110 volts

[Scrooge517]

My Gulfstream home when plugged in only some of the outlets work what can I do to get the rest back on?
:confused:

[Restorium]

Check/reset the ground fault breakers on the wall outlets. Push in the little button on them. If that doesn't work check the breakers in the breaker box. My breaker box is under the bed.

[Frutza]

It would help to know what kind of unit you have, you can list it in your signature, like Retorium said, check your gfi outlet, people have also reported them in stange locations, if you have an inverter check the breaker on the inverter, and the obvious, did you check the breakers? I have 2 breaker boxes, go ahead and exercise the breakers ;ie, turn them off and back on

[Scrooge517]

I have checked all breakers I have tested all resets checked the inverter I looked under the bed the master control switch has a small green light on . My unit is a 2005 Gulfstream Friendship G7 40 ft 4 slide. With a 400 Cummins 6 speed auto 2stage exhaust brake.

[Restorium]

Try plugging it in somewhere else.

The most likely scenario is your ground fault breakers are tripping.

[Restorium]

I have 3 of these and when they trip they take out several plugs each;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqAY1XnPpwc

[Chuck v]

Scrooge517,



Another less common issue that can cause a group of 110 outlets to not be hot on shore power but work correctly on generator power is the motorized shore power cord retract reel. You have not yet stated if the outlets in question work properly on generator power, and if you have a power retract of the cord on your coach.


In my case where I was living aboard for long periods, the cord was extended and left in place, so the brushes in the reel were at the same wiper segment all the time. Apparently the brush or the commutator strip or both oxidized enough for me to loose one phase of the 220 shore power connection. I was told these reels are not repairable at that level of failure, so a new reel and cord got my coach fully functional again with regards to all the 110 outlets and appliances.


Hope this helps... At least let us know if your outlets work as they should on generator power.


Chuck

[Scrooge517]

Well I've gone to a different park same thing started the generator still the same I think I'm going to cut off the 50 amp. head and try a new one see if that makes a difference if not that I guess I'll have to get a new master switch. Thanks guys for all the help and advice I'm still working on this though.

[Chuck v]

If your issue is still present when running the generator, the fault is not in the 50 amp shore power cord or connection, but further inside your coach wiring. Typically the shore power comes into a transfer switch which selects between the park supplied power and the on-board generator. It is possible but not very likely that this transfer switch has one leg that has failed -- this would impact about half of all 110 loads in your coach.


Downstream of this transfer switch is the additional transfer switch internal to the inverter that feeds only those outlets/appliances that are usable when on inverter power (without shore power OR generator power...)


Do you have any items that run on the inverter correctly? Usually this is the residential refrigerator, the main salon TV and a few outlets. The inverter-driven loads have a separate breaker panel in my coach. All breakers are downstream of their respective transfer switches...


If the outlets you have that are 'dead' are not common to a single power path like the inverter, perhaps it is a wiring fault that is more mechanical in nature...are the failed outlets all in the slide, for instance?


Tell us what you find and observe -- maybe we can help narrow it down further.


Chuck

[Frutza]

So ,do all outlets work on genny? Do both AC units operate? You have 2 legs of 110 volts coming to your Rv, each A.c. unit will be one one leg, so if 1 AC unit does not run along with a bunch of outlets your losing one leg of power. Then is this the same on Benny and shore power?
Do you have a volt meter?

[Scrooge517]

I have two outlets that work six that does not work plus the two tv plugs & microwave I have not tried the air conditioning yet the washer dryer has power the refrigerator & both furnaces still work. My remote inverter shows 12v power but does not show any 120v power.

[Scrooge517]

And I did start the generator and it changed nothing.

[Chuck v]

On my coach the breakers are well labeled as to what they control -- refrigerator, bedroom curbside outlets, etc. so look carefully as to which ones may not be making a difference on any working AC loads when cycled.


Your furnaces do not run on AC...they are DC blowers and can run off the house batteries (but not for multiple nights without recharging the batteries...) Depending on what refrigerator you have, it may also not need AC if it is propane powered. The refrigerator in my coach is a residential type -- 23 cu ft and only runs off of AC. That is why my coach has a large inverter and a bank of 4 each 6 volt golf cart style deep cycle batteries completely separate from the house or engine starting batteries.


