2007 Gulf Stream Tourmaster electrical problem

[henryj]

I've had multiple RV people help me with our problem. They have decided that it is the kill-switch panel on the dashboard. One of them pulled it out, and now there is a loose wire. We don't know where that wire should connect. What I need is a wiring schematic of that kill-switch panel. Thanks! -Jim Henry, Oregon City, OR

[Chuck v]

Henry,


Are you talking about the kill switch to the generator? Does everything still function with the wire disconnected? If not, what are the symptoms?? What were the original symptoms that caused the switch to be suspect??


Chuck

[henryj]

There are two kill switches in front of the passenger seat. One is for the coach and one is for the chassis. The problem started when our coach electrical system went dead. An RV technician said it had to do with those kill switches and he put a jumper wire across one of the solenoids in the back. He said that would disable the kill switches, but that would not be a problem if we kept it plugged in when parked. The next technician said the jumper wire was not necessary and he removed it. Some time later the whole coach electrical system went dead again, so we put the jumper wire back on. The next technician tried to track down the problem and said it was in the kill switch panel. He removed the panel but it would not pull out more than a couple of inches. One of the wires to that panel was just laying there and he said he didn't know where it went without a wiring schematic of that panel. He was going to come back but I haven't been able to get him to return any of my calls (I hope he's ok). Yesterday, my brother-in-law, who is an RV technician, talked me through some trouble-shooting (remotely). There is a circuit breaker in the back that does not register on the voltmeter and he thinks that's because of that loose wire in the back of the kill switch panel. So he also thinks we need to find the wiring schematic for that panel to make sure that loose wire gets connected to the right spot. Thanks for replying - hope this helps. -Jim

[henryj]

I should add that the current symptom is that the ignition is completely dead (no dash lights, no clicking, can't start the engine). When I jumped a wire across that dead circuit breaker, that activated the ignition.

[henryj]

One more thing: My brother-in-law thinks that when the RV technician removed the kill-switch panel, that's when the loose wire got pulled out, and that is the reason the ignition and dashboard are dead.

[Chuck v]

Henry,


Thanks for the added information. These switches are most commonly referred to as "battery disconnect switches". I don't have a schematic for your coach in this area, but do know that the disconnect switches in the stairwell each operate a separate latching high current relay in the rear power bay near the battery banks. Each switch should have a wires going back to the relay -- the number of wires depends upon the type of relay in the power bay (latching relays are made by Intelletec and by KiB) Typical wiring is shown below:


https://nebula.wsimg.com/obj/RTRCMkU0RDUzQ0M1ODE3RDgxMDg6ODZhNWViZDNkZWI5ZGEzOG Q4MWEzYmUwNjFiNWVkYWI6Ojo6OjA=
https://nebula.wsimg.com/obj/RTRCMkU0RDUzQ0M1ODE3RDgxMDg6OGNjMzU4MjJjMjdiMjE4MW M0MTc0Y2Y1ZmM3YTk3MzI6Ojo6OjA=


How many wires are on the step well switch?


Chuck

[henryj]

Thank you, Chuck, for the information and for correcting my terminology! I am anything but an RV technician, but I'm on a steep learning curve.

The RV is stored about 20 minutes from here so I can't directly answer your question about how many wires are on the step well switch. I can say that there are two switches on the panel labeled "Battery disconnects." One switch is labeled "coach" and the other is labeled "chassis." It seems likely that the loose wire should connect to the "chassis" switch because of the ignition and dashboard failures. There are quite a few wires attached to the back of each switch - I'm guessing 6 or 7 wires on each switch.

I've forwarded your information to my brother-in-law. He's done RV repairs for many years and that's his business. However, he lives in CA and I live in OR, so we're about 650 miles apart from each other. I'm sure he will use the information you sent and see if he can figure out what to do. Again, thank you!
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Henry,


I used to have a 2007 T-40C when I lived in Oregon and sold it when I moved to Idaho. The fellow that I sold it to in Portland has since re-sold it so you may have the very vehicle I once had. Does it have the modified under sink storage as shown here? I also added extra drawers in the walk-in closet as pictured...


