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Old 08-26-2012, 04:27 PM   #1
nemo45
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Default 110V Dilemma

My 12V converter recently was fried during a power spike we had during a storm. It also got the compressor on the A/C unit we had operating at the time. After the spike we didn't have 110V either. After I replaced the converter, I started the generator and everything worked fine. Shut the generator off and I had no 110V again. So, now I'm thinking transfer switch. Maybe the load panel side got fried with the converter. So, I call the company that made my transfer switch and he gave me some tests to preform to see if the transfer switch was ok. It passed all the tests. While doing the tests I happen to press down on the contacts on the neutral relay that is on the load panel side of the switch. Bingo! I've got 110V everywhere. I call the transfer switch maker again and the tech tells me after all the tests we did it has to be something other than the switch. Now, I'm thinking BS its gotta be the switch. So, I order a new one. In the mean time I take a piece of cardboard and put it between the contacts on the neutral relay and leave it that way so I have 110V until the new transfer switch comes in. Realizing that I cannot try and start the generator after I've done this. When the new switch comes in, I remove the old one and replace it with the new one, of course after unplugging the shore power. It does take awhile even though the switch is under the bed and there is quite a bit of space to work in there but you have to bend over the bend frame to do it. That's not easy at my age and weight. Anyway, I getter done and plug in the shore power, nada. Now, going what the hell? So I check the 50 amp plug, its ok, 125V on each leg. So, I go to the shore power in at the switch, nothing there. Then I remember a friend of mine having a problem with the connections of the 50amp power cord on his Holiday Rambler. I have all of the cord off the drum because of the distance to the 50 amp box. So, I pull some of the cord back to the drum and roll some up on the drum and block the drum so it can't move back. Bingo! I can hear the printer starting up in the bedroom above the electric cord compartment. I go in the motorhome and start everything up the A/C and all and everthing is fine again. So, now I believe that was what my problem all the time. The weight of the cord pulling on the connection on the drum. Now, I've got an extra transferswitch (the old one) and a lesson learned. A $150 dollar lesson. But, can anyone tell me where the hell 110V came from when I pushed down on the contacts on the neutral relay and opened them and kept them apart? I am at a loss on that one. I ran everything like that for about 10 days. Help? Oh, and i checked out the operation of the switch with the generator and it was good, too.
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Don & Carol Niemeyer & Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master
2011 Equinox LT1 Toad
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #2
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Default Re: 110V Dilemma

Update. Well, the 110V dropped out again, so I just took out the power cord reel and wired the shore power cord direct. Now, I'm thinking all will be fine. I plug in the shore power and go in the motorhome and none of the 110V outlets are working. I do have power to the outlet the converter is on, the water heater and the AC work. So, I check out the load panel and all is well. There is another 30amp panel that all, except a few, of the 110V outlets are wired to and there is no power to it. I find an orange piece of womax from the main load panel that says in and another piece of orange womax going to the 30amp panel that says out on it. I figured out that these are going to and from the inverter and that these would be the outlets that are conected to the inverter. So I go to the information panel and none of the lights are lit up on the inverter in cluding the AC in. I go out to the inverter and there is power to the inverter and none coming out unless I put it on invert and and the charger on the inverter is not working as I only have 12 volts coming from the batteries. So, I know that probably the transfer switch in the inverter is bad and maybe the charger in it. I then by pass the inverter using the 110V in and out and a junction box and all is well. Everything has been operating as it should. So, since I had the power spike, I have had to replace the cord reel, the converter, a transfer switch, an A/C compressor and now probably the inverter. I saved the interior parts from the cord reel and found that the contacts going to the neutral leg were burnt and shortened and that is the reason when I would turn the cord reel some, the 110V would come on and then a couple of hours later go off again. I figure the mystery with the contacts of the transfer switch was that it was making a neutral contact when I pushed down on it, because there is a post underneath it with a white wire going to it. I have checked continuity on the normally closed side(neutral relay) of the old transfer switch and it is good. So, I'm going to save it just in case. I am hoping my insurance will cover all of this including the awning that was ruined during the storm. They are trying to say they are not sure there was a power spike, but with all this evidence I don't know how they could deny it. I hope this helps fellow Tour Master owners to Know just how the 110V is split up. My next purchase is a surge protecter.
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Don & Carol Niemeyer & Sandy
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master
2011 Equinox LT1 Toad
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:14 PM   #3
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Default Re: 110V Dilemma

This just in. The a/c compressor was not ruined. Its was the starter capacitor that got fried. The insurance paid for everything including $130 for me to install the new converter. The inverter has been removed and will probably go back to Xantrex for repair. I am thrilled. I guess I'll keep my Progressive insurance.
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2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master
2011 Equinox LT1 Toad
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