2007 Tour Master Lithium Conversion and Li-BIM Wiring

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Original Member Title: 2007 Tour Master Lithium battery conversion
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An RVer converted a 2007 Tour Master to lithium with two 300Ah 12V batteries for the generator/inverter bank and two 100Ah 12V batteries for the coach bank, then set the converter to lithium mode. The main issue was wiring after bypassing the IRD module: the rear bay yellow wires appeared tied together, both going hot with either ignition or the emergency start switch, leaving the member unsure how to provide separate ignition and emergency signals to a Li-BIM relay setup.

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Skohlman

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RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Aug 10, 2025
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Hello I replaced generator inverter batteries with 2 x 300amp 12v batteries and the coach batteries with 2 x 100amp 12v batteries.

Set converter to lithium mode. I change mode to control relay to bridge both lithium banks together for charging via engine run, generator run, or shore power. I also will be using a Li-Bim to control bridges doing a charge condition. To bridge all batteries start and both lithium banks when possible.

My issue or problem is that the I bypassed the IRD module but that wire to that bay is both ignition and emergency so wire to relay where I need or could use but ignition and emergency signals at the Li-Bim.
 
I the rear rear bay, there’s 2 yellow wires which seem to be connected together electronically. And 2 white wires which seem connected electronically also but be ground. The 2 yellows goes hot 12vdc when in ignition or emergency is on. Is there a way to separate there’s 2 yellow wires so both signals are in this bay so I have 1 ignition and 1 emergency signal? But I assume that’s in the electrical bay under the drivers seat.
 
From the emergency switch by dash it’s 12vdc hot when hit, but where does that go? I assume that’s in the electrical bay under the drivers seat.

Also by an ohm meter I assume those yellow wires are connected together by that electrical bay under the drivers seat. .3 ohms
 
Now an interesting fact that emergency switch which is 12vdc one side then goes 12vdc when hold down but is 12vdc when ignition is on also.

So wonder if my issue is that it’s in the dash and not below in the electrical bay under the seat.
 
I too updated my front "inverter" batteries to a single 280 A/hr lithium and the rear house batteries to a single 230 A/hr lithium this past year. Neither of the batteries I put in are not rated to do an engine start. To fix the generator start issue I added a small auto lead acid battery up front. I don't do the emergency start switch thing since it had not worked when I bought the coach and I didn't care to figure out why.

I replaced my old Xantrex modified sine inverter when it failed with a newer pure sine inverter/charger that also supported lithium. It only charges the inverter lithium battery. My inverter battery is isolated from the rest of the rig and only connected to the inverter/charger. The small generator start battery is still connected to the engine circuit like the original diagram shows the inverter batteries connected. I also added a small 10A NOCO marine charger that is solely powered via the output of the generator where I replaced the very ugly interconnect box with a nicer DIN rail box with a breaker and actual termination block in it. My lithium and small lead acid are strapped down to a pressure treated 2x8 that spans the original battery tray.

The house battery was swapped out and the original IRD replaced with a LiBIM device. I also updated my house battery converter/charger that is under the bed with a newer version that supports lithium. I also have an "AMP-L-Start", big brother to the "Trik-L-Start", device bridging the chassis and house battery. I know that device is no longer available.

I attached some pictures.
 

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Your picture #6 is similar like mine but the large relay that is on the right moved to the place you put the Li-Bim controller. Found that place with the Li-Bim is the coach and inverter batteries. Where the large relay on the right side are coach and chassis. Or the lithium batteries and lead batteries for starting.

My 300amp battery with a 200amp output being 2x 300amps with 400amp output has no issues starting generator think it spins faster / stronger.
 
Your picture #6 is similar like mine but the large relay that is on the right moved to the place you put the Li-Bim controller. Found that place with the Li-Bim is the coach and inverter batteries. Where the large relay on the right side are coach and chassis. Or the lithium batteries and lead batteries for starting.

My 300amp battery with a 200amp output being 2x 300amps with 400amp output has no issues starting generator think it spins faster / stronger.
 

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I too updated my front "inverter" batteries to a single 280 A/hr lithium and the rear house batteries to a single 230 A/hr lithium this past year. Neither of the batteries I put in are not rated to do an engine start. To fix the generator start issue I added a small auto lead acid battery up front. I don't do the emergency start switch thing since it had not worked when I bought the coach and I didn't care to figure out why.

I replaced my old Xantrex modified sine inverter when it failed with a newer pure sine inverter/charger that also supported lithium. It only charges the inverter lithium battery. My inverter battery is isolated from the rest of the rig and only connected to the inverter/charger. The small generator start battery is still connected to the engine circuit like the original diagram shows the inverter batteries connected. I also added a small 10A NOCO marine charger that is solely powered via the output of the generator where I replaced the very ugly interconnect box with a nicer DIN rail box with a breaker and actual termination block in it. My lithium and small lead acid are strapped down to a pressure treated 2x8 that spans the original battery tray.

The house battery was swapped out and the original IRD replaced with a LiBIM device. I also updated my house battery converter/charger that is under the bed with a newer version that supports lithium. I also have an "AMP-L-Start", big brother to the "Trik-L-Start", device bridging the chassis and house battery. I know that device is no longer available.

I attached some pictures.
 
Well I think and seems working the lithium batteries I them parallel 300amp / 200amp BMS works fine I can also look for the amps to see what it’s draining. AI stated I could do it ok for
a generator small generator not the main engine diesel.
 
I emailed my battery manufacturer and was told to not use them as a starter battery even for a small engine. e.g. generator

This was the response...
We regret to inform you that the 12V 280Ah lithium battery is not suitable for starting a generator. Please do not use it to start a generator on any occasion.Our batteries are specifically designed for applications such as home energy storage, powering trolling motors, and serving as service batteries for running household appliances in RVs, among others.
 
Well my thinking my generator 7500w doesn’t go by 200amps for starter. So with 400amp draw it fine that I use that batteries to start it.
 

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