Dump Deep Cell and go to Lithium???

[Big_John]

I have a 2021 Class C and it has two, deep cell batteries. I wonder if anyone has considered swapping out your traditional deep cell batteries for one of the modern Lithium batteries that have bunches of capacity and delivery?



.......

 

[Stovebolter]

Use the search function on top of page and type in Wet Cell to Lithium

 

[proost]

We traded in our deep cycle batteries and added a bank of lithium and we have never been happier. You get double the use out of an equivalent battery because you can take them all the way down to zero without damaging the batteries. Also, they are about a third of the weight.

After three years on the road full-time, we always tell folks that if you were going to do an upgrade, the batteries should be close to first because you greatly reduce your reliance on charging and the stress associated with battery management when you convert. We love them.

 

[THenne1713]

If you go Lithium, expect $1,000 expense min, and add DC-DC charge controller or a LI-BIM Controller to protect Alternator/ batteries.

 

[Seadog63]

Well big John if your going to boondock you gotta figure out what your usage will be and will you need a converter to go from 12 volt to 110 volt like your microwave, etc. not to mention solar panels. That’s if your camping that way, yeah the Jenny will charge them. And see if your rv if moterized has the capacity to keep them up to charge. Lithium is nice and is very expensive, like $400.00 per battery for starters pending on who you buy from and brand like battleborns. If your just wanting to replace and use hookups in the campgrounds etc I’d stick with good deep cycles. You can buy three deep cycles for the price of one lithium as a average and yeah the lithium has a good life to them but bottom line is what your willing to spend, how you camp or want to camp. It’s all about choices. Check you tube out on rv lithium battery installs and all that,, there is a mountain of excellent info there that can help you. I stick with good deep cycles on my motorhome beings we use full hookups all the time and even if we overnight in a Cracker Barrel and the weather is mild our deep cycles are more than enough for most everything. Tho we use the Jenny on occasion. Hope this help’s somewhat.

 

[RY469]

Look at amp-hour capacity. Lead acid chemistry allows about 50% capacity usage, where lithium allows about 80% capacity usage. One amp hour equals one amp used for one hour (pretty straight forward). Plus lithium discharges at constant voltage, where lead acid tapers off on voltage. All this said, lithium is better, plus the life span is much longer for lithium. Lithium batteries typically have BMS (battery management system) built into them. They are happy in a certain voltage range, and the BMS manages that. So, as long as the lithium batteries you buy have BMS, I say go for it. They will last longer and provide better power in the long term. 100AH gives about 80AH usage (lithium), where lead acid only about 50AH usage. Five years (lead) Vs 10-15 years (lithium) age.

 

[Big_John]

If you go Lithium, expect $1,000 expense min, and add DC-DC charge controller or a LI-BIM Controller to protect Alternator/ batteries.

Yep... this is why I WON'T go the route of Lithium. I am not going to rebuild/purchase a whole new system for a 2021 unit where everything is new at this point.

I think I am going to add two more batteries, Renogy AGM gel. That would give me 4 batteries... 2 that are 80 ah and 2 that are 100 ah.

 

[RY469]

It is best to only connect same age / size batteries together. Your bank will only perform as well as the worse ones. In this case your old 80Ah batteries will drag down your new ones, you will not see the 100Ah benefit. Best to just use your old ones for your boat trolling motor or a separate circuit with a DC-DC charger supporting them. Use the new ones for the house, exclusively.

 

[nicklee]

Lithium batteries will be much more convenient, but more expensive.

 

[Big_John]

Well, in November during some Black Friday sales, I went ahead and purchased a solar/Lithium setup for my Class C. I still need to do the install, but no rush as the RV is in the barn and there is 2 feet of snow outside. I won't be traveling anywhere very soon. I bought a Renogy system with a 200Ah battery and four panels that I will mount on top.

I think I will have to scrape up some more money and buy a new 'house' converter, as my 2021's unit is not rated for Lithium.

 

[Chuck v]

Before you spend the high cost and large amount of effort to convert to lithium, you might want to check with your insurance company as to what will be covered if you do any part of this work yourself. You might be able to have a certified company/individual "bless" it all, but don't know what gets saved financially going that route...


Lithium is considered a hazardous material by the transportation department, so like propane it has strict rules for its deployment in highway vehicles and vessels.


You can't get much further from road service and emergency response than on an ocean going boat, so here is a posting you might want to consider:


Lithium and Insurance
Hi all,
I am considering switching to lithium, and recently heard that insurance companies are leery about insuring boats with LiFePO4 (or any other Li batteries). I asked my agent (IMIS, policy is Jackline, a Market product), and they replied that the underwriter has a list of requirements that must be met for your policy to be accepted. They require that a certified marine electrician do the install, a BMS manufactured by a US company, and only for "lower value" boats (which leaves my boat uninsurable).

