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Old 10-16-2021, 12:07 PM   #1
Shadowsteeler
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Default 2 wheel tow dollies

Does anyone have any insight as to whether to use dolly with or without brakes and whether to get surge or electric brakes? Would be towing 2012 Nissan Altima or 2011 Mazda CX-9 (both front wheel drive) I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 but I do not think we can tow on 2 wheels without disconnecting driveshaft. 2007 Tourmaster T40B more than capable of towing whatever we put behind it. Newbie to towing.
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Old 10-16-2021, 03:10 PM   #2
Chuck v
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Most state require brakes on any towed item weighing more than 1500 to 3000 lbs. Here is a link to some regs... https://www.readybrake.com/state-towing-laws.html


Your Jeep can be towed 4 wheels down (flat towing) if it has a neutral in the transfer case. The front wheel drive cars you listed are reasonable candidates for the tow dolly.


I had a 2007 Tour Master T40C and our 2005 Acura MDX SUV was rated for flat towing but later years of that model did not similarly recommend it. The MDX had tow instructions in the owner manual, and it even was automatically set up to not add miles to the odometer when being towed. You are correct in saying the Tour Master does not get stressed when towing a normal vehicle and is rated to up to 10,000 lbs. Proportional brakes are the best setup for the toad...we used air brakes so it was completely seamless to the RV braking.


I was never wild about tow dollies since you have to store them "someplace" each time you set up in a park. Surge brakes are a pain when backing, so electric is the better choice -- plus you have the option of applying the toad's brakes separately from the main RV brakes if needed. Usually this is a benefit to help squelch sway, but that is much more likely towing a trailer than a vehicle...



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Old 10-24-2021, 12:21 PM   #3
Mike1931
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Flat towing is the way to go!
We use the Road-master towing system.
With an older brake buddy braking system in our toad vehicle.
We love it..
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Old 10-24-2021, 12:35 PM   #4
jamesham
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We have used a Tow Master dolly with electric brakes for over 25 years. We have gone thru 4 different toad cars, so saved a lot of money on baseplates over the years. None of our front wheel drive cars would have been possible to tow four wheels down.

The electric brakes allow manual activation from the controller in the cab of our Class C. We rented a U-Haul dolly with surge brakes before buying our own model, and the surge brakes seemed to come on full and jerk the motorhome to a stop. With the electric control, you can ease into it, or lock them for a panic stop.

[QUOTE=Shadowsteeler;35302]Does anyone have any insight as to whether to use dolly with or without brakes and whether to get surge or electric brakes?
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Old 10-24-2021, 12:59 PM   #5
crzydennis
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Tow dolly is the best way to go as the 4 wheels down is more money all the way around. You would only be limited by front wheel drive. Storage is the only drawback
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Old 10-24-2021, 01:00 PM   #6
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Oh yeah, electric brake as above.
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Old 10-24-2021, 01:00 PM   #7
carlamoore923
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I tow with a Dolly behind my bt cruiser 5270 and got one with surge brakes as i was told that towing in the mountains that would be a good choice. I will echo what everyone else is saying go with the electric brake option. During this past summer Driving in heavy traffic where speed was up and down a lot the surge brakes were way to active ended up over heating and had to pull to the side of the road to let them cool down (they were smoking) Electeric is more reliable over a wider range of driving conditions.
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Old 10-24-2021, 01:46 PM   #8
Mike1931
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And there’s your answer…
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Old 11-07-2021, 10:11 AM   #9
ricklin
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Default Mastertow

I have a Mastertow 2 wheel dolly. Bought new in 06, I'll echo others, they are a PITA to store.
My Friendship is a 4 bag Freightliner with the Caterpillar 330 HP. I went with Surge brakes for simplicity. Just right power and gearing wise, I routinely see 9+ MPG. I would not take a more powerful engine for free. I'm not the slowest pulling grades, and enjoy excellent efficiency.

No real issues over about ten years, lots of mountain grades running up and down the West coast.

My TOAD was fairly heavy to boot, 2010 Prius.

Backing up? Uhh no, maybe a few feet in a straight line, very slowly and carefully.
That is the "other thing" the reverse button is verbotten with a TOAD.

