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Old 08-23-2022, 10:05 AM   #21
Tonyf
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Originally Posted by Rvguy View Post
Thank you for the detailed message much appreciated again. I have ordered front and rear anti swaybars.
Hopefully the rubber stops help a little bit with the ride and I am in the process to order a safe plus T stabilizer taking some measurements now.
Please post some pictures and part numbers for the steering stabilizer once you get it figured out. This is something I'd be interested in too.
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Old 08-23-2022, 10:10 AM   #22
hossross
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Just so everyone has the same understanding. Springs hold the "load" up Shocks are dampers ie they only stop the bounce the faster the bounce the better they work. Shocks do nothing to stop the vehicle role when pulling into a drive way or in a steady cross wind. Roll bars are made to reduce the vehicle roll. They are rods or tubes that connect opposite wheels together so as 1 side goes down, the other side wants to go up (classic vehicle roll) the Wheel verticle force goes up proportional to the amount of roll.
Multiple Leaf springs have a variable spring RATE, Coil springs are a constant spring RATE, unless the spring coil diameter is made conical or the wire diameter is tapered. The last 2 I've not heard of being applied to Trucks, some cars use those features to optimize ride vs handling. Also leaf springs inheritly have some damping from friction as the individual leafs slide when deflected. So you all want to increase the Wheel force to stop a wheel from moving up, which stops the vehicle roll. Spring RATE, is how to do that. Ideally you want a VARIABLE Spring RATE which means the force goes up faster (non-linear) where just adding "bigger or more parts" makes the force go up linear. ie if 1inch of deflection is 500 pounds then 2 inches will be 1000 pounds of verticle force at the spring. I appreciate this is technical, but maybe it will help some to at least understand that shocks and damping will have little effect on roll, especially if the roll is slow, in a sudden wind gust it can have an effect because the roll is fast When you are dealing with suppliers, ask them the spring rate so you have some idea of the amount of change you are getting. If the suspension has coil springs the wheel rate is not the spring rate, on a leaf spring it is Also keep asking those who have made the changes what the end result is, many can tell you the P/N they used, but dont say much about the result. Also because vehicle dynamics is lots of differing conditions, ask specifically about the condition you want to improve. ie roll when pulling into a drive way, stability when a semi truck is passing you, amount of roll when going around a highway curve, etc as each condition CAN have a different best solution, Roll is a typical problem, because the chassis manufacture probably chose parts where the cargo load is below cab height, your high boxes have a difference center of gravity, ie possibly higher hence the original parts were not optimized for your cargo. I don't know why the motor home mfgs don't insist on the chassis mfg providing a more specific set up. Also for those operating the Ford 350 or 450, get the front suspension adjusted to get more than 6 degrees of caster, Ford specs allow 0 degrees and hence the steering is vague and wondering. Higher the caster the more the vehicle will be like an arrow, wanting to go straight ahead.
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Old 08-23-2022, 10:12 AM   #23
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You got it. I'll send the part number and pictures. I took measurements sending it over to their technical team for review.

I think for now. I'll add front and rear sway bars. Safe t. And replace my front shocks.
Since all the above are straight forward bolt on installations.

I'll look into the rear shocks and rubber springs and or leaf helpers for a future project.

I'll keep you posted.

Thank you for all your help.
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Old 08-23-2022, 10:49 AM   #24
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Hello

I appreciate the feedback. Great information.

My MH has a rough ride. From reading a bunch of forums. I figured adding for now. Front and rear sway bars. Steering stabilizer and replacing my front shocks. (MH has 45k miles) will help a little with the ride and crosswinds.

Rear shocks/ leaf helpers/ bump stops "rubber springs" was going to be my next project. I am still learning about each one to see what advantages and disadvantages I may have.
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Old 08-25-2022, 11:19 AM   #25
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Here you go from: (hope this helps)
Safe T plus reply:
You will need the 41-230(Blue Unit) $589.00 and the G-002K3(Mounting Hardware Kit) $75.00.
I have attached some installation images and instructions. To order direct, please call the number below.
They emailed me instructions.
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Old 08-26-2022, 02:03 PM   #26
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If rough ride is your complaint, that is caused by spring rates mostly rear. This is why the air bags make a big change in ride. However you choose to lower spring rate, ie take out a leaf, go to lower spring rate package, you loose on roll rate. So you need to add bigger roll bars to basically increase the spring rate on the low side when cornering. Remember shocks are only velocity activated devices. Hence they work on bumps where the vehicle is suddenly launched upward, and then rebounds downward. Shock can have a different amount of damping force in jounce (wheel going upward) than rebound (wheel going downward) the slow roll you experience in going around a curve will not be effected by any shock change significantly if at all. Thats were roll bars make a difference