Chuck

[henryj]

HI CHUCK! YES WE HAVE YOUR TOURMASTER! That's amazing.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


Sorry to have been using the wrong first name in my earlier posts,and I guess Henry is probably your last name.


Yes, it is a small world!! I did quite a number of upgrades to that coach and hope you were made aware of them...here is a short list of the important ones.
1. Replaced the original inverter with a Magnum true sine wave model
2. Replaced the front TV with a 4K HDTV in a larger size
3. Replaced the stock stereo amp with newer Sony receiver/blu-ray player with all HDMI connectivity.
4. Replaced the state room TV with a bigger HDTV and local DVD player
5. Replaced the original washer with a multi-cycle Maytag unit.
6. Added watering system to the front generator/inverter batteries and the main house batteries. Be sure to top off the water at least every 3 to 4 months or so. All batteries including the diesel starting batteries were replaced shortly before I sold the unit in 2018... I also added a high quality float charger to the Chassis battery stack so it remains charged when on shore power.

7. Replaced all 6 tires with new quality tires about a year or so before that. You will likely never wear out the tread on the tires -- just replace them every 8 to 10 years at a maximum.


I have a comment on the issue you have been having with the disconnect relays -- I suspect that the root cause was not the loose wire (which is an artifact of the removal of the panel and tugging enough to have the connector come loose off the switch terminal...) but rather a failed latching relay. After reattaching the wire where it should be, you will very likely find that the chassis latching relay is failing. A good diagnostic method is to test the relay by applying 12 volts to the "latch on" and "latch off" terminals in turn to see if it cycles correctly.


Just like with a regular house, there are maintenance items to be attended to with a big diesel pusher coach. Add to that the vehicle maintenance and periodic service associated with a vehicle. But it is all worth it...I very much enjoyed the time I spent with this fine coach.



Let me know if you have any questions about the coach you "wished you could ask the owner" when changes were made...I should be able to recall a lot of it. There was a large file of documentation that went with the coach -- hopefully you got all of that.


Happy camping!!


Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck,

We purchased the RV from Greg Davis. My wife, Mary Jo, is chemically sensitive and she had no problem with any outgassing or smells in the RV. Plus, it appeared exceptionally well cared for. Greg went over the features and told us many of the things you did to improve it. Thanks for sending the list of the things you did.

We already have a small Class C motorhome, but we wanted a bigger one because we have property in Port Angeles, WA. We want to be able to live on the property, intermittently, while building our house there. With the cost of construction, we don't know when we'll be able to build the house. In the meantime, we're having an RV space prepared on the property and hope to stay on the property in the Tourmaster over July 4 weekend, and then periodically after that. First, we need to get it running!

We have had a number of electrical problems, which as you know we are still working on. I took the RV to Les Schwab, and they said 6 of the 8 batteries needed replacing, so all of the batteries except the two coach batteries in the back were replaced.

At Les Schwab, they said the tires were stamped 2013, and we were told (by a mechanic we trust--not by Les Schwab) that we should replace them after 10 years, so I'm assuming they should be replaced in 2023.

We drove the RV down to California and back. My brother-in-law, Wayne, is an RV mechanic. He fixed a number of things while we were there, including the main heater, water heater, and a few odds and ends. On the way back home, we spent the night at an RV park in Yreka, CA. In the morning, all the coach batteries were dead. We had an RV technician come over and he is the one who put the jump wire on the solenoid in the back. It worked fine after that.

We also had intermittent problems with the windshield wipers. They would run for a while and then just stop. Our mechanic friend replaced the motor and it now works fine.

We had trouble with the transmission, and it wouldn't run. So, we had Freightliner come out. They said the transmission computer needed replacing along with its wiring harness. All of that has been done. That was an expensive job.

