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Old 11-19-2020, 06:13 PM   #1
W0JON
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Default 2006 Tour Master breaker switch in the AC cord basement compartment

anyone help me with the breaker switch (like in a boat) that is located on the ceiling left side of the basement compartment that has the AC power cord. There is also 2 outlets that I imagine are for the frost plug heater, but there does not happen to be a breach other than where the AC power cord goes out the bottom front of the compartment. This is a new MH to me... so still learning as the manuals are less than complete thanks in advance...
Jon
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Old 11-19-2020, 07:03 PM   #2
Chuck v
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The only switch on the ceiling of that bay on my 2007 TM was for the power retraction spool for the shore power cord... Is that switch a momentary rocker?


The outlets are indeed for the engine block heater, and it is switched by the breaker under the refrigerator labeled engine heat.



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Old 11-19-2020, 08:36 PM   #3
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It is a break power connection, like on a boat. Terminates the circuit. Opens the connection. Not a momentary switch. Thinking it has something to do with charging the house batteries. In the inverter the house batteries loose charge till I start engine and then all is fine otherwise I loose power to the remote panel the power steps and some of the lights. I have tried pushing the red button to open circuit no difference and have closed the circuit with no difference to the power issue. Only thing that has seemed to make a little difference in holding
Power is sliding the drivers seat back and hitting air brakes a couple times. It’s when the air gauge gets to over the cutoff of 65 pounds all electrical systems work?? Got me baffled. Fan even goes out when loosing power. (Of course that is controlled by 12 volts.)
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:35 PM   #4
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What charges the house batteries when on AC power? Or I guess what feeds 12 volts to the house circuits when on AC power. Would that be the converter that is on the side of the bed. Itís a 2006 Tour Master 49t. Also the previous owner just installed 2 new house batteries and a new chassis battery. Maybe he didnít hook up charging cables from where ever they are supposed to be charged from. Any help would be appreciated. Jon. I did try to follow the circuit cut off in the basement compartment where the power cord is. Mine does not have the power reel. It is26 degrees and snowing so could not do too much trouble shooting.
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Old 11-20-2020, 10:54 AM   #5
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Jon,


I suspect your coach is one of the T40 series, and the 49t is a typo... Attached is a brochure on these coaches that shows how they were configured when sold, and the various sub-model designations (mine for instance was a T40C...)


Yes, the converter is what charges the house batteries and also provides the 12 volt lighting power when on shore power. There should be two house batteries in parallel in the curb side basement bay just behind the rear wheels. In that same bay, there should also be TWO parallel 12 volt batteries that are the chassis batteries. Surprised that only one of these was replaced -- operating lead acid batteries in parallel requires that they be well matched as to age, condition and manufacturer...so watch that the good new battery does not boil the older one as it begins to age out and fail.


The AC circuit breakers in your coach should all be in a pair of panels under the residential refrigerator, so check that the one for converter is not tripped there -- I cant recall if it is a separate breaker or just marked as one of the driver's side AC circuits. You may note that the main AC breakers are those loads that are only powered from shore power or the generator, whereas the secondary panel loads also can be powered from the inverter (such as the refrigerator and the TV...) The main breaker panel source powers the secondary panel through the inverter's transfer switch, so if shore power is present, power to all loads come from there.


I think that all of the Tour Master coaches of this vintage came with power reels. so maybe a prior owner took yours out when its mechanism failed. I had to replace mine as I lived aboard my coach and the cord stayed extended for most of the time, causing the brushes in the real to remain in a fixed position. Motion of the brushes on the mating connector rings is what keeps everything clean and free of corrosion, so at one point my reel lost connection to one leg of the dual 50 amp park connection. I replaced the reel with a new assembly, as just the parts were not available and it was a bit costly...so maybe the PO of your coach opted to just have a cord that did not have a power reel which would be a less expensive "fix."


Chuck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2007TourMasterBrochure part 1.pdf (1.11 MB, 4 views)
File Type: pdf 2007TourMasterBrochure part 2.pdf (1.58 MB, 3 views)
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Old 11-20-2020, 11:37 AM   #6
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thanks for the reply... yes it is a 40T-A 2006 Tour Master.... so it is a little different than yours, but similar the circuit breaker components are on the bed on the side as you walk in.... I believe that the converter may be the culprit and supposedly is under the king size bed. My question is, the king size bed slides inward so as to be able to close the bed slide (the head of the bed also lifts to a lounge position also to allow the slide to close) I have tried to lift the bed with no avail... it is a large fiberglass platform and for the life of me I cannot lift or try to figure out how to lift it up to get to the electronics below. I can partially see some wiring when I look through the slot made to allow the bed to slid forward. Do you know the trick to being able to lift the bed up... It is rather heavy (or appears to be) but it still won't budge... tried from each side and the front... would like to check the converter to see if there is any output when on shore power... the side of the bed has the AC breakers and the 12 volt fuses and I have checked those. Also on the curb side compartment where most of the electrical "Lives" there are the 12 volt breakers (mainly 50 volt disconnects--- 3 of them and they are fine also.. activated them several times)... the ironic part is the previous owner when I purchased it put in 3 new batteries (there appeared to only be 3, guessing 2 in parallel are for the house and the 1 is for the chassis "started battery") the one with the chassis or I believe is chasis has an additional red positive wire but no additional ground wire... can't find an additional ground wire but maybe uses chassis ground somewhere.... tried to find a wiring diagram but no luck.... main thing is to lift bed and check converter if anyone know the way to lift the king size bed... thanks in advance... great forum...
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Old 11-20-2020, 02:08 PM   #7
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Jon,


