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Old 09-13-2021, 04:51 PM   #1
NERoamer
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Default No power from battery might be jackstand

Hello,

I'm getting no power from my 12v (Everything works when plugged into shore power). No lights, no indicator panel. I believe that a new tongue jack stand may be the culprit. Trying to do some research, I have found reference to a re-setter switch,....I'm looking down under the frame between the battery and connections box but I can't seem to see that my rv has one (is this possible?). If so does anyone have any suggestions as to what else I could try?

A little further info to thicken the plot: We were out camping this past weekend and went out hiking for awhile. When I get back the fridge is calling for power and the lights are dim. We were plugged in to shore power at the time. I checked my EMS and there were no codes, the led display was just lit up yellow. I unplugged everything, switched off the breaker, back on EMS reading ok. I plugged the trailer back in and then everything seemed ok for the rest of the weekend.

Get home and the jack isn't working and same, no power for the components inside the trailer.
I have tested the battery and it is showing in good condition.
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Old 09-13-2021, 09:49 PM   #2
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OK, update:

I was able to find the re-setter switch. Lights worked, panel display worked, awning worked. Went out and flipped the switch for the jack.... everything back out again. So the jack is definitely the culprit.

Now, I've got to figure out why? Is there a grounding issue or faulty connection somewhere? Remember now, this is a new jack, only bought a few weeks ago.
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Old 09-19-2021, 09:42 AM   #3
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There are generally 3-4 12VDC CIRCUIT BREAKERS next to battery (within 18")/ or next to BATTERY SWITCH; In my class-C, all are UNDER step; 5th wheel might be in compartment NEXT to battery? If tripped while using jack, most likely one of larger breakers (60-100a?) LUCK
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THenne1713 View Post
There are generally 3-4 12VDC CIRCUIT BREAKERS next to battery (within 18")/ or next to BATTERY SWITCH; In my class-C, all are UNDER step; 5th wheel might be in compartment NEXT to battery? If tripped while using jack, most likely one of larger breakers (60-100a?) LUCK

Thanks. I do have an update I wasn't able to post yet but will now. See below.
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:26 PM   #5
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Ok, another update:

Now for me this just doesn't make sense so I'd really like to hear some opinions . I'm hoping that the problem is cleared up for now but I'm looking over my shoulder.

I had disconnected the jack to take that out of the equation. Got the battery tested -perfect. I had switched on the lights at one point and then tried the water heater and the lights dimmed. I then pulled all the fuses to weed that out. Well, when I pulled one of them the lights came back up full strength. Then the water heater worked w/out affecting the lights. The awning worked too. This was with the fuse back in btw. I wish I could remember which one but I know the ballpark.
I re-connected the jack and that worked too. Is this crazy? I'm thinking there might be some loose connection somewhere and it will happen again.
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NERoamer View Post
OK, update:

I was able to find the re-setter switch. Lights worked, panel display worked, awning worked. Went out and flipped the switch for the jack.... everything back out again. So the jack is definitely the culprit.

Now, I've got to figure out why? Is there a grounding issue or faulty connection somewhere? Remember now, this is a new jack, only bought a few weeks ago.
(From what I read?) a common USER Problems that trips tongue Jack breaker is attempting to lift front jack to hookup while REAR Jacks still down? When you do this, you are trying to lift entire RV weight w/ tongue jack, i.e. lift off the ground; If NOT the issue, pull cover and also inspect harness wiring for damage? (sometimes, it is tow damage, sometimes rodent chew damage)
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:35 PM   #7
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Previous post didn't give me enough room no matter how I tried to cut it down.

Anyway I have one other question re: the monitor panel that shows the tank levels etc. The battery indicator is showing how much power the converter is sending to the battery? That seems to fluctuate. In other words if I hit the lights it will show 4 lights across, But then if I try the water heater it might drop down to 2/3. I shut off the water heater and then try the lights again and it stays at 2/3. If I try enough things, even within a short span of time it might drown down to 1/3.

Could this be a sign of the converter going? It really shouldn't in a brand new rv. Are there any things I could try to rule this out? I did try plugging in and cooling down the fridge which seemed to be going ok though I didn't let it go all the way o/n.

Anyway, it seems like a break-out but not a breakthrough as I'm still quite buffaloed as to what went on in the first place.
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:55 PM   #8
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Tank sensors are notorious for being inaccurate anyway, they are reading milli/micro current voltage based on conduction of clean/ dirty water; I would NOT be concerned w/ your readings, but RECOMMEND a VOM Voltmeter to read battery and charger voltages. After 30-minutes w/ NO load/ no charge to allow false high voltage to dissipate. Battery Voltage 12.0=50%; 12.6-12.7vdc= 95-100% charged. CHARGER VOLTAGE CAN be (13.2=Trickle charge) higher up to 14.6vdc, would normally drops down to trickle 13.2-13.4 within 2 to 24-hours and give the 12.6-12.7 charged voltage with a GOOD Battery. Hope this helps. TIP: CLEAN CONNECTION REQUIRED; SLIGHT CORROSION can STOP a battery from charging over about 70-75%
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