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Old 10-23-2018, 09:17 AM   #1
Big Shasta
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Default Guardian/Generac Generator removal 06 Gulf stream Crescendo

Starting a new topic for this removal so it isn't lost on the old topic with my generac issues. http://www.gsowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6310

To add to my "wont crank fast enough to start when hot" starter issue, my 7500W generator sounded like it threw the belt(s) off right before it died while I was relying on it to shelter my family in the aftermath of hurricane Micheal when our home had no power/water (luckily we just had some trees/fence down and no house damage). As you can imagine, it only increased my Guardian generator hate. But I'm stuck with it for now. Thankfully I was able to wire up my portable 6500 watt house generator to run the entire RV using the 220V/30Amp plug on the generator and taking the receptacle off my 50 amp extension cord. It just ate a lot of gas. Even with both ACs running the generator never showed more than 70% load.

With the inability to find more than one person willing to R/R this generator so it can be repaired and this one shop being so backed up I have no definitive date for the work getting done; I've decided to remove the generator myself. I can then either take it to one of the numerous shops that will repair it under warranty if it's out, or do it all myself. I'll probably get the generator repair place to do the warranty part on the generator/belts so the insurance covers those parts/labor. Also, the fact that everyone says my coach warranty won't cover the ~1000.00 worth of R/R labor it only helps make my decision.

Has anyone removed one, I couldn't find a thread? If I do it, I'll make a detailed thread. My plan is to get it unhooked, lowered and resting on an ATV lift (90.00 harbor freight 1500lb limit, generator weighs 486lbs dry) then use the RVs leveling jacks system to raise the front of the coach (with cribbing under the wheels for safety as it goes up.) until I can slide the generator out. It's only 22" high so I don't think it'll take too much. Then lower the coach while the generator gets repaired and reverse the process. It is sitting on a 6" thick reinforced concrete pad with lots of room to work. Thoughts on this plan?

Also, The generator currently has about 1400 hours on it (previous owner dry camped a lot only ~22K miles on the coach)

Along with the main fix of starter and belts, what would be recommended as preventative while it was out?

I have a generac repair manual and the full parts breakdown. Looks like consumable options are:
Oil/Filter
Air Filters
Fuel Filter
Antifreeze replacement
belts replacement (fan belt and drive belt)
Both Belt Tensioners
coolant hoses replacement
Glow Plugs
2 Slip Ring Brushes
Water Pump even?

No idea how many years I'll have this coach but I'd like to lessen my chances of having to do this again.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:57 PM   #2
jimcox
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Default Generator

Hello Big Shasta.

I saw that no one with a Generac has responded so I will give you my recent experience.

I have a 2007 Yellowstone 8386. It has an ONAN 7500 quiet diesel. The generator would run for about 10 minutes and then quit. The code I was getting from the generator was that it was too hot. This was either the temp sensor, broken fan belt or bad water pump. The shop I have my rig maintained by is more than happy to do this work but I had just spent a lot of money fixing the air brakes and a bent drag link so I decided to do it myself.

Like you I searched for info on my generator and for anyone that has taken one out. I found 2; one had the slide in front and the other on the Winnebago forum was like ours. He was able to remove the front face of his rig to pull the generator out but he did talk about lifting it up. I looked inside the front of my rig, saw that everything was covered with spray foam so I decided I would lift mine up. The only manual I had for my generator was the User's Guide that comes with the rig so I found a manual online with all the part #'s.

Tools:
1 ton hydraulic transmission jack
2 12 ton jack stands
4 1 ton jack stands
creeper
several 12"x12" 2x6's to stack under the levelers

Following the directions in the manual:
1. Disconnected the negative feed at the battery.
2. Lifted the Rig using the front levelers just enough for me to slide under comfortably. Put 12 ton jack stands in place.
3. Put something under the rig to protect your driveway from spills.
4. Remove battery cables from the generator. Tape them off to avoid a short.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines. If you have two. like I do, pinch both of them off before removing them. Remove the fuel in first. There will be some dripping so have something to catch it.
6. Disconnect high voltage and control lines.

Assuming that is all there is attached on yours, you are now ready to remove it.

My generator is sitting on a square frame which is attached to the chassis with 4 bolts. I am assuming Gulf Stream did them all the same way. My transmission jack is 12"x12" so I built a jig out of 2'x6' the same size as the bottom of my generator to avoid tipping when rolling it out.

I rolled the jack and jig under the generator and lifted it to just put some pressure on it. I removed the 4 bolts and lowered the generator as low as the jack would go. The jig I made added 13" to the height of my generator so I needed to lift the front 36". Using the front levelers, the jack stands and the 2x6's, i got the height I needed and rolled the generator out. I rolled it into the garage and rested the frame on 4 jack stands. This gave me plenty of room to work on it. I removed the cover and found that the belt had shredded. Another interesting thing I found was that the engine was made by Kubota.

