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Old 03-26-2011, 08:01 PM   #1
dogdog1
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Default No cabin battery power

2000 Class C Ford Conquest

I'm researching this for a friend who's off the Internet right now. A few days ago his wife started out from CT to VA. Everything was working the day before but on the day she left there was no battery power in the cabin. She spent a couple cold, dark nights before reaching VA last night. Everything seems to be working on Shore Power but still no battery. So, a couple of questions:

They replaced the two primary batteries late last year but forgot the one under the stairs - what is the function of this third battery?

In reading these topics I see the batteries referred to as Chassis, House, Coach etc - can I assume everybody is talking about the same batteries or is there some difference between them?

It appears there are NO wiring schematics to be had for these RV's? Is this correct and most everybody just traces out their own peculiarities?

Thanks for any info.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:06 PM   #2
Frosty
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

Normally Class A & C RV's have one regular style battery for starting the engine, the "chassis battery". Also, there are two deep cycle, AGM, gel cell, ect. type batteries that sit side by side and are wired together for running the DC side of your RV, like the fridge, lights, furnace, and water pump. These are called the "house batteries". If there is no power anywhere in the RV while not hooked up to shore power, a fuse may have blown. The entire DC side of the rig operates on automotive blade style fuses. The AC side operates through circuit breakers like in your regular home. The breakers and fuses are usually together in the converter box inside the rig. Should be a retangular plastic box. Normally when a fuse blows a little red light next to the bad fuse will illuminate. But of course you need a little power to turn on the light. Hope this helps. If you have any additional info, that may help in troubleshooting. Good luck.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:41 PM   #3
Hugh G
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

I have a similar problem, i.e. no "house" power. It all started after I was connected to the garage "shore"power and started the air conditioner, The air conditioner was making a loud noise. I inadvertently started the generator while plugged into "shore" power and things went down-hill. The air conditioner then wouldn't start and neither the generator. The circuit breaker inside my garage was thrown. I reset it.

Now I have AC power in the unit but no DC power. I charged the battery but still no DC power. I've checked all the "house" fuses and circuit breakers I can locate, but still no DC power. I'm wondering if the power convertor might have gotten fried or that I haven't located all the fuses/ breakers.

The RV is a 2005 BT Cruiser and I'm new to RV'ing - haven't had it out of the driveway yet, mainly trying to learn about the thing. Any help would be much apperciated. Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:17 AM   #4
Luckiest Dreamer
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh G
I have a similar problem, i.e. no "house" power. It all started after I was connected to the garage "shore"power and started the air conditioner, The air conditioner was making a loud noise. I inadvertently started the generator while plugged into "shore" power and things went down-hill. The air conditioner then wouldn't start and neither the generator. The circuit breaker inside my garage was thrown. I reset it.

Now I have AC power in the unit but no DC power. I charged the battery but still no DC power. I've checked all the "house" fuses and circuit breakers I can locate, but still no DC power. I'm wondering if the power convertor might have gotten fried or that I haven't located all the fuses/ breakers.

The RV is a 2005 BT Cruiser and I'm new to RV'ing - haven't had it out of the driveway yet, mainly trying to learn about the thing. Any help would be much apperciated. Thanks.
The converter is a place to look. Mine has three fuses on the outlet side. They are spade type and if they are blown----------
I do not know what brand or model you have so more reserch on your part is needed. My converter is under the bed.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:54 PM   #5
Hugh G
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

Thanks folks,
I've yet to locate the "electric convertor w/charger". I've located the Automatic Transfer Releay beneath the toilet area cabinet, but haven't found the Convertor yet. The two items are different, aren't they??? Any help would be apprecaited. The RV is a 2005 BT Cruiser model 5290.
Hugh
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:18 AM   #6
Luckiest Dreamer
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

http://www.progressivedyn.com/
Above is a link from one of the providers of converters that may help you recognise what one looks like. I have a Tourmaster and am not familiar with your model. My converter is wired directly behind the transfer switch and plugs into a 20A outlet that is wired separately into the 110V panel. Both are under the bed as is the 110 panel.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:10 PM   #7
Hugh G
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

