Towing with a Tourmaster T-40A

[proost]

Hey everyone!

Just about to pop and buy a 2018 HP tiltbed trailer to haul our 2016 Subaru Outback. Roughly 5500lbs. I have a 10000lb towing so no issue there. All weights are within the GVWR (32400lbs) and GCWR (42400lbs).

For folks who have a similar towing configuration, what are you doing for good safe uphill towing? The last time I went uphill with no tow, the engine got hot and so I had the radiator cooling sandwich cleaned (not dipped though) but it was also in 100F weather just north of Phoenix. Of course, now that I'll be towing and hauling more weight uphill, figure it's time to get some input and advice.

What I have typically been doing is gearing down by manually shifting the Allison 6-spd to increase RPMs and get the cooling flowing. Any tips? What speeds you typically see? What types of grades have you taken your coach on?

Thanks a lot for the advice.

[UAHaerospace]

I'm sure that trailer design might work, but it seems a little cumbersome for someone towing a 'daily driver' vehicle where you might be using this on a regular basis... it looks a little dangerous in that you are such a slant while you are driving your vehicle 'up' this ramp, and then must debark the vehicle, while still at this slant, all without your car yet being strapped or chained(?)... or maybe I'm missing how it is supposed to work.

I would think that a more true 'car hauler' trailer with pull-out ramps would be a much better alternative. Your trailer is already 'flat' when you drive up or off of it, and the ramps are the only 'manual' intervention needed, otherwise.

I suppose that your Outback is AWD and therefore can't also be towed with a dolly. I loved our Outback, but that's also one of the main drawbacks when RVing.

Of course, and I suppose you already know all of the details since you've probably researched your options, but having a large trailer like this also presents problems at campgrounds and rv parks that could get annoying, and/or aggravating.
Having a trailer means that you must 'park it' somewhere else if it doesn't fit into your 'pull thru' site, or if you are going to have to 'back up' into a site, which is not typically designed with trailers in mind.
You must then DEBARK your car, first, before you can then detach the trailer, at whatever location you can then find to park it. Some campgrounds and rv parks have designated places, others don't, but you'd have to do this with your long MOTORHOME, which can also add to the chore.

While there are those that choose this type of car hauling, you may quickly find that it's why you see so many tow dollies and 4-wheels down toads, rather than trailers.

[proost]

I'm sure that trailer design might work, but it seems a little cumbersome for someone towing a 'daily driver' vehicle where you might be using this on a regular basis... it looks a little dangerous in that you are such a slant while you are driving your vehicle 'up' this ramp, and then must debark the vehicle, while still at this slant, all without your car yet being strapped or chained(?)... or maybe I'm missing how it is supposed to work.

I would think that a more true 'car hauler' trailer with pull-out ramps would be a much better alternative. Your trailer is already 'flat' when you drive up or off of it, and the ramps are the only 'manual' intervention needed, otherwise.

I suppose that your Outback is AWD and therefore can't also be towed with a dolly. I loved our Outback, but that's also one of the main drawbacks when RVing.

Of course, and I suppose you already know all of the details since you've probably researched your options, but having a large trailer like this also presents problems at campgrounds and rv parks that could get annoying, and/or aggravating.
Having a trailer means that you must 'park it' somewhere else if it doesn't fit into your 'pull thru' site, or if you are going to have to 'back up' into a site, which is not typically designed with trailers in mind.
You must then DEBARK your car, first, before you can then detach the trailer, at whatever location you can then find to park it. Some campgrounds and rv parks have designated places, others don't, but you'd have to do this with your long MOTORHOME, which can also add to the chore.

While there are those that choose this type of car hauling, you may quickly find that it's why you see so many tow dollies and 4-wheels down toads, rather than trailers.

Hey, thanks a lot for the reply. Definitely a con having to trailer your car and we were actually talking about that this AM. We really love our Sube so trading down to a flat towable vehicle isn't great but your points are valid. The trailer is awesome. It tilts down so we can drive up and then it has a hydraulic motor to flatten it back down. That said, where to put it if we're in a campground is an issue.

[proost]

... it looks a little dangerous in that you are such a slant while you are driving your vehicle 'up' this ramp, and then must debark the vehicle, while still at this slant, all without your car yet being strapped or chained(?)... or maybe I'm missing how it is supposed to work.


Oh, I forgot to mention that the power tilt will lower the bed flat before you need to get out. There are some other flatbed tilt models that work on weight. Pretty handy and easy actually. We ended up just buying it.

[THenne1713]

No experience, but would add extra trans cooling?

