new owner of a 1992 Sun stream cummigs diesel pusher

[Washington travler]

I believe its a 5.9 tubo diesel although it does look larger. 61,000 miles. need to do maintenance.

What are the oil filter numbers?

Synthetic or rotella?

Owner left filters in side compartment but diesel filter looks real small like a car filter.

Read all posts on class a pertinent to my coach but no love. Have to order some parts from amazon like front key but need to up order to 25 bucks or more. Roof auto light bulbs have a led replacement. Head light have a led replacement?

Jim

[xwhyz1959]

Greetings! And congratulations on your new ride! I picked up a 92 SV myself not too long ago with 66K on the clock. Previous owner left a lot of good things in it for me, a box of empty filter boxes with numbers, and receipts. These are WIX filter numbers, and I think you need four different filters.


Oil filter 51607
Fuel/Water 33357
Oil Filter 51268
Fuel filter 33358


Why 2 oil filters on the receipt, I don't know. I haven't performed the service yet, so I don't know if the 5.9 takes 2 oil filters. Maybe you can ask your parts guy.

[Washington travler]

Did some research and found a few things the 5.9 have problems with fuel pressure from the lift pump and a dowel pin in the timing cover. Found them at
https://www.genosgarage.com/tech_info. The fuel lift pump seems to be the most troublesome. So I am going to put on a fuel pressure gauge.

Keep in touch as I get to know this old beast.

[CoachStreamr]

Did some research and found a few things the 5.9 have problems with fuel pressure from the lift pump and a dowel pin in the timing cover. Found them at
https://www.genosgarage.com/tech_info. The fuel lift pump seems to be the most troublesome. So I am going to put on a fuel pressure gauge.

Keep in touch as I get to know this old beast.


I read about the Dowel Pin issue (and that fix) as well when we first got our Coach last year (w/ 5.7 12V).


When we took our Coach to Cummins NW (Oly) for maintenance and some repairs, I forgot to ask about that to see what they say. We had hoses, belts, filter including that big expensive air filter, chrome tail exhaust pipe replaced, exhaust manifold and turbo replaced. Radiator flush and new fluid, oil change, shocks replaced, parking brake adjusted and overall safety inspection. Probably would have been a good time to do that Dowel Pin fix.



Are you going to do that Dowel Pin fix?


The fuel lift pump seems to be the most troublesome. So I am going to put on a fuel pressure gauge.


Their doc says:



While the addition of a fuel pressure gauge isn’t necessary on the ‘89-‘98 12-valve engines with the
mechanical fuel delivery pump, we can offer some tips should you want to install a gauge.









.

[Sundancer268]

I got the following information direct from Cummins.
LF3806 is the oil filter recommended for your engine, the total system capacity is 16.3 liters [17.2 qt].
Thank you for contacting Cummins.
Miranda
Filtration Technical Assistance
If we have misunderstood the information in your communication or you have additional questions please feel free to respond to our support staff by e-mailing [email protected] ([email protected]) or call Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. CST at 1-800-22FILTER (1-800-223-4583). If you are located outside of North America, you can reach us at 615-871-5100.
Visit us at www.cummins.com (http://www.cummins.com/) or www.cumminsfiltration.com (http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/)

[xwhyz1959]

I read about the Dowel Pin issue (and that fix) as well when we first got our Coach last year (w/ 5.7 12V).


When we took our Coach to Cummins NW (Oly) for maintenance and some repairs, I forgot to ask about that to see what they say. We had hoses, belts, filter including that big expensive air filter, chrome tail exhaust pipe replaced, exhaust manifold and turbo replaced. Radiator flush and new fluid, oil change, shocks replaced, parking brake adjusted and overall safety inspection. Probably would have been a good time to do that Dowel Pin fix.



Are you going to do that Dowel Pin fix?





Their doc says:












.


Holy cow!! What did all that set you back? How many miles on this at the time?

[Washington travler]

I read a little about the fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump. Seems they do not specifically recommend gauge due to injector pump overheating but the general theory is more pressure the better to a point. Several people wire a electric in series to increase pressure due to turbo requirements and cooling of injector pump. I will probably go that route with a fuel pressure gauge. Small expense to not get stranded or premature wear due to low fuel pressure.

The dowel pin deal really worries me, Did some research last night it is only from 1-2 percent of coaches have an undersized pin. May just to have piece of mind do the fix. I looked at some of the devastating results. I do not believe the motor coach are that susceptible to it falling as they are driven much different that trucks. IE no hot rodding or quick stop and starts.