Most efficient storage? Remove car (important) drop the tongue on the ground and back up till the rear bumper nearly touches the fenders of the dolly.
Do slice up some wood to use for ramps getting on and off the dolly. they can be stored in the TOAD when on the dolly. The angle getting off and on can clip the bottom of the front bumper.
I'm putting my Friendship up for sale, I'll include the dolly in the deal.
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Old 01-25-2024, 01:42 PM   #10
Shadowsteeler
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Default 2007 GS Tourmaster T40B/ mechanical issues

So after overhauling out engine this past year we went back on the road heading south to Florida for 9 days. In route, serpentine belt broke which we were able to get a mobile mechanic to come out but had wrong belt 2 x times makeing a 3-4 hour job a 12 hour job @ $225/ hour. They knocked off 2 hours & came down to $200/ hr but was still pissed about having to pay them for $3000 to replace a belt. Now with 1600 miles on my new rebuilt engine I get low oil pressure & high temp reading within a few hours. I pull over & check fluids to see all at capacity but notice oil smells like diesel a bit. I call mechanic and he says it's your injectors dumping fuel through the cylinder and you have to change the injectors, dump oil & filers you will be fine. I have Coachnet tow us into Freightliner of Savannah and they think there is something more than that going on but cannot prove it. My mechanic says tow it home and he will look at it. That is a $10-$13K tow bill. Does anyoine have any real good reccommenations for a mechanic close to the area? Freightliner said he would look at it but their RV rate $230/ hour. They feel bad and are holding for us with no charges at the moment. I stopped to p/u the manager a nice bottle of bourbon for being a sport. Do I just keep local to possibly repair as my mechanic only warrentying work for 5000 miles. HELP?!!

Thoughts please. Thank you.
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Old 01-27-2024, 09:28 AM   #11
ricklin
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Default Caterpillar engine?

Shadowsteeler,
Sorry to hear about the grief. If you have the Caterpillar 330 HP.
I love this engine for coaches, it has a unique means of turning on the injector pump. Engine oil pressure is what permits fuel flow. Engine oil pressure must build enough for the injection pump to supply fuel.
What that means is everything lubricated in the engine is floating before the engine starts firing.
That system can fail and I do believe one of the symptoms is fuel in the engine oil. It's also a relatively simple repair.
Get thyself to an experienced Cat mechanic. They are aware of the issue.
My 2002 friendship is for sale. 50 K come spring, 30 K now, mechanically excellent, it needs some cosmetics. Take advantage of my laziness and buy it now. I am the 2nd owner, since 2005, my pride and joy for many years, a great used coach.
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Old 01-27-2024, 09:34 AM   #12
Shadowsteeler
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Default Injectors

Seems I’m one of the few that has the Mercedes MB906 turbo diesels. We’re still looking for a local mechanic instead of towing back to NY.
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Old 01-27-2024, 10:03 AM   #13
Chuck v
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I had the Mecerdes diesel engine in my 2007 TM T40C and any service it needed was done at my Freightliner shop in Portland Oregon. Freightliner uses/used this engine in many straight trucks and busses, so they have expertise and parts availability. I understand why many service centers may have a surcharge and/or a reluctance to work on the RV versions due to its being a 'residence' with food in the freezer to spoil, large amounts of personal property on board, etc...as well as some limited access issues with the coach built so closely over the engine/transmission/running gear itself.


Hope you find a reputable and qualified service vendor -- the lowest hourly rate may not end up being the cheapest long term solution.


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Old 01-27-2024, 01:05 PM   #14
ricklin
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Default Try to be a minimal PITA

I would advise either a Mercedes dealer, or better yet a good MB independent. Running gear issues are always best resolved by mechanics, rather than RV techs. The RV shop "mechanic" has not likely been to Mercedes service training.

Put yourself in that dealer or shop's shoes with regard to getting service on your rig. Asking to sleep in their parking lot? That is a VERY bad way to start. Do everything you can to make servicing your RV no different than servicing any other vehicle for that shop. It all pays the same for them. We are already at a disadvantage due to taking up more parking, weight, etc. Clear out the fridge and freezer, stow away and or remove small valuables as well, no need tempting fate. Get a motel for a day or three.
If we both make it easy, and ask very nicely most shops are pretty reasonable. When we make it more difficult?? The answer is thanks but no thanks. In the case of my rig the shop can park 3 cars in the space I consume.
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Old 01-27-2024, 02:16 PM   #15
Chuck v
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Ricklin,


The MBE 900 series of industrial engines is marketed in this country by Detroit Diesel and serviced by Freightliner, so they are the authorized factory repair facilities. I was not recommending a "RV shop" in my posting above.

Let me try to post the manuals I have on this engine to illustrate why an automotive MB dealership would not be a good choice for major service on this engine/drivetrain. For certain they would have very little experience/training on the Allison trans-axle and may be reticent to get involved with even a removal of the engine from the vehicle...

Chuck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MBE 900 series DDC-SVC-MAN-0040.pdf (2.90 MB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf Mercedes engine operating manual.pdf (2.44 MB, 2 views)
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