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Old 10-18-2020, 09:28 PM   #1
hossross
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Default How to remove a slide out on a 2006 B Touring Cruiser

Do you have any details about what to remove to allow the slide out to be removed from the wall of the coach? I think the 5 inch fluted wood trim and the 90 degree aluminum angle must be removed to allow the "Box" to slide out of the coach. I get the aluminum angle it is held on to the side and top of the box with screws and provides the surface for the seals to contact see photographs But have no clue about the disassembly of the "box- slide out" wood picture frame. Any help or references is greatly appreciated Pictures included to better show the issue. Any information about supporting the box, super extending the rack and pinion slide mechanism etc is also appreciated
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File Type: jpg Slide Wood trim.jpg (134.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Slide seal contact2.jpg (67.0 KB, 15 views)
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Old 11-03-2020, 10:03 AM   #2
MAJWayne88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hossross View Post
Do you have any details about what to remove to allow the slide out to be removed from the wall of the coach? I think the 5 inch fluted wood trim and the 90 degree aluminum angle must be removed to allow the "Box" to slide out of the coach. I get the aluminum angle it is held on to the side and top of the box with screws and provides the surface for the seals to contact see photographs But have no clue about the disassembly of the "box- slide out" wood picture frame. Any help or references is greatly appreciated Pictures included to better show the issue. Any information about supporting the box, super extending the rack and pinion slide mechanism etc is also appreciated
I feel your pain. I'm in the process of removing my galley slide out now. We just got all the trim off yesterday, so today, we are disconnected from the slide mechanisms and sliding the box out. Enough of my saga...yes, you will need to remove (carefully) the wood trim (probably held with pin nails and MAYBE some type of adhesive). Pry it off, all the way around and there is probably a backer to it (mine was OSB) with a metal/aluminum piece. Then remove the angle pieces (held in with screws, most likely) and viola...you should have clearance to slide her out. Can't speak to the bottom (slide mechanism) as we have not yet tackled that part. Good luck!!
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Old 11-03-2020, 08:19 PM   #3
hossross
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Thanks for the reply, so basically nothing to remove as far as fasteners, just carefully pry the wood away from the box wall and cut the adheasive if found I assumed there were wire or pin nails used
I have detached the slide room from the slide mechanism on mine, it was simply run the slide room out and there are self drilling sheet metal flat headed Philips screws. Use a #3 philips bit as the screws are probably #14 about 1 7/8 inches long. The box rolls out on 2 - 8 inches rollers near the ends. I assume you can slide it right out onto a platform, but have no idea how heavy ( Maybe 500#????) How would you lay it down assuming that it is the bottom that needs repaired? I see you have a Yellowstone, so our slide mechanism maybe different. Mine is rack and pinion electric motor driven, I assume yours may be hydralic powered. Anyway should be obvious how the slide attaches underneath.

As for mine I'm proceeding by pulling out all the old bad delaminated plywood replacing with 1/4 plywood as far back as I can reach and then am covering up the entire bottom with 9 foot by 32 inch 1/8 thick aluminum. Then the rollers will run on the aluminum and will also be the close out of the bottom panel. The wall only seem to attached to the floor with 6 - 3-3/4 fully threaded screws, so will need to add more screws. it appears those screws go into a box section (square or rectangle) so that is the purpose of the full threads it grabs top and bottom. not nearly enough fasteners in my opinion. Thats my progress so far
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:37 AM   #4
boatguypat
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Default Pics?

It would be great if you'all could include some pictures. I plan on doing a similar repair but thought it might be too big a job. Thanks for the notes!

2004 Friendship Atrium.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:31 AM   #5
John ladd
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I have a 06 BT.cruiser also if you ever need a slide motor the company that made the motor is from my home town dayton ohio I got the motor and gear for around 200.00 a lot less than any one else wanted
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:26 PM   #6
hossross
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good to know, will make a note. my motors and gears look OK for now
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Old 11-08-2020, 09:51 AM   #7
John ladd
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Company name I'd on slide motor you can Google them I will try to post the name and phone number lat er
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Old 11-08-2020, 01:54 PM   #8
MAJWayne88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hossross View Post
Thanks for the reply, so basically nothing to remove as far as fasteners, just carefully pry the wood away from the box wall and cut the adheasive if found I assumed there were wire or pin nails used
I have detached the slide room from the slide mechanism on mine, it was simply run the slide room out and there are self drilling sheet metal flat headed Philips screws. Use a #3 philips bit as the screws are probably #14 about 1 7/8 inches long. The box rolls out on 2 - 8 inches rollers near the ends. I assume you can slide it right out onto a platform, but have no idea how heavy ( Maybe 500#????) How would you lay it down assuming that it is the bottom that needs repaired? I see you have a Yellowstone, so our slide mechanism maybe different. Mine is rack and pinion electric motor driven, I assume yours may be hydralic powered. Anyway should be obvious how the slide attaches underneath.

As for mine I'm proceeding by pulling out all the old bad delaminated plywood replacing with 1/4 plywood as far back as I can reach and then am covering up the entire bottom with 9 foot by 32 inch 1/8 thick aluminum. Then the rollers will run on the aluminum and will also be the close out of the bottom panel. The wall only seem to attached to the floor with 6 - 3-3/4 fully threaded screws, so will need to add more screws. it appears those screws go into a box section (square or rectangle) so that is the purpose of the full threads it grabs top and bottom. not nearly enough fasteners in my opinion. Thats my progress so far
Sorry I didn't get back to you (was caught up in my own issues with slide removal and renovation)! But it sounds like you're on the right track, just go slow and pry carefully! LOL Remember....you break it, you buy it!! LOL So far mine is going "well", lots of soggy wood in the subfloor, but new subfloor is going in and the flooring has been ordered. I'm getting a much more intimate knowledge of my motorhome than I ever wanted when I bought it, but hey, at least I know her inside and out!!
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Old 11-09-2020, 11:22 AM   #9
hossross
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Originally Posted by MAJWayne88 View Post
Sorry I didn't get back to you (was caught up in my own issues with slide removal and renovation)! But it sounds like you're on the right track, just go slow and pry carefully! LOL Remember....you break it, you buy it!! LOL So far mine is going "well", lots of soggy wood in the subfloor, but new subfloor is going in and the flooring has been ordered. I'm getting a much more intimate knowledge of my motorhome than I ever wanted when I bought it, but hey, at least I know her inside and out!!
.to hear your making progress, I've been doing mine myself and I'm old so big job for me, but finishing up next few days. Boy is that last sentence true. Obviously they either under designed/built many areas. For instance, the slide mechanism is positioned so that only 1 row of attachment screws go into an aluminum beam, the other row goes into wood. the Centerline of the mechanism doesn't match where they put the double aluminum beam obviously meant for all the screws to go into the metal. I also noticed there is an "IN" stop on the slide mechanism on the out side but not even close to be a stop unless the whole side fell off, and same on inside, there is a welded 3/8 nut on the mechanism to a bolt to be installed as a "out stop" but there is no bolt Actually it should be an Allen screw so it is more compact and concealed. Seems crude to use more stall or user opinion when tight is tight enough.
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