I finally located the convertor in my 2005 BT Cruiser model 5290. It's located behind the Power Distribution Box/Panel. To access it, it is necessary to remove the Power Distribution Box to even see it. There is limited working space and I haven't yet checked out the fuses. Thanks for the various help/suggestions.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:56 PM   #8
Hugh G
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

Update: 2005 BT Cruiser model 5290 Electrical Problem

The converter (PD9260C) checks out fine. I troubleshooted it today and found the fuses to be good and the DC output to be good (13.62v). So I'm still trying to find out why I have lost DC power to the coach. I've checked all the coach fuses/circuit breakers I can locate. One thing I noticed, however, was when I "test" and "reset" the bathroom GCFI I hear 3 clicks - seems like the clicks are coming from down below the bathroom sink/toilet area. They are not coming from the transfer relay or converter. Is there a solenoid or breaker somewhere in that area??

To re-cap, my problem started when I was connected to 15-20 amp garage power and was running the air conditioned. As a new RV'er, I cut on the generator. It tripped the garage circuit breaker and there was no AC/DC power to the coach. After I reset the garage circuit breaker I now have AC power to the microwave and TV's but no DC power.The slides work when the E450 engine is running but not otherwise. The generator and air conditioner wont start. I've recharged the 9 month old battery to fully charged and still not DC power. I'm beginning to think that the automatic transfer relay or possible a solenoid might be the problem, but I suspect the transfer relay circuit board might have gotten fried. Perhaps I've overlooked something more simple since I'm so new to RV'ing.

Any help appreciated. Thanks
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:06 PM   #9
todbadriver
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

What was the issue and how was it resolved. You had/have the same RV as my dad and he has no DC power. I appreciate your help.

Dave
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:53 AM   #10
KRoseVideo
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Default Re: No cabin battery power

I have a 2005 GulfStream BT Cruiser BT 5211 and had similar problems with the DC, although I have not started the generator when I was plugged in to a land line.

There were a number of problems that I encountered and eventually overcame. I will try to outline them here and, if there is interest, I could make a video.

1) First thing I needed to do was go to Home Depot and buy a decent Ammeter (Ampere Meter) and a decent Volt Meter. One meter can do both jobs, but I bought separate units.
Use the Volt meter to check the battery to see if they are charged. 12+ Volt on your Volt meter. Check at the Positive side where the cable attaches from the vehicle and the Negative side where the Negative Lead attaches from the vehicle. This assumes you have two 12 volt batteries hooked up in parallel. (See YouTube Videos for how to hook up if necessary.) I used the Ammeter to know what, if any, Current was flowing through the cables to the batteries. The Ammeter helped a lot with diagnosing the problems and with knowing when I had succeeded.

2) The second thing is to know the priority for charging the batteries. FIRST is a Land Line whether 30 amp or the cheater plug 15 amp connection. Either of these will provide power to the converter to charge up your 12 volt batteries. SECOND power Source is from the Vehicle running in which case the excess power after charging up your vehicle battery is diverted to the Coach Batteries. (See 3 below.) THIRD Priority for charging your batteries is the Generator whose main function is to provide AC Current.

3) In my BT Cruiser, There is a 5 amp fuse that is "in-line" approximately 1 foot from the Vehicle battery, in the wire that heads over to the junction on the driver's side of the engine compartment. In my case, we found that the 5 amp fuse was blown. Replacing this helped but not totally. We used the Volt Meter to confirm that we were getting 13+ Volt to the opposite side of this junction, thereby giving higher voltage to charge the 12 Volt battery. I checked at the battery end of the + cable and saw that it was 13 + volt so this was good. Initially, prior to replacing the 5 amp fuse, our DC Volt Meter just showed the Voltage of the house battery which at the time was 12 volt since I had, by this time, bought a battery charger and charged my batteries outside of the camper to be sure that I knew the batteries were both good. (They were 8 months old at the time.) The 12 volt reading was just the voltage of the battery. It still seemed that my batteries were not really getting fully charged. So I moved to step 4 below.

