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Old 01-14-2023, 07:07 PM   #1
Tropical
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Default Water heater frustration

Hey guys this is driving me nuts!
1996 GS Tourmaster with a suburban water heater. I’m attempting to use the gas side of water heater to save electric bill. I have a water manifold that everything runs through all valves are open. I turned the inside switch on and ignited, lit and burned fine for a few then got the light. Purged stove burner, installed new thermostat/limit switch turned on switch and it heated up fine. The water in the tank is hot but I’m getting nothing but cold outta the faucets???
Any ideas? Or something I didn’t think of?
And possibly tell me where the 12 V fuse is for the switch going to the gas valve
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Old 01-15-2023, 07:16 AM   #2
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I'm a little confused by your write up, but let's see if we can figure it out. It sounds like you could have an issue with your water pathway and valving. Let's first make sure that water is making it into the water heater and that your valves are turned properly for "normal" mode and not "bypass" mode. Water should be able to flow into the water heater. You can make sure it is by opening the pressure relief valve from the outdoor access panel of the water heater while the water pump is on or if hooked up to city water. If water is properly filling the tank, it should overflow out of the pressure relief valve. If not, then that is the first problem. If the water heater is not properly filling, then the heaters may fault.

Next, make sure that the valve that would allow water to bypass the water heater is properly closed. Water should be flowing into and then out of the water heater on to the rest of the hot lines. If the bypass is also open, water may still flow to the water heater, but cold water will also flow past the water heater and into the hot lines downstream. That could be why you are getting cold water at the faucets.

Check any other areas that might allow the HOT and COLD water supply sides to mix, such as an outdoor shower where the hot and cold faucets are turned on but the shut off valve at the head is closed.

There should be a 12v fuse for the water heater in the panel along with your other 12v fuses.

Good luck!
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Old 01-15-2023, 10:38 AM   #3
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If the bypass setup is a single valve (Vs three) there will be a check valve at the hot water outlet connection of the water heater. Sometimes those get "stuck" and do not allow water flow. This could be the issue?
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Old 01-17-2023, 12:02 PM   #4
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Iíve replaced the check valve and thermostat.
I just pulled water from the pressure relief valve and itís definitely hot! Just no hot water out of the faucets!😡
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Old 01-17-2023, 05:54 PM   #5
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The check valve I'm talking about, >IF< you have one (not all applications have them), is physically on the back of the water heater itself, threaded to the outlet connection. It looks like a small (2"-3" long) coupling. These can fail in the closed position, and stop flow. Also, am curious, have you taken loose individual connections to the manifold to check for flow?
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Old 01-17-2023, 06:51 PM   #6
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Hello if I could make a suggestion it looks like #9 valve is on on the cold side of the manablock.you won't get any hot water with that valve in that position!!
I have a similar block turn off the cold so it doesn't pass and override the hot
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Old 01-17-2023, 07:07 PM   #7
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Just to clarify, you are getting a steady flow of cold water out of your faucet when the HOT water is turned on? How long are you letting that water run for? It could take a couple of minutes to get hot water flowing through all the plumbing on a large coach. Finally, you confirm that the water heater tank is full of hot water? If so, then the only things I can think of are that you need to let the water run longer to get hot out of the tap, or that there is indeed another valve(s), likely near the water heater on the inside of the coach, that control bypass and they need to be turned properly for normal flow. That makes sense to me since just turning off the cold water valve, (#9) on the manifold wouldn't alone fully bypass the water heater. It seems that would just prevent water from getting to the water heater. Yeah, I'm guessing there is another set of valves near the water heater and that the hose hooked to the manifold at hot #9 is the bypass line. Look for a way to access the back side of the water heater from inside of the coach.
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Old 01-17-2023, 07:21 PM   #8
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Lol I swear it's that cold valve on #9 is causing the problem the water heater fills from the main line the cold should only be open when it's in bypass otherwise it will bleed cold into the hot line in normal use! I hope this makes sense! I have seen and done it myself when I first got my coach but my profession helped me figure it out. It can be confusing it is funny that I just went and read my decal and it does read slightly different then tropicals picture. And its interesting that I do not have a valve mentioned by rich. So just trying to help because I do see both of your knowledge for sure and don't want to step on any posts for sure
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Old 01-17-2023, 09:17 PM   #9
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No worries, we're all just trying to help. Admittedly, I am curious to see how Tropical's system works, is mapped out or how the bypass works. Since the sticker on the manifold in the photo shows to shut the cold side #9 to bypass the water heater, I am just assuming that that cold line goes and fills the w.h. It wouldn't surprise me if it is different though. Then, where does the hose connected to the hot #9 go to/come from? I love a mystery!
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Old 01-18-2023, 10:28 AM   #10
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Bike Dr is correct, the #9 cold valve needs to be in the closed position.
The way it is right now the cold water will override the the hot water and you will get cold water out of your hot water valve at the sink.

