Help with new to me 2016 17RTH Track and Trail

[GrumpyJoe]

Hello,
We purchased a 2016 Gulf Stream Track & Trail 17RTH, used, without having it inspected at a dealer... (I know...I am an idiot.)

So our first adventure started off with a leaking fresh water tank, from a crack in the middle. Its still there, we just didn't get to use water for anything but the toilet that weekend.

The antenna flew off on the interstate, not sure where it ended up...

We are going to do a 2 week camp with the nephews and I wanted to test the city water hookup and check some electrical stuff.

Well here's the problem I need help with...

Using my home water, from a hose bib, I have a water pressure regulator that I set to 45 psi, then it goes into the camper.

Initially, it blew a ton of air as expected, and then water started doing the coughing routine until it started to smooth out. It coughed for almost 10min, and never got a solid stream from the sink or shower. I took the heads off both and tried again, this time it was solid from the sink for a minute and gradually went to nothing, then it just stopped.

Currently, still hooked to the camper, sitting at 45 psi, no water comes out period.

Question...
Is their a city water bypass hidden somewhere under a panel?
Does anyone have experience troubleshooting this sort of thing, think they can walk a broken old dude through fixing/finding the problem?

Appreciate any help you can offer,
Thanks in advance

-Joe

 

[GrumpyJoe]

Nothing? Was really hoping someone knew of a Service Manual or something. Don't want to have to do a dealer visit...

 

[Leisure Time Larry]

Hey Joe, I'm not sure that I fully understand what you've got going on, but I'll try. Typically, there are no "manual" for an RV that will tell you everything about the systems. RVs are kind of a Frankenstein mash-up of parts. You need to identify the parts, then look up the manual for them.

The water system usually has two inputs. One is a fresh water fill, to fill up the FW tank. The other is a "City Water" connection. It is plumbed into the RV's cold water line past the water pump. When charged, a check valve in the water pump keeps the water from filling the FW tank and forces the water onward to provide water to your faucets.

Your cracked FW tank is worrisome. They burst from 1) overfilling and atmospheric pressure build up, or 2) water freezing. If yours burst from freezing because someone previously did not properly winterize, then the question is, is there any other freezing damage? It seems like there might be if you are getting air in the system after ten minutes. A full plumbing inspection is in order to make sure nothing is leaking. Water damage is the ultimate RV killer. I would change out that FW tank immediately too. It's hard to camp without FW on board.

Could your City Water issue be the regulator? They do go bad. Do you know your home's water pressure? It should be in about the same range as what the RV can take. Plumbing is plumbing. The regulator may not be needed. Maybe test the water output of the spigot with and without the regulator unhooked from the RV. Could your spigot be the problem?

Finally, if you need professional help, yes an RV repair center is an option, but it's a plumbing issue, so you can also seek a help from a plumber. Good luck!

 

[GrumpyJoe]

Thank you for the reply.

Couple answers to your questions.

Yes, the water pressure from the spigot is 70 psi. Hence the regulator.

I made sure that water flows both with the regulator and without.

The crack actually looks like debris hit it on the highway, its in a high spot under the tank, where the "support strap" should be... I intend to just replace the tank.

Unfortunately the water lines are in hidden or ridiculously difficult to reach areas. I will try to get under there again and take a look after the pump. I didn't see an input that "could" lead to the sink, which was what was stumping me in my own troubleshooting.

I can't trace the water line from the City water input, to where it joins the FW setup.

There is no sound of water movement when the water is hooked up, which leads me to think there is an intermittent blockage... but where I have no clue.

I'll try and find what you were talking about though. Thanks for the help

 

[Leisure Time Larry]

Roger that. I'm not familiar with your particular model, so I can only try to bounce generalities. There could be an issue with the City Water connector itself and the check valve not letting any water into the RV.

So your FW tank is mounted externally? That would be better I guess so anything that leaks from it is outside. Mine is internally mounted, so you see that concern. If it's just a small little crack, I would probably try to patch it with an epoxy putty or Flex-Seal tape to see how that does. Replace if badly damaged.

The FW tank does hold some water then, yes? If so, put some in there and run the fresh water pump. If successful, then you know this issue is that City Water connection, i.e. that would probably be your blockage.

Another thought is to try to use compressed air to diagnose further. It is very helpful in finding leaks without flooding. The sound of the air can help troubleshoot. They sell the air to garden hose fitting at most hardware stores. The fitting can be used to blow out the system for winterizing too.

 

[GrumpyJoe]

thanks, I am going to swap the Inlet valve connection today if I can find a store that has one in stock.

Oddly enough the flex seal didnt work on the tank... it does however work well on pool hoses with a 2hp pump driving the filter. Crazy that a FW tank has enough pressure to leak past the tape. I'm just gonna replace it. Seen enough repair video failures to know its not worth my time.

Thanks again for the help,

J

 

[GrumpyJoe]

So just for completions sake....

I pulled that city water connection point. I then hooked it directly to the garden hose with no regulator. It took a minute and then pop... water shot out. I think the valve was just stuck from no use. Everything works like a champ now that I hooked it all back up.

I did find out I get to replace a shower valve unit... Ups and downs right..

Thanks all for the help

 

[THenne1713]

You can likely download a generic manual form the Gulfstreamcoachdotcom website, but not sure it will help much. If you understand RV systems, most is just looking around, exploring all inside/ out, inside doors, cabinets, pulling out drawers, removing panels and INSPECTING/ LEARNING. i DOWNLOADED several brands/ models, and then listed brand/ model ON ALL FURNISHINGS AND APPLIANCES, searched and downloaded most all owner, parts and service manual from the recliner.

 

[THenne1713]

ALSO A GREAT IDEA to practice Emergency Procedures while in driveway, gather emergency tools and check/ instruct all on EMERGENCY FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND EMERGENCY EXIT WINDOWS, and verify windows LATCH/ RELEASE AND HINGE OPERATE PROPERLY. Gaskets can get sticky, silicone spray can help immensely.

 

[Leisure Time Larry]

So just for completions sake....

I pulled that city water connection point. I then hooked it directly to the garden hose with no regulator. It took a minute and then pop... water shot out. I think the valve was just stuck from no use. Everything works like a champ now that I hooked it all back up.

I did find out I get to replace a shower valve unit... Ups and downs right..

Thanks all for the help

Thanks for coming back to give an update. Good luck with the shower valve and everything.

 

[tmbrwlvs]

Just a thought… Try using JBWeld (for plastic) on your FW tank crack. I’ve had good luck with it in the past.

 

[THenne1713]

Took me a few minutes, but assume you are saying city water port check valve was stuck closed... and now free?