New Gulfstream owner water heater questions

[Red21]

Hi and thanks in advance for any info that can be provided.when I bought my Gulfstream the hot water heater hot and cold connections was not hooked up ,could someone lead me in the right directions as to hook it up.my supply lines seem to be interlooped with one another , thanks and merry Christmas to all it's a 2005 gulf ct

[Leisure Time Larry]

Hi and Merry Christmas. This is very vague without much info as to what rig you have, what hot water heater you have, without pictures or much of a description, but here goes...

Generally, for a 6 or 10 gallon propane or propane/electric hot water heater: a cold fresh line will come in from the water pump/city water hookup, run to the inlet of the bypass valve, often a t-shaped 3-connection valve. In the "normal" flow position, water would then go from the #1 outlet pipe from the bypass valve to the low inlet of the hot water heater. Water would then fill and be heated inside of the tank. The upper outlet of the hot water heater would connect to a hot water line. This hot water line should have a backflow prevention inline valve connected to it after the tank, then the hot water line will continue to go provide hot water to the coach.

Outlet #2 from the bypass valve would have a pipe that feeds back into the hot water line going to the rest of the coach after the hot water heater and backflow valve. The backflow valve will prevent water from backing into the hot water tank. This is so you can bypass the hot water tank for winterizing, repairs, etc. This is probably the "interlooping" you refer to.

Hopefully, this makes sense to you. Good luck!

[jamesham]

From what you describe as hot and cold lines interlooped, I think you may have inherited a winter bypass project that was DIY and left. It is common to have a valve at the top of the water heater on the inlet to shut off during winterazation of the water system with the pink antifreeze. This prevents having to load 6 gallons of pink stuff into the water heater. (The water heater is drained and blown out in the conventional external drain plugs.)

Just rehook water supply line from the pump to the WH inlet and the other to the exit usually lower fitting. Fill and pressurize and see what happens. It is possible the water heater is defective, leaks, does not hold pressure, or will not even fire off. You have to have it filled with water to test. If the unit has flame and heats, it may pop off the high pressure valve at the top, indicating replacement for safety.

Good luck and please let us know on the forum about how it turns out.

[Restorium]

From what you describe as hot and cold lines interlooped, I think you may have inherited a winter bypass project that was DIY and left. It is common to have a valve at the top of the water heater on the inlet to shut off during winterazation of the water system with the pink antifreeze. This prevents having to load 6 gallons of pink stuff into the water heater. (The water heater is drained and blown out in the conventional external drain plugs.)

Just rehook water supply line from the pump to the WH inlet and the other to the exit usually lower fitting. Fill and pressurize and see what happens. It is possible the water heater is defective, leaks, does not hold pressure, or will not even fire off. You have to have it filled with water to test. If the unit has flame and heats, it may pop off the high pressure valve at the top, indicating replacement for safety.

Good luck and please let us know on the forum about how it turns out.
I wouldn't put that pink stuff in my water supply for winterization. I just use it for the drain traps. You should blow out the lines with air pressure to clear them for winter storage. Very easy, less costly, no residue.