Quite a good inspection. How much does Cummings charge per hour of labor? Need to run mine in if I can afford it. I am capable of doing my own work but it is much easier to let the pros do it.

Thanks for the info:

Jim

[Washington travler]

I got the following information direct from Cummins.
LF3806 is the oil filter recommended for your engine, the total system capacity is 16.3 liters [17.2 qt].
Thank you for contacting Cummins.
Miranda
Filtration Technical Assistance
If we have misunderstood the information in your communication or you have additional questions please feel free to respond to our support staff by e-mailing [email protected] ([email protected]) or call Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. CST at 1-800-22FILTER (1-800-223-4583). If you are located outside of North America, you can reach us at 615-871-5100.
Visit us at www.cummins.com (http://www.cummins.com/) or www.cumminsfiltration.com (http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/)

Thanks for the info. Did not know there was Cummings service center in Olympia. Just learning.

[CoachStreamr]

Thanks for the info. Did not know there was Cummings service center in Olympia. Just learning.


Yes, that's where I tooks ours. The RV hour rate is a little higher than the commercial truck rate (they have to work around all the stuff in the back bedroom) but you can join that cummins club and get 10% off labor and parts.. really helps and joined is cheap, it is a annual thing. They can sign you up there during your visit. I dealt with William, Service Supervisor



It's also one reason I preferred a Cummins vs a CAT. Over the last several years, we looked at so many RV's. We were patient and waited for the right one for us (and deal).




.

[CoachStreamr]

Holy cow!! What did all that set you back? How many miles on this at the time?


Bought w/60K from 2nd owner (since 2004). He came from Nevada to Washington a few years back, he had Pac brake installed and also a radiator cooling sprinkler system installed. He towed a lot and in the hot climates going up elevation, would run pretty warm. That sprinkler took care of that he says. Have all the records going back including from the 1st owner who paid $176K new, from the Invoice. Second Owner is one of the top guys with Homeland Security / Air Marshals here in Western Washington (I confirmed this before meeting). Great guy, they bought their retirement house on the Washington Coast last year and no longer will be traveling with a RV, thought we paid a fair price, taking in account the service I wanted done. Second owner did updates that we would have done - replaced carpet with laminate through out, custom cabinet up front with flatscreen and the one in the bedroom. Newer Toyos (3-4 years old) all around. He added the Travel'r Dish and other things.


We bought the Coach and offered/paid with many of these things in mind. Our budget was $35K but we offered/paid less than 1/2 of that for the Coach.



I wanted to replace all belts, all hoses, oil change, radiator flush etc. That was around
$1500-$1600 if I remember correctly.



The Propane tank mount was cracked so I thought that could be fixed but in the end, no one would fix it (citing liability issues). Had to replace that and it's a big tank. That was one thing I didn't price correct, thought it would be $200 or so - was more like $1400 to replace with a new Manchester tank (another company in Oly next to Cummins did that). Regulator was replaced as well (original setup had 2 regulators, replaced with a high capacity regulator) and I had them clean up /paint that bin where the tank is located (while the tank was removed).


Cummins did replace all 4 shocks (2 were hanging) and I got new old stock off ebay.


When I picked the Coach up, the new belt(s) was noisy, they thought that would settle down. Two weeks later, still very noisy so I brought it back. The tensioner was replaced and at that time the same tech that did the inspection the first time found a blowout in the exhaust manifold. Removing that, there was also a blowout in the turbo, I looked at both parts and both blowouts were clear. They covered the tensioner and labor at no cost and we paid about $2400 (parts / labor) for the new exhaust manifold and turbo kit (this Coach has a exhaust temp gauge so they drilled for that as well).


I priced the manifold and turbo kit for parts (various places) myself and they weren't cheap just to buy the parts - I think they were very fair with us.


I spoke to Spartan (several times) to get the right coolant system hoses, there is more than one configuration for our specific engine. That did take a little time and I landed up ordering some of these hoses myself to save money (no need for Cummins markup). I have some new extra hose(s) left and I have the old hoses that I will keep for backup (and will keep in the basement storage).



Shocks were about $225 for all 4 and I bought some hoses. Cummins didn't have any problem with me supplying parts for them to install when and if needed. I dealt with William


She runs so smooth and quiet now.


I highly recommend Cummins NW in Oly, dealing with William.


