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Old 12-14-2019, 06:47 PM   #21
Sundancer268
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I suppose I could move them to OneDrive and make them public, Just don't know how to do that on the forum
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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Old 12-14-2019, 06:52 PM   #22
CoachStreamr
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Here is my Coach's Battery Control Center (BCC).

The label on that circuit board's one component is labeled:

INTELLITEC
00-00287-101
25094
BCC D-W/D


I don't know what the specific Intellitech BCC board model is though it looks similiar to a model 500. Ours is the Diesel version, likes yours.


.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20171014_100323-P35.jpg (281.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 20171014_100458-P40.jpg (269.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20171014_100418-P40.jpg (349.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg 20171018_092618.jpg (232.1 KB, 2 views)
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1995 36' Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser (Model #8360) on 1995 Spartan EC-2442 Chassis w/Air Ride | Cummins B5.9L 12V 230hp | Allison MD3060 6-Speed WTEC II
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:38 PM   #23
Sundancer268
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Almost the same, where you have 25094, I have 15394. That might just be the serial number ans as my coach is older, it stand to reason I would have a lower number. I tried to attach an Excel Spread sheet that has all the information I have collected on my coach, but the site will not let me. It is part of a larger spread sheet I keep all my Maintenance, Trip information, Fuel useage etc. I add to it as I find out new information.
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:55 PM   #24
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I'll PM you here, perhaps you can email me your spreadsheet.

Do you know the BCC model number of yours and the BCC circuit board part #?

I was looking at this site and comparing the different circuit boards:

https://www.mmrvelectronics.com/battery-control-centers

Apparently, if these older boards need repair and you call Intelletec, they will refer you to Chris Bayus at M&M RV Electronics (website linked above).

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/ind...topic=121382.0

I don't have issues but would like the BCC circuit board part # and BCC Model number so I can be more prepared if something does happen.

Perhaps that last number is a serial number.. Interesting...

.
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Old 12-14-2019, 08:14 PM   #25
Sundancer268
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I don't have that info right now on the board. Spread Sheet sent. If you are familiar with AutoCAD, I have several drawings I have made of the BCC and other systems in my coach, might be adaptable for your coach. At least it would give you a starting point to do your own drawings. Since retiring, I have switched to NanoCAD free to continue my drawings, not as easy for me as I was using AutoCAD LT for 20 years at work and the NanoCAD menues are not the same and I have to hunt for the commands I want.
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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Old 12-14-2019, 08:36 PM   #26
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I'd love to look at those AutoCAD drawings and add them to my document library. Sent to the same email address. They may come in handy.

Thank you so much

I found an entire BCC with that same top number for sale but the board is different and there is another Solenoid so it probably was for another Manufacturer's Coach.

.
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Old 12-15-2019, 10:29 AM   #27
Sundancer268
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I modified the Board on my BCC so I could install a B.I.R.D. Diesel 2 for the battery charging function. It was not working properly on the BCC so I disabled that function and everything now works properly. I also designed and installed a system to silence the Jacks down and Spartan Alarm Horn for the long pump-up time on the Air Tanks. It works good except once silenced it will not reset unless you shut off the ignition. When I first got my coach, the original owner had unplugged the horn on the Spartan Alarm System. It is annoying, but I am glad I hooked it back up. On the way home, we threw the Serpentine Belt and if I had not got the low coolant alarm we would have destroyed the engine. I had not noticed we were overheating as the gauge was behind the steering wheel and I did not see the temp climbing. The coach was new to us at the time and it was a learning curve. We over flowed the Black Tank in the Bathroom flushing the Fresh Water System. That is when I found out the Bathroom Sink drains to the Black Tank instead of the Gray like all my previous RVs. There are many other modifications I have made over the last 10 years to better suit out wants and needs. Now that I have retired, I can spend more time on the coach. Next major Mod will be the WET Bay, I need to add some permanent mount Water Filters and re-arrange the Sewer Dumps if possible, I think GS did a terrible job on the Sewer Hose Connections and I want to see if there are any alternatives, maybe not but I will not know unless I try.
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
I modified the Board on my BCC so I could install a B.I.R.D. Diesel 2 for the battery charging function. It was not working properly on the BCC so I disabled that function and everything now works properly.
Are you saying (before your BIRD mod) that:
1) Alternator (Cummins on) would charge both the Chassis and Coach/House Battery banks.
2) While on Shore Power (Cummins off), both banks could be charged?

What was the behavior with your Generator on (Cummins off) for both Battery banks?

When our Coach's Cummins is running, the Alternator only charges the Chassis Batteries.
When on Shore Power, only the Coach/House Batteries are charged.

I thought our Coach's charging behavior was normal for these GS Scenic Cruisers.

BTW, been going through your onedrive pics and docs.

