Supernova engine stopped on own, won't start or turnover.

[schmittm]

Started my 6372 yesterday to move and after about a minute or so of idling it stopped running. Went to turn key to start and nothing happens, just hear a clicking sound behind dash on passenger side and then I get 10 beeps for a warning. All accessories work and batteries are charged and tanks are full.
Has anyone experienced this, is there a major fuse or circuit that would go out and cause engine to stop and then not allow starter to turn or injectors to cycle. It is parked in my shop and I am trying to avoid a tow to the IH dealer. Have call into them, but of little help since I am not there and I am not a paying customer.

[atberger1]

Check the fuse on top of the starting batteries. There is a 40 amp fuse that corrodes and this prevents power going to the glow plugs. Even if it is not blown, replace it. This 75 cent fix cured my problem when it would not start or turn over. My IH dealer gave me the heads up on this.

2008 6400 Super Nova

[schmittm]

I will do that, but more concerned with the fact that it started right up as usual and then died on it's own about 2 minutes later. There is power to gauges, lights, radio etc..., but now it won't turn over. What would shut down engine and then keep it from starting? Any ideas out there.

[atberger1]

Does the "Wait to Start" light up? Here is a link to what I was talking about:

http://tow411.yuku.com/topic/75727

[schmittm]

Nope, it the glow plugs are getting power, I'm wondering if it is a different fuse or circuit, or an injection issue. Open to any suggestion.

[PieEye]

My 6400 is in the shop with the same problem now and it came about in much the same way as you described. Just shut off on me a couple of times but started back up. Made the appointment to bring it to International, started driving it up there and it died in the middle of the interstate and wouldn't start again. Had to have it towed in. They knew about the problem, verified it and ordered the parts. Took them 2+ weeks to get the harness. They installed it, took it for a test drive and it died on them again. The technician couldn’t get it going and had to have it towed back to the shop. They say they then found another wire that runs from the harness to the ECM that also got fried and they missed it the first time around. Their telling me that now its fixed for sure, but I'm still skeptical. They’re going to drive it a few more times before I go pick it up and then it’s on the road down to Destin for Spring Break.

If anyone sees a broken down 6400 on the side of the road on their way to Florida in a couple of weeks stop in for a beer! :lol:

[Georunner]

This happened to me in the middle of Wyoming last summer. My problem was the fuse on top of the batteries that went to the transmission. No juice to the tranny and it will not start or keep running. Took a while to find the problem, but it seems to be fixed now. I carry extra fuses for those on top of the battery now.

[schmittm]

I figured out the problem, it was the 40 amp fuse on top of batteries. It was corroded some, not completely blown. Cleaned it up and changed fuse, started right up. The other sign that tells you to check this fuse is the "wait to start" light does not come on with key, this means the glow plugs are not getting juice to warm up.
Thanks to fellow GS owners for responding, the International dealer was no help and had no ideas what it could be.
Make sure you carry some 40 amp fuses with you in case this happens.

[atberger1]

Glad to hear you found the problem. When I saw your original post, I immediately signed up to become a member of GSOWNERS.COM as I thought the 40 amp fuse may have been the culprit. I have used this site for a couple of years as a non-member and finally thought I should join in order to help someone out with a problem that I have experienced. I have had many of the same issues as other Super Nova owners including front cap lea(fixed with eterna bond), 3 injectors replaced, leveling jacks rebuilt and 3 replaced, just to name a few. I have not installed the rear air suspension but am leaning towards going with the Kelderman system as is recommended by my IH dealer.

Again glad to hear what seemed like a major failure turned out to be a 75 cent fix!

Tom

[Georunner]

Welcome to this forum. I think the info shared here has been invaluable and hope you find the same.

[PieEye]

Quick update. Going to pick my 6400 up today. Dealer confirmed it was the fuses on top of the battery but stated that the root cause of the issue is in fact the battery cable harness. International has issued a recall on it as was pointed out further back in this thread. They told me that simply replacing the fuses will not solve the problem long term and that sooner or later the cable with actually melt. Also worth noting, they also found a wire upstream of the battery harness that was chafed due to how it was routed. It was shorting out and allowing current back downstream which added to the melting harness problem.

Hope this helps.

Ken

[Kimbo]

My 2008 Supernova decided this past weekend would be a good time to quit working. Just as hurricane Sandy was making it's way towards the mid-Atlantic states - perfect timing. This all happened at Hershey Highmedows Campground, and I decided leaving early would be good especially with the threat of a hurricane. Ran through all of our checks and started the engine.