Still want to have the Allison transmission fluid changed/serviced but I am going to do the fluid analysis first thru JG Labs


https://www.jglubricantservices.com/online_store.html

Cummins could do that but I was goign to use Brazel's RV Performance in Centralia (Highly rated) but may go to the actual Allison Distributor in Kent (I think it was Kent), seem to be a little cheaper for actual TranSynd (Brazel's uses another approved one), which is what I want to convert to in our Allison MD3060.


Also, Cummins doesn't do any hydraulics there, I have one leveler sticking so I will probably have Brazel's look at that. Cummins can do all the other Chassis stufff though, they tracked down and repairs a couple of leaks in our air-ride system (during 1st visit).


Thinking of having a Safe-T Plus Steering Stablizer installed with Brazel's unless I select the Roadmaster reflex, Roadmaster factory is down south about a 1 1/2 - 2 hour drive only.


Brazel's could look at/repair the sticking leveler, do transmission service and Safe-T Plus or Roadmaster.


.







.

[CoachStreamr]

I also wanted to let you know how Cummins' shops work, they prioritize commercial clients (trucks), they have to. RV's are not the priority, at least at this location.

Their Spokane and Portland locations have RV only bays as they are Cummins Coach Care Motorhome Service Centers (https://cumminsengines.com/coach-care-motorhome-service-centers). They are larger shops than the Oly one is. Oly does have a couple very experienced tech/mechanics though.



We were flexible and could leave the Coach there. Was frustrating a couple times, a Cummins recall came in and they had to do several trucks over a 2-3 day period.


If a trucker rolling through town has an issue, he gets priority.


Keep that in mind and if you can be flexible and go over the quote(s) with William, I think they will be fair.


.

[Washington travler]

Thanks for all the info and contact information. I have not found much wrong with mine so far except hydraulic jacks and interior update. Of course I want all fluids replaced and inspection done. Sounds as if you got a real deal on your coach. I did not do too bad on mine either. Appreciate the updated info on Cummings priorities. Have to make sure I have other items to do.

[xwhyz1959]

My list of things to do is rather extensive myself. I wasn't working on this long, before it occurred to me that this is more of a restoration project, than it is a refurbishing. Cosmetically the outside is decent, needs a little work though. The inside was immaculate! Right now my list consists of the following...


Complete fluids replacement and flush where applicable.
Replace all hoses, including brake line hoses.
Aluminum wheels.
Roof re-coat with Dicor Cool Seal
Winegard in motion satellite, ( stole a RT2000 on Ebay new in box for $799)
Replaced bathroom skylight and fan
Replaced coach fan
6 new tires
Hour meter for generator
New shocks
Recharge coach AC



Problems I have encountered so far include...


Leveling pump has internal short in motor. I took it apart and blew all the carbon dust out of it, and couldn't find anything obvious to the naked eye. Going to remove it again and take it to a local motor re-builder and see if they can repair it.



Rear AC unit won't run under generator only power, but will on shore power. Puzzling.

Previous owner installed another switch in the electrical compartment that I have yet to trace and determine it's purpose.
I have a heavy gauge white wire unattached in the coach battery compartment that I have to determine it's purpose also.
Cruise control switch not functioning.


I'm really not anticipating using this until next year sometime. I don't want to roll until I have it all up to snuff.


According to my documents, we have a Spartan EC2000 chassis. Here's a parts manual I found online that may apply to us in some areas.



http://truckroadservice.com/barth_attachments/EC-2242-Maint-Manual.pdf

[CoachStreamr]

Rear AC unit won't run under generator only power, but will on shore power. Puzzling.



Our front A/C won't run on gen, it pops the 30amp breaker. Both run on shore and the rear on generator. I'm been advised to replace the generator's 30amp breaker, they can become 'weak'. I will replace that eventually.



Cruise control switch not functioning.





Our Coach's Cruise doesn't function either. Seems this is common for the Eco Cruise (stops functioning). At this time, I don't find it a big deal.


According to my documents, we have a Spartan EC2000 chassis. Here's a parts manual I found online that may apply to us in some areas.

http://truckroadservice.com/barth_attachments/EC-2242-Maint-Manual.pdf


Ours is a EC2000 series as well.



If you call Spartan and give your VIN, they can provide pages as well, maybe the full download. I was provided the cooling system pages with handwritten info about the different hose designs that were available, it's how I was able to order the proper hoses in advance of the old ones being removed from Cummin.





.

[xwhyz1959]

My front AC is on my 20A breaker.

