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Kurlon
08-04-2018, 12:02 PM
After hunting for a couple years, I just drove home a 2007 Endura 6318. Prior owners kept it in beautiful shape, but I do have a few things I need to figure out:

1) Shudder/vibration at 1500 to 2500 RPM, rate changes with RPM, intensity increases with throttle. Get it to kick down and it pulls cleanly. I'm thinking misfire but will take it to a shop for a proper diag.

2) Switch above the mirror controls, thought heated mirrors but the owner doesn't recall it HAVING heated mirrors. When he replaced the driver side mirror he didn't recall there being any wires.

3) The porch light, and light in the step well, what turns them on? There is a 'porch step light' labeled switch on the entry way control strip but doesn't seem to do anything.

4) Where is the fuse for the upper, switched acc outlet on the dash, above the cigarette lighter?

Restorium
08-04-2018, 01:51 PM
These rigs are all different but I may have some clues;

Switch above mirror controls...hmmm...windshield fan switch?

My porch light switch is right on the light housing.


My porch step light is down underneath and is amber.


Dash fuses are down by the drivers left foot.

Kurlon
08-04-2018, 07:29 PM
Hrmm, no switch on my porch light housing, guess I'll pull the meter out and start chasing things tomorrow. I assume there isn't a wiring diagram floating around for these rigs? No cabinet lights working either... And what's that light green wire that's been cut under the bench seat where the converter/transfer switch live? Such fun mysteries... kinda.

Kurlon
08-04-2018, 09:02 PM
Ok, looks like a lot of what I'm chasing is dead bulbs, so that's nice.

Code reader says 'Random cylinder misfire, Cylinder #4 misfire' so that's what I'll be chasing next I guess. I can find coil packs from $270 for 10 to $700 for 10 until I hit up Amazon at which point I get a listing for $45... for a 10 pack?!

Lltotman
08-05-2018, 04:31 PM
On my -06-6331 theirs a group of switches by the coach enterance door. One switch controls porch/internal step lights, one switch controls steps on/off. This also controls the amber lamp under the steps. N
Not knowing the cab style you have. Mines a Kodiac. Heated miror switch is on the right dash .

Kurlon
08-06-2018, 02:43 PM
All lights working save for the compartment lights, haven't figured out how those bulbs come out. I suspect they're wedge base but don't want to get too aggressive taking them apart yet. The prior owner had ALL the manuals in a nice binder so I was able to figure out the porch step modes of operation, along with the associated lights and it's all good.

Haven't chased the mirror switch but will break out my laser thermometer tonight to see if they are indeed heated mirrors. Fuse 32 sorted my accessory socket. Rig has an appointment for a full service on the motor / transmission, so those issues will be going away soon. That leaves me the following items to chase right now:

1) Ramp door was rebuilt, new door isn't a foam core, it's all plywood now. As a result it's MUCH heavier. It's got four assist springs in the hinge, looks like there is room for two more, how much of a PITA is it to add springs?

2) Same ramp door, the bar locks used to have little press in bumpers so it wasn't metal on metal when you closed the door. The upper bumpers have long since wandered off, so there isn't full preload on it to seal it. Anyone know where to get more of those bumpers, or a suggested replacement?

Kurlon
08-07-2018, 10:06 PM
Ok, GS, what were you thinking? The primary stereo for the RV is the van head unit, ok. It's a bit odd having to put the van ignition into ACC to get music but whatever. Now, not setting the radio up to run off the house battery, or the power system so it'll charge the van battery when there is 110v available (shore or generator) when you've forced use of the van radio, that is crazy.

Restorium
08-08-2018, 05:58 AM
Ok, GS, what were you thinking? The primary stereo for the RV is the van head unit, ok. It's a bit odd having to put the van ignition into ACC to get music but whatever. Now, not setting the radio up to run off the house battery, or the power system so it'll charge the van battery when there is 110v available (shore or generator) when you've forced use of the van radio, that is crazy.
I agree, that set up lacks foresight. I switched my radio over and also provided a connection between batteries.

Kurlon
08-09-2018, 10:59 AM
How much over-capacity does the converter have? Will 15A draw from an AMP-L-Start be too much for it?

Restorium
08-09-2018, 11:05 AM
Depends on your batteries.

Kurlon
08-09-2018, 01:04 PM
Single 750CCA 'deep cycle marine' batt on the house side at the moment. Van batt is a 650CCA unit.

Sudsy
08-11-2018, 05:24 PM
Ok, looks like a lot of what I'm chasing is dead bulbs, so that's nice.

Code reader says 'Random cylinder misfire, Cylinder #4 misfire' so that's what I'll be chasing next I guess. I can find coil packs from $270 for 10 to $700 for 10 until I hit up Amazon at which point I get a listing for $45... for a 10 pack?!




