fixing little things on a Tour Master 40C

[Chuck v]

Been getting our coach ready for a few trips this summer and have been working on a couple of things that have always annoyed me.

First, the retractable step cover for the foot well in front of the co-pilot seat had a thick wood front piece as shipped from GS, and it was both loose and protruded from the trim piece that finished the 'nose' of the step cover. When we had an upgraded rubber flooring put in the step well last fall when the carpet was upgraded, they removed and then reassembled this 6 x 29 trim piece and it just got even more rickety.

I took it apart today and discovered that the screws mounting it were missing the aluminum square tube framing and instead went into the very thin ply panel that skinned the underside of the step cover frame. These screws of course have broken out and can never provide any structural strength... The screws were in the factory original locations and had little wooden 'buttons' covering the recessed holes in the cherry finished panel, so I know it was the original configuration and it was far from satisfactory.

I went down to Tap Plastics and had them fabricate an appropriate sized piece of the proper color rigid 1/2 inch material (as used in cutting boards...) with a stepped edge so it will fit up into the groove in the nose trim, and located four new screws through this plastic panel that go solidly into the aluminum frame.

While I had it apart, I put some glides in the ends of the nose trim to ensure that the cover would not get jammed to one side or the other as it traveled in and out -- works slick now and looks far better than original.

Tomorrow I will put a small rubber bumper under the place where the Wineguard off air antenna wing front edge is vibrating against the roof at cruising speeds -- most annoying and comes and goes depending on head and cross winds...

Here is a tongue-in-cheek suggestion that the wife made while following our coach prior to getting the toad set-up: She jokingly said that we needed a large flat screen display on the rear end cap of the coach with the image coming from the forward view out the windshield of the coach -- this would let those following us know that the other traffic in front of the coach is the hold up, and not the fine TM40...

Chuck

 

[mfa]

...works slick now and looks far better than original.

...

Picture...?

 

[Chuck v]

OK haven't posted a picture here in a while and hope I still remember how to do it...

http://s970.photobucket.com/albums/ae18 ... cement.jpg

You can see at the ends of the gray "nose trim" at the top edge of the step cover where I added the white glides to keep it from binding.
The beige screw head covers were from the hardware store -- not a very close match to the panel but still better looking than the screw heads.

Chuck

...guess I've forgotten how to attach the image directly, but the link above points to the picture...

 

[GStream40]

How's That?

 

[mfa]

I like the looks of the rubber flooring, too...

 

[Chuck v]

Thanks GStream40 -- I will have to tinker a bit and see what it is that I have forgotten about the required steps to post images that show up directly within the thread.

My next small project on the T40-C prior to taking the wife to the coast tomorrow for a few days was to address the lack of hold-open support on the fold down mirror panel on the stateroom dresser and the lid of the compartmentalized drawer directly below that dresser top. It is amazing that there was no factory hardware to accomplish this -- the mirror panel is quite heavy and when fully open it rests just very little over center against the window valance. The pull out drawer has a somewhat lighter lid but still was sorely lacking support hardware. NOT acceptable to the better half.

I used two very lightweight lid supports for the drawer cover. There is enough room above the drawer slides to mount one side of each bracket, and the other just fastens to the edge of the cover. I put two small clear vinyl bumpers on the edge of the dresser counter just above this drawer so the lid will no longer strike that edge.

Then I turned my attention to the mirrored dresser top itself. Not much room here for hardware, but I found a support at Lowe's that would fit if I modified it a bit. Had to turn the angle bracket at one end around to project back over the strap itself so it would clear the mirror. Finding the "right" spot to mount both this bracket and the other end of the support on the ledge the top rests on when closed was a bit of a challenge. They have to be exactly lined up when closed, yet when open allow the mirror to be in the "slightly beyond vertical" position for correct mirror use.

I will try to include pictures here, and if I am still having problems will include links...

As I was doing this work I noticed that teh screws that were used to mound the slide parts tot he drawer were long enough to protrude into the internal compartments, leaving sharp points to snag the contents. I removed these screws and cut them off short enough to be flush or a little less, and I was careful to mount the added support brackets at a divider location so those screws would not show from the inside...