[Washington travler]

I am doing the roof right now. Its been 100+ degrees quite a chore. 2 days in. Probably 3 more days. Today is supposed to be cooler. I do have to figure out the hydraulic pump do you have a manual ? Spartan sent me the manual for my motor home but quality is poor. I still need to do all fluids. I do not know about cruise too windy of a road home to use it. My generator uses the 30, 20 amp breaker I have no idea which ac is on which.

currently in progress

hydraulic pump/levelers have power to solenoid but no switch to on.
pex conversion.
Ac are new and both work, Yeah !!!
reroof
Do not know about tires all look perfect but are more than 7 years old. Probably change them.
Fuel pressure gauge and trans temp gauge.
Kitchen counter top.
Test heating system.
AC check any idea if it is r 134 or old 12?
Check turbo for leaks or gauge. Found a leak turbo to fresh air
Treat tank for algae.
Inverter in the front replacement.
Hot water tank cleaning and anode replacement

the list goes on
as soon as I figure how to send links, files and pictures from my computer or if offsite links are require will send some documents .

Hey CoachStreamr what part of Washington do you live ? I am in the Columbia River Gorge in Klickitat .

[Sundancer268]

[QUOTE=CoachStreamr;he had Pac brake installed.[/QUOTE]


CoachStreamr, could I trouble you to take some pictures of the PacBrake install? I am going to install one in my coach and would like to duplicate a professional install if possible. I am especially interested in how they mounted the Brake in the Exhaust Pipe and how and where they installed the Throttle Position Switch. Thanks, Ed

[Sundancer268]

My front AC is on my 20A breaker.


That 20 Amp is the Breaker in the Electrical Panel, he is popping the Breaker mounted on the Generator itself. They do go bad over time, I replaced both of mine on the Generator in the past, not hard to do.

[xwhyz1959]

Which PacBrake model are you using? I'm very interested in this myself!

[Sundancer268]

Which PacBrake model are you using? I'm very interested in this myself!
If you are asking me, here is my correspondence with PacBrake.




Hello Edward
All I have is a inline brake which requires welding. And on the 5.9 Cummins the Exhaust Valves need to be changed .
HERE ARE THE PART NUMBERS FOR THE SET UP
C40116 Exhaust brake
C11440 3’ Mounting Group
C10211 Control group
C13060E Allison wiring group
C14010 Heavy Duty Exhaust Valve Springs

Regards

Jim Foster , Insidesales/Technical Supervisor

Subject: Re: New submission from Sales & Customer Service

Jim, did you get my last E-Mail reply I sent? The Pipe Circumference is 9 1/2 inches translating if I did my math correctly to about 3 inches in diameter.
Edward
What does your pipe do after the Turbo?
What size is your pipe?

Regards

Jim Foster , Insidesales/Technical Supervisor


There probably is, but I don’t want to go there if I can avoid it. I do not know how to weld and the direct connect would help me avoid that problem as I could clamp the downstream connection. Thanks, Ed

Edward
Is there room for an Inline Exhaust brake?

Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 12:17 PM
To: Jim FosterSubject: RE: New submission from Sales & Customer Service

No existing Brake on the coach and no evidence one was ever installed.

Hello Edward
Just to be sure , you don’t already have an Exhaust brake on your coach already as we were online with the factory then.

Regards

Jim Foster , Insidesales/Technical Supervisor

file:///C:\Users\Ed\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cli p_image001.jpg (http://www.pacbrake.com/)

T 604.882.0183 | F 604.882.9278 | E [email protected]| www.pacbrake.com (http://www.pacbrake.com/)
19594 96th Avenue, Surrey BC Canada V4N 4C3 | Toll Free 1.800.663.0096
file:///C:\Users\Ed\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cli p_image002.png (https://twitter.com/pacbrake/)file:///C:\Users\Ed\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cli p_image003.png (https://www.facebook.com/pacbrake/) file:///C:\Users\Ed\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cli p_image004.png (https://www.instagram.com/pacbrake/)

Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:38 PM
To: insidesales
Subject: New submission from Sales & Customer Service
Truck Info
Year

1995
Make

Spartan
Model

EC-2242
Engine

Cummins B5.9
Transmission

Automatic
Product / Question
Pacbrake Product

Exhaust Brake
Question

I am looking for an Exhaust Brake for my Motor Home. It is mounted on a 1995 Spartan EC-2242 Chassis with a Cummins B5.9 engine S/N: 45061157 and the Allison MD-3060 Transmission S/N: 6510026852 Part #: 29519064 94E11 with the World II controls. The Turbo Charger is a Holset WH1C S/N: C043944B Assy: 3335302, Cust: 39057 with the Exhaust pipe exiting to the front of the coach at a slight offset angle to the driver’s side of I am guessing 2 degrees to 6 degrees. The pipe circumference is approximately 9 ½ inches. I do have Air over Hydraulic brakes so an air supply is readily available. Do you make a turbo connected Exhaust brake to fit my application? Will it interface directly with the Allison to force the programed downshifts? Thank you.