Try just changing the plug wires first. They are only about a foot long each. On my Sun Voyager I can turn the wheels all the way right and change the right side from the wheel well. Left is the same. Some folks specify the wires. I used a set from NAPA. I think I could do the plugs from the wheel well too.



Sudsy

Restorium
08-11-2018, 05:42 PM
I would concentrate just on #4 first. Wire, plug, coil on #4. One at a time. Get rid of the code.

Sudsy
08-11-2018, 05:50 PM
I have read a lot about the Chevy 8.1 V8. The ignition failures are most commonly the wires. Next in line are the plugs. I don't much mention of changing coils and I would never buy a 10 pack for an 8 cylinder motor.



So.


Pull the #4 plug and look at it. It may or may not show problem. You could swap the #3 and #4 plugs and wires and see if the problem follows. Easiest would be to swap the plug wires between the cylinders.


THESE ARE NOT AT ALL LIKE THE FORD V10 COILS


Given the age and low mileage I suspect a set of wires will do it.



Sudsy

Sudsy
08-11-2018, 05:56 PM
Ok, GS, what were you thinking? The primary stereo for the RV is the van head unit, ok. It's a bit odd having to put the van ignition into ACC to get music but whatever. Now, not setting the radio up to run off the house battery, or the power system so it'll charge the van battery when there is 110v available (shore or generator) when you've forced use of the van radio, that is crazy.




Mine has a rocker switch with a musical note on it. If you turn it on the radio works. Look for one of those.



Sudsy

Sudsy
08-11-2018, 06:04 PM
[QUOTE=Kurlon;25800]All lights working save for the compartment lights, haven't figured out how those bulbs come out. I suspect they're wedge base but don't want to get too aggressive taking them apart yet. The prior owner had ALL the manuals in a nice binder so I was able to figure out the porch step modes of operation, along with the associated lights and it's all good.

Haven't chased the mirror switch but will break out my laser thermometer tonight to see if they are indeed heated mirrors. Fuse 32 sorted my accessory socket. Rig has an appointment for a full service on the motor / transmission, so those issues will be going away soon. That leaves me the following items to chase right now:

I have a Master Compartment Light switch right inside the door where the step switch is.



Inside the door. All switches down = Normal operation. I have 4 switches.

Porch Light, Entrance light, Compartment lights, Auto steps.


Sudsy

Restorium
08-12-2018, 06:14 AM
I have read a lot about the Chevy 8.1 V8. The ignition failures are most commonly the wires. Next in line are the plugs. I don't much mention of changing coils and I would never buy a 10 pack for an 8 cylinder motor.



So.


Pull the #4 plug and look at it. It may or may not show problem. You could swap the #3 and #4 plugs and wires and see if the problem follows. Easiest would be to swap the plug wires between the cylinders.


THESE ARE NOT AT ALL LIKE THE FORD V10 COILS


Given the age and low mileage I suspect a set of wires will do it.



Sudsy
He was lucky enough to get the code. A lot of the time you just have a random miss with no code. So I would delicately just work on 4 and see if the code goes away. Not messing with any other cylinder. No swapping around. That's the best way to get this taken care of without chasing your tail because you started swapping more things out than you had to.

Why the Ford coil comment? You think I only work on Fords? I was actually using what I learned on a Cadillac to give advice here.

Restorium
08-12-2018, 07:08 AM
Does it use any oil between changes?

Sudsy
08-12-2018, 09:20 AM
He was lucky enough to get the code. A lot of the time you just have a random miss with no code. So I would delicately just work on 4 and see if the code goes away. Not messing with any other cylinder. No swapping around. That's the best way to get this taken care of without chasing your tail because you started swapping more things out than you had to.

Why the Ford coil comment? You think I only work on Fords? I was actually using what I learned on a Cadillac to give advice here.




The Ford Coil comment came from the OP seeing 10 packs for $***.

But I'll tell you I am really getting tired of beating heads with you on everything I respond to. So count me out.I will let you go ahead and confuse the folks.


Sudsy

Restorium
08-12-2018, 09:24 AM
The Ford Coil comment came from the OP seeing 10 packs for $***.

But I'll tell you I am really getting tired of beating heads with you on everything I respond to. So count me out.I will let you go ahead and confuse the folks.


Sudsy
Beating heads? lol

This is how you get it done when there's more than on person giving advice.


How is telling someone to work carefully using the code confusing?

Restorium
08-12-2018, 09:38 AM
Sudsy,
You are definitely the judge of how you feel about my posts. So I will apologize for making you feel bullied. Didn't intend on that. Sorry.