I hit the "retract jacks" button - another wonderfully made product thas has had a repair/replacement every year (it's like spring cleaning - spring arrives, jacks die) and watched the jokes retract. Just as the jacks finished retracting, the engine died. No shutter, or sputter, or shakes, just stopped running.

As of now, the RV is at a local International truck repair facility (Five Star International) where it awaits a repair and possibly replacement of (1) battery fuse, (2) battery harness, (3) something electrical (a part to be named at a later date).

I'll keep you posted since the facility is also dealing with the hurricane. Would be a real shame if the hurricane carried this RV away ...

[xtream1]

I went through this about 6 months ago also...started one timer and then nothing the next (just as the previopus posts state). After much research I was informe dthat our chassies are built along side the Ford 650s which have the same issues. What the problem was is that the wiring harness above the starting batteries has a modular connector in it. mine was visibally arced out inside the connector. Removed the connector and spliced the wires together directly (left the fuse system though). No more issues (factory design fault). This connnector doesn't seem to have any real necessity and is only an extra draw/failure point on an already suspect system. This wiring harness also goes to the ECM and although the dash lights up and seems like it will work, when the key is turned nothing would happen. So, lesson learned...be prepared, know where to look, carry wire splicing tools/materials/flashlight, and extra fuses in the hopes of never needing them. All in all, an easy fix though.

[ScottJ6331]

Wow! Stuck in Del Rio on a hunting trip this weekend...no power to the ECU. No wait to start, etc. The fuse for mine was on the passenger side above the 2nd fuel tank. 6 hours diagnosing this issue with a local mechanic...IH said bad ecu (phone). The local mechanic kept looking at the harness saying why is there no power to the ecu? switched the 40 amp fuse holder to 40 amp maxi type....hope this doesn't happen again.


Scott

[Nanaeve]

Our 08 6340 died as we were getting ready for a trip at our storage lot. Had it towed to local IH who replaced several of the connectors from the batterys with butt splices told us they were a comman failure. I already had the correct tool ,just needed to get the correct size splices and some spare fuses. When we had the rear air suspension put on they found the rear harness was wearing on the back spring shackle. Taped it up with electricians tape and black gorilla tape(Don't leave home without it) and good to go. I also had to run a 12v line to the rear to keep the toad battery charged, its a separate line from the 7 pin with its own switch at the batterys and fuses on both ends. Best of luck.

[Kimbo]

Just a follow up to our October 30th post. Faulty wiring harness (as posted by xtream1 and others) was the cause of our problems. Thanks to this forum and the contributors - we shared the comments to the mechanic - and the problem was found/diagnosed quickly. In fact, a truck arrived the same day as our Supernova with the same problem.

[MikeR20086372]

Just purchased my 2008 Supernova 6372 from Camping World of Eugene,Oregon this last weekend. Flew from home(Riverside Ca) to Eugene on Friday, meet up with sales rep. On Saturday,look over coach,test drive and everything is good to go,sign the papers and head back home for the 15 hour drive home around 5 pm. Stayed the night just outside of redding ca. , got up the next morning started up the motor, while I was out of the coach doing a walk around the motor just shuts down? After several phone calls to Camping World and Good Sams I turned to my I pad and this forum( been checking this out for a few months) and found this post. Luckily a truck driver had an extra couple fuses and I found the blown 40 amp fuse,changed it out and made my way home. Now to figure out the permanent fix!! I will post up my solution soon.

[RacingEndura]

I have encountered the same problem! The first time we were 500 mi from home at a Race Track, I started the coach to warm it up prior to heading home and it JUST SHUT OFF! Lucky for us we were at the Track with a bunch of gear heads! Tracked down the blown fuse over the batteries spliced in a new fuse holder and it continued to blow the fuse, with further investigation work we found that the Glow Plug Relay had a burned out post (it just fell to when it was wiggled). Went to the local auto part store grabbed a generic Ford relay and on the road we went. After the trip I went to the local IH dealer and purchased the correct relay ($89.00, it is just a Ford part $36.00 everywhere else) and I thought my problems were solved. We continued to make our way through the race season 3000 miles+ headed home from Vegas on the Freeway on ramp DEAD it just stalled! I checked the relay it appeared to be in good shape from the outside, went to the fuse the wire were hot and the fuse blown! Replaced the fuse and down the road we went! What is causing this??? What battery cable is it exactly? The one with the 2 fuse holders attached to it, or one that runs all the way to the motor? Any Ideas and pictures!!!!