[CoachStreamr]

CoachStreamr, could I trouble you to take some pictures of the PacBrake install? I am going to install one in my coach and would like to duplicate a professional install if possible. I am especially interested in how they mounted the Brake in the Exhaust Pipe and how and where they installed the Throttle Position Switch. Thanks, Ed
Which PacBrake model are you using? I'm very interested in this myself!


The Pac Brake on this Coach does also down shift the Allison.


Attached are pics I took last fall. I was focusing on the turbo and exhaust manifold/temp sensor, not the Pac Brake. I probably could get under there and take better pics.


The pics were taken after the first Turbo Kit Install. Cummins initially installed Turbo Kit #3802777 and it should be #3802779, the wastegate is what is different but it messed with the idle the MD3060 sometimes didn't want to shift out of Neutral due to higher idle. Is the reason I found out they installed the wrong kit. Someone mixed-up the engine's SN last 2 digits (had 50 vs the correct 20) of the engine's serial number so the Turbo Kit for a 210hp was initially installed. Cummins swapped the entire Turbo Kit and correct one for this engine (230hp). I guess just the wastegate could have been swapped but I wanted the correct Turbo Kit with the model number stamped. They also greased up that accelerator linkage /idle adjustment area. Haven't had that Allison issue since.


Before I even contacted them about the wrong kit, I verified part numbers myself at: https://parts.cummins.com/#/esn-entry/main

You can use the link above, enter your engine's serial number and get some interesting data on your engine.




It helped, but their tech still investigated and sure enough, they made a mistake. Pays to be on top of things yourself as well.

The switch looks similiar to this one but doesn't have the wording on it.


https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/C18053-2.jpg

[CoachStreamr]

Hey CoachStreamr what part of Washington do you live ? I am in the Columbia River Gorge in Klickitat .


Olympia / Lacey


Cummins is in Portland, closer to you. They also warehouse the parts, my manifold and turbo(s) where shipped to Oly from down there.


.

[CoachStreamr]

That 20 Amp is the Breaker in the Electrical Panel, he is popping the Breaker mounted on the Generator itself. They do go bad over time, I replaced both of mine on the Generator in the past, not hard to do.


Yes, I have to look up the part number so I can replace (it's a Generac NP-66G). I may replace both as well while I'm at it. I have not even researched that yet.


Where did you purchase your breakers and do you have the part numbers?


.

[Sundancer268]

You are lucky, all PacBrake has now for my engine is a universal 4" unit. I have to cut my Exhaust pipe and weld two 4" to 3" adapters in to mount the unit. So far I am not happy with my options as the Transmission Dip Stick Tube limits the available space and this 4" brake will not fit close to the Turbo so I am looking for any other options. Do you know where they mounted the Idle detection switch? You say you have to crawl under there to look at this setup, On my coach, all I have to do is lift the bed, makes servicing so much easier. It is amazing what a different floor plan will do to accessibility of certain items. I love my engine access but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed

[Sundancer268]

Yes, I have to look up the part number so I can replace mine. I may replace both as well while I'm at it. I have not even researched that yet.


Where did you purchase your breakers and do you have the part numbers?


.
Sorry, it was several years ago that I replaced them. You do not have to use the official Onan part, when I removed the breakers, I just looked them up from the original manufacturers part number and they were, if I remember right about 1/3 less than from Onan.

[CoachStreamr]

You are lucky, all PacBrake has now for my engine is a universal 4" unit. I have to cut my Exhaust pipe and weld two 4" to 3" adapters in to mount the unit. So far I am not happy with my options as the Transmission Dip Stick Tube limits the available space and this 4" brake will not fit close to the Turbo so I am looking for any other options.


Maybe an outlet/dealer has new old stock? I have the invoice for this Coach's Pac Brake, done in Nevada over 12 years ago.


Do you know where they mounted the Idle detection switch?


I don't.. I'm curious though since I had an issue after Cummins installed the first incorrect turbo and I was having a issue with the Allison (code indicated high idle). Perhaps, provide me more info and/or what this looks like and I will take a look.


