degree temps. Ordered one from Amazon (Amazon actually was the seller) for a good price, received in 2 days from their distributor back east. Right off the bat I could tell they may have been a repack. The blower's plastic shroud was also cracked. I installed it anyways to get heat going - after I called Amazon. They shipped out another overnight.

The 2nd new one came the next day from a Spokane Distributor and the furnace was packed as expected for a new one.

This is the Q (quiet) model. More plastic on these and a different design. The original had a metal blower and metal shroud, easy access to the sail switch. New one is plastic and seems the sail switch is enclosed in the plastic outer shroud. I stayed with the same BTU output. Perhaps like a lot of things, the <2000 models were built better?

I will eventually replace the motor (by a quality oem motor) on the original one. It will probably go into a future shed/tiny home that we want to build on the property. Should work okay to heat that.

I did replace all the foil tape below the furnace (around that furnace bay) and around the floor duct work. Old foil tape was cracked and not all the heated air was going into the duct as it should.

I suggest anyone with an original furnace to pull the furnace out and check that foil tape.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
I have been using the Shark Bite fittings on the plumbing, if I ever find a manifold at a decent price I will probably replace all the PB with PEX. I might even do away with the Manifold and go back to old fashion plumbing layout with shutoff valves at each fixture. Not much will happen until I retire next May, then I will go to work in earnest. Right now it takes me forever to do anything, I spent Late May through this weekend just replacing the Dash A/C Expansion Valve and receiver dryer, while I had the dash off I reinforced the plastic cutouts for the switch panel, Instrument panel and entertainment/camera panel with 3/8" plywood around the cutout so the screws have something to bite into, I also had to straighten out the wiring mess from the previous owner and Gulf Stream, sealed four holes under the dash where Gulf Stream had run the wiring harnesses and HVAC Hoses through the decking. They sealed them with aluminum tape and it came loose. I also found two large air leaks in the corners above the head lamp modules. I used a spray foam kit to seal those two and cut custom patches and RTV for the hose/wiring harness holes. I hope I can now drive in the colder weather this fall with out my feet freezing. Hopefully the A/C will also work properly now.
Yes, that is what has been recommend to me in that thread I linked in a previous post.

Do you replace the entire line with Pex or just the PB fittings/ends with Shark Bite fittings?


In most cases when I cut off the old 90 degree fitting, I may be short on that line. Shark Bite has a Poly Adapter that I think would work (I'd cut the PB line back more then use the Shark Bite Adapter with some pex and proper fitting on the end. Have not finished my research yet.

Shark Bite Poly adapter: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/crack...ml#post3916057

There is a company that makes a manifold to replace the one in my Coach and I believe Viega purchased the Manabloc lines. You can special order the replacement.

https://www.viega.us/en/homepage.html

Video:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/crack...ml#post3916028

I actually like the manifold setting and If I ever plumb something new in the future, probably will go to pex and manifold and ignore our old school plumber friends.


.
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Old 08-05-2018, 03:20 PM   #32
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Tonight I found the rear A/C fan motor has quit so I will have to see if Oil will free it up or if I will have to replace the capacitors, I am not ready to replace that unit yet. If I do it will be with an Atwood Heat Pump like I put in the Front when that A/C bit the dust two years ago.
Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


.
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:04 AM   #33
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I work nights, 12 shifts, so I don't get much time to concentrate on mine. I appreciate all the information my friends! I'll keep you posted when I get back to working on mine.
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:17 PM   #34
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Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


.
I will try and keep the old A/C going, the new one I put up front is nice and quiet and we don't want that in the bedroom. We turn the fan to ON instead of Auto so we don't hear the compressor start and stop and the drone of the fan acts like a white noise machine for our sleeping hours. The new Atwood unit is great out front where you can talk with out having to raise your voice, but I can't make the fan run 24/7 to act as the white noise I want for sleeping. If I do have to replace the back unit I probably will go with a Coleman Heat pump of 15000 BTU to replace the Coleman A/C only 13000 BTU unit.
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Old 08-07-2018, 01:30 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=CoachStreamr;25785]Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


Old things are built much better and to last a long time. Newer things were designed to fail. Guess I am partial old school. While new is nicer for a while the quality shows as time goes on. Many things I have gone to new but expect to throw them away when they break.

In the 80's they came out with new product PB plumbing engineered wood etc. I bought into them. I will never trust a new item over one I know for sure is reliable. Have not since. I live in a 100 year old house it is built like a fortress.

That is the reason for the older coach without slide outs. I was just looking for the engine and transmission, chassis that was bullet proof as possible. I also own a 93 ford crew cab 460 4x4 pristine condition. (not a daily driver)
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:03 PM   #36
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Well, I checked the A/C out tonight and it fired up right away, after it ran a few minutes the fan again quit. As free as the fan motor turns, I will replace the run capacitor this weekend. I searched my spare parts pile and found the required cap, 7.5mfd at 370vac. I also found my silver duct tape and with no rain forecast for the weekend i should be up and running in short order. Just in time for the Family Reunion vacation
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