2004 Endura leveling Jacks issue

Mike1931

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2017
Messages
121
Hoping someone out there can help us with a solution to our leveling Jack issue
We have a 2004 Endura 6340. This isn’t the first time we’ve had the Jack control panel issue.
The first time was a number of years ago. We were able to get the new 1702 replacement 1702 Jack control panel for it. This time the 1702 Jack control panel is obsolete. Who here has the information of what we are to do next.. We are ok with a back yard fix too! as long as it comes with directions and pictures!

Please give us some direction!!

Thanking you in advance,
Mike & Sherri Root
Tulalip Washington
35 miles northwest of Seattle
 
I would think you could find a new panel, even if used, with a search.

In an extreme case, could always rig a few toggle switches to "J1" connector (ignore J2 and J3) and make your own manual panel . . . Of course you'd need to be comfortable with doing this sort of wiring. Select a jack, set direction and run pump . . . (power to pins 7 & 11, RR jack runs. Add power to pin 9 also and it runs other way, for example).

This should be your pinout:

Connector J1 (12 pin)
1 Brown Left front jack valve output 12 VDC +
2 Brown/trace Left front jack light/leg switch
3 White Right front jack valve output 12 VDC +
4 White/trace Right front jack light/leg switch
5 Orange Left rear jack valve output 12VDC +
6 Orange/trace Left rear jack light/leg switch
7 Yellow Right rear jack valve output 12VDC +
8 Yellow/trace Right rear jack light/switch
9 Green Directional Control Valve DV1 12 VDC +
10 Pink or Red Ignition disable input 12 VDC + from Key On
11 Blue Pump motor solenoid 12 VDC + output
12 Black Control panel Ground 12 VDC – (chassis grnd)

J2 (3 pin)
1 Red The J-2 is the feed to the level sensor. No Field
2 Black& Bare Measureable test allowed on this connector
3 Clear Data Communication.

J3 (2 pin)
1 Red Power 12VDC + (if present)
2 Black Ground 12VDC –

J3 (fused)
1 (installed supplied) Power 12 VDC

Not best option, but is an interesting possibility.
 
Have you done this?
If so where did you get the momentary switches?
And do they all have to have their own power supply?
You don’t mention a retract all option.
I have wired in a separate from the original power supply. A 12v 20 amp fused power supply years ago.

Equalizer wants to up size from 1/8” ID hydraulic hoses, measure all the hydraulic lines that go to the jacks.
They will supply the new leveling panel, wiring, new hoses and all other parts to make it work. $1,400 to $1,600 plus freight.
I didn’t ask if I was going to have to change the valve body as well.

Any answers will be helpful, pictures would be great too!!!

Mike & Sherri Root
Tulalip Washington
35 miles northwest of Seattle
 
Custom jacks

Sounds like they are going to upgrade you to the auto-level system (control panel #3103). The way the auto system reports gear up is different from yours, will require some expertise to install (one discrete Vs four). If what I said in last reply did not make sense, I'd suggest you use this option.

Otherwise, toggle switches (available many places) using power at existing control panel (J3) will return (simple) manual control of your jacks. You can get elaborate and use the individual discretes to light LED's for each jack, add a relay to tie in ignition disable, etc. if you want. "Retract all" can be flipping several switches at once, or install separate switch for this . . . Depends on your level of comfort with electrical systems.

Yes, I have done these sort of things before, I am an RV Service Tech at RV Dealership near Chicago. Maybe best you find someone near you to assist?
 
Sounds like they are going to upgrade you to the auto-level system (control panel #3103). The way the auto system reports gear up is different from yours, will require some expertise to install (one discrete Vs four). If what I said in last reply did not make sense, I'd suggest you use this option.

Otherwise, toggle switches (available many places) using power at existing control panel (J3) will return (simple) manual control of your jacks. You can get elaborate and use the individual discretes to light LED's for each jack, add a relay to tie in ignition disable, etc. if you want. "Retract all" can be flipping several switches at once, or install separate switch for this . . . Depends on your level of comfort with electrical systems.

Yes, I have done these sort of things before, I am an RV Service Tech at RV Dealership near Chicago. Maybe best you find someone near you to assist?

I Understand a portion of the wiring list you sent.
1. Brown Left front jack valve output 12 VDC +. This says its for out put.
#3, #5, #7, are the same,
Does this mean, #9 hooks up to the return side on all the Momentary switches?

What i don't see is a wire that pulls the jacks back in/up. Unless its as stated above using the #9 wire as the return .
My plan was to use a 3 way switches that are Momentary on, off, and Momentary on.
The jack lights is position lights are a pretty easy task.

Can we continue this by private email.

Mike Root
Tulalip Washington
35 miles northwest of
Seattle
Text Only 425-344-4709
[email protected]
 
I posted this in another thread about Endura leveling.

Our Endura has also had some slide electrical issues. Most of them stem from the fact that all of the connections are under the coach, unprotected from the elements. The connectors are not outdoor rated in my opinion. I have found that all of our slide issues were fixable by disconnecting, cleaning, and reconnecting everything. It might not be your fix, but it’s free to try. There are also several posts about poor ground connections on the slide motor, but that was not our issue,

You might try using some Deoxit brand contact cleaner to assist.​

You might also replace all of the connectors with waterproof connectors, like Deutsch. That’s on my to-do-someday list!
 
I would check with Gulf Stream... They have parts people on staff. They can provide info on the original and replacement parts...
 

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