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04-06-2021, 10:21 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 14
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2007 Sedona interior light issue
Greetings,
I have a 2007 S29RKFW SEDONA 5th Wheel.
I recently had issues with the ceiling lights. One morning a string of 3 would not come on. There was no breaker tripped or fuse that was out. There may have been a bulb or two that needed replaced but this did not correct the problem.
Then yesterday, the same type of light above the kitchen sink went out. With this one there was both a burnt bulb and a tripped breaker. When I changed the bulb and recycled the breaker the light still did not work like the other string of 3.
Please advise and thank you in advance!
John
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04-06-2021, 12:46 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,028
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John,
Looks like the fixture may have gotten hot when the bulb burned brighter as its filament experienced an internal short just before it burned out entirely. Have you taken the fixture down from the ceiling to see if the wires leading to it are fried/show any signs of overheating? Does the switch on the light fixture feel like it has good detents, or is it feeling loose/worn/damaged?
Using a voltmeter, do you see 12 volts present at the fixture wiring when the fixture SHOULD be working? If so replace the fixture (highly recommend going to LED fixtures ...) If no voltage present, then you have to look further back into the wiring run supplying the lamp.
A package of 5 lamp fixtures to replace the ones you have only costs about $42 as seen here:
https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-LED-I...98771504&psc=1
Chuck
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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04-07-2021, 10:51 AM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 14
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Chuck,
Thanks for the reply on this! It makes perfect sense that one of the lights on that circuit affected the rest of them... just like a bad outlet on a circuit.
I will take them apart one by one using the multi-meter etc.
We are in route to Florida from Montana. As soon as I get to it I'll post my results.
Thank you again!
John
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04-20-2021, 02:40 PM
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#4
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 14
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Chuck,
I was finally able to do some troubleshooting on this.
The picture shows I tested for power to the switch and there was no power!
I'm certain the interior fuse box has no blown fuses and the breaker box has no tripped breakers.
Anything come to mind in terms of how I can test this further? I guess it's possible the breaker for this may have gone bad. If that was the case, the breaker never tripped the last time the lights went out.
Thank you!
John
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05-15-2021, 02:20 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis
Posts: 754
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Generally, Bulbs are 12vdc, Breakers are 120vac, so only connection is the CONVERTER CHARGER; tripped breaker should not affect lighting unless battery dead? (Unless you refer to a 12vdc breaker next to the battery?). Many times, the "micro" or "Mini" light switches fail from age/ corrosion/ heat from the old 921 Incandescents. I ordered 12 switches when I converted to LED, 1-2 of new dozen were erratic/ bad
__________________
THenne1713
2000 Conquest LE 6266, Class-C on 99-E450SD, 6.8, 2v, V-10
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05-16-2021, 03:50 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John500
Chuck,
I was finally able to do some troubleshooting on this.
The picture shows I tested for power to the switch and there was no power!
I'm certain the interior fuse box has no blown fuses and the breaker box has no tripped breakers.
Anything come to mind in terms of how I can test this further? I guess it's possible the breaker for this may have gone bad. If that was the case, the breaker never tripped the last time the lights went out.
Thank you!
John
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That is an AC tester in the picture, it will not show you the 12VDC that is (should be) present at the light fixture.
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05-16-2021, 09:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,028
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Ry469 is correct -- that neon bulb AC voltage test lamp will not indicate the presence of the 12 volts DC that is needed for the lighting fixtures in your RV. Further, the circuit breakers that are in the RV are for AC loads, not for the DC ones that all should have fuses.
There is one AC breaker that MIGHT be involved in the lighting working, and that is the one that allows AC power to the Converter that makes 12 volts for the trailer loads and charges the house batteries...
Chuck
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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05-18-2021, 04:47 AM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 14
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the input here.
Now that I understand - I"m going to use a volt meter to test for the 12VDC. My original intention was to test each fixture to see where the power stops because there are a total of five fixtures not working.
Thanks again!
John
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05-22-2021, 01:17 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis
Posts: 754
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YUP, you will need a 12vdc TEST LIGHT that uses a 12v BULB; USING A METER MIGHT REQUIRE an 2nd person to hold/ read the meter
__________________
THenne1713
2000 Conquest LE 6266, Class-C on 99-E450SD, 6.8, 2v, V-10
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08-29-2021, 07:15 AM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 14
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So I finally got around to testing the wires behind each light fixture.
What I found was - there was no power to any of the light fixtures. I was hoping to find there was one particular fixture where the wires had shorted or something like that. Hence, that would have blocked the other fixtures from getting any juice.
Since that isn't the case, I have no idea where to look. It's definitely not one of the breakers on either of the two panels located inside the trailer. If it was a mini-breaker, I just wonder where that would be.
I did find three of them but these aren't the issue. See attached
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08-29-2021, 09:37 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,028
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More than likely it is one of the small fuses in the block -- I don't know where they might be located (for my coach the blocks are in several locations...some inside and some in the driver's side bay and under the dash.) I really doubt that these lights would have their own breaker rather than a fuse...but if they did it would be labeled. The 30 amp breakers you show in your photo are not the style one would expect for an individual load.
Many times in a camper the AC breakers and the DC fuses are grouped together in a panel like the one pictured below, so look for something like that.
Chuck
__________________
2007 Tour Master T40C
Acura MDX toad
"It takes a great deal of time to recover from any improvement..."
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08-29-2021, 11:17 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John500
Greetings,
I have a 2007 S29RKFW SEDONA 5th Wheel.
I recently had issues with the ceiling lights. One morning a string of 3 would not come on. There was no breaker tripped or fuse that was out. There may have been a bulb or two that needed replaced but this did not correct the problem.
Then yesterday, the same type of light above the kitchen sink went out. With this one there was both a burnt bulb and a tripped breaker. When I changed the bulb and recycled the breaker the light still did not work like the other string of 3.
Please advise and thank you in advance!
John
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Interestingly you mention you "recycled breaker" after blowing out light bulbs (that look smoked in your picture). The thing between the (120VAC) breaker and your (12VDC) light is the converter. Basically a 12VDC power supply in your unit that uses shore power to provide DC to your coach, to power things such as your lights. The burnt bulb (in your picture) can be caused by high over voltage. Although not the normal failure mode, this would indicate over voltage from your converter. When you used your multimeter, what was the voltage (exactly) when on shore power? It should be 13.7 VDC with a proper functioning converter and fully charged battery. The other (simple) question, is have you checked for 12VDC at the switch on the wall for the lights that are out?
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