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Old 01-18-2023, 12:16 PM   #11
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Yes sir that was the first thing I replaced
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Old 01-18-2023, 12:21 PM   #12
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Okiedokie so you’re saying I need to shut off cold #9 and then it should work? I was thinking if I turned that off it cutoff refill capabilities but will definitely try it!
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Old 01-18-2023, 12:24 PM   #13
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Haha me too! I just can’t figure it out cause when we first got setup. I had hot water in the shower for about a minute then lost it and have been investigating since but I honestly don’t remember what I did after that other than started replacing stuff. Can’t remember initially where all the valve positions were! ����
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Old 01-18-2023, 12:25 PM   #14
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Ok I’ll try that and let y’all know! Thanks so much for your help everyone!
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Old 01-18-2023, 01:14 PM   #15
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Ok guys I went out and turned off the blue )cold) #9 and checked the pressure relief valve to make sure I had hot water came in and let it run for about 2 minutes and started to feel a tiny bit of warm and then back to cold! Wth? ����
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Old 01-18-2023, 05:24 PM   #16
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Okay I'm going to try and load a picture of my block in service set your valves the same as mine and try again!! Lol we will figure this out!

Try your valves in this position!!

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Old 01-18-2023, 09:11 PM   #17
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Yes, so this is what I was talking about when I mentioned that there must be another valve(s). In Bike Dr's photo, the valves are set up in "Normal" mode. The COLD #9 valve is open to allow water to fill the water heater>the return line from the water heater that carries hot water has this white turn valve that is open, allowing hot water to continue through the line to the supply the HOT side of the manifold>finally, the HOT #9 is closed to prevent cold water from entering the HOT side of the manifold.

Tropical, if your system is plumbed similarly, then you need to try to do as Bike Dr suggests and copy his valve set up for normal operation. Open COLD #9, close HOT #9, and open the hot line valve coming from the water heater to the HOT side of the manifold.

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Old 01-19-2023, 03:33 PM   #18
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Ok I’m laughing now so thankful for that guys. Ok so I’ve closed the cold #9 with no difference. I’ve figured out that that cold valve feeds my water heater. So you’re saying I need to close my hot side #9? When I opened my cold #9 it started filling the tank (i heard it filling) so now I will try closing the hot side and see what happens. I’ll let y’all know. The saga continues! ����
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Old 01-19-2023, 04:37 PM   #19
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Yes that's it the 3/4 line at the bottom left supplies hot to the manablock so turning off 9 hot will stop the bypass. I think it will happen this time!! Lol
The white valve you see was just put in to stop back flow to the WH when winterizing the coach because I do not have those flow valves mentioned previously! It seems you have the gray style pex and I have the newer version of the pex all 1/2 cts used in a lot of home construction..
Good luck!!

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Old 01-20-2023, 11:36 AM   #20
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Ok so I climber in there to see the back and the hot line comes out of the back and goes straight into the main line on the water tower so my hot #9 has to be on to get hot water flow.
I also so saw a tag that states a non metallic dip tube?? I’m wondering where this is located and how to get to it because I’m thinking when I took out the old check Val there was a piece of something clogging it so I read about dip tubes coming apart in the tank and that would explain the clogged valve. Can anyone tell me where or how to get to the dip tube?
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