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Old 11-28-2018, 05:34 AM   #11
Big Shasta
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On my motorhome the yellow wire was cut. I figure that the previous owner worried that somehow the engine battery was going to get killed by the coach circuit so they made sure it wouldn't by cutting the yellow wire. My solenoid wasn't clicking when we bought it. The rocker switch on the dash could easily get pushed and keep the two systems connected on a stay and then all the batteries could go dead leaving the coach stranded. My switch is not 'momentary', it can stay on.
That doesn't sound good. Mine is only on while you hold it. I'll have to try again, make sure it's quiet and see if I can hear any clicks.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:17 PM   #12
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Not running and disconnected.
I believe that the B.I.R.D is the issue. When I test the voltage coming from the bird to the solenoid using the ground and solenoid pin on the bird, I get a voltage of under 4v. According to the troubleshooting guide for the B.I.R.D this seems like it should be above 12v. Waiting for a call back from Intellitec to confirm that I am checking the device correctly.
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:20 AM   #13
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I believe that the B.I.R.D is the issue. When I test the voltage coming from the bird to the solenoid using the ground and solenoid pin on the bird, I get a voltage of under 4v. According to the troubleshooting guide for the B.I.R.D this seems like it should be above 12v. Waiting for a call back from Intellitec to confirm that I am checking the device correctly.
I got a call back from Intellitec. Looks like the voltage at from the solenoid post should be under 4v. The said that if there is a difference of more than .1v between the post for the coach versus the post for the chassis at the solenoid, then the solenoid is bad. I need to test that next. If the solenoid is fine, then they suggested that it's a connection issue between the solenoid and the chassis batteries. Oh the joy of RV ownership
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:28 AM   #14
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Do you get 12 volts at the yellow control wire when you flip the switch? Does the solenoid click?
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:43 AM   #15
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UH! I noticed the stair step is not fully retracted when I am traveling down the road. Is it possible the chassis bypass that automatically retracts the step when the RV is moving is applying power continuously to the step in an effort to retract it??? This would increase the amp draw on the house battery substantially when driving down the road. Add the radio, navigation, frig, etc, I might be up to 20-25 amps.

Shouldn't the alternator be able to keep up with a 25 amp discharge?
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:42 AM   #16
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UH! I noticed the stair step is not fully retracted when I am traveling down the road. Is it possible the chassis bypass that automatically retracts the step when the RV is moving is applying power continuously to the step in an effort to retract it??? This would increase the amp draw on the house battery substantially when driving down the road. Add the radio, navigation, frig, etc, I might be up to 20-25 amps.

Shouldn't the alternator be able to keep up with a 25 amp discharge?
Here's the part that is confusing you;

The engine battery IS NOT connected to the house battery normally.


Your problem is most likely the alternator, engine battery, or both.
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:46 AM   #17
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After about 4 hours in-route my house battery runs down, the radio will not work, and I cannot start the generator to charge it.


If I jump start the generator, the house battery charges. Once hooked up at an RV site, the house battery charges correctly.

Is their a combiner or solenoid that connects the Chassis and Coach battery system? Where do I look for these components?


Got an suggestions?

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The engine battery starts the generator. Your engine battery died while driving. This usually points to the alternator as the problem. Could be as simple as bad connections on the engine battery, or a bad engine battery.
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:49 AM   #18
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Now the house battery;

The most likely cause of your house battery going dead while driving is an old battery. Or too much stuff on. Turn the stuff off and if it still goes dead then it's the battery.
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Old 12-09-2018, 06:56 AM   #19
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The engine battery starts the generator. Your engine battery died while driving. This usually points to the alternator as the problem. Could be as simple as bad connections on the engine battery, or a bad engine battery.
Not in my coach...my generator starts off the house batteries. When the shop that worked on my coach pulled the converter breaker and forgot to reset it my house batteries went dead. I didn't realize what they had done and in my troubleshooting I was chasing why it wouldnt charge from shore power so I tried to start the generator. It was dead dead too. So I started the main diesel engine and it fired right off. Found the converter breaker was flipped and all worked again after charging....interesting note, the house/main battery switch on the dash won't help you start the generator in this situation like it will the main engine with a dead chassis battery.

If he had excessive drain on the house batteries while in route then it's possible the alt. isn't keeping up with charging it. BUT, if the steps staying out was drawing that much current then it would likely blow the fuse. And I'm sure the alt is capable of putting out 150+ amps so that shouldnt matter too much.

You should be able to see ~14v on the house batteries when the engine is running...that would indicate they are being charged. If not, work your way upstream in the electrical schematics and find why there is no charging voltage to the house batteries.
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:16 AM   #20
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Thanks for the correction.
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