4) Finally solved my problem when I figured out what those three BUSS BREAKERS down in the battery compartment did and how they possibly got dis-connected by the cables or other wires bumping against them. It seems that there are little red buttons sticking out of the front face of each of these breakers. These stick out at a height near the top of the batteries which made me conclude that a cable must have hit one of the three when I installed the two batteries in Parallel as described earlier. I eventually pressed the red buttons on all three of these breakers and then NOTHING WORKED. I knew I was making progress. Using my flash light, I played with the breakers and found a little black flapper sticking out the bottom of each of the Buss Breakers. I pushed these flappers up and they stayed in position. then, Vola, I had full DC Power and could operate all of my DC Appliances.

Note: My DC system provides control power for the Dometic refrigerator to ignite and operate with Propane. Or, the refrigerator can operate with AC Current from a Land Line or Generator. My Frige does not operate with just the DC power.

Hope this helps somebody. Roy // KRoseVideo
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:08 PM   #11
Jpcoll01
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I know this is a very old thread but I have the same issue on my 06 BT Cruiser. I have 13.6 at the battery and on both sides of the 3 breakers down by the battery until I try to start the gen, at that point everything goes out ans I get 3.2 at the breakers even though none of them are kicked (does anyone know of an automatic circuit breaker somewhere on the coach? The circuit will reset itself after an unknown amount of time (or sometime after unhooking the battery ans re-hooking it).
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:01 AM   #12
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Take your batteries and get them load tested, your seeing a surface charge, the batteries show good voltage until loaded, check the voltage and turn the headlights on, you should see the same thing,
Pull the batteries out, charge them, then most auto parts stores will do a free load test.
Surface charge, a battery will build a charge just sitting there not being used, but has no amps to it
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:22 AM   #13
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This makes sense. The 13.4 could be coming from my solar charger which would have been coming into the batteries the whole time I was checking them and then completely discharged when load applied? They are less than a year old but anything is possible. .

Edit: was worth a shot, I unhooked the solar ans batter was showing 12.9 which makes sense. Applied load and something kicked underneath and everything went out. It battery showing 12.9. Another thing is that my inverter which is wired directly to battery is showing the same voltage while the panel is showing less. I have been tripping, waiting (auto reset) trip again for the past couple days ans think there is an auto reset breaker that is completely useless at this point. (Just like any breaker or GFCI will go bad after being repeatedly tripped). Any ideas where that might be?
Also, I heard a click when I pushed the gen start, I assume that was the relay clicking.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:53 AM   #14
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After the breaker (assuming at this point) kicks then everything downstream of the battery goes to 3.2v on that circuit so the panel won’t come on at all as it is expecting 12v. Is anyone aware of anything behind the electrical panel.
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Old 02-11-2020, 12:36 PM   #15
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I'm thinking that putting the buss breakers behind the wheels was not a good idea. I wonder if I can put a shield in front of them. Could a pebble hitting the red button trip them? What would cause them to trip off?
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Old 03-08-2020, 02:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed.b View Post
I'm thinking that putting the buss breakers behind the wheels was not a good idea. I wonder if I can put a shield in front of them. Could a pebble hitting the red button trip them? What would cause them to trip off?
ed
You tied into a OLD thread from [2011-2018], but guessing you have a Trailer, and I agree electric SHOULD BE in waterproof box, but if 12vdc tripping battery breakers, whatever LOAD is on them can cause trips, e.g. SLIDE, can trip if button held too long, or solenoid sticks closed, or Battery Polarity backwards. WHAT is your issue?
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