View Single Post
Old 01-04-2021, 10:42 AM   #4
bharbison2500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Georgetown
Posts: 31
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hossross View Post
Nice installation. I do have some questions on the electrical wiring.
1. Do you use an inverter? if so what is the wattage (running or steady state) That is serious 12volt amperage (150A)
2. What is the shore power amperage 30A or 50A?
3. It sounds like you added the stove power to other 110 outlets, The cook top if using both heaters is over 16 amps. I can only assume the toaster and coffee maker is on a different circuit as the cook top is at the limit of 16 gauge wire already.
I appreciate it works for you, but I think there is additional conditions and concerns that need to be understood before others make the conversion

The wiring is 14AWG for all 120VAC outlets in the coach which is rated at 15Amps. There are only two outlets in the coach that are on Shore power, the bathroom GFCI and the GFCI in the shore power compartment. Shore power is 50A. All other outlets are on Inverter power.

I upgraded the 1000Watt inverter to a 3000Watt Xantrex Freedom SW3012. You do have to monitor what you are running since the Inverter has 30A available. I can monitor each load by looking at Xantrex Control panel.

There are two circuits ran to my slideout. One for the microwave and one for the 3 outlets. The cooktop is tied in with the three outlets. The FLA on the cooktop is 14A with both burners on at 900watt each, the math says 15A but Inverter SCP read 14A. We only used one burner to cook with at 5-700wats for eggs (4-5Amps). The Keurig when heating up was 11A but only 2A brewing. Our toaster ran at 7.5Amps. We never exceed 15A on that circuit by balancing when devices were used. Obviously if you unfamiliar with principals of electricity and load management you should not do what I did. The best practice would be to add another circuit from the main breaker panel since you would not be cooking while you are moving and the load would eat your batteries. Using a Kill-a-watt meter will give the watts and amperage of each load if you do not have the Xantrex SCP, which in turn will give you the information you need to load balance.
bharbison2500 is offline   Reply With Quote