This is not rocket science -- and proper attention to details such as these should be expected on a coach of this class. SIGH...

Chuck

-- pictures worked--

 

[Chuck v]

OK -- We did not make it out on our trip today because we found some signs of mice in the rig, and I've declared war!!

I had already done the 'normal' things like putting steel wool in the holes/cracks where wire and plumbing go through cabinet walls and checked for any passages from the basement areas to the living areas lacking the factory applied foam caulking. I had also removed the drawers in the kitchen and screened in the rear framing, and taken the baffles out from under the two small sinks and completely sealed the floor openings there. Have not has any signs of mice in any cabinets since but yesterday found some evidence in the bedroom and under the bed mechanism...

Now I am addressing the heater vents. I found some fine mesh made of expanded metal -- good retention of shape compared to woven screening. Here is picture of one of the small round vents, the flat mesh before forming, and the "tool" that I used for a mandrel (a PVC fitting I had on hand.) Next picture is the rear view of the formed mesh that has been pressed into the vent from the rear. Quite effective and secure.

I also did the two white round vents the same way, the one under the shower and the one in the corner at the left of the vanity slide. The latter is pretty interesting to access -- not much room there.

Using the same technique, I did a similar thing to the rectangular register in the walk in closet...rear and front views:

:?: Has anyone ever taken the heater registers off under the kitchen cabinets? Mine seem to be grouted to the floor tile at the lower edge, and the screw heads are filled with grout also.

Any member here have any good ideas on what else to do? I am really bothered by the opening in the bed slide around the rack mechanism when it is open, as well as the two rams on the living slide. The vanity slide is well sealed both open and closed...

Do the Bounce dryer sheets really work in the basement to repel mice??

Chuck

 

[rescue7]

I found the holes under the bed where the wiring comes in was not caulked well. Also on the bed slide the rack should have a rubber flap to close up hole. Also put wire in the intake and exhaust vents on the furnace outside.

Don

 

[Chuck v]

Don,

Yes, I already plugged the holes at the two corners of the bed base where the wires run...

The rubber flap on the bed side slide drive mechanism that you mention -- is that a factory part that I am missing, or did you have to make that? Pictures??

Thanks,

Chuck

 

[hyall]

Same as the t40b the opening under the bed slide missing flap or they cut it too large of area. I would like to fill it in some how, now I pack it with rubber foam also noticed they cut the metal flange that holds the flap stripping in place

Don,

Yes, I already plugged the holes at the two corners of the bed base where the wires run...

The rubber flap on the bed side slide drive mechanism that you mention -- is that a factory part that I am missing, or did you have to make that? Pictures??

Thanks,

Chuck

 

[mfa]

The Rat Zapper is by far the best thing for mice that I have ever tried.

Where did you find the expanded metal screening?

 

[Chuck v]

MFA,

I got the expanded metal mesh at Lowe's but don't see it on-line. I think it was in the gutter topper section...came in both 4 inch and 6 inch widths in a small roll of about 15 feet.

Chuck

 

[Chuck v]

MFA,

I looked in the shop this morning and found the packaging on the expanded metal mesh. It is manufactured by Construction Metals Inc. and is called "Kwikmesh Utility Screen and was in a 4 inch by 25 foot roll.

The label says one of the 'recommended uses' is for rodent control... :!:

Chuck

 

[rescue7]

I have a picture of what I did on bed slide but cannot figure out how to get it in to message. Can someone explain how.

Do

 

[Chuck v]

Don,

I am very interested in seeing what you did to the slide to seal it off, so here goes on my limited help to getting your image posted. I am far from being expert at this as my earlier efforts in this thread will attest, but try this:

Use the IMG button at the top fo the message composition window (near the right side, just below the subject line window...) which will place the string "' in the message text. you can then then paste in the link to the image you wish to post. Follow that by selecting the [b]IMG* [/b]button that now appears in the same location, which will close the operation by placing the string "[img]" after the picture's url...

(Hopefully the command names will show in the final text and not be filtered out due to the commands being typed in-line with the text...) :wink:

You can always just post the link to the image, which will not show the picture directly but let members link to it elsewhere on the web, and if that does not work let me know and you can e-mail it to me in a private message.