You say you have to crawl under there to look at this setup, On my coach, all I have to do is lift the bed, makes servicing so much easier. It is amazing what a different floor plan will do to accessibility of certain items. I love my engine access but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed


Well, my wife has the bedroom decked out, big deal to move things out to lift the bed due to her decorating (hard to explain). Great engine access from under the bed but it's what all around the bed (some for easy access for our 2 dogs), 12 pillows etc. We essentially use the Coach as a tiny home as it's parked next to our house, we use it year around, more space, more fun. We have a privacy on our property and are creating kind of a RV camping out type of environment for our Coach here. Of course when we take it to Cummins, I have to take all of that out.



I think I took those pics from the driver's rear most bay (only house batteries and the big air filter in that large bay) and there is plenty of room to get my head and hand in there to take pics. Even getting under is not a problem, plenty of clearance for me even with the air out (though the rear tires are on custom made pads with 3/4" rubber stall pads on top).


but hate the Furnace and Hot Water system access. Thank you for the pictures and have a great weekend. Ed


Do you have a manifold water system? I'm actually pretty impressed with the layout/access of this model's system. I've already replaced the furnace (old one's motor went out, I still have the old one and will replace the motor eventually for back up). BTW, new Suburban furnaces have much more plastic vs 90's models.



Plumbing lines seem to be easy access on this model.


We did have water leak last fall and one of the fittings under the kitchen sink cracked/was cracked. It was for the 2nd little refrig/ice maker which doesn't work anyways - I turned off that line at the manifold. While investigating the cracked fitting, I discovered a flaw probably in Gulf Streams (and other brands?) in this era (maybe for the manifold systems?) I most concerned about those copper elbows/90 degress with the knobs - had one knob fitting crack now


It appears to be polybutylene plumbing (commonly referred as PB?) and Vanguard was forced to abandon using that plastic after S.C. Shell Oil Co.'s decision to stop making PB resin for pipe.


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/cracked-plumbing-fitting-help-identify-and-repair-tips-367395-2.html#post3916028

A typical Polybutylene system is found in homes, hotels, multi-family housing, and mobile homes built between 1978 and 1996. Polybutylene was an inexpensive alternative to PEX and copper. It was much easier to install and one-third the cost of copper piping to purchase, and nearly half the cost of PEX. You may want to research that for future reference.



.




.

[Washington travler]

Olympia / Lacey


Cummins is in Portland, closer to you. They also warehouse the parts, my manifold and turbo(s) where shipped to Oly from down there.


.

My nephew in law lives in Lacey.(he is in army) Wife was just up there for mini family reunion a week ago. I moved here from Texas to retire almost wound up in Port Angeles. Now I am on the edge river next to the desert. Not much rain just blue skies. Read how to do attachments turns out file is too large "PDF from spartan."

Thanks for all the links and info these were all questions I was wondering about. Poly pipes with plastic poly fitting is a receipt for disaster. Owned a few properties with them in went to metal joints and sold properties. Did get the poly settlement but lost more than payment.

I love older things just built much better.

[CoachStreamr]

Let me know if you are hunting for other things in regards to these Coaches. I have a gmail draft (and backed up to drive) with lots of links, by topic, for the things I researched.



I may even just start a thread one day and list all my sorted links. I'm still adding to this though.


I think GS gets a bad rap many times on forums but I'm impressed with it including the electric and plumbing systems. The last owner already replaced the refrig in 2014, I need to sanitize the washer and do something with the 2nd little mini-fridge/ice maker, want to replace it but those things are expensive. Second owner upgraded the inverter/battery charger.


The one thing I wish it had was solid wood cabinets but I knew the moment I first saw the interior pics of the listing that my wife would want to buy it. She never liked the darker color cabinets in most RV's (except maybe cherry). Her favorite color is cream with gold accents and this Coach has it. The cabinet doors are pressed with that plastic like (or other) covering, easy to keep clean but the edges can separate and/or crack. Wife absolutely loves the interior.


I wanted the chassis (She wanted the interior) and Spartan was on the top of my list. I wanted the interior height and amazed this Coach is 6' 9", most in the 90's seem to be less than 6"6". I wanted to avoid a slide in the 90's era Coaches since I read issues with these initial designs/implementations, I wanted a wide body and straight though walk way from front to back (through the center), no L-shape cabinet/counter in the kitchen. I think this makes the interior feel spacious. I like how much basement storage (full width pass-thru) there is and the storage height.


I've tracked down the storage door handle/locks and that Company still makes them. Order a few and replaced.