The only problems we're dealing with now are the electrical problem that I've described, the main slide out creeps out when the RV is parked, and the bay door on the left hand side in front of the rear tires pops open when driving.

The RV person who came out and whom we cannot contact said he would order some parts to fix the slide-out-creep problem. He was also going to fix the bay door. The slide out is not a deal breaker, but we would like to have it fixed at some point. I can fix the bay door myself - our mechanic fixed a couple of others and so I learned from him what to do.

Thanks for your thoughts about our electrical problem. I will pass that along to our brother-in-law and continue to work with him to try to get it fixed.

So nice to make your acquaintance--virtually!
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


Yes, I bought those tires at Les Schwab and was surprised to see the date codes showed they had them in inventory for more than a year before they were installed...maybe you got the Schwab guarantee paperwork I believe I left with Greg Davis when I sold the rig to him. The tires never have had much UV exposure as I had tire covers for them...but a maximum of a 10 year replacement cycle is a good practice to stick to in any case.


The main heater was having an issue staying lit, but I thought Greg had that fixed...glad to hear you got it sorted. Never had an issue with the wipers, but the washers were not very reliable and the fittings/hoses were starting to show signs of weathering.


Sorry to hear of the transmission computer issue -- that does sound expensive. Allison is pretty proud of their stuff and even the periodic trans fluid change is a bit of a sticker shock due to the number of quarts needed.


The main slide has had a slow drift for the entire time I owned the rig. I looked into getting it fixed, but read that most of the techs had a hard time getting all the drift out. I am attaching a document that may help you test it all -- if it is not a leaking valve it may be the cylinders themselves and that is something you have to decide to fix or accommodate like so many other owners have. See the discussion beginning on page 27 of the attached...


The bay door latches should be adjustable...make sure the strike of the movable latch on the door lines up with the loop on the door frame. If the loop is misaligned, the strike will ride on the side leg and not latch reliably.



Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck - thanks for the further information. You are a wealth of knowledge concerning this particular RV. It's great to be in touch with you as we follow the journey of learning how to maintain such a complex machine. I still work full time so I don't have a ton of time to put into it. I'll be retiring within the next year, and I do look forward to really digging in and learning how to do as much as I can by myself.

The RV is currently parked under cover at an RV storage facility in Canby. I've ordered all the wiring parts to extend the wires on the battery-disconnect panel so that it can be worked on. I'll try to get that done this week and will then have my brother-in-law work with me to try to resolve all the electrical issues. I've already forwarded him your comments about that and he knows what you're speaking of. Thanks so much for that info.

I'll keep you apprised of our progress!
-Jim

[bharbison2500]

I had Custom Cylinders International in Winchester Ky rebuild my slide out cylinder. Their website is https://www.customcylindersintinc.com/.
I an issue with my slide out creeping out while driving. After rebuilding the cylinder it keep creeping out. I added a PO Check valve to the output side of the pump since it was apparent that the PO check valve in the pump failed and the pump was obsolete. I can get you the parts list if it is determined you have the same problem.

Brian

[proost]

Oh! I had a blast reading this thread. It feels like we’re the only Tour Master owners or former owners that are out there even though I know that’s not the case! We have been full-time on the road in our 2007 T40A for a year and a half and have owned the rig for 2 1/2 years and could not be happier. They are well-built but like any other RV, they need maintenance. We have seen only one other on the road.

Jim - sounds like you are working the bugs out of the rig. Depending on how many miles Greg drove since he bought it from Chuck, may tell you whether the coach sat for a while and as we all know, RVs don’t like to sit. Congrats on purchase

For the tires, I have been told that six years is the safe maximum life of an installed tire. When I bought my rig, I had some Les Schwab-installed Double Coin tires installed and they had sat on the shelf there for two years. I had to produce paperwork to show Firebird Tire in Phoenix that the tires had only been installed for four years. The following year, I replaced all of my tires with Sumitomo tires which Firebird swears by. I did this because I noticed some cracking on the side walls My philosophy is that you can never be too conservative on ensuring that your tires are in good condition.