Chuck

 

[Chuck v]

Thanks to Don Smart for sending me a picture of his modification to seal the bedroom slide mechanism using a rubber flap cut to a custom fit. He mentioned that he did not rely solely on the self adhesive on this rubber material and added some additional bonding material as well.

We did get out to the Oregon coast over the last weekend -- had a great time and excellent weather (light rain overnight but clear during the daytime...) We stayed at Pacific Shores Motor Coach Resort and had a space right on the bluff...the view out the windshield was the Yaquina Heat Lighthouse and the sunsets were very nice. Here are a couple of pictures, one from inside the coach and the other from the top of the club house. Our TM40C is on the left with the Toad parked next to it...

Having fresh crab with sourdough bread and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc while enjoying this view from the comfort of our coach is a fitting reward for all the preparation leading up to the outing...

Chuck

 

[David Bott]

Hi...

Would love also to see the image of the seal on the bed side of the coach. Please, please.


Nevermind...It now has shown up. It did not load when I can into the thread. After I made the above post, of course if showed up.

 

[David Bott]

Also...

Here is a link to our recent changes. I figured it would be quicker to post the direct link to the page vs re-posting each before and after photo.

http://www.outsideourbubble.com/coach-upgrades

More or less...Wood Valances, Removed the slide-out pantry and put in real shelves and double doors, took out the couch and added in a loveseat with recliners and added small 6" end cabinets to each side. We also removed and replaced honeycomb shades with MCD shades throughout the coach. LOVE THEM. Oh, and a simple thing, added wood surrounds to the florescent lights to dress them up.

 

[Chuck v]

David,

The interior upgrades look terrific! Our coach has a slightly different floor-plan, being a 40C with the single bath and the walk-in closet with stacked washer and dryer, but the desk area is very similar. That desk was a substantial influence in selecting this coach as I too was going to work from various out of state consulting assignments when we bought -- the economic down turn put the start-up I was associated with out of business.

I have not been able to justify taking out the full size couch with the hide-a-bed since we plan for the grandchildren to be included on some future outings, but we did remove the jack knife love seat on the curb side and replaced it with a recliner and a table.

We do not have the pantry that your model has, so I have been getting very creative in maximizing storage by adding pull out shelving under the sink, etc. Costco had some can dispensers that were configurable for various can heights (cans roll on their sides like a soft drink rack...) and the assembly just fit in the overhead cabinets, so that helped a bit. Also, did you know that the 'panel' over the microwave is covering a space that is almost 20 inches deep by 30 inches wide and nearly 7 inches tall? The opening is 5 inches high by 22 inches wide, so it would be ideal for light but bulky flat items like cookie sheets, broiler pans, microwave racks. etc.

I am in the process of recovering this storage for Sharon's kitchen use. I added hidden hinges to the top inner edge of the panel similar to those on the other cabinets, and put in a plywood floor to cover the microwave power cord. This floor is in three sections to allow it to fit through the opening and because I had a 24 x 24 piece of scrap 3/8 ply that I used. The furring strips that I attached to the center section allow the pieces to fit together and the outer edges rest on the furring already in the space.

Here is what you find when you take the panel off. Note that I have already blocked the wire cutouts at the rear of the cabinet from any unauthorized pest traffic...

Here is the same view with the "floor" added -- it can be lifted out if access is needed to service the microwave power cord... I have yet to decide if I need to make a false 'back' to the space to cover the remaining wiring you see attached to the rear of this "found" space, but most likely I will.

I will get some more shots of the finished project as soon as I decide what kind of handle to put on this swing up panel door. The ones used on the other doors would hit the puck light in the soffit just above this added door, so I have to work that out. I will also get some pictures of the pull-out shelving under the sink, the can rack, and the knife storage that have been added.

Chuck

 

[David Bott]

Great idea as it is just un-used space.

One thing I want to do is move the microwave back 2 1/4" to make it more flush with the cabinets. Not sure why it is not moved back to where it should be as their is like 8 inches behind it!