Converter for 2007 BT Cruiser model 5291B

purduepete12 · 08-12-2019, 11:39 AM

Can anyone tell me the location of the converter in my 2007 BT Cruiser model 5291B?

BT5210 · 08-12-2019, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

Can anyone tell me the location of the converter in my 2007 BT Cruiser model 5291B?

it's the box with the power breakers...are you having a problem with it???

purduepete12 · 08-12-2019, 05:21 PM

I have taken the box with the breakers out, but all I see are electrical connections for the 110 and 12 volt wires. I would expect to see some type of transformer coil that would convert the AC to DC. The is a 110 plug in the back of breaker panel and I suspect it goes to power the converter somewhere.
My problem is that my bedroom slide is out and There not enough 12 DC power to drive any of the slide motors. I've also tried running the engine but it won't drive the slide motors either. There's only a little 12 volt power coming off the coach batteries to run the interior DC lights. The 110 plugs all have power to them.
I've checked the three 30 amp breakers in the distribution panel and reset them. There's either another breaker keeping the power from going through the system or the converter is bad. The vehicle battery is brand new putting out 12.7 volts and the two 6 volt batteries (in series) are measuring about 12.6 volts, but the are old. Could these batteries be the source of the problem? I don't understand why being hooked to shore power with 110 AC coming off the breaker, but only 11.6 volts DC coming off the fuses.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

BT5210 · 08-12-2019, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

I have taken the box with the breakers out, but all I see are electrical connections for the 110 and 12 volt wires. I would expect to see some type of transformer coil that would convert the AC to DC. The is a 110 plug in the back of breaker panel and I suspect it goes to power the converter somewhere.
My problem is that my bedroom slide is out and There not enough 12 DC power to drive any of the slide motors. I've also tried running the engine but it won't drive the slide motors either. There's only a little 12 volt power coming off the coach batteries to run the interior DC lights. The 110 plugs all have power to them.
I've checked the three 30 amp breakers in the distribution panel and reset them. There's either another breaker keeping the power from going through the system or the converter is bad. The vehicle battery is brand new putting out 12.7 volts and the two 6 volt batteries (in series) are measuring about 12.6 volts, but the are old. Could these batteries be the source of the problem? I don't understand why being hooked to shore power with 110 AC coming off the breaker, but only 11.6 volts DC coming off the fuses.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

there's a multitude of what ifs,... first thing I would check is the grounds...next,.. it could be the latching solenoid is bad..if the engine starts, while it's running you should have 13.5 volts to the coach batterys… when you start the engine, you should hear a clunk sound some where behind the driver seat..same as when you plug to shore power.... with it plugged in,..you should hear the fan on the converter...and also the same clunk when you plug into shore...if the ground going to the batterys from the converter is bad.... it won't charge...can you take a pic of the breaker box???.

purduepete12 · 08-13-2019, 07:24 AM

Where is this latching solenoid located?

BT5210 · 08-13-2019, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

Where is this latching solenoid located?

first ting I would do is put a full charge on the coach batterys…...next, I would confirm that all grounds are good... big problem with RV's...they ground to frame where ever is closest, and never clean the area first, just run a tek screw in and call it good...

the latching solenoid is some times on the fire wall under the hood, but most of the time behind driver seat and compartment or under the coach...if conections aren't good converter won't know to charge the battery...

if you have a breaker panel with 12v fues… that's the converter....like 99.9% positive...its part of it...

hossross · 10-18-2020, 11:38 PM

can you measure the voltage at the Batteries when the switch for the slides is depressed. 12.6 should be enough, but if it drops to lke 10 volts when switch is depressed, then yes I would say batts are failing. Do you have a regular 6 or 12 V battery charger? if so change the batts directly, although the converter is its self just a battery charger. what is the batt voltage with engine off and no shore power, then with engine running, and then with engine off but shore power connected to 110. the engine should also charge the batteries, so if it doesn't the problem isn't the converter.

Restorium · 08-13-2019, 05:20 AM

Some background would help.
Was everything working before?
How and when did it quit working?
We need some clues to help you.

BT5210 · 08-13-2019, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Restorium

Some background would help.
Was everything working before?
How and when did it quit working?
We need some clues to help you.

I'm new here, but not new to RV's owned RV for over 50 years,...you have some good posts, nice to know someone here has knowledge in rv repair...I'll be calling on you if I get stumped....thanks for taking time to post...

right now I own 3 rv's, a2008 Lexington, 2019 thor 29m, and the newest to my fleet, a 2020 bt5210...I got the 2020 5210 to tow our boat, and as a people hauler....I like the small size... my wife calls it a cramper...

Restorium · 08-13-2019, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BT5210

I'm new here, but not new to RV's owned RV for over 50 years,...you have some good posts, nice to know someone here has knowledge in rv repair...I'll be calling on you if I get stumped....thanks for taking time to post...

right now I own 3 rv's, a2008 Lexington, 2019 thor 29m, and the newest to my fleet, a 2020 bt5210...I got the 2020 5210 to tow our boat, and as a people hauler....I like the small size... my wife calls it a cramper...