.
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1995 36' Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser (Model #8360) on 1995 Spartan EC-2442 Chassis w/Air Ride | Cummins B5.9L 12V 230hp | Allison MD3060 6-Speed WTEC II
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Old 12-15-2019, 08:22 PM   #29
Sundancer268
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No that is not normal, at the very least the Engine should be charging both Coach and Chassis batteries and IF I am remembering right the Inverter either on Generator or Shore Power is suppose to charge the same after the Coach batteries are up to sufficient power. I was reading that in one of the manuals Intellect sent me. That is why I wanted to fix the BCC. I found it was cheaper at the time to add the B.I.R.D. Diesel 2 instead of chasing around for an obsolete part with no guarantees it would work. I did not know of any repair service available and did not really think of looking into that. I am happy with the way the system is working now. I did have to replace the combiner relay on the Passenger rear rail because it would not pass any current. That is the same relay controlled by the switch on the dash used to jumper the house and chassis batteries together. You could hear it clicking when my wife pushed the switch, but the contacts were not passing current. Expensive relay as it has to be a continuous duty relay vise a momentary duty like a starter relay. Any way the general operation is that the battery normally charged by it's primary source, Alternator or Inverter has to reach a certain voltage for x amount of time at which point the BCC/B.I.R.D controller will activate the combiner relay to connect both banks together to be charged. Some cheaper systems will only work when the alternator is charging and the better systems work in both directions. I think though not 100% certain that the BCC was suppose to be the better system. Easy enough to find out, just run the engine while disconnected from shore power and measure the voltage on both battery banks, they should both be above 13 volts if they are receiving a charge from the alternator. More than likely the voltage will be at least 14 plus on the chassis batteries and slightly less on the house batteries due to voltage drop on the wires between the batteries. Then do the same thing with the coach re-plugged back into shore power and check both banks. If it is Bi-Directional the chassis battery will be slightly less than the house batteries. The alternator voltage will very due to outside temperature with a higher voltage the colder it gets.
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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Old 12-19-2019, 05:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
No that is not normal, at the very least the Engine should be charging both Coach and Chassis batteries
Is this how it should work it should work on our Scenic Cruisers (his is a generation newer than both our Scenic Cruisers)?

http://www.gsowners.com/forums/showp...90&postcount=6
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayChez1 View Post
The engine alternator charges the chassis batteries first, once they are charged then the bi-directional relay will start charging the house batteries.

Now to jump start the engine with the house batteries just press the rocking switch down and hold it for a few seconds and it will crank right up.

Now while I am hooked up to shore power only the house batteries get charged up with the inverter/charger on my Scenic Cruiser.
On Shore Power, our Chassis batteries do not get charged, only the Coach/House batteries (I've check the voltage on both banks several times). The Converter/Charger only connects to Coach/House batteries though that bank is connected towards the BCC (and/or a isolator Relay) and perhaps the system should the Chassis bank on Shore Power. I just don't know if it was designed to do so. EDIT: On further thought, I think the Converter/Charges (under bed) wires go towards the BCC (front of Coach, Driver's side) and not directly to the Coach/House bank at the rear Drivers bay. I may have to take the time to trace those wires.

With Engine running, the Chassis batteries get charged but not the Coach/House batteries. However, I may have checked the voltage at the Coach/House batteries (with engine running) when the Chassis batteries were still low and the BCC didn't switch over yet - assuming the above quote is how the system is supposed to work.

Our Coach doesn't have an inverter, just an upgraded converter/charger.

I looked through your onedrive. Did you document your B.I.R.D. repair/upgrade? I'd be interested to know the details of your upgrade/repair.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
I did have to replace the combiner relay on the Passenger rear rail because it would not pass any current. That is the same relay controlled by the switch on the dash used to jumper the house and chassis batteries together. You could hear it clicking when my wife pushed the switch, but the contacts were not passing current. Expensive relay as it has to be a continuous duty relay vise a momentary duty like a starter relay.
I hear the click when I press that dash button but I have never had the voltage measured while pressing that button. I will have to figure out which bank to measure - actually I need to find that specific relay location first and just test at the relay.

.
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:48 AM   #31
Sundancer268
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I don't believe I did any documentation of the B.I.R.D. install. If I remember right, it was just a simple wiring job. I am not sure what I did to the BCC circuit board to disable the charging function. I might have just removed a wire from one of the plugs, I would have to go back and look at the schematics I made of the circuit board and look at the Coach the next warm spell we get. The relay on my coach is in the same general area as the starting relay you were looking for back on the passenger side frame rail. I had the wife cycle that switch while I crawled around under there. When I located the relay, I felt it while the switch was cycling and felt the relay clicking in and out. I did have to replace it as I broke one of the terminals cleaning the corrosion off the cable terminals. I think it was on the way out due to the corrosion as it didn't take to much pressure on the wrench to snap off that stud.
http://www.gsowners.com/forums/showp...90&postcount=6 That explanation sounds about right on the basic operation. Some people install an auxiliary battery charge device, one example is the Trickle-Start https://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html another is from Xantrex http://www.xantrex.com/power-product...y-charger.aspx. There was a discussion on charging the Chassis battery on the Winnebago forum http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ion-65562.html. I think I went with the B.I.R.D. because it used the existing combiner relay allowing the full 100 amps from my Inverter charger to go where it was needed. It might have been overkill, but that is part of my nature. My coach came with an Inverter charger located in the shore power cable compartment. When that unit burnt up internally, I installed a Magnum MSW 2000 watt unit under the bed by the transfer switch. I probably could have had the old unit fixed though I found the Magnum used on line for a good price and it has worked flawlessly for the last eight plus years. I now have four Life Line AGM Batteries also located under the bed. The charge profile could be easily set in the Magnum. I am not sure I could have done that with the old inverter or if a Converter could be set to the proper charge profile.
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1995 Gulf Stream 34' Scenic Cruiser Diesel Pusher 8344WFD. Cummins 12 Valve 230 HP, Allison MD3060 World Tec II.
2019 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk Elite,
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain Tow Bar,
Air Force One Brake System
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