Like you, I replaced everything on your list except the water pump. It spun free and had no play. I also replaced the thermostat, the thermal sensor and the oil pressure sensor. I put the covers back on and put it back in the unit. I ran it under full load for two hours a day for the next few days and had no issues.

I was able to purchase all OEM parts from vendors on eBay. They had the best prices.

The only downside is I had no way to test it before installing it so I prayed a lot.

I actually enjoyed this so I would do it again if I had to. Hopefully not.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:57 PM   #3
Big Shasta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimcox View Post
Hello Big Shasta.

I saw that no one with a Generac has responded so I will give you my recent experience.

I have a 2007 Yellowstone 8386. It has an ONAN 7500 quiet diesel. The generator would run for about 10 minutes and then quit. The code I was getting from the generator was that it was too hot. This was either the temp sensor, broken fan belt or bad water pump. The shop I have my rig maintained by is more than happy to do this work but I had just spent a lot of money fixing the air brakes and a bent drag link so I decided to do it myself.

Like you I searched for info on my generator and for anyone that has taken one out. I found 2; one had the slide in front and the other on the Winnebago forum was like ours. He was able to remove the front face of his rig to pull the generator out but he did talk about lifting it up. I looked inside the front of my rig, saw that everything was covered with spray foam so I decided I would lift mine up. The only manual I had for my generator was the User's Guide that comes with the rig so I found a manual online with all the part #'s.

Tools:
1 ton hydraulic transmission jack
2 12 ton jack stands
4 1 ton jack stands
creeper
several 12"x12" 2x6's to stack under the levelers

Following the directions in the manual:
1. Disconnected the negative feed at the battery.
2. Lifted the Rig using the front levelers just enough for me to slide under comfortably. Put 12 ton jack stands in place.
3. Put something under the rig to protect your driveway from spills.
4. Remove battery cables from the generator. Tape them off to avoid a short.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines. If you have two. like I do, pinch both of them off before removing them. Remove the fuel in first. There will be some dripping so have something to catch it.
6. Disconnect high voltage and control lines.

Assuming that is all there is attached on yours, you are now ready to remove it.

My generator is sitting on a square frame which is attached to the chassis with 4 bolts. I am assuming Gulf Stream did them all the same way. My transmission jack is 12"x12" so I built a jig out of 2'x6' the same size as the bottom of my generator to avoid tipping when rolling it out.

I rolled the jack and jig under the generator and lifted it to just put some pressure on it. I removed the 4 bolts and lowered the generator as low as the jack would go. The jig I made added 13" to the height of my generator so I needed to lift the front 36". Using the front levelers, the jack stands and the 2x6's, i got the height I needed and rolled the generator out. I rolled it into the garage and rested the frame on 4 jack stands. This gave me plenty of room to work on it. I removed the cover and found that the belt had shredded. Another interesting thing I found was that the engine was made by Kubota.

Like you, I replaced everything on your list except the water pump. It spun free and had no play. I also replaced the thermostat, the thermal sensor and the oil pressure sensor. I put the covers back on and put it back in the unit. I ran it under full load for two hours a day for the next few days and had no issues.

I was able to purchase all OEM parts from vendors on eBay. They had the best prices.

The only downside is I had no way to test it before installing it so I prayed a lot.

I actually enjoyed this so I would do it again if I had to. Hopefully not.

Hope this helps.
Wow, this is just what I needed. Thank you very much. Not as much for the step by step (which I do appreciate) but more for the validation that I'm not insane for the attempt and I know my steps would be similar.

I had decided to be a pioneer even if nobody replied. After our thanksgiving camping trip to pigeon forge I'm doing it. It'll be the perfect weather in Florida.

Thanks again
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:12 AM   #4
Cowgomooo
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I have 2006 Crescendo with the 75D. Having different issues but need to remove to repair the idler pulley and might as well do the other service items then too.. Please post a folllow up with advice and tips. Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:20 AM   #5
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Well, I made one last ditch effort to get this repaired at a local Detroit Diesel shop and they were able to get it in. Just got it back yesterday. The Warranty paid 1200.00 of the total cost. I had them do air/oil/fuel filters, brushes, belts while it was out also. I paid 391.00 with my deductible and the extra items I had done. I'm very happy and it starts right up hot or cold.

Wife is THRILLED I don't have to attempt to get it out myself. She was worried I'd drop it on my head I guess....Lord knows I can't afford to get any uglier!
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:24 AM   #6
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That's great news. My wife wasn't too happy either. It's great that you have the warranty. Mine ran out and the cost of renewal was ridiculous. They were picky about who I took it to as well. Most of the shops on their list were 2 hours away. I use a local Kenworth dealer who is Cummins certified for regular maintenance and now anything else that goes wrong with the chassis or drive train. Fortunately, they are reasonable.

Have a good holiday and good luck with your motorhome
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