A good spring shop should know all this , Spring in series, ie stacked if all are active usually lowers the overall spring rate. Don't confuse rate with force, Im a recovering automotive engineer, so all this is known, but typically not understood by the user and shops that want to sell shocks. Remember springs are only to support the load to a desired height and you want the lowest spring rate possible to do that if ride is important. a solid block or rubber block is a very high rate, just rides like a lumber wagon because they have no springs either. So more spring rate than needed is an uncomfortable ride. Tires should not be overlooked, radials are much better riding than belted, because the tire is also a spring when going over road variances. Hope this helps, just trying to help make the changes you desire. Go weight your vehicle axle by axle to see what you are working with for Load. Best to have the coach loaded with how you most typically travel ie how much water, at least 1/2 tank fuel, black and grey tanks at typical. and what ever gear placed where you would travel with it. Then I'd recommend going back and getting reweighted with all tanks full (if black and grey are full, then minimun in fresh water, want to be realistic operating condition) and of course all the gear for your max vacation. I'd then look at the difference and decide what axle weight I want to design springs to. I'd put on shocks with maximum damping and maximum roll bars available front and rear.
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Old 08-28-2022, 11:03 AM   #27
Tonyf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rvguy View Post
Here you go from: (hope this helps)
Safe T plus reply:
You will need the 41-230(Blue Unit) $589.00 and the G-002K3(Mounting Hardware Kit) $75.00.
I have attached some installation images and instructions. To order direct, please call the number below.
They emailed me instructions.
Thanks! I've ordered the mounting bracket, then after I take a look at it and the instructions, I will order the stabilizer.
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Old 08-28-2022, 08:48 PM   #28
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Personally I would not spend the money for the shocks and sway bars. Just save the cash and install the rear air ride and you will be extremely happy. No more sway, harsh ride is gone and the 6400 becomes truly enjoyable truck to drive.

2010 6400 with air ride.
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Old 08-28-2022, 09:06 PM   #29
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When I purchased my 6400 the air ride was not working due to a massive air leak. I can say the stock 6400 ride is horrible on anything but a smooth paved road. However if you go over an expansion joint, pothole, bridge joint, or even a stick in the road it feels like the coach is going to brake the rear half off. Drive it long enough and the rear cabinets, TV or anything else on the walls will be broken and on the floor. However once I fixed the air leak it is totally different. You still may get a little bounce in the back (shocks would help this) but all the other issues are gone.

As a side note prior to purchasing my GS I had a super C built on a Kodiak truck chassis. I put sway bars shocks on this rig and it helped, but not much. I can also say the 6400 with air ride and no rear shocks drives way better than the Kodiak ever dreamed of driving.
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Old 10-17-2022, 01:32 PM   #30
Rvguy
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Hello,

Have you installed the unit?

I ordered the plate haven't had time to look into the rest.

Was hoping if you did maybe share some install pics?
Thank you
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Old 10-21-2022, 02:44 PM   #31
Tonyf
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Originally Posted by Rvguy View Post
Hello,

Have you installed the unit?

I ordered the plate haven't had time to look into the rest.

Was hoping if you did maybe share some install pics?
Thank you

Just saw this, here you go. Hardest part was getting the front tires pointed exactly straight ahead, the unit is self-centering so if it's off center, it will pull the MH to one side or another.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7282.JPG (272.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7281.JPG (233.1 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7280.JPG (323.6 KB, 4 views)
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:15 PM   #32
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Awesome thank you so much!!!!

This helps.

I'm about to tackle the front and rear sway bars install this week.
If you have time do you mind sharing your install photos for quidance. Thanks again!
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:21 PM   #33
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Awesome thank you so much!!!!

This helps.

I'm about to tackle the front and rear sway bars install this week.
If you have time do you mind sharing your install photos for quidance. Thanks again!
Here's what I have...

https://www.gsowners.com/forums/show...7&postcount=14

Hope it helps!
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:28 PM   #34
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Thank you again!!!
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