2003 Ultra Supreme leveling Equalizer Systems control panel 1702

Joined
Mar 28, 2021
Posts
14
Hello my friends. I've just taken my unit out of storage and the levelers are not working. At first I had no power on the control panel, then I did, now I don't. When I did, I'd push a button and nothing would happen, any of them. I'm assuming the control panel itself is shot, Equalizer Systems 1702. Does anyone have a replacement they'd be willing to sell? OR does anyone have a diagram of how to wire individual switches so I can put them up and down manually? I've contacted Equalizer systems and they only refer me to an upgrade to a new automatic leveling system for a couple of thousand. That's not an option, so maybe I can get it going with someone's help. Thanks in advance! Mark
 
There is a fuse on the back of the panel. Make sure it is not blown. Make sure the wiring connection on the back of the panel is secure. Your house batteries have to be charged or the hydraulics will not work. Start your engine and let it run a bit to charge the batteries and see if the hydraulics work with the engine running.

I have attached all the info I have on the Equalizer system. It shows how to manually lower the jacks and troubleshoot the system.
 

Attachments

  • SERVICE_INFO_FOR_GULF_STREAM.pdf
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  • 7187 PLUMBING DETAIL 6 FUNC.pdf
    99.7 KB · Views: 50
  • 7187 PUMP WIRING 6 FUNC.pdf
    87.3 KB · Views: 42
  • SLIDE SWITCH 2 WITH JACKS.pdf
    25.5 KB · Views: 44
  • Hyd Manual Override.pdf
    67.4 KB · Views: 44
There is a fuse on the back of the panel. Make sure it is not blown. Make sure the wiring connection on the back of the panel is secure. Your house batteries have to be charged or the hydraulics will not work. Start your engine and let it run a bit to charge the batteries and see if the hydraulics work with the engine running.

I have attached all the info I have on the Equalizer system. It shows how to manually lower the jacks and troubleshoot the system.

The fuse is good, wiring connections are good, house batteries are at 13.29 on the house charger. Emergency brake applied, won't power up now with engine on or off, that's why I figured I'd try to wire switches to each leg, but can't figure out the wiring to the switches. I need help with that, or if someone lives in the Palatka Florida area, could maybe use some hands on help. Thanks!
 
Hello, I realize this thread is old, but I'm reaching out in hopes that you might be able to help me get some info. I own a 2003 Gulfstream Ultra Supreme with an Equalizer leveling system with the !702 manual control panel. The panel quit working and I was unable to get it repaired, and purchasing a new system was not an option for me, so I figured out the wiring and built a mechanical panel which works very well. My problem is that I cannot find a wiring schematic for how the jack switches are tied into the main control panel, consequently I do not have automatic shut off and light indicators when the jacks are fully retracted. I am trying to get these wiring diagrams and thought , since it appears you had the same problem, maybe you might have found some info or wiring diagrams. If so, would you be willing to share or sell this info. I am to the point where I am grasping at straws fo information. Thank you. Al
 
Al, unfortunately, I no longer have the rig, so I can't look up specifics, but before I let her go I was able to get the control panel working on three legs. At that point I tied the front 2 levelers together so they would work in tandem and just used plastic levelers under either leg to balance the load. Other than that I just don't remember the specifics you mention. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help, best of luck. Mark
 
All the Equalizer drawings I had I posted back in 2022. I only had one proximity switch on my jacks and was not prepared to buy more. After some research, what I found out was the pump is on a 90 sec timer. When you push the “all retract” button the timer would start. The jacks would come up and when all the jacks were up, the pressure in the system would build up. A pressure switch in the pump would open a bypass valve and send the fluid back to the tank. After the 90 secs the pump would stop. You can hear a change in sound when the bypass opens.

That is how I operated the jacks and 9 times out of 10 I had no problem. There was one campground we went to where the campsite fell off just after the rear wheels. As the back jacks were extended quite a ways, they never made it all the way up within the 90 secs. For those times, I just manually finished bringing the jacks up.

My Equalizer panel worked so I don’t know where the pump timer was located. It could have been on the circuit board but more than likely on the pump. If you talk to a hydraulic pump person they may be able to sort it out for you. If you do find such a person, have them run through the 90 secs to make sure it works.
 
Thank you for your reply. I had previously looked at the drawings you had posted, but what I'm looking for is the wiring schematics for the the total leveling system so I can determine the relationship of the jack switches to the retract system. From the info I have accumulated, it seems there were two equalizer retract systems. On one system the cut out is controlled by a pressure switch and on the other system, the cut out is controlled by the leg switches , which also control the position lights. My system has the leg switches. I have built a control panel with mechanical switches and relays and LED lights to replace the original electronic 1702 panel. My panel works exactly like the original with the exception that there is no cut out when fully retracted. If I leave the all up switch on after retraction the pump will continue to run until it blows the main breaker located by the batteries. What I need to know is how the leg switches send a full retract signal to the pump. I used the original 12 pin plug that plugs into the 1702 panel. I unsoldered the male portion of the plug from the circuit board and rewired it to my control panel so my panel plugs in like the original. This has been a challenge for me to design my own wiring diagrams with relays, diodes and switches. I used toggle switches because they were smaller than the rocker switches. I was able to keep the size down so everything fits into the original cavity in the dash. Thanks again for you reply.
 
Thank you for your reply. I had previously looked at the drawings you had posted, but what I'm looking for is the wiring schematics for the the total leveling system so I can determine the relationship of the jack switches to the retract system. From the info I have accumulated, it seems there were two equalizer retract systems. On one system the cut out is controlled by a pressure switch and on the other system, the cut out is controlled by the leg switches , which also control the position lights. My system has the leg switches. I have built a control panel with mechanical switches and relays and LED lights to replace the original electronic 1702 panel. My panel works exactly like the original with the exception that there is no cut out when fully retracted. If I leave the all up switch on after retraction the pump will continue to run until it blows the main breaker located by the batteries. What I need to know is how the leg switches send a full retract signal to the pump. I used the original 12 pin plug that plugs into the 1702 panel. I unsoldered the male portion of the plug from the circuit board and rewired it to my control panel so my panel plugs in like the original. This has been a challenge for me to design my own wiring diagrams with relays, diodes and switches. I used toggle switches because they were smaller than the rocker switches. I was able to keep the size down so everything fits into the original cavity in the dash. Thanks again for you reply.
Do you have any information from when you did this? My 1702 panel is bad and I don't want to do the auto level conversion. I have someone that can do the work on the board, but he needs a schematic for it.
 

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