Thanks
Mike

[Dbhagner]

I've had the identical issue with the power portion of the switch/fuse, replaced the factory harness, and this cured the issue as it has for everyone else on this forum.

Now I'm having a new issue. The negative side with the same style harness is causing low pressure in the injectors and crank no starts. Unless the batteries; which are new and just tested, are completely charged, the coach won't fire. We chased everything and came to this: after two minutes of it starting, one of the two white wires leaving the negative harness, which leads to the ECM, gets yellow hot. Thankfully all of this is happening in my barn and McCarthys Tire in Baltimore is three miles away; their manager Mike is the best. Their computer shows no fails and no code issues. We can't seem to locate what is causing the ground wire to burn. The harness isn't burning, it's from the negative harness back. Puzzled.

McCarthys installed the ACE system last month, with a coolant change in the chassis and generator, a tire rotation and balance, a new tranny filter, a new right rear ABS sensor, installed a TSPerformance chip, and other odds and ends for $3500.

I've done my research on this site and thanks to TexaTC and his pictures, I can tell you, Mike did a phenomenal job on the installation. Fabricated a ton of well engineered - I'm an engineer, my wife is literally a rocket scientist- components to hide the compressor from road debris, upgraded the required wire and heat shrunk everything, all around just as pleased as I can be.

My highest endorsement for anyone in the mid Atlantic for McCarthys Tire in Dundalk Md. Yelp, Dundalk...

To hell with that. My highest endorsement to anyone having issues with these coaches. I was about to drive to Dallas to get my air system installed where Texas TC had his done...

[clarkeishere]

Not only is there a problem with the 40 amp fuse but you might check the factory connector for the ground at the batteries. I have had it go bad. If it is burnt it will not start. Just wire it direct with a butt end splice or if your in a bind use a red wire nut.
good luck

[RacingEndura]

dbhagner, can you post some pic of the install of the compressor and aired!
Thanks

[omegaman67]

Is there a specific part number for the rewiring? I have spliced - soldered the areas that have stranded my coach but would be interested in replacement part !.

Scott

Texas

[[email protected]]

Plead for help; I have a super nova sitting in my drive way with the 40 amp fuse that keeps burning up. I have replaced it several times, is there a solution to the problem? I noticed that the wire gets extremely hot, would replacing it with a heavier wire fix the issue? the harness was replaced several years ago with the recall.

[Rvmonkey]

I had this happen on our 6400. It was a connector under the frame in front got loose and melted the connector. Cut it out and hard wired and been good since. Mine was right by starter had 2 wires in it.

[Birddog]

My GS does the same thing just shuts off . Found the red 30 amp blow once with a do no start not on . Also had the 30 amp black fuse blow at a different time . Do I need to change these over to a 40 amp?

[Birddog]

My GS does the same thing just shuts off . Found the red 30 amp blow once with a do no start not on . Also had the 30 amp black fuse blow at a different time . Do I need to change these over to a 40 amp?

[JohnnyAfrica]

Yes...replace that Fuse block if you have not done it...also had problem with Weatherpack Connectors in engine compartment. There is 3 position WP plug connector that controls the Injectors & will shut the engine down if it goes bad. There a big bunch of wires on the driver side just under the plastic weather shield, check the heavier gauge wires...the plastic connectors go bad.

[Birddog]

Thanks JohnnyAfrica .. will check it out

[Gemini John]

Hi guys. My lead out of this problem was finally solved by splitting the battery power circuit that has fuses to 2 50 amp circuit breakers. The injector heaters are in this circuit. That's what fries the fuses. Too much amp draw. I thought I fixed this with 2 30 amp breakers, no more blown fuses but it would die 1 to 2 minutes after cold start. Once injectors were warm, circuit breakers were fine. Once my smart diesel mechanic and myself did old fashioned amp draw tests, the culprit was solved, for me at least. Even a great International dealer couldn't figure it out. That's what worked for me. 22k on the 08 Supernova, will be pulling a 30 foot trailer this year. Guess I'll find the next weak point. Still love how it drives. Hope this helps. Remember the amp draw, today's lesson. John

[Gemini John]

As some one else noted there is a connector in the harness near the starter that melted in side the connector and let me sit along the highway. Bush fix got me home but we ran a second complete power wire from the battery to the engine fusebox reducing the load. Terrible location for the connector next to the starter power terminal.

