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02-26-2010, 06:33 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Monroe
Posts: 34
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Soft Floor
I checked the drain grate this afternoon and the seal looks good and there is water in the pee-trap so thats not leaking; The shower pan is one piece and in excellent condition ie no cracks or indications of damage;
Still got me fuddled....
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Jeff.
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02-27-2010, 06:17 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
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On ours I noticed that if you lean against the shower wall when you are in the shower, you can open a gap in the seam where the wall meets the floor pan. I took some clear silicon caulk and went around all the seams.
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03-01-2010, 09:34 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Monroe
Posts: 34
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soft floor
Thanks MFA, I'll check on that; If I remember correctly though our shower is a two piece; we've got the floor pan which wraps around and comes up about eight inches and then we've got the walls that slip down on the inside and overlap so any water running down the walls falls to the pan; I'll check on it this weekend and see if I am remembering incorrectly; Thanks for your help, this site has always been great; I try to scan it and look for questions I might be able to help out with to pay it back;
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Jeff.
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03-04-2010, 01:42 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tuscaloosa
Posts: 47
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Water leak
The nut and rubber can't be seen looking down drain it has to be seen from under side. The water line to the sink is not a likely candidate as a line usually only fails at a junction or connection. If the particle board as gotten soft even a small amount it really needs replacement. If you stop the leak maybe the particle board will dry up and get hard again, but it usually swells and gets brittle. In any event You need to see under the carpet or tile. Its not unusual to have to make a hole to get to plumbing fixtures. ( The shower Mixer valve in your home prime example) I still believe the leak is only when the water is on. And you are correct that a small leak would be soaked up before dripping. You could try letting the water run in the shower for double or triple the usual time, I don't recommend this because the water may spread the damaged floor. I think you just need to go ahead and take up the flooring and anything else that's is in the way. I think you will find the job much easier than you think once you see it all removed. The way to put it back will be obvious
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Dexter Ray
1999 Gulfsteram Sun Voyager Bus Model 8362
Cummins Diesel Pusher
"ROLL TIDE" WE ARE #1
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03-14-2010, 06:23 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Monroe
Posts: 34
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Soft floor
I agree Dexter; Next step, cut out a section of linoleum and subfloor and see whats going on;
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Jeff.
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04-20-2010, 04:53 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 1
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Same Problem
I have the same problem in my 2005 Yellowstone. Same location, and I do think it's water damage because in the middle of winter I went in there and stepped on the spot and it crunched as if ice crystals were crushing. Please do report how hard it was to get the floor fixed, I am trying to sell it and as soon as people step on that spot they immediately are not interested in buying. Just like yours, it's ONLY between two floor joists, everything fore and aft is fine, solid as a rock.
Thanks
Dave W.
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05-07-2010, 09:23 PM
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#27
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
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Soft floor
Jeff,
I have the GS 6340 and the soft floor in the bathroom/ hall area above the axle. This is caused by the leveling jacks. If I run the rear jacks down, the floor in the bathroom sinks about 1/2 inch below the bathroom wall. Also the sidewall on the bedroom slide punches out ... and it cracked the metal wall frame.
And no.. I am not gonna fix it.. Just gonna run the wheels off of it and go.
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06-17-2010, 07:28 AM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 23
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We had a 2005 Endura that had the same problem. No leaks but spongy floor. Ours was the model with the shower and everything in the bathroom, yours must be the other with the shower on the outside of the stool and lav? Anyway, Enduras were know for a soft spot there and we had to take it to the factory to get it fixed.
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01-13-2011, 01:15 AM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: East Texas
Posts: 15
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to Kart74
How did the factory at GS fix the spongy floor? I fixed it by putting a brace length-wise in the area above the axle. The problem seems to me to be just too much space between the floor joists in front and behind the axle, it is further apart than the other similar spaces. So our local motorhome people made me a brace, works quite well.
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06-29-2018, 05:11 PM
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#30
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 1
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I just bought a 2005 ultra super c with a soft spot in the same place. Right outside the bathroom. The dealership assured me that it was a support issue common in gulf streams. That sounded like he was blowing smoke, glad I checked here. We're going to take things apart and add insulation so we will check the shower while we're at it. the dealership said they were going to add support to the flooring in that area before we pick it up... thanks for posting!
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06-30-2018, 10:10 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Mechanicsville, Md.
Posts: 487
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Ice Maker
My 05 Sun Voyager had quite a bit of soft wood especially on the right side near where the rear slide meets the body. Initially thought that was the problem so I inspected the slide seals and cleaned and coated them with some "Slide Seal Restorer" even thought these seals looked fine. Sprayed with hose from all angles and could not find water.
Moved on and decided to check out the function of the side by side reefer and Ice Maker. Well the boxes chilled down just fine and the ice maker kept cycling but there was no water reaching the cube tray. Oh well left it over night and the next morning there was water dripping from the slide room. I discovered the water line for the ice maker had came off and every time the ice maker asked for water a measured amount was spewed out on the floor under the reefer and over the water heater and furnace. I have repaired all but one small area under the big slide but not exposed either in or out of the cabin. The flooring in mine is pressed wood. The areas I repaired are now 3/4 plywood. I plan to pull the bed and pedestal and replace the entire bedroom floor next winter.
Sudsy
Oh yea, that reefer weighs 260 lbs. took three of us. two to stabilize while I reconnected and clamped water line. I think either someone pulled on it or tried to blow too much air thru it .
__________________
2005 Sun Voyager Workhorse W24 with 8.1 ltr Chevy. Allison 2100 transmission. Full body paint.
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07-01-2018, 05:45 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 557
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You could test out the theory that the leak is in the shower wall by somehow plugging the shower head, turning on the shower, and see if the pump runs. That would indicate whether there is a leak there or not without tearing anything apart.
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07-01-2018, 12:02 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Mechanicsville, Md.
Posts: 487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Restorium
You could test out the theory that the leak is in the shower wall by somehow plugging the shower head, turning on the shower, and see if the pump runs. That would indicate whether there is a leak there or not without tearing anything apart.
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On my coach (and most other campers I have seen) there is an access panel on the bottom side of the shower enclosure. If that is present it is there so you can repair a leaky drain. (Hum)
If there is one then remove the cover and look in there. Try running the water and shutting the shower head down to trickle. See if there are leaks. Actually you will know as soon as you open the panel if that's where the leak is.
Sudsy
__________________
2005 Sun Voyager Workhorse W24 with 8.1 ltr Chevy. Allison 2100 transmission. Full body paint.
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