Chuck, thanks so much for sticking with this board and being the sound and voice of experience with these rigs. You know I have used you countless times to help me with mine.

-Phil

[henryj]

Thanks to Brian for the info re: addressing the slide-out-creep problem. I had an RV technician come out to fix the electrical problem, which I think I described above. He was also going to order some parts to fix the creep-out problem. I never heard from him again and have given up leaving messages for him. The slide only creeps out when the RV is sitting, and not when being driven, which seems strange. So, it's not a safety concern - just a nuisance to keep pulling it in when it's parked.

I worked on the battery disconnect panel myself. I made up a bunch of extender wires and hooked them all up so that the back of the panel is now accessible. While doing that, I found two loose wires that I'm guessing were pulled off when the RV technician pulled the panel out. That's when the ignition system went dead. I attached one of those wires to a terminal on the chassis-disconnect switch, and the ignition system now works. I started the engine and ran it for a while.

There's still a problem with the coach-battery-disconnect system. There are two switches on the battery-disconnect panel. The chassis-disconnect switch works now, and the light comes on when switched to "connect." The coach-disconnect switch does not work - the light doesn't come on and switching it makes no difference. My brother-in-law (Wayne the RV expert) told me to replace the solenoid in the back that was originally jumped by a previous RV person to get our electrical system working. I went to NAPA and picked up a solenoid and installed it. That made no difference. We still have a problem. My brother-in-law just had shoulder reconstruction yesterday so he won't be available to help for awhile. In the meantime, the RV is unplugged from 110 and I'll head down there in the next day or two and see what works and what doesn't work.

Another problem I'm having is a bay door that pops open on its own, even when locked. It seems the latch on the door is a little low relative to the loop that it's supposed to latch onto. I took the latch apart but it could not be adjusted. The loop is also attached to the RV with five screws, and I don't see any way to adjust that loop (whatever it's called).

So thankful for all the help and advice!
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


That relay that functions as a house battery disconnect is a LATCHING relay -- I am surprised you can find an exact match locally at NAPA. Do you have pictures and the original manufacturer name and part number? It only gets a momentary pulse of control voltage from the panel mounted rocker switch, so the latching function is critical. Most "solenoids" do not function this way...


As to the bay door latches -- I recall the paddle latch housing on the door is clamped in place via the four screws or nuts on the corners of the assembly on the inside of the door. The whole latch can 'float' a bit in the slightly oversized cutout in the bay door, so you may be able to loosen the mounting hardware and adjust the position to get a better function. As regards the strike loop, its mount may also be able to move a bit if you loosen the mounting bolts/screws so check for that. Hope you can optimize engagement that way. Also check the other end of the bay door for any loose or maladjusted hinge mountings...


Good luck and keep posting back with your progress.



Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck - the man at NAPA said he had two solenoids that looked exactly like the one I pulled off the RV. He called my brother-in-law and they weren't sure, but selected the more expensive of the two ($50). I have the receipt but it only says Part # ST95, Line ECH, Description Solenoid. The solenoid box is down with the RV and I'll bring it back with me when I go down there--probably tomorrow night. Based on what you said, I probably got the wrong one.

Thanks for the suggestions re: the door latch. I did try to shift the latch on the door to line up better with the loop, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I'll loosen the screws on the bracket and see if there is any leeway to move the loop. I'll also check the hinges. The door was always "ajar" but it didn't start popping open while driving until recently.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


Very curious to see if your existing latching relays are Intellitec or maybe KiB brand...as you may guess I did not pay any attention to these parts when I owned the coach. I would be floored if the Napa part was either of these brands/correct parts...


Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck - the solenoid I pulled out of the RV, which two RV technicians told me to replace, is only marked 87-12V and 6CB. The one that I purchased at NAPA is marked ST95 and M21038. It's a NAPA Echlin product. I just called the NAPA store. What I purchased was a "continuous duty" solenoid, and I could have purchased an "ignition-type" solenoid. I mentioned what you said about a "latching relay," but he didn't know what that meant. I guess my question is, should I take back the one I purchased, and where can I find the correct one?
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


It is difficult for me to research this topic without access to the actual parts, but let me start with some terminology:


What NAPA calls a 'continuous duty' solenoid is one that can sustain a constant current through its field windings to keep it pulled in. An 'ignition type' solenoid would be one that is not continuous duty, meant to switch a high current for a short period of time -- like the starter motor on an engine. By contrast, a "latching relay" does not need a steady application of power to its field winding to maintain a switched condition, and can be pulsed into either the ON or OFF state where it remains until the next control voltage pulse.


I suspect the solenoid you got from NAPA looks much like the first image below. The Intelletic is shown in the second image, the KiB in the third, and Cole Hersee in the fourth image. Which one is most like the relay you took out that was the original part???


Chuck
1415

[henryj]

Chuck - I indeed have a lot to learn. Thanks for the descriptions. The solenoid I took out, and the one I purchased at NAPA, look exactly like the first image.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


Curious that the original part was a three terminal device...maybe we are not talking about a battery disconnect relay here. You mentioned that a local guy identified this as the trouble making part initially...maybe it is a case of wrongful identification. There may be a solenoid of this type in the bay to provide the TEMPORARY connection of the house bank with the chassis bank to assist in engine starting when the chassis bank is low...there is a switch on the dash that activates this function (usually marked with a battery icon or similar graphic...or the words battery boost perhaps - I forget the exact marking on that coach.) If you have an assistant, try listening to/feeling the solenoid in question when another person actuates the dash switch -- it should be clear when it pulls in.


If possible, please post a picture of the bay where these relays and electrical devices are located...as I recall it is on the curb side and adjacent to the battery trays. It will help us in our discussions.


Maybe Phil (proost) is still reading this thread and can post a picture of his bay as well for comparison...


Thanks for being patient, long distance trouble shooting by text is not an easy thing...


Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck,
I have lots of photos on my iPhone but do not know how to get them on this post. I have sent them as a text to my brother-in-law's phone and that always works. For some reason, I can't get them to go to an email address. If I could, I could easily attach them to a message.
-Jim

[proost]

Chuck - the solenoid I pulled out of the RV, which two RV technicians told me to replace, is only marked 87-12V and 6CB. The one that I purchased at NAPA is marked ST95 and M21038. It's a NAPA Echlin product. I just called the NAPA store. What I purchased was a "continuous duty" solenoid, and I could have purchased an "ignition-type" solenoid. I mentioned what you said about a "latching relay," but he didn't know what that meant. I guess my question is, should I take back the one I purchased, and where can I find the correct one?
-Jim

Jim, are these what you are talking about?

[henryj]

I recognize both of those, but they are not what I replaced. Chuck's first of four images showed what it looked like.

Thanks!
-Jim

[proost]

Here’s also a picture of the bay to help with the discussion. Since I live in mine, let me know if you need any other details or pics! I can also pop the rocker switch panel to show you how my wiring is configured back there if that would help you.

[Chuck v]

Jim,


The pictures that Phil posted are very useful to our discussions. The upper one shows a paper label on the right end that identifies it as the coach disconnect...this is the one that we should focus on. Please note that there are two fuses integral to this disconnect as shown in my attached mark up of the image. Verify these fuses are intact (usually these are 5 amp fuses, I believe...)


I will send you a private message on this site with some information on how to get your pictures to me...the iPhone is a mystery to me so I can't give you hints on how to make it work for you



Chuck

[henryj]

Thanks, Chuck. I'm pretty sure I checked those fuses. Otherwise, I'll check them next time I go down to the coach, which should be tonight.
-Jim

[proost]

Here’s also a picture of the bay to help with the discussion. Since I live in mine, let me know if you need any other details or pics! I can also pop the rocker switch panel to show you how my wiring is configured back there if that would help you.