My T40C had a queen size bed and the T40A has a king size bed, so it may be even heavier than my experiences with my coach (and it could even work differently than what I found in the T40C...) That said -- the following may help you:



The bed on these Tour Master models does indeed 'retract' a little bit to provide the spacing needed in closing the opposing slides in the bedroom. The electric lift motor that does this slants the upper part of the bed and mattress up at the wall such that the foot moves in at least 12 inches or so...


The platform on my coach was plywood faced with a high pressure laminate and may be what you describe as 'fiberglass' in your post above. This is a heavy panel because it has a welded square metal tubular frame structure, and has no lift assist springs or other means to help you lift it. What you want to do is take the mattress off the bed and lean it against your closet cabinet wall -- this removes a lot of the total bed weight and helps you in lifting the panel. You will need a prop to hold the hinged panel up after you lift it -- about 4 feet long or so, perhaps a 2x4 or similar. NOTE: the hinges that allow the top of the bed to attain the lounge position are also the hinges that allow the main bed support panel to be lifted at the foot of the panel.


Under this bed support panel is the AC to 12 volt DC Converter, and also the main transfer switch that selects either the shore power or the generator as source of AC to the various 110 volt loads. I replaced my transfer switch with one that had a built in ground fault protection so I did not have to use an external one at park hookups.


Let us know what you find and if you need further help...


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Old 11-20-2020, 06:10 PM   #8
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Thanks. I got the bed lifted and prompted up. Converter has 110 in and 12.8 out. Also traced that to the 50 amp cut off switch. Then it goes to what I believe is the chassis battery and should probably go to the 2 deep cycle batteries. Sure wish they were on slide out trays. The PO had his hired man switch out the batteries so I can imagine he might have not been as careful as he should. Now to try and trace all wires to make sure they are correct. Especially getting to know the system in case I have problems in the future😎
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Old 11-20-2020, 07:14 PM   #9
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Jon,



Look in the second attachment of my post #5 above which is the second part of the Tour Master Brochure. You will find in the page just prior to the floor plans under the "POWER" category that these coaches came standard with 2 each engine batteries (what we call chassis batteries) and also 2 each 12 volt house batteries...as well as 4 each 6 volt golf cart sized batteries for the inverter. You need to restore that configuration of engine/chassis batteries to be assured of reliable starting under all temperature conditions.


You can always disconnect the cables from only one of the stacks and see what no longer gets power -- as the last hired worker may have had the concept of house and chassis reversed. The house batteries would normally be deep cycle, and the engine batteries would be high CCA starter types. Those batteries are a bit difficult to access, and that is why I added the watering fittings and squeeze bulb system to top them off during regular maintenance as it is nearly impossible to look down the cell cap opening to see the level. Here is a link to what I am talking about:

https://www.campingworld.com/qwik-fi...E&gclsrc=aw.ds


I used a similar system for the 4 each golf cart batteries up under the windshield as they too were difficult to access.


I no longer own my coach, but maybe another Tour Master owner on this forum will chime in here with some useful pictures of the cable routing, etc.

Chuck
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Old 11-21-2020, 01:50 PM   #10
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Thanks Chuck!!! I found the issue. 3 blown 30 amp fuses in the converter. Changed them out and all is well. Pretty sure when the batteries were changed out the guy probably accidentally shorted a positive cable out!!! Thanks for your help.
Great forum

Jon
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:12 PM   #11
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Jon,


Glad you got it all sorted out!! Enjoy your coach and feel free to ask any other questions on this forum as you continue to discover things about your 'new-to-you' unit...


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Old 11-24-2020, 05:58 PM   #12
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The breaker is for charging the chassis batteries via the converter. Which in the 2006 Tour Master is under the King size bed (T40 A).... so the fuses could have gotten fried when the PO changed out the batteries and maybe hit the hot wire with a ground... just guessing.... but anyhow, the converter did show power but not in the charging portion of the converter.... it's been 4 days and all is good, knock on wood... (the battery did get charging while the engine was running and had all the lights and gauges working).... now to just figure out why the microwave is not working (interior light comes on but no panel indicators and not working... took it apart and the fuse was ok, so I would guess it is the magnetron going south... now to find a microwave/convection oven that will fit the opening.... rather wide, which is the most concerning..... depth and height are not as critical...
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:18 PM   #13
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Jon,


As I recall the microwave in those coaches also incorporate the re-circulation fan/filter for the range top below it. Be sure any replacement has that feature as well.

If you need to make more space vertically, your coach may be like mine that had a false cabinet above it you could expand into. On my coach, I added hinges to that panel and made a storage space for flat racks/cooking sheets that were hard to store elsewhere. Here is what the interior of that space looked like after I added a flush floor to it...


Chuck
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