[Birddog]

Took Gulf Stream to the international dealer. The problem was not building oil pressure after running , engine was warm and oil was leaking by the the injectors
Had to replace all injectors , it’s important to keep the oil clean and changed $8,ooo later.

[pwerwagn]

Slightly different issue, but well known on 6.0's. I had it happen to my VT365 last summer. The ICP on the passenger valve cover goes bad, and will kill the engine while running. You can unplug the ICP and leave it unplugged with no harm, it will operate on a table inside the ECM. Unplug it, and it should start right up if it or the pigtail is bad. If you have and MP8, you have to unplug the MP8 from the pigtail as well. The MP8 being plugged in, but it unplugged from the ICP, will not start/run.

The pigtails and ICP's are known to go bad. Super easy fix, and lots of people have put thousands of miles on one with the ICP unplugged (I finished a 4K+ trip with it unplugged, no issues other than a CEL).

Just another quick thing to check if you have a dead SN or 6.0 ford on the side of the road!

Jeff

[[email protected]]

Fellow Supernova owners, I own a Supernova 6331 (34ft) model and I'm the same issue but I'm having difficulty using the information in this thread. For example, the fuse holders next to or near the starting battery are mentioned on several of the responses but for the life of me I can't locate them on my RV. I did find a 40 amp fuse in a holder in the area of the right front wheel well but I don't know if this is the same fuse or not. I've checked all of the Weatherpack connectors in the engine compartment which are all good. Here's a recap of the symptoms. When I turn the key on everything seems normal accept for the Wait to Start light which is very inconsistent. Sometimes it comes on momentarily, sometimes not at all and sometimes comes on and doesn't go off. I am hearing the clicking coming from the passenger side fuse panel but not hearing the injectors clicking. Several of the forum responses don't have complete information so I would really appreciate if contributors to this thread filled in some of the details surrounding this issue, especially if you have a model 6331. Thanks so much.

[clarkeishere]

There will be a fuse holder at one of your starting batteries. You might find that the fuse holder is burnt or the fuse is loose. There is a large white wire for the ground and a large red wire for the fuse. This is one of 3 places that you can have a problem. If you would like to call me I would be happy to walk you through this. I can be reached any time before 9:30 pm cst. at 318.949.4969.

[clarkeishere]

Give me a call anytime before 9:30 cst at 318.949.4969 I can walk you through this. There are a few places to check.

[Darbgnik]

Hey guys, I figured I would add to this thread as well.

Had a no start, no crank condition, as it died while idling for a few minutes. Went through all the locations mentioned in this thread to try and figure it out, as the symptoms were the same. No wait to start light, no crank, and a faint click under the passenger side dash.

But sadly, that wasn't the issue. However, once I dug into the wiring I noticed this connector was burnt. According to the interwebs, that is a common problem . This is the engine interface connector . Connects the chassis harness to the engine harness before the IDM.

The online technician said they normally cut the connector right out , and wire them together . Crimp fitting to put wires together , crimp , solder and shrink seal each connection and you will never have a problem again there. This connector was located between the engine valve cover and the brake master cylinder. You cant tell in the picture, but the wires were red, purple, purple.

I cut it out and spliced it though, and the truck fired right up. But amazingly, not only did it fire up, it idles more even and quieter than any time I've owned the truck. I'm guessing the failing connection was causing the injectors to be erratic, or some such thing. Anyways, thought I'd add to the knowledge pile.

Link to the online mechanic thread I read:

https://www.justanswer.com/medium-and-heavy-truck/b9ufx-jeremy-looking-idm-relay-location.html

[Vinnie]

So, we got stranded again this past week. Similar problem to those listed above. Engine suddenly shut down as we were cruising on I-8; system tried to recover initially, and transmission downshifted to try to maintain speed on cruise control. Ended up getting towed to El Centro, CA where she once again sits.

Have full crank but no start; gauges cycle properly and "wait to start" lights up; engine cranks normally but no life. All of the suspect connections mentioned above were already cut-out and direct spliced and 40-amp fuse was replaced with self-resetting circuit breaker so engine would restart if it died during warm-up idle. No other blown fuses found. Local shop (not International) can't seem to connect with ECM through data port and was not able to find problem. He suggested getting it to dealer. Closest International dealer is in Yuma (60 odd miles), and they do not want to work on a motorhome.

Anyone know of good shop in the Yuma, AZ area? Other choices would be to have it hauled to Phoenix (same dealer chain as Yuma), San Diego (closest "big city") or maybe up to Las Vegas?