Somehow, the attachment didn’t load so here’s the picture of the bay.

[henryj]

Thanks, Phil. That's exactly what my bay looks like. The last RV tech removed the panel with the battery-disconnect switches. However, it would only pull out about an inch, so it was inaccessible. In the process, it appears 1-2 wires were pulled out and were just laying there (2 wires were laying there so I assume they both were pulled off when he pulled the panel out). I extended all of the wires so that the backs of the switches are now accessible. I got the chassis side working, but the coach side is the one that is not working.
-Jim

[proost]

Here’s what I do to upload a photo using iPhone for me.
1 When you reply to the thread, scroll down to “additional options“ until you see manage attachments. Click on that.
2. Then, at the very top you can press a button “choose file” and then immediately after doing that it will ask you if you want to select a photo from your photo library. Select your photo.
3. Once you do that, and the photo has been selected, don’t forget to press the upload button to the right of the screen.
4. Then, select “Close window” at the bottom.

Hope this helps.
- Phil

[henryj]

Thanks, Phil for those instructions. The problem is, I'm using a desktop computer for all of my email (and these postings). The photos are on my iPhone and I can't get them from my iPhone to my computer. Also, I can't access this forum from my iPhone.

If I could just get the photos from my iPhone to my computer, then I could post them.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Jim,


The pictures you sent to me came through OK. I can forward them to e-mail using the 'share' icon on my android phone...


I noticed that your picture showed only the Chassis disconnect relay according to its paper label -- did you also check both fuses on the other one?


Chuck

[henryj]

I'm glad the photos came through ok. I'll be going to the RV again this evening and can take any more photos that you might like to see. I think I've checked most of the fuses, but will check them again today.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

Thanks Jim -- a wide picture of the DC relay bay layout similar to what Phil posted above in his #30 reply would probably be useful...we know the T40C you have may be a bit different from his T40A layout.



I do see a solenoid in his bay similar to the one you sourced at NAPA and suspect this is either the starter solenoid or the battery boost solenoid based on its proximity to the disconnect relays...



Chuck

[Chuck v]

Jim,


Circling back here to update documentation after our phone conversation of yesterday evening. The tests you performed may have pointed to a failed disconnect latching relay. (see the italicized quotation from my e-mail below...) Attached below is the PDF document from Intelletec on their relay and the schematics of how they are used in coaches -- page 8 of the manual is the schematics we were discussing. I am also including text of my e-mail to you this morning, where I pointed out how I overlooked some important items on our simple testing last night...so the issue may still be in the switch itself or in the wiring.


Jim and Wayne,

I overlooked an important detail during last evening’s call that may mean the relay is OK and the wiring is at fault. I am re-attaching the document from Intelletec and will highlight some information here as well.

To operate the latching relay BOTH the “I” and the “S” terminals must have a connection through the rocker switch. We did not do this last evening… To latch ON, the I terminl needs +12 volts and AT THE SAME TIME the S terminal needs a ground connection. To latch the relay OFF, the I terminal needs a ground connection while simultaneously the S terminal needs a +12 volt connection. The momentary nature of the rocker switch ensures that the relay coil is not powered long term in either the ON or the OFF latched state.

Sorry for this oversight – it may still be a bad switch or a wiring issue (it also could still be a bad relay, but further testing will need to involve connections to BOTH small stud connections at the same time as described above…) I should have thought to test the working latching relay, the chassis disconnect, last night as well -- and that would have pointed out the error of my suggested test method. Here is the text from the Intelletec document which I have highlighted to emphasize my error of last evening:
THE RELAY -
The Battery Disconnect Relay is a mechanically latching switch that operates by the momentary application
of battery voltage to the coil terminals in one direction for latching (closed) or the other direction for
unlatching (open).
To close the relay, +12 volts is applied to the “I” terminal and ground to the “S” terminal of the relay. When
this is done, the plunger is pulled into the coil and the contacts are connected. While this happens, the rod
magnet suspended above the plunger is attracted (opposite poles attract) to the top of the plunger by the
magnetic field. See FIGURE 1
When the voltage is removed from the coil, the plunger gets pushed upward by the return spring, but
cannot move because the rod magnet is in the way. See FIGURE 2

