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Old 10-25-2021, 11:24 PM   #1
Trnelson
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Default Slide problems

Hello:

I have a Conquest 6320. Year 2017.

2 slides. One large, for the main living area. One small for the master.

The larger slide never really worked well. Got to the point where we would need to assist by pushing out/in during actuation. Immediately brought up to dealer, who supposedly fixed the problem. I don’t think so. Over this last summer, one side appeared to get stuck after about 6” or so of travel. No foreign bodies seemed to be present. We were annoyed, but didn’t let it affect our family vacation. Unfortunately, have not been able to make time to get it to the dealer.

Fast forward a few months. My wife and I are currently on a trip in the UP and this AM, the smaller slide started acting up in the same darn way. One side seems to get stuck and then then the motors stop. The prior evening, we were able to extend without difficultly. But this AM the slide would not retract. BTW - for the smaller slide, we never had to apply any sort of ‘assistance’. But after it jammed, I did try to provide some assistive force to help it retract but this was not successful. Again, nothing foreign is present. We did contact the dealer as we obviously cannot operate on the roads with an extended slide. A recommendation was made to reset the controller, which we did without difficulty, but this did not fix the problem. I also noticed 8 red flashes on the controller, which according to the key on the controller, means that there is a ‘short’. I inspected all the cables and the connection points. I cannot find anything wrong with the harnesses. Alas, we were able to get the thing to retract a few inches at a time, to a point where it was safe to operate the vehicle, but the slide was not completely flush.

Question 1: What is going on? I realize that is a difficult question because you are not here to inspect, but any theories?

Question 2: How are these things bypassed? There must be a way to manually retract the slides in the event on a failure, but I cannot figure it out. We bought the RV new, and it came with a stack of papers regarding all the components, but nothing was included regarding the slides. I believe the slide is made by Lippert, but I cannot find any information about it on their website. There is a lot of stuff on slides, but they don’t seem to match ours.

Considering that 2 slides have failed in the same fashion, I can’t be the only one with this problem. Any one else there with experience with this?

I have a background in electrical engineering and brought a rather comprehensive tool kit with me just in case there was a problem. I am not afraid to take the whole darn thing apart. Along those lines, I am also thinking my time with the 6320 is just, about, up.

Thanks,
Todd
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Old 10-31-2021, 09:38 AM   #2
RY469
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You are describing typical failure modes of the Schwintek slide system. You can click on support at bottom of page at LCI1.com and download manuals. The eight blinks (shorted) indication quite often is the motor over torqueing, causing a high current situation. The controller senses current levels to operate. Best thing you can do is get a good tech to fix it for you. There are several things that can cause this type of issue. I'm factory trained on Schwintek systems and am also a (retired) electrical engineer like yourself . . . And the Schwintek systems annoy the heck out of me. I work on them frequently. If in Chicago area, bring it to my Dealership.
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Old 10-31-2021, 01:18 PM   #3
BobClearyJr
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We bought our motorhome in 2013. It is a 2011 Gulfstream Yellowstone Class-C. It was delivered as new to the dealer in 2012. Between his receiving it and selling it to us he rented it, so Gulfstream trashed the manufacturer warranty. The dealer sold us an extended warranty from United States Warranty Corporation, 6140 Parkland Blvd., Ste #230, Mayfield Heights, OH 44124, for $1630.00 for 7 years (expires the end of this year).

We brought it to Camping World in Lakewood, NJ, the following spring to have two vent fans installed and vent covers put over the other two vents. While it was there, we had them do their 45-point inspection. They found and fixed a propane leak that we did not know about. As part of this inspection, they inspected the slides, and we would learn about a year later that the extended warranty company would not cover any slide repairs if they had not been inspected within two years. We had paid extra on the insurance to cover the slides and the raised roof.

First slide problem: We noticed that the front legs of the couch were dragging the floor when the slide went in and out and the couch (and floor) were rocking. We brought it to Pocono RV in Wind Gap, PA, for the repair. The insurance inspector required the floor be removed before doing an inspection and then determined that the problem was a design flaw in a bracket, so not covered, $4,000 out of my pocket.

