Gulf Stream Owners RV Forum - View Single Post - Help with Manual on 2003 Yellowstone CC Class A

Chuck v · 07-11-2022, 10:31 AM

Al,

I am sure you will get lots of help on how to convert to a residential frig for your rig. Let me start with your questions about inverters. Does your rig presently have an inverter? Almost every RV has a CONVERTER which takes shore power in and makes 12 volts to maintain the house batteries and power the low voltage lamp fixtures in the coach. Larger RVs also can have INVERTERS which are powered by batteries and make 110 volt AC for small appliances in the coach. An built-in inverter will usually be about 2000 watts or so, some larger... They can be powered by the house batteries, or from a completely separate battery bank as was the case in my Tour Master.

If you have an INVERTER in your RV at present, what does it run when it is active? What rating is it in watts? Does your coach only have two battery banks? Typically this would be the chassis battery bank (for starting the rig's engine) and the house battery bank for running the interior lights, etc. If you wish to have at least a day or so run time on a residential refrigerator without starting the generator or connecting to shore power, then a third bank (or a substantially increased capacity house bank) is recommended.

The refrigerator in my Tour Master was huge by RV standards -- a 23 cu ft side-by-side residential unit so it consumed a fair amount of power when it ran. As with any RV application of refrigeration, keep the door closed as much as possible when not connected to shore power.

Any 15 amp 115 volt circuit should be adequate for running the residential refrigerator, so the one in that compartment now should suffice. Is it on a separate breaker? Do you know for sure it is live when the generator runs?

Let us know more details about your rig as you determine them...

Chuck

07-11-2022, 10:31 AM	#16
Chuck v Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,027	Al, I am sure you will get lots of help on how to convert to a residential frig for your rig. Let me start with your questions about inverters. Does your rig presently have an inverter? Almost every RV has a CONVERTER which takes shore power in and makes 12 volts to maintain the house batteries and power the low voltage lamp fixtures in the coach. Larger RVs also can have INVERTERS which are powered by batteries and make 110 volt AC for small appliances in the coach. An built-in inverter will usually be about 2000 watts or so, some larger... They can be powered by the house batteries, or from a completely separate battery bank as was the case in my Tour Master. If you have an INVERTER in your RV at present, what does it run when it is active? What rating is it in watts? Does your coach only have two battery banks? Typically this would be the chassis battery bank (for starting the rig's engine) and the house battery bank for running the interior lights, etc. If you wish to have at least a day or so run time on a residential refrigerator without starting the generator or connecting to shore power, then a third bank (or a substantially increased capacity house bank) is recommended. The refrigerator in my Tour Master was huge by RV standards -- a 23 cu ft side-by-side residential unit so it consumed a fair amount of power when it ran. As with any RV application of refrigeration, keep the door closed as much as possible when not connected to shore power. Any 15 amp 115 volt circuit should be adequate for running the residential refrigerator, so the one in that compartment now should suffice. Is it on a separate breaker? Do you know for sure it is live when the generator runs? Let us know more details about your rig as you determine them... Chuck __________________ 2007 Tour Master T40C Acura MDX toad "It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."