I am looking for other options and will report what I find.

Has anyone else run into this? Did you find an insurer willing to cover boats with LiFePO4 batteries?

Thanks for any input.
Kent


Just another aspect to consider and address when doing such extensive modifications to a large value, insured vehicle operated on public roadways...


Chuck

 

[Spads]

If you have a Conquest 6245 I can offer a few tips having just made the transition myself.
Also, if you're planning to do any dry camping & have the 12 volt fridge, (my opinion) lithium & solar are darn near a necessity.

 

[Just two]

Running AC on batteries when boon docking.

We want to run our roof AC in our BT5210 on batteries. So we added a 3000 watt inverter and a few batteries. 800 watts 12 volt in series parallel to output 24 volt (25.6 volt) for the inverter. We ordered a soft start for the AC and a 400 watt alternator. Tested the AC with out the soft start and didn’t have any issues, just thought it would be better to have it to make starting easier.

 

[proost]

Well, in November during some Black Friday sales, I went ahead and purchased a solar/Lithium setup for my Class C. I still need to do the install, but no rush as the RV is in the barn and there is 2 feet of snow outside. I won't be traveling anywhere very soon. I bought a Renogy system with a 200Ah battery and four panels that I will mount on top.

I think I will have to scrape up some more money and buy a new 'house' converter, as my 2021's unit is not rated for Lithium.

Hey congrats. I wanted to point out that the price point for LiFePO4 is dropping. Will Prowse profiled Redodo's 100ah 12.8V batteries and tore them apart. He said they were outstanding in build quality and their price is $239 apiece. I bought two and added them to my bank. Solidly built and doing exactly what they're supposed to do.

 

[Chuck v]

Just Two,


Looks like a good project for your BT Crusier !! I suspect that the air conditioner on that unit is around 12,000 to 15,000 BTUs so it should run well on a quality 3000 Watt inverter (and the soft start will make it less stressful...)


I do have some questions about the other numbers you quoted above -- seems likely there is some confusion on the measurement units stated. A 400 watt alternator is tiny, perhaps you meant to say a 400 AMP alternator? Also is this alternator in addition to the running gear's electrical system, or an upgrade to it? If it is separate, is it a 12 volt or a 24 volt unit? I understand your inverter requires a 24 volt nominal input...


My other question is about battery capacity. Again, I would guess you meant an 800 AMP-HOUR battery bank, as an 800 watt battery is about the size needed for a string trimmer... Is this battery bank made from 4 each 12 volt high capacity batteries, or does it use a higher number? Where do these fit in your RV??? My own inverter bank on my 42 foot Tour Master consisted of 4 each golf cart batteries, so it amounted to about 450 AMP-HOURS of storage for that 2500 watt inverter. It took a lot of space across the front of the rig in the area of the generator...so wondering how many batteries are in your bank and where they fit in your BT. How much does all this weigh, and how much remains of your cargo capacity for your gear, food and you???


Thanks for the pictures, and more would be useful in seeing how you accomplished this.


Chuck

 

[Just two]

Chuck,
You are correct 800 amp hour batteries. These are for the 24 volt system. I replaced the original lead acid house battery with 2 100 amp hour lion safari batteries. The 12 volts still runs the house stuff lights, frig. Heater fan. The little batteries 12 volt fit nicely in the original spot in front of the generator. The 4 big batteries are staged in two parallel rows behind the passenger seat. I will get a picture in the morning.

Also correct on the alternator upgrade I ordered a replacement for the 210 amp. I have 2 - 12 to 24 volt B2Bs that I will put in parallel. The new alternator is 400 amp from Tucson Alternators.

 

[Just two]

Power up

Alternator came in. I will need to get a shorter serpentine belt, the pulley is slightly smaller. Got the wire kit, should make installation easier. The b2b will power the battery bank at 24 volts. Got 2, figured on activating them independently with their own switch on the dash.

 

[Just two]

Soft start installed.

Added the soft start. Was a trick wiring but it definitely drops the starting amps. It was around $120 on Amazon. Not a bad price when I first saw them they were 400 plus.

 

[[email protected]]

How do you find them at 30 or below?

 

[Just two]

Before the install startup 13 amps, after install 9+ amps. The running amps may be slightly less after the install, but not by much. I am running it from our 3000 watt inverter. I will check how long it can run when it gets warmer longer. We still have the original generator. We will see if we need it after the test.