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07-06-2022, 11:20 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 6
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2007 Gulfstream Tourmaster 40' motorhome
Water manifold.jpg
I need help finding a water manifold for my 2007 Gulfstream Tourmaster 40' motorhome, not sure the picture is attached or not but I can't seem to find it anywhere,
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07-06-2022, 11:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,027
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Rodney,
These valve bodies are generically called "Manabloc" valves -- there are many different port counts and configurations, so be sure to match yours with the one the vendor offers.
I have never had any issues with mine -- what has you convinced it needs to be replaced? Did a poor job of winterization cause it to freeze and split?
Chuck
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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07-06-2022, 11:58 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,027
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I checked a picture of the Manabloc on my T40C coach and did not see any model number...so no help there:
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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07-06-2022, 12:36 PM
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#4
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck v
Rodney,
These valve bodies are generically called "Manabloc" valves -- there are many different port counts and configurations, so be sure to match yours with the one the vendor offers.
I have never had any issues with mine -- what has you convinced it needs to be replaced? Did a poor job of winterization cause it to freeze and split?
Chuck
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It has a small leak and NO I did a good job winterizing it,
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07-06-2022, 01:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,027
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Rodney,
Can you see the source of the small leak? Is it a crack in the housing, or is it coming from a valve body? The valves have O-ring seals and if one is leaking, you can get a kit to replace the valve spool complete with its o-rings. The valve spool looks like the one seen in this video:
Good luck in isolating the exact source of your leak and in getting it addressed.
Chuck
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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07-06-2022, 01:16 PM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 6
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Hey Thanks Chuck V. I will try to Isolate where it may be coming from and see if I can order this part. Thanks again for the info,
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07-26-2022, 10:17 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 53
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There is a little tool they package with the valve bodies that I got when I ordered replacements that can pop the core out. I have since replaced the entire manablock with a hot and cold copper manifold I got online.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets and the right side... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets
My block cracked at the #5 valve where the valve core fits into the housing and would not stop even when I moved the line to the empty #6 port. At about the 9:00 position in the closeup pic. The blue cylinder is a replacement valve body I had ordered for another port.
I removed the panel that covered all of it. Added the pressure gauge and a line to a 2 gallon pressure tank between my frame rails near the fresh tank. Added the bar light and there is a remote controlled water valve(above the gauge) in there to supply a misting system for the radiator that I put in before I knew why I was over heating on hills.
__________________
--
Scott
2008 Tour Master T40c
2014 Honda CRV toad
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07-27-2022, 07:00 AM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverofcode
There is a little tool they package with the valve bodies that I got when I ordered replacements that can pop the core out. I have since replaced the entire manablock with a hot and cold copper manifold I got online.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets and the right side... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets
My block cracked at the #5 valve where the valve core fits into the housing and would not stop even when I moved the line to the empty #6 port. At about the 9:00 position in the closeup pic. The blue cylinder is a replacement valve body I had ordered for another port.
I removed the panel that covered all of it. Added the pressure gauge and a line to a 2 gallon pressure tank between my frame rails near the fresh tank. Added the bar light and there is a remote controlled water valve(above the gauge) in there to supply a misting system for the radiator that I put in before I knew why I was over heating on hills.
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Thanks for the info, I will definitely check this out, Thanks again,
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10-10-2022, 04:19 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverofcode
There is a little tool they package with the valve bodies that I got when I ordered replacements that can pop the core out. I have since replaced the entire manablock with a hot and cold copper manifold I got online.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets and the right side... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-...ree-10-Outlets
My block cracked at the #5 valve where the valve core fits into the housing and would not stop even when I moved the line to the empty #6 port. At about the 9:00 position in the closeup pic. The blue cylinder is a replacement valve body I had ordered for another port.
I removed the panel that covered all of it. Added the pressure gauge and a line to a 2 gallon pressure tank between my frame rails near the fresh tank. Added the bar light and there is a remote controlled water valve(above the gauge) in there to supply a misting system for the radiator that I put in before I knew why I was over heating on hills.
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Unrealed question, we have the same MH, is your motor on your hydraulic system a mercury trim tilt motor or do you have a picture of it?
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