Tire Jack and Lug Tools?

[CaryL]

I have BT Cruiser 5245 with an Ford E-350 Super Duty chassis. Per the included Ford owners manual it shows how to change a tire and use the jack but it doesn't say where it is stored. I have searched and can't find one.

Does Gulf Stream not supply a tire jack and tools even though we have a spare tire?


If so what are other owners using?

[Leisure Time Larry]

Hi CaryL,

I am not the original owner of my BT Cruiser, so I can't say for sure if it came with these tools or not. My guess is not, or they were not kept with the vehicle. I do carry tire changing equipment with me because I don't like relying on anyone else. Some may carry a roadside service card and be okay with that. Not me.

You've got to check out your rig and situation and ask yourself what will you need to do the job? What will you need to take off the wheel simulator/hub caps? Are they bolt on or press on? What will you need to get the spare unloaded? What will you need to get the flat tire up high enough off of the ground so that the spare will still go on easily? What will you need to break the lug nuts free? What do you need to put the lug nuts back on?

Each person's choice of tools and equipment will vary. Cost, safety and ease of use are factors. Speaking of safety, do you carry reflective triangles, flares or LED flare substitutes to set out should you need to pull to the side of the road?

Along with a basic toolkit, I recommend a set of wheel chocks, a long breaker bar with extensions and proper socket(s) to remove lug nuts and a torque wrench to put them back on. This stuff can be found on the cheap at Harbor Freight. A jack is needed, and I recommend a kit like that from www.safejacks.com I also recommend keeping a tire pump on-board. The spare is rarely maintained, and you want to be able to bring it up to the proper PSI for travel. I have the Viair 88P with a gas station type tire filler adapted to it.

Best to you, Larry

[CaryL]

Hi Larry,
Many thanks to you for contributing your time and expertise in responding. You have outlined a lot of excellent points to consider. I hope other folks read your pointers as they could keep a lot of people much safer whether they change a tire or just wait by the road for service.

I would be fairly comfortable with changing out a front tire on a good surface and with a good jack. For the back wheels I will need to study to fully understand what is involved with the duals. Especially if it was an inside tire.

If one of the duals went flat would it be safe to drive the vehicle a short distance to get to the next exit or parking spot?

Also many thanks for the safejack site. I was not aware such adapters exist. Again one of my concerns was a proper jack with an appropriate saddle to seat to the round jack points under the BTC.

I will definitely be stocking up with such products!
Cary

[Leisure Time Larry]

Cary,

The dual wheel setup is simply adding another wheel/tire to the wheel studs. To explain further, a rear axle with a dual wheel is just like the front. The same rims are used all around. If you removed the outer dual, the rear would look just like the front. Then, they add another wheel, turned around so that the hump of the rim is facing inward, and the two are touching each other, then both are held on by the single set of lug nuts. Sometimes there is a dowel pin that needs to be lined up so that the dual wheels go together a certain way, but that is fairly obvious when taking off/putting on. If there is not pin, then the most common way to put the dual wheels on is to have the valve stems offset, so if the inner tire has the valve stem at the 12 o'clock position, you would install the outer tire with the valve stem at the 6 o'clock position. This has to do with overall balance of the axle.

"If one of the duals went flat would it be safe to drive the vehicle a short distance to get to the next exit or parking spot?"

To help answer this, you are really going to want to know your rig weights, particularly axle weights, and best of all its corner weights. Then, you are going to know what the maximum weight your tires can support. Then, do the math. Typically, if you have a dual wheel set-up, then your rear axle weight can't be supported by just two tires. But, can it be supported by three?

Furthermore, the situation itself will need to be factored in. Is the tire flat from leaking air out but the tire is in good condition otherwise, or was there a blowout where further rotation of the tire may cause damage to the RV by destroying brake lines, holding tanks, wheel wells, stairs, etc?

I would say whenever there is a tire situation on the road, pull over immediately when safe so the situation can be examined. If there is a need to travel further to reach a better location or an exit, I would use my pump to air up the other good tires on the axle to the maximum psi. If that one tire on the flat side will be overloaded for that duration, know that it will be at risk for an issue in the future. It will likely get you safely down the road at a slow speed, that of course is an advantage to a dual wheel set up.

These are of course but one man's thoughts and opinions. If you find them useful, then I am pleased. Safe travels, Larry

[CaryL]

Larry,

Once again I am most appreciative for your help.

Everything you said now clearly explains the dual setup and many factors to consider.


This is all extremely valuable.

thank you!!

Cary

[jamesham]

You have been given really excellent advice already by Larry, so we have very little to add except for the advice that preparation is the key. We would be very hard-pressed to be able to change any tire on our GS Class C, and depend on our road service plan to bail us out. Coach-Net has saved us a lot of back-breaking work.

But we do have the tools necessary to change a tire if we are stuck in the middle of nowhere with no cell service. The proper jack and lug wrench have already been detailed in previous messages. We have overkill because we carry two HY stick jacks with 8 ton ratings. We also carry a mounted spare, and an unmounted spare under the motorhome between the chassis rails. The unmounted spare is just a leftover from the last new-tire-purchase where we saved the best of the 4 tires that were replaced due to age-out. Whomever Coach-Net sends out has the equipment to mount the spare tire on the old rim that had the blowout and usually shredded that tire.

