Dash A/C Recharge

[TaosBill]

2005 Gulfstream Crescendo 8386
Thanks Dennis1554, I used most of your post text :wink:
My dash A/C is not blowing cold anymore. I am hoping a Freon recharge will fix the problem. Just wondering if any of you have done this or if it’s even possible to use the same recharge kit I use on other vehicles. If it is, where will I find the low pressure port? Walmart recharge kit maybe? :rolleyes:
Thanks in advance :)

[Dennis1554]

You are welcome TaosBill! Just to let you know, the ports are indeed above the generator. One is larger with a black cap. (High pressure). The other is smaller with a blue cap. (Low pressure). I used the AC Pro recharge with the hose and gauge. Connected to low pressure port and recharged according to instructions. Worked great and I now have cold air! Took a large 20 oz. can plus part of another can to get it filled. Good luck with yours!

[TaosBill]

Thank you Dennis1554. Was that a Walmart A/C Pro kit?
If not, by chance did you order it on the internet & would you share the order link?
This is the one I am considering:
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Conditioning-Recharge-Bundle-Piece/dp/B0731ZFDFN/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QVY6EYZY7CIS&keywords=ac+pro+recharge+kit&qid=1561966379&s=gateway&sprefix=ac+pro%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3#customerReviews

[Restorium]

Thank you Dennis1554. Was that a Walmart A/C Pro kit?
If not, by chance did you order it on the internet & would you share the order link?
This is the one I am considering:
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Conditioning-Recharge-Bundle-Piece/dp/B0731ZFDFN/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QVY6EYZY7CIS&keywords=ac+pro+recharge+kit&qid=1561966379&s=gateway&sprefix=ac+pro%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3#customerReviews

That one works good. Follow the directions that comes with it closely.

[RGFlinn]

If you are low on refrigerant, just adding more only pushes the real fix down the road. It will leak again. In addition, the refrigerant used today, most likely R-134a, is more critical to proper charging. Too much can cause a loss of cooling as much as too little. To properly service your unit, the leak should be found and corrected. Then using a complete manifold set of gauges to properly monitor high and low pressures should be used when charging the system. In addition, ambient temperatures and a thermometer in a dash output vent can help make sure your system will work at peak efficiency.

Also, if your system has lost it's charge, you might also need to add lubricating oil to the system. This really should be done with a complete evacuation of the system and then the proper amount of oil and refrigerant added back into the system.

It often pays to pay for a proper servicing, not a shade-tree quick 'fix' than can cause more damage and expense. Look for a sticker under the hood with A/C charge specs or check with your local chassis dealer/service center for proper information.

[Restorium]

If you are low on refrigerant, just adding more only pushes the real fix down the road. It will leak again. In addition, the refrigerant used today, most likely R-134a, is more critical to proper charging. Too much can cause a loss of cooling as much as too little. To properly service your unit, the leak should be found and corrected. Then using a complete manifold set of gauges to properly monitor high and low pressures should be used when charging the system. In addition, ambient temperatures and a thermometer in a dash output vent can help make sure your system will work at peak efficiency.

Also, if your system has lost it's charge, you might also need to add lubricating oil to the system. This really should be done with a complete evacuation of the system and then the proper amount of oil and refrigerant added back into the system.

It often pays to pay for a proper servicing, not a shade-tree quick 'fix' than can cause more damage and expense. Look for a sticker under the hood with A/C charge specs or check with your local chassis dealer/service center for proper information.
Auto air conditioners can lose up to 15% of the refrigerant a year without a major leak to cause it.
I've recharged countless vehicles with success.
The better re-charge kits have gauges and even an ambient temp strip so it's not likely to overcharge if you follow the instructions to a T.
The only time the system needs oil is if there was a major leak.
I think for most DIY type people it's worth a try.
AC techs will argue with that because it's their job and they love to charge you for things you could have done yourself. They like to disparage folks with terms like 'shade tree'. Makes it sound 'shady' in a bad way. Nothing shady about doing your own repairs responsibly.

[RGFlinn]

Auto air conditioners can lose up to 15% of the refrigerant a year without a major leak to cause it.
I've recharged countless vehicles with success.
The better re-charge kits have gauges and even an ambient temp strip so it's not likely to overcharge if you follow the instructions to a T.
The only time the system needs oil is if there was a major leak.
I think for most DIY type people it's worth a try.
AC techs will argue with that because it's their job and they love to charge you for things you could have done yourself. They like to disparage folks with terms like 'shade tree'. Makes it sound 'shady' in a bad way. Nothing shady about doing your own repairs responsibly.

I've never seen a 'kit' that has a complete manifold set of high and low pressure gauges. The type I've seen in auto part stores and Walmart only have a low pressure gauge on the top of the can of refrigerant with a connecting hose to the low pressure side of the system. I wouldn't call that a 'kit.'

http://autotechac.com/ac-facts-and-myths/

[Restorium]

The type I've seen in auto part stores and Walmart only have a low pressure gauge on the top of the can of refrigerant with a connecting hose to the low pressure side of the system.
Glad to help you out with that. Here's how you check to see if your system needs a charge using the gauge that comes with the kit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pY2NbfAqqak

[RGFlinn]

Nothing new in that video ad for the A/C Pro. Of course they show how simple and 'foolproof' THEIR system is, they're trying to sell it!

I have a complete manifold set of gauges and use it when checking the A/C in my vehicles. I once had a van that had the receiver/dryer fail and release fibers into the system. The low pressure side showed low pressures, but the high side showed pressures that further investigation revealed the fibers blocking the expansion valve.

R-134a refrigerant pressures are much more critical than the ancient R-12 or even R-22 freons. R-134a has a much narrower range of pressures to achieve maximum cooling by the phase change that all such systems rely on to remove heat from the cabin. Overcharging can cause a reduction in cooling as does an undercharged system due to leaks.

Proper attention to these pressures is important for the health of your A/C system. Yes, you might improve cooling by a can of refrigerant on a hose with a cheap gauge on the can top, but I prefer doing it a bit more accurately with a manifold set of gauges and a thermometer in the outlet on the dash.

[Restorium]

and a thermometer in the outlet on the dash.
They include one with the PRO kit.

[Puettz]

I have a 2006 GulfStream Crescendo 36’ and it is blowing hot air through the dash. I took it into a local mechanic and they evacuated the system and refilled it. Apparently there was a 10 amp fuse located in the back that blew. It was producing cold air and then the fuse blew again. The mechanic thought I might have a clutch problem on the AC unit. I tried another fuse and it blew almost immediately. Just curious if anyone else had a problem like this. Thanks in advance.

[RGFlinn]

I have a 2006 GulfStream Crescendo 36’ and it is blowing hot air through the dash. I took it into a local mechanic and they evacuated the system and refilled it. Apparently there was a 10 amp fuse located in the back that blew. It was producing cold air and then the fuse blew again. The mechanic thought I might have a clutch problem on the AC unit. I tried another fuse and it blew almost immediately. Just curious if anyone else had a problem like this. Thanks in advance.

I think your mechanic properly identified the problem. A blown fuse in the clutch circuit is almost always a bad electric clutch. You could use an ammeter to test and see how many amps are being drawn, but other than a bad connection or bare wire short it is most likely the electric clutch. Usually, the clutch/pulley can be changed out easily with few tools.

[Puettz]

Thanks for the quick response. I just watched a video of changing out an AC clutch and I think I will have my mechanic do this. You made me feel a lot better so thank you. See you on the road. Blake