We did buy the Coach some scrapes/damage on one basement door and rear side, last owner did this leaving a campground at night. No chassis damage, just body but the basement door did penetrate the surface. I have a temp repair on there to keep weather out. May have someone do the repair or I may try it myself learning to do fiberglass repair. I've already received info from several people.


.




.



.

[CoachStreamr]

Thanks for all the links and info these were all questions I was wondering about. Poly pipes with plastic poly fitting is a receipt for disaster. Owned a few properties with them in went to metal joints and sold properties. Did get the poly settlement but lost more than payment.




So you know first hand. My family has been in the Building business (custom and spec homes) for 60 years but around here the manifold systems have only been used for about 15 years and many contractors and plumbers still prefer copper. One of the trusted plumbers we contracted with for 25 years would never work with those systems so when a Custom wanted it, we contracted with other companies. Of course these are no longer poly.

I'm still trying to figure out what I am going to do to replace the cracked thumb fitting (not sure what to call it) on the copper 90 degree. The one for the mini refrig/ice maker is cracked but I closed that line at the manifold. Still have not replaced.

Should be prepared for when these fittings need to be replaced on other lines.

I have a thread here:


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/cracked-plumbing-fitting-help-identify-and-repair-tips-367395.html


.

[Sundancer268]

I have been using the Shark Bite fittings on the plumbing, if I ever find a manifold at a decent price I will probably replace all the PB with PEX. I might even do away with the Manifold and go back to old fashion plumbing layout with shutoff valves at each fixture. Not much will happen until I retire next May, then I will go to work in earnest. Right now it takes me forever to do anything, I spent Late May through this weekend just replacing the Dash A/C Expansion Valve and receiver dryer, while I had the dash off I reinforced the plastic cutouts for the switch panel, Instrument panel and entertainment/camera panel with 3/8" plywood around the cutout so the screws have something to bite into, I also had to straighten out the wiring mess from the previous owner and Gulf Stream, sealed four holes under the dash where Gulf Stream had run the wiring harnesses and HVAC Hoses through the decking. They sealed them with aluminum tape and it came loose. I also found two large air leaks in the corners above the head lamp modules. I used a spray foam kit to seal those two and cut custom patches and RTV for the hose/wiring harness holes. I hope I can now drive in the colder weather this fall with out my feet freezing. Hopefully the A/C will also work properly now.


CoachStreamr (http://www.gsowners.com/forums/member.php?u=5743), as far as the furnace, I had the motor go out on me also, would run but not fast enough to set the sail switch. I was where I need the furnace and could not get any parts for two days. I removed the motor and used three-in-one oil on the shaft bearings and it has been running fine for the last six or seven years. I am going to pull the furnace next year and clean all the wiring contacts on the circuit board and do a general inspection and re-oil the motor, I had a couple of issues where un-plugging and re-plugging the wiring harness corrected the problem. I am still on the original Reefer and have no separate freezer and I have replaced the sink faucets. I will probably replace them both next year for something the wife likes instead of what I had removed from the house.


Tonight I found the rear A/C fan motor has quit so I will have to see if Oil will free it up or if I will have to replace the capacitors, I am not ready to replace that unit yet. If I do it will be with an Atwood Heat Pump like I put in the Front when that A/C bit the dust two years ago.

[CoachStreamr]

CoachStreamr (http://www.gsowners.com/forums/member.php?u=5743), as far as the furnace, I had the motor go out on me also, would run but not fast enough to set the sail switch. I was where I need the furnace and could not get any parts for two days. I removed the motor and used three-in-one oil on the shaft bearings and it has been running fine for the last six or seven years.

Exactly what happen to this Coach's original furnace. It also made a noise upon shut down that I didn't like. Didn't know about three-in-one.

We don't winterize and didn't have many choices (though I have backup heat in the cabin and basement, it happened when we had weeks of <20 degree temps. Ordered one from Amazon (Amazon actually was the seller) for a good price, received in 2 days from their distributor back east. Right off the bat I could tell they may have been a repack. The blower's plastic shroud was also cracked. I installed it anyways to get heat going - after I called Amazon. They shipped out another overnight.

The 2nd new one came the next day from a Spokane Distributor and the furnace was packed as expected for a new one.

This is the Q (quiet) model. More plastic on these and a different design. The original had a metal blower and metal shroud, easy access to the sail switch. New one is plastic and seems the sail switch is enclosed in the plastic outer shroud. I stayed with the same BTU output. Perhaps like a lot of things, the <2000 models were built better?

I will eventually replace the motor (by a quality oem motor) on the original one. It will probably go into a future shed/tiny home that we want to build on the property. Should work okay to heat that.