Your inverter should provide 120 power to selected loads when the shore power and the generator are not in use. Typically this would be the front TV, the residential refrigerator and some selected outlets, perhaps even the microwave... Most inverter systems do not default to provide the 120 volts unless you specifically turn them on -- otherwise they would drain the batteries when unattended.



You need to do a careful mapping of what outlets and which appliances are run from each leg of the 240 volt supply.


Since your tv receivers and the microwave do not work presently, it may be the inverter-specific transfer switch that is at fault. This presumes that you have a Norcold or similar refrigerator that is not totally dependend on AC power as well...


How long have you owned this coach? Did the outlets and televisions work as they should until recently? Do you have any pictures of the breaker panel labeling? My coach had the breaker panels under the refrigerator, but yours may be locate elsewhere.



Chuck

[Scrooge517]

I have owned it for 3 months every thing worked all plugs all TVs until my wife plugged in the toaster

[Restorium]

I have owned it for 3 months every thing worked all plugs all TVs until my wife plugged in the toaster
That happens a lot with ours. Then I go and reset the circuit breaker. It happens when we plug in an appliance on the same circuit as our electric heater.

They have this inexpensive tool that you plug into a wall socket and then you point it at your breakers and you find the one that controls it. I would try that. Figure out which breaker goes for which plugs and then figure out which ones are working and which ones aren't. Might give you something to focus on.

Link for tool;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-W-Sperry-Gardner-Bender-Automatic-Circuit-Breaker-Finder-CS-550A/222808133583?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

[Frutza]

I have owned it for 3 months every thing worked all plugs all TVs until my wife plugged in the toaster
With that being said, I would say you definitely have a breaker tripped. What I,better do you have? Xantrex? Magnum? What display? LCD or led? It definitely sounds like your inverter is not working. Your inverter should not only make 110 volts but pass thru 110 volts when on shore powers.
Your lights, furnace, fridge, should be run on 12 volts
Now, in my coach, almost everything goes thru the inverter, except water heater 110 side and AC units,

But it sure sounds like a inverter problem, it may have its own button breaker on the unit somewhere.
If you don't find anything, you can try a reboot for the inverter, unug your coach, next find the battery cable to the inverter and disconnect it, wait 1 minute then reconnect, it should give a big spark when you reconnect, so be careful, them plug back in

[Chuck v]

It is very useful to know finally that your symptoms began with an overload condition brought on by the use of a high wattage appliance like the toaster, so much of this thread's discussion of transfer switches is not likely applicable. I would wager it was plugged into the utility outlet under the microwave shelf -- correct? That outlet is common to the same breaker as the Microwave, the TV, and a couple of other outlets in my coach and perhaps in yours as well. The breaker in my coach was clearly labeled "Microwave" so it was easy to find -- plus it was tripped so the lever was in a position between the normal off and set positions on the breaker.


In your case if it is not a breaker that tripped, you have damaged wiring someplace. Use of the circuit tracer gadget shown in the link above will help if your breakers are not adequately labeled.


Chuck

[Restorium]

Obvious next step; Find the breaker and check both sides of it.


One of two things going on:


1.Haven't found the breaker yet.


2.Broken breaker.

[Scrooge517]

It looks like it is the inverter we got power on one side but not the other we took the front panel off and found a burnt wire then we plugged it in and blew The power again so it's not what I wanted to find but that looks like that is it. I would like to thank you all for your help so if you need someone to break your camper I will be around
Thanks again. Ron.

[Frutza]

Its not to late to ask Santa
When you do get into your repairs, it might be a good idea to check the rest of your 110 connections, solid wire, screw clamp connection and vibration are not a good combination, mostly in your breaker box, when the power is off open it up and tighten every screw, cheer up, Rv's are not for the faint of heart, its always something
MERRY CHRISTMAS

[Scrooge517]

Well I am finding that out the wife wants to go home already but I say no way not yet it's Florida or broke. Next adventure coming soon.
Ron & Barb
Gulfstream Friendship G7 2005

[Frutza]

Did you bypass the inverter? When mine went out I just bypassed, while unplugged, remove bother sets of wires going to and coming from the inverter and hook them together, should be color to color,

[Big Shasta]

Did you bypass the inverter? When mine went out I just bypassed, while unplugged, remove bother sets of wires going to and coming from the inverter and hook them together, should be color to color,

Exactly how mine is. I didn't have an inverter when we got it and I don't miss it at all.