[Dennis4809]

Think the real issue is whether or not your radiator was cleaned sufficiently. Using it is about the only way to know. Your unit was designed with sufficient cooling but that obviously relays on good air flow. I carry a motorcycle and tow a car and have only experienced overheating one time. Heading west between Needles and Barstow. Long steep grade with cruise control on. Once I noticed the climbing temps, kicked off the cruise control, slowed down a little and downshifted to keep the rpms up. Temp dropped and all was well.

Good luck,

[proost]

Think the real issue is whether or not your radiator was cleaned sufficiently. Using it is about the only way to know. Your unit was designed with sufficient cooling but that obviously relays on good air flow. I carry a motorcycle and tow a car and have only experienced overheating one time. Heading west between Needles and Barstow. Long steep grade with cruise control on. Once I noticed the climbing temps, kicked off the cruise control, slowed down a little and downshifted to keep the rpms up. Temp dropped and all was well.

Good luck,

Exactly. I did get it cleaned and will do that semi-annually. If that fails, I'll have the cooling stack pulled and dipped. The previous owner told me how they were just driving between Tucson and Phoenix and it started overheating...and it was new. Pesky rear intakes.

[RayChez1]

32,000 plus is not really that much weight for your coach. Since you do not state what engine you have I just assume since there are several TourMasters in our club like yours and they have either a Mercedes or a Cummins ISL. Both of those engines should pull that trailer with your vehicle with no problems. I am kind of surprised that your TourMaster has the rear radiator, I thought it would have had the side radiator.

Now pulling a toad in a trailer is a pain because of RV parks limited space. Sometimes you have to pay for two spots because of the trailer. I only have towed four down and I would not go any other way. Had a bad experience with a dolly losing the vehicle. Luckily it did not kill or hurt anybody, but it could have.

Now if the CAC is plugged up, it is going to overheat. Most that do not clean the CAC well, your coach will over heat on long grades like coming up from Needles to Barstow, or going north on I-15 from Baker to Las Vegas are hard on motor homes pulling a trailer with a heavy vehicle inside. They are not aero dynamically design and those area's the temperatures do get pretty hot anyways in the summer time. Winter not so bad!

[proost]

32,000 plus is not really that much weight for your coach. Since you do not state what engine you have I just assume since there are several TourMasters in our club like yours and they have either a Mercedes or a Cummins ISL. Both of those engines should pull that trailer with your vehicle with no problems. I am kind of surprised that your TourMaster has the rear radiator, I thought it would have had the side radiator.

Now pulling a toad in a trailer is a pain because of RV parks limited space. Sometimes you have to pay for two spots because of the trailer. I only have towed four down and I would not go any other way. Had a bad experience with a dolly losing the vehicle. Luckily it did not kill or hurt anybody, but it could have.

Now if the CAC is plugged up, it is going to overheat. Most that do not clean the CAC well, your coach will over heat on long grades like coming up from Needles to Barstow, or going north on I-15 from Baker to Las Vegas are hard on motor homes pulling a trailer with a heavy vehicle inside. They are not aero dynamically design and those area's the temperatures do get pretty hot anyways in the summer time. Winter not so bad!

Yes, we have the MBE. The last owners pulled a trailered Escalade so we'll check it out when we hit the next grade. That time going up grade south of Carlsbad caverns! That told me we needed to do something. The long grade from Phoenix to Flagstaff as well.

I hear ya on the 4-down. We almost went that route but figure we'll just give it a shot this year and if necessary, we'll sell the trailer and Subaru but I really love the versatility and utility of that car. We're also going to volunteer in every state and vlog about it and having that trailer may come in handy when we go to job sites! That Outback can pull it and another 1000lbs so we'll see how it goes.

[Dennis4809]

Exactly. I did get it cleaned and will do that semi-annually. If that fails, I'll have the cooling stack pulled and dipped. The previous owner told me how they were just driving between Tucson and Phoenix and it started overheating...and it was new. Pesky rear intakes.

Don’t see any reason to do semi-annual cleaning. Just make sure you’re not dumping oily engine fumes into the radiator plugging things up. Ours is 13 years old and doubt that the radiator has ever been cleaned. Know it hasn’t in the last 7. Also know that our slobber tube is extended well rear of the radiator so no oil residue to collect dust.

[proost]

Don’t see any reason to do semi-annual cleaning. Just make sure you’re not dumping oily engine fumes into the radiator plugging things up. Ours is 13 years old and doubt that the radiator has ever been cleaned. Know it hasn’t in the last 7. Also know that our slobber tube is extended well rear of the radiator so no oil residue to collect dust.

That's something to check and will do. I do live in the dusty desert southwest. We don't get a lot of rain!