Kurlon
08-13-2018, 09:41 PM
So, rig is a Ford chassis, not a Chevy. I haven't pulled a coil pack off yet but AFAIK there isn't a separate wire on these? On the same topic, it is eating oil as well so I'm thinking PCV valve(s) need replacing too. (Possibly the hoses as well.) Annoyingly none of the local parts shops had them of the shelf, or worse could find a PN?!

Had my first race weekend in the rig, absolutely love it. Only issue I ran into was the house battery being shot. Barely an hour with just the fridge on propane and the propane monitor and... reading as dead on the panel. So, ran the generator all weekend. (1/4 tank of gas). Checked tonight... batt was WAY low on water. Topped it off, guessing it's capacity is compromised anyways. Fortunately the next few outings I'll have access to shore power so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.

Kurlon
08-17-2018, 05:39 PM
Found one impending water leak in the shower, the elbow underneath where the pex makes the turn to go up to the shower controls has dripped. Dunno why they put elbows in, plenty of room for pex to just make the bend on it's own...

Also need to reengineer the ramp door, it was rebuilt and is not staying together.

Sudsy
08-18-2018, 05:32 PM
I used some Flex Seal in a pint can. Put two rubber gloves on same hand (light weight one's) and just reached in and rubbed the elbow down as best I could. Waited for a couple days and tried. This was on the pressure fill line for my fresh water tank from the selector. I could hardly see it way up in top of compartment.



Sudsy

THenne1713
08-20-2018, 12:28 AM
After hunting for a couple years, I just drove home a 2007 Endura 6318. Prior owners kept it in beautiful shape, but I do have a few things I need to figure out:

1) Shudder/vibration at 1500 to 2500 RPM, rate changes with RPM, intensity increases with throttle. Get it to kick down and it pulls cleanly. I'm thinking misfire but will take it to a shop for a proper diag.

2) Switch above the mirror controls, thought heated mirrors but the owner doesn't recall it HAVING heated mirrors. When he replaced the driver side mirror he didn't recall there being any wires.

3) The porch light, and light in the step well, what turns them on? There is a 'porch step light' labeled switch on the entry way control strip but doesn't seem to do anything.

4) Where is the fuse for the upper, switched acc outlet on the dash, above the cigarette lighter?
1) CODEs will tell, probably needs a coil or two replaced; 2) It is heated mirrors on most, a seldom used but valuable feature when you need it; 3) if by chance, u still have old bulbs vs LEDs, very likely burned out; if door magnet operated step, then might be the Kwikee step position switch problem. Careful, step can crush/ hit/ injure; 4) Van battery CAN be charged from shoreline/ GEN by using the ESS Switch; 5) Coach battery will charge from van when engine is running (most/ all modern?) (thru IGN Switch activated Relay/ solenoid)

THenne1713
08-20-2018, 12:35 AM
re: COPS (Coil On Plug), I understand 12v fed to each coil, and computer controls the ground to control firing.

Restorium
08-20-2018, 06:59 AM
Now here's something I learned a while back on my Coil On Plug 3.6 engine. One of the weak points of the Coil On Plug is the boots. Always get some heavy duty boots when working on these. Sometimes all you need are these boots.
I found this instructional video on it to help explain it;
https://www.autozone.com/video/video.jsp?searchTerm=IPQ5SAUM&searchType=byId

Kurlon
08-21-2018, 09:33 AM
New coil and plug on #4 and the rig is super cruising smoothly and effortlessly again. Meanwhile the house batt dumped it's cookies, melted the strap holding it down and got melty plastic on the side of my rig... little clean up and a new battery later... d-oh.

Roof has spots where the white has worn away to reveal the black rubber underneath. No soft spots on the roof, no leaks I'm aware of, I'm being told by some that the roof just needs to be coated, others say it's done, it needs a new membrane laid down. Any thoughts on that?

Restorium
08-21-2018, 09:42 AM
Definitely had a feeling it was just #4 with the code like that.

If the membrane has no rips then you just coat it. Worked for me. One tip on coating; be careful near the edges because you can see any sags or runs. My coating worked great but there are a few ugly spots on the edges if you look closely.

Kurlon
05-12-2019, 07:59 PM
So, year #2 with the rig, just noticed the rear diff is leaking somewhere around the bottom of the cover, was dry last year... Bah.

Also, I know I figured out the pattern to get the lights over the ramp door on, I can't do it now? There is a switch on the wall by the ramp, but no joy no matter what I try. It was something stupid like it had to be running / in aux but in park or some such? New bulbs last year, really would have been nice to have them while backing up into my driveway tonight.

Kurlon
05-14-2019, 03:32 PM
Ramp flood lights are tied to the parking brake, I will likely be changing that.