BT cruiser full rebuild

I too had a gap on passenger side cab to coach connection below gutter drain and am trying to replace screws outside many break off at head so thought if I could get a knowledgeable individual of what you have replaced outside screws with? also my paint looks the same as yours do you have any information on how to get those different colored screws
 
Beds in and tested

The bed systems works great. 2 - 6” twin beds. We cut 10” off the width this we used to make 3 - 24” bolsters. The beds pull out to 37” or we can used them at 26”. Nice to have choices. We took it out for a shack down cruise.

I added 2 stabilizers on the rear. Found a neat trick to help level the rear. I used the onboard compressor to raise the rear then brought it down to the stabilizers at different heights to get it level. Worked good. I since added valves to adjust each side independently.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1001.jpg
    IMG_1001.jpg
    205.7 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1002.jpg
    IMG_1002.jpg
    222.5 KB · Views: 17
Water from gap at seam

❤️life;41239 said:
I too had a gap on passenger side cab to coach connection below gutter drain and am trying to replace screws outside many break off at head so thought if I could get a knowledgeable individual of what you have replaced outside screws with? also my paint looks the same as yours do you have any information on how to get those different colored screws

I was able to reuse the screws that I removed. I broke one when I used a drill driver to reinstall it. After that I only used a square head screw driver. I didn’t break any more. We found some spray paint that was very close in color. Poked the screws in cardboard and sprayed the heads. Good to go.

If you need the color codes for bigger sections you should contact GS. They will need your rigs info. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0562.jpg
    IMG_0562.jpg
    142 KB · Views: 9
Hello JU "Just Two",

RE: BT Cruiser Rebuild Project

You Sir are a ROCK STAR and my new HERO - LOL!

Thanks for sharing your project !

baby-laugh.gif


Thank You

Ted Mortl
Senior Systems Specialist
(262) 498-6354 Mobile Phone
IAS | Industrial Automation Services
Sales . Services . Upgrades
 
Simple design requires a return line to the tank

Sorry I just got started back at the rebuild. I had a tree come down on my barn had to clean that up.

The return line goes to the water tank. With the valve in the heat position water comes from the water heater goes to the tank. Then move the valve and hot water is at the shower.

I bought the valve on Amazon. They actually have kits. Some are electronically controlled with a solenoid and a hot indicator. Too complicated.
We were able to test this setup on a weeklong trip to the Atlantic. Got down in the 40s at night. We camped at a dry camp site This worked great. Instant hot water to the shower and saved water.
 
We took Our Cruiser out on several shake down cruises. Ran into a few issues and created a punch list.

One issue was the 12 volt refrigerator set a E3 error. E3 = under voltage, tests showed that it was actually over voltage. Move it to the 12 volt house batteries and that bug was fixed.
A couple of drawers came opened on maneuvering curves, added some magnets and problem solved.

The diesel heater worked great. I got a chance to fill the tank from a diesel pump at the gas station. I had only filled it using fuel cans during testing.

All in all a successful trip.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1031.jpeg
    IMG_1031.jpeg
    122.3 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1028.jpeg
    IMG_1028.jpeg
    95.5 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1027.jpeg
    IMG_1027.jpeg
    130.1 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1026.jpeg
    IMG_1026.jpeg
    117.8 KB · Views: 17

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top