Nice fleet!
If I ever can help it will make my day.

purduepete12 · 08-13-2019, 07:23 AM

When I went to the storage lot battery was dead as I had left the parking lights on when I put it in storage. Jumped the battery and brought the RV home from the storage lot. Engaged parking brake, plugged in shore power put out bedroom slide to access the drawers, turned on fridge and everything was okay. Next morning wife said fridge was making clicking noise and clicking noise coming from step motor. Connector to step motor showed heat wear and seemed to be shorting inside. Unplugged shore power and battery terminal, spliced wires to step motor directly. Vehicle battery only showing 11.6 volts so I replaced it with a new one. Every time I hit the slide out switch it drains the coach batteries. Tried with engine running and same thing. Reset three 30 amp breakers in distribution panel, no help. Running fridge on propane.
Manual says there is a 50 amp breaker behind drivers seat, but I can't find anything there. I have 110 volt AC to the breaker panel and AC plugs work. Have 11.7 volts DC at the breaker box which is the same as the coach battery reading. It appears that the converter in not working , but I don't know where it is located. I expect that it is under the kitchen sink, but I can't access it as the dining room slide is in and it blocks the sink cabinet access.

Restorium · 08-13-2019, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

When I went to the storage lot battery was dead as I had left the parking lights on when I put it in storage. Jumped the battery and brought the RV home from the storage lot. Engaged parking brake, plugged in shore power put out bedroom slide to access the drawers, turned on fridge and everything was okay. Next morning wife said fridge was making clicking noise and clicking noise coming from step motor. Connector to step motor showed heat wear and seemed to be shorting inside. Unplugged shore power and battery terminal, spliced wires to step motor directly. Vehicle battery only showing 11.6 volts so I replaced it with a new one. Every time I hit the slide out switch it drains the coach batteries. Tried with engine running and same thing. Reset three 30 amp breakers in distribution panel, no help. Running fridge on propane.
Manual says there is a 50 amp breaker behind drivers seat, but I can't find anything there. I have 110 volt AC to the breaker panel and AC plugs work. Have 11.7 volts DC at the breaker box which is the same as the coach battery reading. It appears that the converter in not working , but I don't know where it is located. I expect that it is under the kitchen sink, but I can't access it as the dining room slide is in and it blocks the sink cabinet access.

If the 50 amp was tripped then you wouldn't have power to the plugs.
If you charge your batteries with a battery charger then you might get them charged up enough to move the slide and check the cabinet.
Could be that the breaker for the slide is tripped also.
If you get the batteries charged and the slide still doesn't move then we can hunt for the slide breaker.

BT5210 · 08-13-2019, 12:16 PM

sorry, I tried.... if you were in vegas… I'd come help get it going...

Restorium · 08-13-2019, 08:41 AM

Let's start by getting the fridge running on shore power.
Seems like a breaker is tripped.
On my coach it would be one of the breakers in the main panel or one of the ground fault plugs are tripped. You reset the ground fault plugs by depressing the tiny circuit reset switch in the center of the plug receptacle. If you are positive ALL of your 110 plugs are working then it's not a ground fault reset. It's most likely a main breaker.

Restorium · 08-13-2019, 08:51 AM

I think that in this situation it would be the best to get all the 110 stuff working then see what's up with the 12v stuff.

Graygal · 08-18-2019, 04:06 PM

We have the same model as yourself. We had a generator problem and had to find the ATS, Automatic Transfer Switch.. not sure if that is the same thing as a converter.
Ours is under the bathroom sink ... in a black box in a dark spot.

purduepete12 · 08-18-2019, 07:04 PM

No, that is not the same thing as the power converter. I have that same relay under my bathroom sink also. The power converter is located under the left bowl of the kitchen sink.
You have to remove the "J-trap" and then rip out the back wall panel in this cupboard. It is plugged into the back of the breaker panel with an AC cord and plug. It's just laying on top of the jumble of wires that go to the back of the breaker panel. It has an Aluminum housing about 14"X12"X3" Auto fuses in the back. One of these failed in mine and that is why I had no DC power to drive the slide out motors.

Pete

Restorium · 08-19-2019, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

No, that is not the same thing as the power converter. I have that same relay under my bathroom sink also. The power converter is located under the left bowl of the kitchen sink.
You have to remove the "J-trap" and then rip out the back wall panel in this cupboard. It is plugged into the back of the breaker panel with an AC cord and plug. It's just laying on top of the jumble of wires that go to the back of the breaker panel. It has an Aluminum housing about 14"X12"X3" Auto fuses in the back. One of these failed in mine and that is why I had no DC power to drive the slide out motors.

Pete

That could be a replacement convertor. The way you describe it as laying on top of some wiring sounds like a retrofit. I have replaced mine twice. Make sure there's nothing blocking the cooling fan or it will die prematurely.
You can move it to the battery compartment. I have mine so outside air can be pulled in by the cooling fan.

purduepete12 · 08-19-2019, 10:40 AM

No, it's the original as I am the original owner. I should have at least been mounted either on a shelf or on the wall. I am concerned about the fan as it was not running, but I was'nt sure if it was on a thermostat and only ran when the converter got hot.

Restorium · 08-19-2019, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purduepete12

No, it's the original as I am the original owner. I should have at least been mounted either on a shelf or on the wall. I am concerned about the fan as it was not running, but I was'nt sure if it was on a thermostat and only ran when the converter got hot.

It only runs when it's warm and trips the heat sensor.

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