[bmoj]

I'm no electrician but........


The 120v MH wiring is the same as your house wiring. The power comes into your main breaker which allows the current to flow down through the buss bar to the breakers. From the breakers the black wire goes to the outlet/switch and back to the breaker panel to a terminal strip marked "Common"


I have a 2005 Ultrasupreme Class A and is wired with roadside plugs, curbside plugs, microwave, AC, and ground fault. Yours is probably the same.


My problem started last year at this time when I couldn't get my air conditioner switch to work. After testing with a multi-meter I discovered I had a bad connection at the common. When I took the cover off the breaker panel, the last 4" of all the common wires were burnt to a crisp and the stranded wire turned to dust. I went through and spliced in new wires and that solved my problem.


So, 3 weeks ago I lost my microwave. I used an extension cord from a working plug to test it and the microwave worked. So it was back to the breaker panel. Again all the wires were burnt. When I spliced them the last time I used Marretts. The packaging said they were good to 221F and the microwave Marrett had a hole burnt in it! I replaced the wire and the microwave is good again. About a week later I lost all my roadside plugs. Back to the breaker panel and I had to splice in a new piece of wire.


Long story short, here it is Dec 30 2018 and I'm Las Vegas. My son the electrician is flying in today and will bring some of his testing equipment with him. I have a problem with the common connection that needs to be resolved. It is beyond my area of knowledge and I don't have the testing equipment to trace the problem. I will have to resplice all the wires once I find out what my problem is.



So Scrooge517, look in your breaker panel (turn off the power first) and make sure your common wires are good. Make sure the connections at the terminal strip are tight. If they are loose, your plugs will not work.

[Photobug17]

Being an electrician for over 30 years, I would bet it is a bad breaker, it may not looked tripped but still be bad. If you have a meter, and are not shy about working around live power, you need to take off your panel covers and check each breaker where the wire terminates under the screw, I would bet you would find one without power. Just my humble opinion.

If you have an inverter, you should have two panels.

[Restorium]

I'm no electrician but........


The 120v MH wiring is the same as your house wiring. The power comes into your main breaker which allows the current to flow down through the buss bar to the breakers. From the breakers the black wire goes to the outlet/switch and back to the breaker panel to a terminal strip marked "Common"


I have a 2005 Ultrasupreme Class A and is wired with roadside plugs, curbside plugs, microwave, AC, and ground fault. Yours is probably the same.


My problem started last year at this time when I couldn't get my air conditioner switch to work. After testing with a multi-meter I discovered I had a bad connection at the common. When I took the cover off the breaker panel, the last 4" of all the common wires were burnt to a crisp and the stranded wire turned to dust. I went through and spliced in new wires and that solved my problem.


So, 3 weeks ago I lost my microwave. I used an extension cord from a working plug to test it and the microwave worked. So it was back to the breaker panel. Again all the wires were burnt. When I spliced them the last time I used Marretts. The packaging said they were good to 221F and the microwave Marrett had a hole burnt in it! I replaced the wire and the microwave is good again. About a week later I lost all my roadside plugs. Back to the breaker panel and I had to splice in a new piece of wire.


Long story short, here it is Dec 30 2018 and I'm Las Vegas. My son the electrician is flying in today and will bring some of his testing equipment with him. I have a problem with the common connection that needs to be resolved. It is beyond my area of knowledge and I don't have the testing equipment to trace the problem. I will have to resplice all the wires once I find out what my problem is.



So Scrooge517, look in your breaker panel (turn off the power first) and make sure your common wires are good. Make sure the connections at the terminal strip are tight. If they are loose, your plugs will not work.

Seems like it was a bad connection causing arcing in the first place. The heat and arcing could have made the common bar distorted and corroded. Then, because of the damage, you have more than one connection bad with a lot more heat and arcing. If you can't replace the burnt common bar, a whole new breaker box may be needed. That's my guess without seeing it.