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Old 02-22-2022, 12:32 PM   #21
Willyt
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Ricklin, I’ve only had mine coming up on four years. It has 10k mi on it. What is a bird relay ? I took the batteries out yesterday, going to charge them up just to verify if they
are good or bad and go from there. I do suspect the alternator though. Sometimes the charging gage( on the cluster) would be on the low side, sometimes jump up above midway after awhile. But mostly on the lower side.
I might have cooked mine doing the same thing, had no idea ! Sometimes this living and learning teaches us expensive lessons ! Oh, one more thing, when you we’re having trouble with your batteries not getting charged, did it affect the way your steps would work. Mine at the moment are stuck haveway out. Recently they have just been working with the engine running
Thanks again. Willyt
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Old 02-22-2022, 12:38 PM   #22
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Real good info , thanks !!
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Old 02-22-2022, 01:43 PM   #23
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The issue with the steps is caused by the voltage being low. It does "sound" like your alternator has output, this based on steps working when it is running.

Steps work based on current draw typically, when voltage decreases current increases and the motor shuts off due to high current before the step is fully in or out.

The bird relay is a square box, about the size of a pack of playing cards. It's black anodized aluminum. Bi-directional delay relay diesel or similar text is printed on it.
The Bird operates the battery bank relay, that relay connects the house and engine batteries together for charging both from the engine alternator.

The BIRD has inputs for house batt engine batt and generator, voltage difference between banks determines when the big relay opens and closes. If the BIRD relay is open, only the engine batteries are charged from the alternator.
That big relay is in the far aft passenger side compartment, on mine to the R and below the battery switches. Check it carefully before replacing it, it's a 200 dollar relay. It's also a fairly common failure point
Check the terminals for corrosion, check resistance across relay terminals with the relay energized You must disconnect the battery terminals to test the relay. I recall that 3 ohms or more resistance means replacement required.

DISCONNECT the chassis and house batteries FIRST. RESPECT the amount of amperage a battery can deliver instantaneously.
It's only 12 volts......and HUNDREDS of amps. Slide under and you will find the battery fuses. check here for corrosion and continuity of the fuses.

Amazon sells a decent Amp-clamp that also has a basic multimeter built in. It's my very favorite for electrical troubleshooting. Extech is the brand, Chinese but good Chinese I use their stuff professionally. About 80 bucks if memory serves.
My other favorite auto electrical tool? A simple 12 volt test light, looks like an awl or icepick with a long wire with alligator clip connected, 12 volt bulb inside the handle. 5 bucks or less at any auto parts store.

Keep a weather eye out at thrift stores for amp clamps, unless physically broken they are very reliable.

I'm not an RV wrench or electrician, I work on much higher end stuff, 20 years of ownership with the coach, Electronics are electronics don't really matter what they run.
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Old 02-22-2022, 02:09 PM   #24
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Ricklin, good to know about the steps and low voltage Do you mean cut off the battery disconnect or physically disconnect the cables from batteries to test relay ?
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Old 02-22-2022, 02:17 PM   #25
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Thanks for your help Bike Dr !
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Old 02-22-2022, 02:35 PM   #26
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Disconnect the batteries at the batteries first for safety.

You would then check the resistance across the "BIRD" relay. You should see 3 ohms or less resistance across the 2 poles with the relay energized. Of course resistance should be infinity unenergized. The small terminal on the relay body is coil power, 12 volts to that terminal. Use a 12 v source to energize the relay.
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Old 02-22-2022, 03:03 PM   #27
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Got it ! Thanks Ricklin ! Electrical is not my strong point but usually I can get a handle on it
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Old 02-22-2022, 03:11 PM   #28
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It took me a while to sort out that system. Mine was the BIRD box which I found for 36 bucks, sure beats 200 for that pricey relay.
DO be sure both house and engine batteries are in good shape. The BIRD can be abandoned but you loose engine charging of house batteries.
The research I did indicated the relay was the more common failure point. If you have a BIRD you should also have a battery combining switch on the dash. You can hear the relay energize when it's working well when you hit that switch with Ign. on. The switch manually turns on the BIRD relay to combine batteries for starting.
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Old 02-22-2022, 06:10 PM   #29
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I’ve tried using that switch and I don’t know if it works or not, it doesn’t make a sound . Thanks for your help. I have the batteries charging as we speak. I’ll see what their outcome will be, they read 11.8v when I hooked one up. I guess we’ll see if they are done for . Let you know what I find out . Thanks, Willyt
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Old 02-22-2022, 07:09 PM   #30
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Default Don't remember

I don't know if I ever used it prior.

I can hear the relay engage when pressing the switch now that it is all working correctly.
Don't forget, a fully charged battery is actually 13 and change 13.6 if memory serves.
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Old 02-23-2022, 08:18 PM   #31
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Hey Ricklin, good to know on the switch thing !
Had no problem charging the batteries up overnight within the 13.5 range. Don’t know if they will hold but I think I’m going to stick them back in. First start gen to make sure house batteries are charged. Turn gen off, start engine and monitor the amp meter to see if the alternator keeps up with the batteries under load or if the voltage starts to drop off. Crossing my fingers for the alternator !! ��
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Old 02-24-2022, 11:52 PM   #32
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No problem at all willyt, glad to help get you started! And it was great that Ricklin has the same coach so he would know the location of your component's far better then me. I have a cat on freightliner chassis, it's different but operates basically the same!
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Old 02-27-2022, 06:27 PM   #33
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Hey Ricklin, Willyt
Put batteries back in mh. I did start gen up to make sure those batteries were topped off. When the gen was running I also checked volts on engine batteries, they were charging also around 13.5v. So I cut gen off and check engine batteries, they were around 12.25v .
So I started coach with no problem, turned on head lights and ran dash heater on high, checked them again, they were holding at 12.5. With the alternator running, should they be reading around 13.5v also ?
As far as the steps being stuck halfway out they still didn’t activate with higher voltage. I got to check into that a little further. Could be a loose fuse or bad ground, where ever that may be. They have been working on and off since last summer and now not at all.
Im going to take it out tomorrow to get some fuel, will give me a better chance to see how the batteries and alternator are doing. I’ll let you know how it goes ! Now we have to deal with high diesel prices ! I guess we should be thankful we’re not dodging Russian tanks…..yet !
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Old 02-27-2022, 06:46 PM   #34
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It looks like that alt should putting out more then that, I think you may have to replace it! You should have 13.1 to 14.3
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Old 02-27-2022, 07:55 PM   #35
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Bike Dr…..That’s kinda what I’m thinking ! I’ll see if anything changes tomorrow.
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Old 03-01-2022, 02:25 PM   #36
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Hey Ricklin Willyt,
When you took the cover off your engine from top side did you have two parts or one ? I got the one off but it only exposed the back 2/3 of the engine. The other one looks like it goes under the bench. Did you take that one off or were you able to get it from the first one? Either way it looks like a bear !
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Old 03-01-2022, 02:35 PM   #37
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The other one looks pretty much permanent ! Willyt
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