Second slide problem: The other slide had one of the support rollers push through the floor. There was a moisture barrier that looked like the plastic that they use for black trash bags, and it ripped, and the humidity soaked the particle board making it soft. Well two years earlier when Pocono RV did the repair, we had them do the 45-point inspection, so that was covered. This time we brought the rig to Camping World in Kingston, NY. They did a far superior job on this slide that was twice the size of the first slide than Pocono RV did, including a moisture barrier that is made of hard plastic and metal runners over the rollers, $9,000. Again, the insurance said it was not covered because it was not the mechanism that moves the slide in and out.

Third slide problem: Both slides were having issues. The one with the stove and couch would stop about half an inch short of fully closing and the big one with the master bedroom furniture and bunk beds would make a loud clunk sound and stop either halfway in or out and stop unless I helped by pushing. We brought it to Pocono RV again, their only advantage is location. I thought for sure with problems moving the slides in and out that this should be covered. NO, the insurance company said that they do not cover adjustments and lubrication, $800 out of my pocket.

In the seven years we have had the policy only a control board in the refrigerator has been covered. I paid the deductible of $50.00, the insurance covered the rest, $100.00.
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Old 10-31-2021, 03:58 PM   #4
THenne1713
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I suspect I would identify BRAND**/ MODEL, AND DOWNLOAD, all MANUALS, (OWNER, PARTS, SERVICE) and find procedure to manually retract; did that with my 1999 Model DEWALD Hydraulic and practiced in the driveway before ever taking out; if yours is electric/ gear, there are still manual procedures in the books. Most problems are either water damage= loose hardware/ loose screws/bolts. or bad motor/ gears for gear drive. If gear drive, I suggest identifying part # and shopping spare motors? YOU CAN change a motor, no dealer needed. Or remove MOTOR, disassemble/ inspect, reassemble? There are several electric/ gear drive used, and most NOW owned/ bought out by LIPPERT/ LCI? (last time I looked?) luck to ya. Provide more info/ pics and (maybe?) we can help more? ** Sometimes, list of MFR is in back of OWNER MANUAL??
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Old 10-31-2021, 04:17 PM   #5
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TIP: I Have read that MANY slide issues are caused low battery issues, so I might suggest you would LOAD TEST/ SERVICE BATTERY/IES FIRST?
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Old 04-11-2022, 10:36 AM   #6
sdfraze
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Did you practice extending the hydraulic slide out manually? I have a 2001 Gulfstream with a Dewalds hydraulic pump. The instructions at the pump says it will manually retract but doesn't mention manually extending. Is that possible?
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Old 04-16-2022, 09:59 AM   #7
hossross
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Wow, Sorry you got to pay for the warranty and then pay for most all the repairs. My coach was used, I was too cheap to pay for a warranty anyway. My slide was slow, so I lubed all the perimeter wiper seals which helped. Also notice heavy rubbing mark on the carpet on front side of slide out. Found the floor deteriorating because of water leak for poor sealing, which caused multiple cascading failures. Also found the shredded Harbor Freight deteriorating plastic tarp ie worse than garbage bag material that the roller runs on. Long story short, I bought treated 1/4 plywood, and a 12 foot by 4 foot piece of 1/8 aluminum and rebuilt the bottom from the outside of the slide by working inside and out. Secured the inboard edge of aluminum with additional rollers and drilled new holes through the new bottom materials to secure with sheet metal screws into the base plate of the outside slide out walls. Of course the couch anchors points to clamp the new floor to the inside of the slide box. Now the bottom outside is all metal and the 2 outboard rollers run on the metal. Must use 6061 T4 Aluminum. It requires saw cutting but anything softer would yield to the rollers and eventually make a track. Moral of the story make sure every seam is water proofed. All this happened before I got the coach and didn't know the signs to be wary of. I paid to have a gulf stream dealer inspect the RV and that mechanic never noticed or pointed out the floor Slide problem and I repaired 6 months later, so it didn't deteriorate that fast. I don't know who you trust for RV technical support. For sure a warranty wouldn't have helped me, and I'm sure my repair is superior to any done at a dealership. BTW the aluminum was less than $200 delivered on a pallet to my driveway. I only went to metal because plywood didn't come that long and I didn't want a seam on the outside, but it turned out to be I think a far superior solution in the outside bottom is now metal and not sensitive to water absorption and provides the best surface for the support rollers.
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