To open the relay, +12 volts is applied to the “S” terminal and ground on the “I” terminal. When this is
done, the plunger is again pulled into the coil. However, since the magnetic polarity of the coil is reversed,
the rod magnet is repelled (like poles oppose), and swings out of the way. See FIGURE 3

Sorry for all the confusion, hope this helps isolate the real failure mode and components involved.

Chuck



Also, for those following this thread that might need to source such a part, here is the link that I e-mailed you yesterday...
https://www.rvpartscenter.com/shop-by-categories/list2/electrical-12-volt/battery-isolators,-relays-and-switches/rv-battery-switches-relays/battery-disconnect-relay-by-intellitec-01-00055-000-intellitec-01-00055-000-detail


Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck - thank you for sending the document. I've saved it and will print it off and read it over carefully. And thanks for all your help. I'm looking forward to this issue being resolved once and for all.
-Jim

[THenne1713]

MY suspicion is that if panel inspected closely with FLASHLIGHT & MAGNIFIER AND/OR MIRROR OR MAGNIFY MIRROR, you will be able to determine WHERE the wire goes? MIGHT also require determining what wire/s is keeping panel from coming out further, maybe cut/ splice/ extend to fix that issue if just 1-2 wires?

[Chuck v]

Thanks Theene,


Jim and I have been conversing via phone in real time and have established which wire appears to be missing (or lost behind the panel.) It is not a case of having an extra wire that we are trying to find where it goes, but rather a MISSING wire that needs to go to a known location. Most likely it popped off and is back behind the panel hiding. Jim already extended some wires to give better access...


Chuck

[henryj]

Although I've extended the wires, I've decided to do two more things before doing further diagnosis of the problem. First, I had limited colors for the wires I used to extend each wire about 4 inches. So, I purchased all of the colors, including brown, violet, etc. I will redo the wires so that the right color is on the right terminal on the switch. Second, the spade connector set that I was using has round insulators, which makes them difficult to cram onto the switch terminals, which are really close together. I've ordered new spade connectors that have flat insulators. Once those arrive, I'll redo the extender wires again.
-Jim

[Chuck v]

THene1713,


I just got off the phone with Jim and he found the loose/missing white wire far behind the panel -- reconnecting it and replacing a blown fuse on the Coach Disconnect Relay solved the issues. Love it when a plan comes together! Finding the root cause makes the solution rather obvious.


Thanks JIM for being so patient and letting me talk you through my various musings on what the issues were most likely to be. I enjoyed doing the research to understand how these Intellitec latching relays actually work, and together we were able to map and match the wire color choices Gulf Stream made relative the diagrams posted earlier in this thread. Seems GS uses the house wiring convention of white as neutral versus the automotive convention of black for ground...otherwise it was only a case of their dark brown wire on the rocker switch rocker looking nearly "black" in the harness...


Chuck

[henryj]

Chuck was the key to getting this problem fixed. It has been an ongoing problem and it got exacerbated when an RV technician removed the battery disconnect panel above the stairwell. He could not get the panel out more than about an inch and left saying he needed to get the schematic for the switches so that he could rewire them. I could never get ahold of him after that.

It turns out there were three loose wires behind the switches, which likely were pulled off when the RV technician removed the panel. Each of the two switches has eight terminals, so there are a lot of wires. Chuck guided me through the process of identifying which wire was supposed to go on which terminal.

We're planning on driving the rig up to Port Angeles next Thursday for a week. I'm so very thankful to Chuck for his help and expertise!
-Jim

[zippyphd]

T40B, sometimes the door 'moves' forward 1/2" and won't latch. Slide the door back a little and it should latch again.