Water pump and hot water heater ignitor issues

[smittythtbear]

Hello to all!

I am having trouble with my water pump and my ignitor on my hot water heater. Both stopped working the same day/time. The fuse panel only lists a fuse for the water pump. There is no power going to this panel. I checked it with my multi-meter as well as switching a wire from a 12v appliance that was working.

The pump got wet during a plumbing repair. Not soaked, just wet on the outside. This is the same day that HWH ignitor stopped working. Are these items on the same circuit? How do I check the HWH to see what is going on? I can follow directions pretty well - electricity has always been magic to me, but I know that basics.

I have a 2004 Gulfstream Friendship G7 with a Suburban SWD 10DE hot water heater. As for as I know, no work has been done on the HWH - I have had the rig for 9 months, upgrading from a 1990 Southwind.

Can I just use the electrical side of the HWH without fixing the ignitor? I think I have to replace the element, but I am tired of going without hot water and walking to the bathhouse for all my showers, etc. I am a full-timer and desperate! :(

Thanks!

Susan

[GStream40]

Did your water pump work after switching the hot wire from the appliance?

If not, you might want to check the ground/negative wire that go to a grounding block that is located by removing the refrigeraor access/vent cover on the side of the coach. It is usually mounted at the opening of the side cover. There are many white wires going to this block and sometimes if terminal screw(s) are not tightened a wire will come out/loose and the units that it goes to will stop working because the circuit is not complete.
I had this happen in our coach, the ground wire for the 12v for kitchen slide came out of the terminal block, our lights, range ignitor and range hood fan/lights all stopped working at the same time.
It took me about four hours to find out what had happened. I reinstalled the ground wire and tightened all the terminal screws, all is well.

I believe ALL the ground wires for the 12v house batteries go to this grounding block.


Ron

[smittythtbear]

I looked for the grounding block, and found a set of white 12v wires going to screw terminals. All of these were snug. I checked the HWH and pushed the reset buttons, and...the ignitor worked and the hwh started heating, then, it turned itself off. But, the pilot light indicator inside is not lit. What do I look for now? :|

[GStream40]

Sorry I took so long to reply. I guess it is time to look for a good RV repair tech. It is really hard to diagnose without being able to put hands on the unit to run tests on the circuits.

Sorry I couldn't be any help.

Ron

[RayChez1]

If your water heater is not working with AC heating element, THEN why don't you use the propane side to heat the water. On my inside panel when I turn the pilot switch on the red light will stay red until the pilot lights up. Then the red light will turn off, which means the pilot light is on.

Now as to the heating element on the AC side, you might need a new heating element.

Not sure about the problem with the water pump if it is not the fuse in the out side compartment below the drivers seat. Water pumps are DC operated as far as I know.

[smittythtbear]

Thanks for all the info. We are just going to take it to the local Camping World. The propane does not work, and neither does the electric.

[Timothy]

Your Suburban water heater should have a small rocker switch that has to be turned on for it to work on electric, this switch is on the outside of the water heater, take the cover off and it should be on the left hand lower corner.

[psgoodale]

I looked for the grounding block, and found a set of white 12v wires going to screw terminals. All of these were snug. I checked the HWH and pushed the reset buttons, and...the ignitor worked and the hwh started heating, then, it turned itself off. But, the pilot light indicator inside is not lit. What do I look for now? :|


Some hot water heaters/furnaces have a flame rod. When the main flame comes on there is an electrical pass from the flame rod, through the flame, then to ground, to prove there is flame. If the voltage doesn't complete this circuit, it shuts off the burner. Usually clean the carbon soot off the sensor and check for corroded connections. When a main flame comes on briefly then shuts off this is usually the case. I am not familiar with your particular system but a schematic would be helpful to determine the sequence of operation. Could there be a water pressure sensor as a safety? Perhaps a water level sensor? I imagine there must be a safety interlock to prevent the water heater from operation if there is not enough water in it or a bad sensor. Some heaters have a continuity sensor to determine if there is water and they need to be cleaned. Have you gotten this fixed?