I did replace all the foil tape below the furnace (around that furnace bay) and around the floor duct work. Old foil tape was cracked and not all the heated air was going into the duct as it should.

I suggest anyone with an original furnace to pull the furnace out and check that foil tape.


I have been using the Shark Bite fittings on the plumbing, if I ever find a manifold at a decent price I will probably replace all the PB with PEX. I might even do away with the Manifold and go back to old fashion plumbing layout with shutoff valves at each fixture. Not much will happen until I retire next May, then I will go to work in earnest. Right now it takes me forever to do anything, I spent Late May through this weekend just replacing the Dash A/C Expansion Valve and receiver dryer, while I had the dash off I reinforced the plastic cutouts for the switch panel, Instrument panel and entertainment/camera panel with 3/8" plywood around the cutout so the screws have something to bite into, I also had to straighten out the wiring mess from the previous owner and Gulf Stream, sealed four holes under the dash where Gulf Stream had run the wiring harnesses and HVAC Hoses through the decking. They sealed them with aluminum tape and it came loose. I also found two large air leaks in the corners above the head lamp modules. I used a spray foam kit to seal those two and cut custom patches and RTV for the hose/wiring harness holes. I hope I can now drive in the colder weather this fall with out my feet freezing. Hopefully the A/C will also work properly now.


Yes, that is what has been recommend to me in that thread I linked in a previous post.

Do you replace the entire line with Pex or just the PB fittings/ends with Shark Bite fittings?


In most cases when I cut off the old 90 degree fitting, I may be short on that line. Shark Bite has a Poly Adapter that I think would work (I'd cut the PB line back more then use the Shark Bite Adapter with some pex and proper fitting on the end. Have not finished my research yet.

Shark Bite Poly adapter: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/cracked-plumbing-fitting-help-identify-and-repair-tips-367395-2.html#post3916057

There is a company that makes a manifold to replace the one in my Coach and I believe Viega purchased the Manabloc lines. You can special order the replacement.

https://www.viega.us/en/homepage.html

Video:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/cracked-plumbing-fitting-help-identify-and-repair-tips-367395-2.html#post3916028

I actually like the manifold setting and If I ever plumb something new in the future, probably will go to pex and manifold and ignore our old school plumber friends.


.

[CoachStreamr]

Tonight I found the rear A/C fan motor has quit so I will have to see if Oil will free it up or if I will have to replace the capacitors, I am not ready to replace that unit yet. If I do it will be with an Atwood Heat Pump like I put in the Front when that A/C bit the dust two years ago.

Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


.

[xwhyz1959]

I work nights, 12 shifts, so I don't get much time to concentrate on mine. I appreciate all the information my friends! I'll keep you posted when I get back to working on mine.

[Sundancer268]

Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


.
I will try and keep the old A/C going, the new one I put up front is nice and quiet and we don't want that in the bedroom. We turn the fan to ON instead of Auto so we don't hear the compressor start and stop and the drone of the fan acts like a white noise machine for our sleeping hours. The new Atwood unit is great out front where you can talk with out having to raise your voice, but I can't make the fan run 24/7 to act as the white noise I want for sleeping. If I do have to replace the back unit I probably will go with a Coleman Heat pump of 15000 BTU to replace the Coleman A/C only 13000 BTU unit.

[Washington travler]

[QUOTE=CoachStreamr;25785]Just like the furnace (old vs new), I've read other owner's posts to keep the old A/C units and try to repair them. They are built better than the new ones.

What are your feelings about this?


Old things are built much better and to last a long time. Newer things were designed to fail. Guess I am partial old school. While new is nicer for a while the quality shows as time goes on. Many things I have gone to new but expect to throw them away when they break.

In the 80's they came out with new product PB plumbing engineered wood etc. I bought into them. I will never trust a new item over one I know for sure is reliable. Have not since. I live in a 100 year old house it is built like a fortress.

That is the reason for the older coach without slide outs. I was just looking for the engine and transmission, chassis that was bullet proof as possible. I also own a 93 ford crew cab 460 4x4 pristine condition. (not a daily driver)

[Sundancer268]

Well, I checked the A/C out tonight and it fired up right away, after it ran a few minutes the fan again quit. As free as the fan motor turns, I will replace the run capacitor this weekend. I searched my spare parts pile and found the required cap, 7.5mfd at 370vac. I also found my silver duct tape and with no rain forecast for the weekend i should be up and running in short order. Just in time for the Family Reunion vacation