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Old 11-09-2020, 10:42 PM   #4
hossross
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Detroit
Posts: 127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR MiMi View Post
We have had RV techs do this in the past. But now the costs exceed $200 for either one. I hear that it's not hard for one to do it. The directions are not in the manual. Could someone tell me how to do this. Thank you so much.
This is my first time with an RV and it is a 2006 BT Cruiser. I looked at several videos and decided to use air to blow the lines out for this reason. They make a big deal out of cleaning the supply lines in the spring by running water for 10 minutes to clear the anti freeze from the lines. That makes sense, but when it comes to protecting the fresh water tank residual water, there is little discussion. The obvious thing is to add antifreeze to that tank also in proportion to the water remaining in the tank. But since the problem is the drains are approximately 1 inch remaining because of the outlet nipple and the routing to the low point drains, I will always have antifreeze in the fresh water supply tank, I can dilute it by adding 40 gallons of water, but never really get rid of it. So if it is important to totally flush the supply lines why not the tank. The problem is there is no way to get all the waterout of the tank. I used air to push out all I could, leveled the RV for best draining , but the outlet nipples are just to high. I cut a hole in the top so I could suck out all the water, and then got a blind bulkhead fitting to reseal the top. I don't know if most just add anti freeze to the fresh water and drink diluted next spring, of if my tank is unique in not draining, or if people consider 1 inch of frozen water in a big tank will not cause damage ( I prefer not to have ice pushing on polyprolene) as the potential damage of a leak at the bottom of the tank could cause a lot of floor rot. How are most winterizing the water tank. Also if you choose to use either air or antifreeze, remember to purge both the shower head and the tub fill.
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