We never have a tire on the ground that is older than 6 years, but we still have had tire troubles on the Interstate. There is a lot of crap left on the highway and we seem to hit most of it. We have had 3 tires blowout or damaged in the last 10 years, and always from hitting gators or metal in the road.



I have BT Cruiser 5245 with an Ford E-350 Super Duty chassis. Per the included Ford owners manual it shows how to change a tire and use the jack but it doesn't say where it is stored. I have searched and can't find one.

Does Gulf Stream not supply a tire jack and tools even though we have a spare tire?


If so what are other owners using?

[DieselDude]

I’m not 100% sure on the RVs, but I do work in a shop which services a fleet of Ford E350 and E450 shuttle buses. None of them have jacks, tools or spare tires. My guess would be the RV does not have them either.

[moikey]

CaryL, If you can avoid it, don't drive on a flat other than to get to the side of the road - even with a dual rear wheel setup. My 2015 class C blew an inner tire at around 55 miles per hour in 2018, on a one lane(each way) state road. I limped along at about 5 miles an hour (for about 1/8 of a mile) until I found an opening that I could pull off. I didn't have a spare but was 35 minutes to a Costco tire center and 2 1/2 hours later was back on my way (105 degree day in California - not fun). The tires were only 3 years old with 28k miles (michelin tires with still good tread left on them). In the short distance from when the tire blew to where I pulled off, the tire tore up parts of a storage bay, tail pipe, trim, etc. I took the RV to a repair center and it was just under $1000 to repair the damage - and they fixed rather than replaced some of the trim - it was going to be over $1500. The RV repair center manager told me that 65% of their repairs are due to tires failure. I don't know how additional damage could be attributed to that 1/8 mile, but I could hear the rubber slapping against the underbody. Very important to ensure tires are all properly inflated.

[FreedMeister]

In addition to the tools mentioned, I carry a radial tire plug kit and an assortment of plugs. (I don't carry a torque wrench, as a cheap one is not very accurate, and is heavy). The plug kit can plug a tire without dismounting it. if you pick up a nail, its perfect. Its not as good a repair as one made from the inside of the tire, but it can get you through your trip and back to a real tire shop with minimal interruption.

[THenne1713]

I have BT Cruiser 5245 with an Ford E-350 Super Duty chassis. Per the included Ford owners manual it shows how to change a tire and use the jack but it doesn't say where it is stored. I have searched and can't find one.

Does Gulf Stream not supply a tire jack and tools even though we have a spare tire?


If so what are other owners using?
The 1999 Conquest Limited Class-C Brochure footnoted a "Bumper Jack" came w/ three different floorplan models, (including my 6266) but not other floorplans. I have attempted, but never deciphered what that meant, and internet was no help to date? Cannot see any way "bumper jack" wud work w/ any class-C anyway, and bought hydraulic, lug tools, impact and torque wrench in case needed. Even if just a leveling stabilizer? The standard econoline under-axle screw jack probably not rated for the weight of a RV?

[THenne1713]

Ford OM written around a pickup/ van w/ a 4000# SCREW jack, NOT enough for an RV. BEST is a 6-12 ton hydraulic BOTTLE jack w/ assortment of blocks for height and pair of wheel CHOCKS for diagonal opposite wheel.. ALSO TOOL/ RUBBER HAMMER for hubcap removal, proper sockets/ extensions and BREAKER BAR for removal and 150# TORQUE WRENCH for installation. IMPACT (Battery or 120vac) can be helpful for wheel removal

[CaryL]

Wow - thanks everyone!

Every entry has additional info on different aspects of the tire needs for a motorhome.

This is extremely valuable and much appreciated!

I hope other newbies read this as well and prepares for just-in-case measures that all too often turn out to be actual issues.

I am gathering tools now.
thanks to all, Cary

[Henry111]

As always, Camco has delivered an incredible VR product. We've only used these wheel chocks (https://www.rvhometown.com/best-rv-wheel-chocks/) at 5 different RV parks on our travels to be fair, 2 spots were completely flat and there weren't any movement concerns. I'd probably buy a heavy-duty one for an oversized trailer or RV except for my use it had been perfect.

[MV213]

My 2021 5210 did not come with a jack or lug wrench. It does come with a spare tire, go figure. I picked up a 18” breaker bar, extension, sockets, and a 6-ton hydraulic jack. I tested at home to make sure I could change a tire, and it looks like I could do it if need be. The tire plug kit suggested above is a great alternative that could get you in to a tire shop. I also have a heavy duty 12-volt compressor I carry.

[THenne1713]

The FORD Jack for E-van was SCREW JACK stored in back corner of non-existent location on RV, and jack TOO LOW-RATED for RV. 6-ton maybe fine in tight spaces, if it GO SHORT= will fit under frame at designated AXLE areas (SEE FORD OM) when tire is FLAT AND AXLE LOWERED BY X-INCHES, ON SOFT DIRT/SAND/ MUD/ HOT SOFT ASPHALT***, WITH WOOD BLOCKS TO SPREAD LOAD UNDER JACK/ PREVENT SINKING OR RAISE/LOWER? *** I keep a supply of cardboard behind barrel chair at door for tire or other emergency service needs. Then a TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN TO 150FT# (8-LUG) Most 5-6-lug trucks= lower 100-120ft#