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Old 09-26-2023, 10:17 AM   #1
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Default 2021 GS 6237LE Sport Cabin Battery Charger

Quick question - does anyone have the manual on the inverter/charger for the House Battery on a 2021 6237LE MH?


Long explanation - I purchased a used MH and it only has a few of the manual. It contains a large Fridge/Freezer that only runs on Cabin Battery. The draw is high enough (I can't say what the exact draw is because I haven't measured it yet) that in 12 hours the house battery is almost dead and I have to run the generator, or plug it in. Not so easy to do in some state parks/locations. The battery is also a wet cell type battery way under the frame and almost impossible to check/fill as required. I am thinking on making a new mounting bracket that would swing down, that I could mount 3 or 4 house batteries on. I'm trying to figure out the best battery option - I could go with 6V golf cart batteries (but would still have to worry about water level), I could go with a gel battery (like the Optima Deep Cycles) or I could go with Li-PO batteries. But, I know the inverter/charger could influence my choice (unless I'm willing to replace it too). This is why I'm trying to gather info on the unit.


Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-26-2023, 10:58 AM   #2
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Is this refrigerator a residential one (that only runs on 110 VAC via an inverter)? If so then 12 hours of inverter is about what you would expect... This fridge should also run on the AC from generator directly and on the 110V shore power.



Was this refrigerator a replacement for a propane unit that has failed? Maybe the risk of fire cause the prior owner to make a conversion... Some pictures and the model number/manufacturer's name on your present refrigerator would be useful to this discussion, as we could look up the actual power requirements.


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Old 09-26-2023, 02:55 PM   #3
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Chuck,


Attached are photos of the fridge / label inside. It is an EVER CHILL brand that runs on 12VDC (rated amperage 14.5A). It looks like this may have been an original install (but I don't know that for a fact). There is no propane grill for it on the exterior, just grills for the hot water heater and another for the furnace. Maybe I should have taken a picture of the outside too? Not being the original owner, I don't know how it ended up with this fridge unit. I don't know the original owner as it was a repossession when we purchased it.



It does stay running when plugged into shore power or when the generator is running, but I'm sure that is off of the battery / battery charger.


Thanks!
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File Type: jpg IMG_3948.jpg (112.0 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-26-2023, 07:23 PM   #4
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Curious -- this is a compressor driven 12 volt refrigerator, similar to those used in remote homes running exclusively on solar chargers and large battery banks. It does not need an inverter, nor would benefit from one.


It appears this type of DC only unit was also found on some Forest River RVs, and they have a poor record regarding performance, etc. Attached is a manual if you don't have one...


Well a bit too large to attach -- here is a link:
https://forestriverinc.com/files/Com...n%20Manual.pdf



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Old 09-26-2023, 08:18 PM   #5
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...here is the important part of the manual...
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Old 09-27-2023, 12:24 PM   #6
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Chuck,


Thanks for the manual. Looking at the manual and sticker inside, the unit draws a max of 14.5A. Assuming an average usage of 10A, on a 100AH Lead battery, it would only take 5 hours to draw the battery down to its 50% discharge max value. Realistically, it probably is only running 1/2 time if we don't keep getting in/out of it. Given I'm only recharging the batteries every 12 hours or so, I'm probably drawing them down into dangerous territory (shortening their life). Also, given how hard they are to do proper maintenance, I'm probably in even worst shape! This is why I'm considering replacing them with AGM or LiKePO4 batteries and increasing the max AH rating (bigger or more batteries).



My concern with the LiFePO4 batteries (aside from the incredible upfront price difference), is that somewhere I read that the charger should be rated for them (different charging requirements from Lead-Acid). I'm ultimately looking for info on the Charger unit so I can figure out if I need to replace it too.
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Old 09-27-2023, 01:00 PM   #7
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Yes those special lithium batteries have special charging needs, but many units have charge controllers built in (this is why they can be costly...) You would still need a replacement converter, however.

Does your class C coach have propane on board for other uses (furnace, range top, oven...)? If so and you plan lots of dry camping without access to shore power and don't want to run the generator a lot, you may be well served to convert that refrigerator to a similar sized propane unit -- as you note you would need to add venting and an exhaust chimney.

Adding enough additional batteries in a bank adequate for a reasonable weekend of dry camping may not be any simpler nor less costly than a change out of the refer, particularly if you include a good solar system. And the added space needed for bulky batteries may not be very available on such a compact RV...

It can be a challenging issue no matter what direction you choose to go. Keep us posted.

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Old 09-27-2023, 03:22 PM   #8
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Some of these 12 compressor RV refrigerators seem to be a bit more efficient, with the 10 cu ft one sold under the RecPro name using a max 7 amps starting and 1 amp running... That certainly would be very much more likely to run continuously off a couple of deep cycle batteries with simple solar charging backup, as their data sheet suggests.


https://www.recpro.com/rv-refrigerat...CABEgJ_sfD_BwE


Maybe your existing unit is nearly this efficient also, but it does not sound like it given your description of it draining your battery overnight...and its 14.5 amp draw is twice that of the RecPro specification.


Some on-line reviews even suggest that these two brandings are the same unit in actuality...


Since the Norcold and Dometic 10 cu ft compressor units are also claiming 15 amp max and about 8 amps running -- it is likely that 7 or 8 amps is the "nominal' draw for all of these units, with the 1 amp listed being the defrost heater... Planning for a continuous 8 amps of 12 volts means you will need a multiple battery bank and a good solar system for dry camping.




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Old 10-01-2023, 08:56 PM   #9
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First, when looking for a manual for an appliance/ accessory, you do NOT need MH model, you need the BRAND/ MODEL # OF THE DEVICE?
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Old 10-01-2023, 09:05 PM   #10
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USE THE BRAND/ MODEL# and google to find OWNER MANUAL in PDF format; Also search for SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS LIST/ PARTS MANUAL for same; build your digital library, save to one master folder, with subfolders by BRAND NAME. Then you can one-click copy to a FLASH DRIVE?
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