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Old 09-12-2022, 09:43 AM   #6
Mike1931
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AppliedThinking View Post
Good points all. I finally got the time to troubleshoot the RV fuel pump. I installed a fuel line pressure gauge on the engine fuel rail and confirmed that I had no pressure (supposed to be 35-40psi). I looked at the fuses in the power distribution panel and they all looked good. Also verified that all the battery disconnect relays (chassis and coach) were at the proper voltage when turned on. Pulled the fuel pump relay and ordered a new one from Amazon. There is another row of 4 external relays next to the ones in the distro box that is not shown in the ford chassis manual. No clue what they do. There is only three things beyond the fuel pump relay and that is the connector on top of the fuel tank, the fuel filter and finally the fuel pump.
I am praying its not the pump. I did try and start the engine and it did fire for a brief instant.


I did not think of adding an external inline fuel pump. I just happen to have one that I use to transfer fuel from portable marine tanks to the vehicles. Hmm food for thought.


BTW, this is a Class A


If it boils down to the in-tank fuel pump. I will have to figure out a way to empty a full tank first. Its not a hard job to drop the tank but a serious challenge with any fuel in the tank. Lessons learned 10years ago when I did it the last time.
Sounds like you are on the right path.
Note; you could pull the line to the booster pump and see it it’s getting fuel. But again, the booster pump has to get enough fuel to boost.
External electric fuel pump, if used needs to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible. Electric pumps are designed to push fuel “not suck fuel” so keep that in mind. If you go with external pump, make sure you put a fuze in the electrical wires going to it, maybe a separate switch too.
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