air brake air tanks

[frank-GSO]

where is the pull lines ,or how is it done , to blow down the wet [reserve] tank on my unit .where or how are the blow downs accessed. its a 99 svb coach.

 

[rob-GSO]

where is the pull lines ,or how is it done , to blow down the wet [reserve] tank on my unit .where or how are the blow downs accessed. its a 99 svb coach.

Are you talking about the air tanks, are you trying to drain mositure out of them?

 

[frank-GSO]

yes

 

[rob-GSO]

You have to crawl under the front, I assume yours is a desiel, and there are two canisters with manual drain valves, you have to turn them manually to open them. Here is a link to a member of this group, he really has some good ideas on safety and getting under these units.
I am not sure how else to do a link, I am sure there is a better way. His user name is quikduk (Ken)

viewtopic.php?t=1442&highlight=

 

[quikduk]

Thanks Rob. You are too kind.

Frank, I haven't forgotten about the info I am going to send you.

I changed my manual valves to valves with pull cords. I temp. ran them ino the front areas of the front fenderwells BUT I will be relocating them forward along the driver's side in the generator compartment as they will function better...or I will have to set up a system of pulleys to make the pull smoother.

As soon as our recent snow melts, I will take some pics of the current condition and valve. I'll also try to get the part number. They are 1/8" M-NPT (male-National Pipe Thread) and are available from local big truck parts supply houses for about $8 each. You purge the air, unscrew the old valve, screw in and tighten the new valve and then route the cables to an area that is free of obstructions and is easy to get to.

There are also 12V actuated valves that can be purchased but they are a bit more complicated to hook up. Not impossible mind you, just more complicated.

 

[frank-GSO]

thanks guys. i will get underneath and check it out when the weather warms up. its -25c plus and about 24" snow where i live.

 

[rdlamb]

Frank:
There is also a Halex air dryer canister to help keep your lines dry. You may need to check the maintenance intervals, but I have mine changed Q 2years just for safety.

 

[quikduk]

Frank,

The dryer Rick was talking about "drys" the air generated by the "compressor" mounted to the engine. This provides air to your coaches brakes and springs/bags. I just rebuilt mine but I only took two finished (assembled photos).

It is shown here in this service thread with clickable pictures (resize larger for easier viewing):

viewtopic.php?t=1442

The coalescing filter and dessicant cartridge should be changed at a maximum interval of 2 years or 24 months whichever comes first. If you have a lot more moisture in your local climate or have a compressor that is/may be leaking a bit, the intervals will be more frequent.